John Deere 4310 Up-Date

   / John Deere 4310 Up-Date #1  

BonBon1981

New member
Joined
Jul 2, 2018
Messages
20
Location
So. California
Tractor
John Deere 4310 Power Reverser Model
Thank You all for your input so far.
It's been much appreciated, Sorry it's been so long since my last post. BUT... my husbands hip popped out the socket, Then he had revision surgery on
July 25th. He is feeling much better now.

First Off, I cannot believe how much we have learned so far. We have replaced,

Ordered & Replaced
- Starter
- Solenoid
- Bad PTO switch
- All Fuses, Diodes, & Relays
- fuel shut off solenoid
- Batter load tested
- Replaced the fault light code bulb
(Bought a pack of 10 for $10)

We also replaced the suction tube elbow (pg. 280 of technical manual)
TM 1985 Dec. 2002


What I think we should concentrate on is the fault Light, Which would tell us exactly what is wrong.
Our tractor is the e power reverser model.
BUT the fault code light does not come on at all. According to the manual it should come on automatically, when you turn the key; but unfortunately it does not.
As opposed to the E Hydro, is a little different. OR We could look at something else.
The tractor starts fine, & after 10 seconds it shuts itself off. The bucket & the Rear of the tractor move up & down fine, while It is running.
BUT during the 10 seconds of the engine running it will not move forward, backward or anything.
We tested the break switch & the clutch switches, They were fine.
Also, the transmission is the 4 speed A,B, & C. Which I think they call it a 12 speed (it would be A,B,C & neutral & 4 speeds).

I think fixing the fault light would be a good idea. We aren稚 sure why it does not work. Secondly, could it be when I changed the suction tube hose?

Thank You all so much,
Bonnie & Simon
 
   / John Deere 4310 Up-Date #2  
Have you changed the fuel filter? key 13 in the drawing
Have you made sure the fuel shut off valve is ON? key 9 in the drawing
Maybe bad fuel pump? Key 5

Transmission:

Have you checked oil level?

How many hours? When was hydraulic oil last changed?
When was filter replaced?
When was internal screen cleaned? Key 9
Has Park brake been released?


Where in the manual does it state the light should come on automatically For operators manual, a page title or section please

What is P/N for the suction tube hose you replaced? Why did you replace it?


Has seat switch been tested? Replaced?
 

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   / John Deere 4310 Up-Date
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Hello ZebraFive,

thank you for all of your suggestions. It is really appreciated.
1) Have you changed the fuel filter?
YES

2) Have you made sure the fuel shut off valve is ON?
YES
3) Maybe Bad fuel Pump?
I am not sure if we can test the fuel pump. This is because it shuts off after 10 seconds.

TRANSMISSION
1) Have you checked oil Level?
YES.

2) How Many Hours?
2,500 Hours
3) When was the Hydraulic fluid last changed?
We do not know.
4) When was filter replaced?
We do not know.
5) When was internal screen cleaned?
I do not know when internal screen was cleaned.
6) Has parking Break been released?
YES

7) Where in the manual does it state the light should come on automatically. For Operators manual, a page title or section please.
My husband thought it was on page 146, Power reverser, but on page 312--- E. Hydro #8-12, looked like the fuse needed to be moved.

8) What is the P/N for the suction tube hose you replaced? why did you replace it?
Suction Tube manifold- oil supply. Page 531. the tube was cracked & old. We could not get past to replace the starter. So we thought it was best to replace it.

9) Has the seat switch been tested? Replaced?
Yes it has been tested & it is working.

My husband & I bought the tractor from a mahindra tractor dealer. The tractor has been brought in used. It ran for about an Hour, then for some reason it stopped running.
My husband hot wired the battery, but it did not kick over. We figured the starter was worn & had a dead spot. At the same time we replaced the ignition switch; just to be safe.
As my husband took the sides off & pulled back the instrument panel, we noticed underneath every crevice was filled with dirt & debris.
When my husband removed the PTO switch it was bad, so we replaced the PTO switch.
Underneath the cover, was hidden a MID PTO switch, filled with Debris & dirt.

Below I have attached photos. My husband labeled the photos.

Thanks,
Bonnie
 

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   / John Deere 4310 Up-Date #4  
From some of your answers, I assume you have the TM (Tech Manual). Such as page numbers (too high for an OM Owners manual) and wire numbers.

Nothing for eHydro will apply. Moving a fuse for eHydro is most likely to calibrate the transmission. So I am not sure if the fault light should come on when key is turned on or not. But I would concentrate on getting the engine running, then worry about getting it to move.


Since I do not have the TM for this tractor, it's hard for me to help. But I am guessing the tractor stops running due to lack of fuel. I would start with the fuel shut off solenoid. Put a volt meter on it and see if it loses voltage when the tractor quits.


My guess is the jumper wire in the first picture is for the seat switch. Do the wire numbers you listed help tell what circuit this is? I am not a fan of the connectors used this jumper. They cut the insulation and the wires can corrode and cause problems.


You need to study the circuits for the fuel shut off solenoid. What keeps it energized? Relay? Key switch? seat switch? If the fuel shut off is NOT the cause of shutsown after 10 seconds, I would check the fuel pump. See if the TM gives a procedure to test it.


I would also try and determine what the wire near the clutch pedal is for. Red 562c
 
   / John Deere 4310 Up-Date #5  
the fuel shutoff solenoid on my 4300 has a pull in and a hold in, my guess is your 4310 has the same. It could be that the pull in is working and the hold in is not strong enough to hold the shutoff in the run position after the pull in shuts off. Not sure just how long the pull in stays energized
 
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   / John Deere 4310 Up-Date #6  
the fuel shutoff solenoid on my 4300 has a pull in and a hold in, my guess is your 4310 has the same. It could be that the pull in is working and the hold in is not strong enough to hold the shutoff in the run position after the pull in shuts off. Not sure just how long the pull in stays energized

Typically the pull-in coil is active for only a second or two. It's a very high current coil and will rapidly overheat if left on for very long. If Bonbon has the manual, the pull-in current and time information should be in there.


Richard
 
   / John Deere 4310 Up-Date #7  
First post says the fuel shutoff solenoid was replaced. Plus all relays too. Is there a circuit board that controls it? Or maybe they got a bad one?
 
   / John Deere 4310 Up-Date #8  
For the 4310 shutting down after 10 seconds of running it almost sounds like air is trapped in the lines. Does it just completely shut down or slowly sputter out and die? You changed the fuel filter hopefully you filled the filter bowl back up before opening the line again and trying to start it otherwise there is air in the lines. As soon as you start it have you tried putting it at full throttle? These engines are supposed to be self priming but if theres a enough air still in the lines it will cause issues keeping it running. Hopefully its something this simple.

As for the tractor not moving there's a couple things that might be worth investigating. One is the potentiometer. It's a little doughnut shaped sensor that is right by the clutch linkage. I believe it's only a two wire connector. It's pretty close to where the starter is located. Make sure the contacts are good and clean and blow out any debris in or around the sensor. Not sure what that part does but I know from previous posts and owning a 4310 myself that it is a finicky sensor on these machines. The other sensor is the neutral safety sensor which is a sensor on the L. side on the very top of the transmission that you can barely see. I just ran a jumper wire between the two and bypassed.

Tough to diagnose without the light to blink you a code but it can be done. I would recommend getting a test light that can pierce the insulation of the wire and ensure you have power coming in and out of the sensors.
 
 
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