General like to use split loom cover on exposed wiring and not have to worry about insulation type (use whatever is in wire drawer).... And also give wires a little protection....
THere is no reason to "T" into a hydraulic line unless you want full time monitoring, easy enough to just add gauge into a quick connect/disconnect and dead the flow into gauge for just enough time to get gauge reading.....
And just a not the "primary system" relief valve is usually ahead of...
Front axle design looks alot like what ISEKI uses on Massey Ferguson and other tractors.... Its pretty simple front end but the only real nasty is the "C" clip on the bottom of the vertical shaft.... Seal may be two piece, both on horizontal and vertical plane...
From your description of problem, it would appear there problem is between the start switch and solenoid/starter.... Sounds like either a short in wiring or start solenoid/starter failure... Best thing you can do is get wiring diagram and look for a short at any place where a failure may...
IF voltmeter says alternator is putting out about 14 Volts (+/-) the alternator is working....
Personally after checking alternator voltage I would have battery load tested and clean all the terminals at battery to bright and shiny (battery post & cables) and ground connection at frame...
IF style/shape/form factor does not match what is in coupler now, its probably not correct part.... JUst sort of when through this with my SCUT and found out generic "O" ring from auto parts store ($0.69 each) works just fine....
Final follow up... So far none of the hydraulic companies I tried to contact bothered to respond.... So today I got out a old dental pick and pulled "O" ring out of female side of coupler... Took it to local auto parts and low and behold it turnout it's a generic 9/16 in. I.D. by 3/4 in. O.D...
Final follow up... So far none of the hydraulic companies I tried to contact bothered to respond.... So today I got out a old dental pick and pulled "O" ring out of female side of coupler... Took it to local auto parts and low and behold it turnout it's a generic 9/16 in. I.D. by 3/4 in. O.D...
Part of your problem may be jack is starved of hydraulic oil.... With jack in side and pump horizontal it my not have enough oil to fill pump/cylinder.... IT may not be the fact you can not bent the bars, it may be a fact the jack can not exert its full 6 ton rating...
Turn jack 90° so pump is...
Checked there..... No luck.... Other than I can get the complete connector (male & female) for about $25 which is a lot better than the $100 AGCO want for the same thing under their catalog part number and lists it as wrong size to boot.......
Have searched internet up and down and have gotten...