X540 Nightmare, Help!!

[sd455dan]

That is what I posted and then removed because of the earlier statement that Hot wiring the clutch connector did engage the clutch-
This is key because it is not clear to me whether the connector was still connected or was removed and +12vdc AND Ground was applied.

If the connector was removed when the clutch was (hot wired) and both ground and power were both connected to battery + and -
And the linked diagram is in fact correct...

I would suspect a failed ground circuit from the clutch connector to the referenced schematic nodal ground point.


edit: Need more information from OP on exactly how the hot wiring clutch test was done.

 

[daisyman]

That is what I posted and then removed because of the earlier statement that Hot wiring the clutch connector did engage the clutch-
This is key because it is not clear to me whether the connector was still connected or was removed and +12vdc AND Ground was applied.

If the connector was removed when the clutch was (hot wired) and both ground and power were both connected to battery + and -
And the linked diagram is in fact correct...

I would suspect a failed ground circuit from the clutch connector to the referenced schematic nodal ground point.


edit: Need more information from OP on exactly how the hot wiring clutch test was done.

Sorry guys for the confusion. At the beginning I put a jump wire from the battery to the clutch lead and the other lead to ground just to make sure the clutch was working, which it did, with the tractor running. Deck ran as normal.
Then I tested with a digital meter what I thought was the hot wire to the clutch through the fuses and main connector toward the dash. I had conductivity all the way. Without a wiring diagram, I wasn't sure just where it went. The wire loom is one big bundle.
This tractor has a diode in, what I see now from the wiring diagram for the X300, the ground wire side. That diode was open and I replaced it. I'm not sure what it does but I'm guessing it has something to do with the RIO.
I went on from there with me checking every switch with a meter and then rechecking them under load. All passed.
The new electronic module didn't do it either. NADA
I agree with you on the ground part, but all of them look fine. The battery ground bolts right to the engine base, and the controls ground wire bolts right on top of it.
I've pulled all the connectors apart, cleaned them with electrical spray, blew them out, checked them for continuity, and put them back together. They all look good.

I got to thinking when doing all this is, maybe I missed something......where is the switch that activates when you back up? I've looked everywhere under that thing and don't see it. There's got to be one don't there? Right?

Thanks for all your help,
Irv

 

[daisyman]

post removed- after seeing ops post that applying + 12vdc does engage clutch??.

Concerning test light coming on, on both sides of clutch connection -Did you possibly connect the test light clip to the battery + voltage?
This would give the lights test probe access to ground through the clutches coil winding on either connection, assuming no voltage supplied by relay-
(Using the linked schematic that was posted earlier as a reference).
it seems there may be a different schematic that is an exact match for this machine.?.?

I pulled the connector apart at the clutch and put a probe type test light on each lead with the ignition switch and the PTO switch both on and the motor not running. It lit up on both of them with the probe hooked to ground.
Then I took my digital meter and did the same....no voltage at all on either terminal. I don't understand that.
And yes, a diagram of the correct machine would be nice!
Irv

 

[Zebrafive]

These two drawings are from jdparts key 12 in one and key 15 in the other are the reverse switch

 

[ruffdog]

If it is like the x7** tractors, the deck won't turn on if it thinks you are backing up. Once the deck is running, if you back up, the deck shuts off unless you pull up on the deck engagement handle. You can bypass this feature with a jumper behind the dash with one wire (to test of course).

 

[daisyman]

If it is like the x7** tractors, the deck won't turn on if it thinks you are backing up. Once the deck is running, if you back up, the deck shuts off unless you pull up on the deck engagement handle. You can bypass this feature with a jumper behind the dash with one wire (to test of course).

"Once the deck is running".....That's the problem, I can't get the deck to run in the first place. I'm familiar with the RIO and did jumper the switch. Still no go! Too tired to think straight!!

I'll have to save it for another day.....or NOT. Ha!!

 

[jd110]

Another thing you have to check is the park brake switch. When park brake is applied, the pto will not engage. If switch is failed in the engaged position, it will not allow the pto to run.

 

[daisyman]

Yes, as I said in my 2nd post, I tried all those switches under load and they all passed. I DID find one more larger wire connector back in behind the frame that I hadn't seen before. A real bearcat to get to. It looks fine from what little I can see of it, but I will look at it tomorrow.
Thanks
Irv

 

[sd455dan]

I pulled the connector apart at the clutch and put a probe type test light on each lead with the ignition switch and the PTO switch both on and the motor not running. It lit up on both of them with the probe hooked to ground.
Then I took my digital meter and did the same....no voltage at all on either terminal. I don't understand that.
And yes, a diagram of the correct machine would be nice!
Irv

The B lead in the connector should be chassis ground... period. a point previous to X5 may be an open connection

assuming the diagram posted and linked is correct....


the A lead in the connector should be battery + voltage and since the diode is reversed biased should not reduce or affect the DC + available at that terminal.

that said I would back probe B terminal with a jumper to battery ( - negative terminal ) while everything is hooked up and PTO set to on with all conditions normally met for a functioning running PTO and see whether the PTO Clutch locks up and spins the PTO

I still have doubts since the same X5 is also the ground for the starter relay...

You may also want to check the outgoing Voltage and fuse itself
7.5 amp fuse 502b (blue wire) incoming to fuse and see if the test light comes on when trying to start PTO test light alligator clip to good ground.


ps. after all of the suggested help if that that fuse is just bad :confused2::laughing:

 

[Spanner]

I pulled the connector apart at the clutch and put a probe type test light on each lead with the ignition switch and the PTO switch both on and the motor not running. It lit up on both of them with the probe hooked to ground.
Then I took my digital meter and did the same....no voltage at all on either terminal. I don't understand that.
And yes, a diagram of the correct machine would be nice!
Irv

Not to be rude - but this post implies there is something wrong with your technique. You should have got the same result with either method and should not move forward until you have rectified this anomaly.