Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade"

[ovrszd]

Finally decided to build a Tilt Link. I bought my goods thru Surplus Center and one item at the local tractor supply store. Here's the list from Surplus Center.

Item # 9-7261-8 3x8x1.5 DA Hyd Cyl Swivel Eyes
Item # 9-5460-8-6 (2) 1/2 NPT to 3/8 NPT Bushings
Item # 9-6901-8-8 (2) SAE 8M x 3/8 NPTF 90 Swivel
Item # 928-AA (2) 1/2" NPT Coupler Male Tip S71-4
Item # 918-3236 3/8 x 36" 3/8 NPTM x 3/8 MPTM 4000 PSI Hyd Hose
Item # 918-3224 3/8 x 24" 3/8 NPTM x 3/8 NPTM 4000 PSI Hyd Hose

Total Surplus Center cost with 3 day shipping was $253.75. Cost of the CAT I link was $8.50. Parts total cost was $262.25.

Then went to Tractor Supply store and bought a Weld-On replacement end for CAT I 3pt lower link. This is used because the tractor pin size where the link fastens to the lift arm at the top is 7/8". Also I needed a little extra length from the pin location to the barrel of the cylinder so it wouldn't bind when fully lifted.

First thing I did was cut off the Swivel Eyes on both ends. Yeah,,,,, kinda silly. I could have saved $10 by buying a clevis ended cylinder and cut them off instead, but done deal now.

Welded the boughten CAT I link end to the barrel of the cylinder. Then built a lower end to match the capabilities of the factory Kubota end. Kubota designs their end to be pinned in a float position which allows 3" of vertical travel. I like that feature when using a 3pt Brush Cutter. Lets one side of the cutter ride over humps without having to lift the entire cutter.

I also moved the adjustable factory link to the left side and removed the fixed factory link. Now I have considerably more vertical adjustment and can vary the amount of lift or lower capability of the hydraulic link.

Here's a couple pics of the factory fixed link beside my homemade link for comparison.

Here's a couple pics of the installed link and the use of the rectangular headed pin that holds it to the tractor. By removing the clip at the end of the pin, and removing the recangular washer on the inside, then turn the pin and washer 1/4 turn in either direction and reinserting you get the float effect I talked about earlier.

Here's three pics of the final result.

I had earlier built a hydraulic top link in a similar fashion. Used my new hydraulic top/tilt system pretty hard over the last week. Can't imagine life without it. Total cost of materials for top and tilt links was $520.70. Cheapest gain of productivity I've ever had. :thumbsup:

 

[TripleR]

Great job as always.:thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

Great job as always.:thumbsup:

Thanks Larry!!!

 

[M E Race]

Your grandaddy wasn't named DaVinci was he? That sir is a strke of genuis.

 

[mfreund]

Fantastic Job!! I love it when people do what works for them instead of throwing money at it. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Rustyiron]

Another fine project! Did you purposly (why) build more tilt in the right/down direction, or this just the photo?

 

[ovrszd]

Another fine project! Did you purposly (why) build more tilt in the right/down direction, or this just the photo?

Good question Rusty. I moved my adjustable factory link to the left side and discarded the fixed link so I would have more height variance. In the photos I just happened to have the adjustable link set at a length that created that effect. If I lengthen the left side a little more I would get equal changes with the cylinder. If I lengthen it more I'd have more lift and less droop with the cylinder. If I shorten the left link completely I barely have any lift with the cylinder but have a LOT of droop. When I use my brush cutter I want the links shortened as much as possible and still have a level cutter. This gives me more lift to get over obstacles or cross ditches in the timber. When doing dirt work I want more lift capability with the cylinder so will use the left side extended to achieve that. Good catch. I should have explained that further in the beginning. :thumbsup:

Yesterday I spent a couple hours designing a level indicator, similar to what's on a loader bucket. Now I'm trying to figure out how to make it adaptable as I change the left side link length. That's got me stumped. I'll post some pics and am open for suggestions. What I'd like to end up with is a quick way to return to level if using the brush cutter and accidently or purposely change the hydraulic link length.

 

[ovrszd]

I went out and shot some pics of the level indicator I'm working on.

It's built from 1/4" rod with a 5/16" nut welded on the bottom end. Then I used a short piece of 1/4" rod, drilled a small hole thru one end for a cotter pin, and welded it to the bottom bracket of my hydraulic tilt link. On the barrel of the cylinder I welded another 5/16" nut for the rod to slide thru. So when the rod is inserted thru the welded nut and pinned to the bottom pin it moves with the opening and closing of the cylinder. Now I'm stumped by trying to figure out some sort of indication of when my 3pt is level. Because I have a changeable length left link, level will always be different. I'm considering elevation marks on the rod indicator for different lengths but am afraid that'll be too confusing. So I'm kinda at a standstill. I'm open for any and all suggestions. Understand, my goal is some way to know 3pt level regardless of length setting of the left link.......

Sorry for the crappy pics, I was too lazy to move the tractor to better light.

First two are from different angles with the hydraulic cylinder extended. The indicator rod is Kubota orange.






Next two are with the hydraulic cylinder closed.

 

[Leejohn]

I would think that would be hard to see, wouldn't it be easier just to look at the 3pt? You could use some control cables and put a slide gauge on the dash and be able to see it real easy.

 

[Kodthree]

How about some kind of water level, or maybe something used to level an RV, 5th wheel, or travel trailer? I'm thinking about the little stick-on arc-shaped levels here. I've seen these either bubble in oil, and ball bearing in a tube.
I've also seen boom-mounted level indicators on cranes... You'd have to figure out a mount across your lower link arms that stayed with the tractor, or maybe a magnetized version you could move from implement to implement.