Work Light Schematic/L3400

[emmy71]

I found an electronics workbench program I used in college and decided to put together a work light schematic. Everything worked fine under simulation and the circuit draws around 12 amps with all lights on. I don't do a lot with 12 volt systems so if anyone sees anything wrong let me know.

I do have a couple of questions for those of you who have installed worklights. I was thinking about doing one trap (trapezoid) and one spot up front. Is one trap enough or do I need two? Would a spot light even be useful? I was leaning toward the two traps up front and just having a plug in spot light on hand. I do have a canopy now so the trap lights would be on the front of the canopy and the flood light would be on the rear of the canopy.

Also, I seem to remember seeing somewhere that the L3400 had a 40 amp alternator. I could not find that information in the manual but from the size that looks about right. Does anyone know if this is correct?

I know the L3400 has a worklight circuit under the fender but I wanted more capacity and the switches on the instrument panel.

Thanks,
Terry

 

[emmy71]

Everyone, I apologize. I should have searched a little better. I just found a post with the information for the alternator. I would still like some opinions about my other question for the front light configuration. I also found another good schematic in another post:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/108379-worklights-4510-a-3.html

Terry

 

[cityfarma]

The first problem I see is that you have an isolating switch in the wrong place. Instead of immediately before the lights, it should be in series with the relay. This means that you have only one switch (relay) between the battery and load. This reduces problems with current burning contacts. The switch to the relay then only has to carry the low relay coil current and is a lot cheaper.

The existing circuit also means the relay coil is energised whenever the ignition is on so the switch is the actual switching element instead of the relay.

Cityfarma

 

[canoetrpr]

Terry:

Regardless how you decide to finally get this done, please post details of your project.

I will likely be taking on the project of adding sunshade and lights to my tractor as well (if I get to that before I trade it in LOL!).

BTW. What sunshade did you get?

 

[emmy71]

The first problem I see is that you have an isolating switch in the wrong place. Instead of immediately before the lights, it should be in series with the relay. This means that you have only one switch (relay) between the battery and load. This reduces problems with current burning contacts. The switch to the relay then only has to carry the low relay coil current and is a lot cheaper.

The existing circuit also means the relay coil is energised whenever the ignition is on so the switch is the actual switching element instead of the relay.

Cityfarma

You are absolutely right about the switches being in series with the relay coils. The relays were an afterthought because I could see a certain six year old turning on the lights and me not knowing about it. The only rocker switches I could find locally were rated at 30 amps at 12 volts so I decided to leave them where they are. I will make some adjustments to the drawing tomorrow. Thanks for the input.

Terry

 

[emmy71]

Terry:

Regardless how you decide to finally get this done, please post details of your project.

I will likely be taking on the project of adding sunshade and lights to my tractor as well (if I get to that before I trade it in LOL!).

BTW. What sunshade did you get?

I really hope to get to it over Thanksgiving week. I ordered the sunshade through my Kubota dealer from:

Custom Tractor Canopy For Any Tractor Model - The Smart Farmer, LLC.

It is very well made and I am happy with it.

Terry

 

[clenhart]

I found an electronics workbench program I used in college and decided to put together a work light schematic. Everything worked fine under simulation and the circuit draws around 12 amps with all lights on. I don't do a lot with 12 volt systems so if anyone sees anything wrong let me know.

I do have a couple of questions for those of you who have installed worklights. I was thinking about doing one trap (trapezoid) and one spot up front. Is one trap enough or do I need two? Would a spot light even be useful? I was leaning toward the two traps up front and just having a plug in spot light on hand. I do have a canopy now so the trap lights would be on the front of the canopy and the flood light would be on the rear of the canopy.

Also, I seem to remember seeing somewhere that the L3400 had a 40 amp alternator. I could not find that information in the manual but from the size that looks about right. Does anyone know if this is correct?

I know the L3400 has a worklight circuit under the fender but I wanted more capacity and the switches on the instrument panel.

Thanks,
Terry

I have 2 trapezoid lights mounted on the front of my canopy and have thme adjusted so that they "fill in" directly in front of and to both sides of the headlight pattern. In my opinion a spotlight is not needed as I am more interested in better illuminating the immediate work area as opposed to extending the range of the headlights as you might desire to do in a high speed vehicle. I also have 2 flood lights on the rear of the canopy for the same reason. You may be able to get by with a single on the rear, but I really like my setup and have used it for box blading and bushhogging at night with no visibility issues.

If you are going to use the wiring diagram in the post that you linked to in your message, make sure you use the second diagram as posted by member bjcsc in order to make the best use of the relay's functionality.

 

[emmy71]

I have 2 trapezoid lights mounted on the front of my canopy and have thme adjusted so that they "fill in" directly in front of and to both sides of the headlight pattern. In my opinion a spotlight is not needed as I am more interested in better illuminating the immediate work area as opposed to extending the range of the headlights as you might desire to do in a high speed vehicle. I also have 2 flood lights on the rear of the canopy for the same reason. You may be able to get by with a single on the rear, but I really like my setup and have used it for box blading and bushhogging at night with no visibility issues.

If you are going to use the wiring diagram in the post that you linked to in your message, make sure you use the second diagram as posted by member bjcsc in order to make the best use of the relay's functionality.

That is exactly the information I was looking for on the lights. I will go with the two trapezoids up front. I had planned to run 14 AWG to the rear flood light anyhow, so if I need to add another flood in the back I can. Thanks.

Here is the updated drawing:

 

[clenhart]

Diagram looks good. You might consider using toggle type switches with marine type rubber boots over them if your tractor is going to be out in the elements.

 

[canoetrpr]

Hey clenhart:

Is that a toolbox you cooked that I see on the right side of your tractor?