TODAY'S GUN TIME

[the old grind]

Since my dad has kept the basement (where my guns are located at) at a higher indoor temp to keep his old bones warm (even when it's 80 degrees out today), I need to lather everything in mobile 1 after I clean them LOL

Birchwood Casey 'Barricade' (formerly Sheath) is tops for preserving metal in potentially damp storage. I keep guns in cases on the basement floor after a wipe down with it. Longest one has sat there (ruger Red Label O/U SG) is 15 years and dehumidifier is set to maintain 55% or less year-round. The 'oil' is for 'just in case', leaves no 'wet residue', denies fingerprints, and none of my machinist's tools gauges, or fixtures rust without anything to protect them.

btw, keeping humidity <50% will cause fleas to dessicate and die between jumping on hosts, not that anyone here has dogs. Also politics has never affected my collecting, shooting, or reloading other than hoarding ammo. (which I've always done 'just in case'.)

 

[Sigarms]

Birchwood Casey 'Barricade' (formerly Sheath) is tops for preserving metal in potentially damp storage. I keep guns in cases on the basement floor after a wipe down with it. Longest one has sat there (ruger Red Label O/U SG) is 15 years and dehumidifier is set to maintain 55% or less year-round. The 'oil' is for 'just in case', leaves no 'wet residue', denies fingerprints, and none of my machinist's tools gauges, or fixtures rust without anything to protect them.

btw, keeping humidity <50% will cause fleas to dessicate and die between jumping on hosts, not that anyone here has dogs.

I need to look it up.

With a whole house dehumidifer working the basement, years ago it never got over 45% RH. That said, with forced air and in the basment below grade (walk out basement), I need to check the RH again because the temp is running so hot with that air (has to be throwing more moisture down there).

The reality is I use to clean my guns like clockwork after shooting. Since being able to shoot out back, I've gotten lazy about it as I'd let of 10-50 rounds, and put the gun back into the safe because it didn't become a "ritual" when I use to have to drive and shoot.

 

[the old grind]

I like to shoot five rounds or more every time I get a gun out. Any less than that I might not spend the usual hour cleaning and lubing accordingly. but 'that's just me.'

 

[Sigarms]

I like to shoot five rounds or more every time I get a gun out. Any less than that I might not spend the usual hour cleaning and lubing accordingly. but 'that's just me.'

I got spoiled. I put over 2k without every cleaning on my one rifle as an experiment. No problems whatsoever.

Kind of reminds me of what what Mr. McMillian said about manufacturers recommendations on breaking in (cleaning) gun barrels.

 

[5030]

I don't own anything under .45 other than m y 2 Ruger / Volquartsen match target semi auto's but they are for 50 foot indoor match. I consider .380 and 9's as lady guns or limp wrist firearms. Even my derringer is a 45LC. I prefer shooting a 44 or 500 Smith or my 45 Kimber. They all recoil and I like recoil.

 

[the old grind]

I use the Hawkeye borescope (or Lyman or Teslong, lol) for every cleaning (15 yrs). Also, I haven't use a metal bore brush in years when I can easily see what nylon brushes or tight patches can do with the right routine and solvents. Not all bores are easily 'rodded' from the breech. (semi-autos, some levers). Insert rod from muzzle (coated or carbon fiber), thread on brush or patch, pull, repeat, ugh. HGs are always easy to scope and/or clean if you shoot them regularly. No exceptions.

I typically start with No 9 to get powder/residue out and follow with CR-10, Montana Extreme, etc for copper. Bright smears/streaks of copper are bad, a shadow of it is not. (Ask a competitor why there's a 'fouling shot' after a cleaning) Bolt gun and ML bores with removeable breech plugs are the easiest long guns to inspect from both ends as are all MSRs. (Breech, throat, gas port, crown, etc) One thing I like about cleaning from the breech is using a bore guide. Prefer Dewey and Gunslick rods, nylon patch jags with copper solvents. (you know why)

btw, I like to rotate 'waxed' ammo in my .22 LRs to season the bore for same like an iron skillet, but much .22 Mag and all .17 HMR ammo I've seen/gathered is jacketed. Seems only the Hawkeye will fit in a bore <.20 cal & that's only w/o the right angle mirror. Doesn't need that to show copper in a .17 barrel so we're ok, but we gotta look to be sure. My guess is that every 100 rds isn't too often to at least scope.

Oh, and I usually put a gun away with a damp patch of No 9. When getting something out to shoot I run another, then a dry patch. .... Then there's that fouling shot if I'm going for groups.

 

[sandman2234]

Sigarms, I have always been a "longer barrel" handgun person, too!
David from jax

 

[5030]

I use the Hawkeye borescope (or Lyman or Teslong, lol) for every cleaning (15 yrs). Also, I haven't use a metal bore brush in years when I can easily see what nylon brushes or tight patches can do with the right routine and solvents. Not all bores are easily 'rodded' from the breech. (semi-autos, some levers). Insert rod from muzzle (coated or carbon fiber), thread on brush or patch, pull, repeat, ugh. HGs are always easy to scope and/or clean if you shoot them regularly. No exceptions.

I typically start with No 9 to get powder/residue out and follow with CR-10, Montana Extreme, etc for copper. Bright smears/streaks of copper are bad, a shadow of it is not. (Ask a competitor why there's a 'fouling shot' after a cleaning) Bolt gun and ML bores with removeable breech plugs are the easiest long guns to inspect from both ends as are all MSRs. (Breech, throat, gas port, crown, etc) One thing I like about cleaning from the breech is using a bore guide. Prefer Dewey and Gunslick rods, nylon patch jags with copper solvents. (you know why)

btw, I like to rotate 'waxed' ammo in my .22 LRs to season the bore for same like an iron skillet, but much .22 Mag and all .17 HMR ammo I've seen/gathered is jacketed. Seems only the Hawkeye will fit in a bore <.20 cal & that's only w/o the right angle mirror. Doesn't need that to show copper in a .17 barrel so we're ok, but we gotta look to be sure. My guess is that every 100 rds isn't too often to at least scope.

I take my Gradient Lens along when I peruse used firearms. Amazing how you can negotiate a better price with it.....lol

All I use is BTE now. Nothing else. BTE followed by the Hawkeye followed by a light patch of No. 9 gun oil. Only CF cleaning rods and only nylon brushes and patch pullers.

Lots of people blame inaccuracy on a multitude of things when in reality it all comes down to a filthy, fouled bore. Seen some nasty actions too, but it's usually the tube that is terrible. Outta sight, outta mind I guess. Not with me.

They ALL get fouled, some quicker than others but they all do and to think they don't is kidding yourself.

hardest to clean is my .17. Had to machine a patch puller for that one and I can only use 1/4 of a patch at a time.

Far as breaking in any barrel, I follow the barrel manufacturers recommended break in. I usually rebarrel with Bartlien's and I follow their break in to the letter. My long guns especially are very expensive full custom builds so I don't take any chances with them.

Even my handguns get a barrel break in, just not as intense as the long guns.

Won't even get into handloading for accuracy except to say that all my rifle dies are custom machined by John Whidden and they are all bushing dies and I machine all my own bushings from oil hard drill rod. Test stands and dial indicators are my friends too.

Finally, I only load Bergers and never pay attention to any published data either. Brian Litz and I are pretty good friends and I load using Brian's loading regimen.

I'll leave it at that. Enough to digest I'd say.

 

[the old grind]

No such thing as TMI from a guy who IMO really knows his s__.

I cut 1 3/4" patches (Butch's Triple Twill) into 16ths just to push 'em through a .17 cal bore with a pointed-tip jag. Yes they go through several times vs back & forth or just once. Hawkeye is also great for inspecting flash holes for burrs, also sans 90 deg mirror.

Barrel break-in varies from maker to maker, but they know from experience/feed back what works for their stuff. (cut or button rifled, lapped, etc)

Back to barrel inspecting at shops or gun shows .. IMO any (portable) borescope will pay for itself by the time one has spent as much buying guns. That said, as I gathered many Mauser 98s from pawn shops I learned that rough bores can shoot well if you can clean the high spots vs struggle to see a patch coming out with no 'green'. My SMLE No IV Mk 1 is another to bear this out. Most of them were poor shooters from bad 'sporter' stock fit/inletting, and/or action screw tension.

Some of us can get any gun to group well but don't brag to all who might not appreciate the details. Apologies that I'm also one who relishes them to the nth degree.

 

[Sigarms]

I don't own anything under .45 other than m y 2 Ruger / Volquartsen match target semi auto's but they are for 50 foot indoor match. I consider .380 and 9's as lady guns or limp wrist firearms. Even my derringer is a 45LC. I prefer shooting a 44 or 500 Smith or my 45 Kimber. They all recoil and I like recoil.

You Sir are a true man. Can't help but be in awe...