Water-stove vs. Heat pump vs. Propane

[Jchonline]

Insulating and properly tightening up the house envelope from air intrusion/escape is the most important thing you can do no matter which heating option you choose.

If you can control it, positioning the home so that South facing windows get sun in the Winter but not the Summer (say with an eave) is ideal to improve solar gain when its cold but reduce it when its hot.

We have 3 options. Wood stove is primary, in floor radiant (propane hot water heater) is secondary and used in areas where wood stove doesn’t reach (room over garage), and we have mini splits that can be run if necessary. Expensive yes but we live at 8600ft and can’t be without heat…ever. We are also off grid. The mini-splits only run on a Sunny day when our solar panels are churning out excess energy (which is pretty much every Sunny day)…its free energy.

So the way it usually goes is Wood stove when we wake up, Minisplit heat from 11-4, then back to wood stove. That way during he day we don’t have to worry about keeping the fire going…although it burns most of the day anyway. We really only use radiant as a backup.

 

[Sigarms]

What makes the most sense when planning a new house?
I want a primary and a backup system for heating.
I will definitely have a generac in place as well.

The bigger question is if you run a hydronic heat (boiler) are you planning ductwork for cooling if needed?

If no ductwork is wanted, mini splits for AC only.

If you want AC and heat with ductwork (not being hydronic AKA boiler for heat), the best route is a dual fuel system IMO. Heat pump with gas furnace "back up". Assuming you're on LP like myself, the advantage with a dual fuel heat pump system is you can run the heat pump down to whatever the outdoor temp is, and then kick on the gas furnace for "better heat".

End of the day, boiler is the best route for heating IMO, but you also have the AC to consider.

 

[Sigarms]

Also a heat pump doesn’t work well in cold temperatures and relies on electric resistance heat to make up the difference.

Newer single stage PSC blower heat pump systems have never worked better now for lower outdoor temps.

Again, it comes down to if you want ductwork or not IMO.

A good ductwork job can cost more than the equipment to heat and cool installed.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

We went all electric in 1991 using well water based heat pumps but the 5% nickel exchanges failed in 15 years.

In KY it's getting hard to find carriers that will underwrite wood heating and we know propane fuel options costs are not stable. I am following the Tesla home heat pump development. Next time wiil be air to air for the reasons others have posted. Electric is the only long term viable option that I see.

 

[RustyA]

Propane forced air here with 18 SEER heat pump for fall and spring in Northern Wisconsin. High efficiency wood stove in main living area for supplement/backup heat. Heat pump is high enough SEER to qualify for dual fuel rate of .069 per kwh which equates to .99/gal propane down to 30 degrees. Works good and we get AC in summer at the dual fuel rate also.

 

[Sigarms]

Propane forced air here with 18 SEER heat pump for fall and spring in Northern Wisconsin. High efficiency wood stove in main living area for supplement/backup heat. Heat pump is high enough SEER to qualify for dual fuel rate of .069 per kwh which equates to .99/gal propane down to 30 degrees. Works good and we get AC in summer at the dual fuel rate also.

Could you explain that?

Generally energy companies and LP companies run different rebates. Now, dual fuel with 95% AFUE on the furnace or higher, the LP company will give you something back. SEER, EER and HSPF is genearlly required by the electric company.

I've never seen a KW % rate converterted to a LP dollar amount, may I ask what formula your using and where did you get it from?

Something to think about... put in a 2 stage 18 SEER heat pump system in 25 year old ductwork system running at a .75 static pressure, you're lucky if you're actually getting 15 SEER.

 

[RustyA]

Electric coop estimated the efficiency of heat pump at 30 degrees ambient air temp at the current dual fuel rate to arrive at propane equivalent. Our heat pump will create heat down to 0 degrees but becomes much less efficient than propane below 25 degrees as it has to work harder to extract heat. Home is 21 years old, we sealed and taped all ductwork we had access to. Furnace is 95% two stage propane with ECM motor.

 

[Sigarms]

Electric coop estimated the efficiency of heat pump at 30 degrees ambient air temp at the current dual fuel rate to arrive at propane equivalent.

I've dealt with my own electric co op on asking them questions on how they determine things per HVAC. Hopefully your co op is smarter than my co op when it comes to how they figure out HVAC related information other than what's given to them.

COP is more important than SEER rating when it comes to heating.

I'd just love to know formula how your co op came up with that info. SEER rating has very little to do with the variable they would consider IMO.

 

[RustyA]

The SEER rating made the heat pump qualify for their reduced rate program along with the ECM blower, not sure how they computed the math to arrive at the equivalent energy use of propane. Installer confirmed their estimate of propane equivalent so after two professionals told me the same thing I went with their advice. We love the system, house is always comfortable, no cold spots as ECM runs on low speed longer during cycles. Saved about 200 gallons of propane first year and got AC electric at 42% less per kwh rate. I'm very happy and was trying to share my experience I had.

 

[newbury]

This is SO location dependent.
If the OP could say WHERE and his cost of electricity it would make it so much easier to advise.
For example my house in Mississippi requires little heat and electricity is $0.098/kWh.