Recent content by geneP

Does your tractor have a wet clutch (power shuttle)?

It is easier than using the twist type links. I can sit in the tractor seat and turn the crank and adjust the leveling on the attachment. You will quickly learn to adjust the link with no load on the arm.

I bought a tire driven FMC Sidewinder last summer. It is so quiet, all I hear is the blades cutting the grass. From comments I read, FMC made good equipment. If a pull behind fits your needs, you made a great deal.

I do use concentrated antifreeze with distilled water. I looked up rebuild kits on both engines today. It appears that both use wet liners in the blocks. I've decided to play it safe and use the antifreeze that is pre-charged since both engines have wet liners.

I have a Case IH D155 engine. What kind of antifreeze do I need for this engine? I also have a 5 cylinder Kubota, and I need to know what kind of antifreeze for it too. Do I need the heavy duty antifreeze pre-charged or is conventional ethylene glycol okay? Thanks for your advice.

The only google results I get are for a keyboard. Do you have a link?

The radiator in my Case IH 385 tractor has a few leaking places and the filler neck is damaged. I took it out with the intention of having it repaired. When I saw the extent of the seeps and leaks and considered the age, I began to look into available replacements. I was pleasantly surprised to...

as you might have noticed from my previous posts, I'm doing some long overdue maintenance on my 385 tractor. The radiator has had a slow leak for a while and I have taken it out to repair/replace. After getting it out so I can look at it more throughly, I see at least 3 places that it has been...

The brake master cylinders have been leaking for a while. I plan to rebuild or replace them this winter. Does a rebuild kit require any special tools or present any real challenges? New cylinders are reasonable enough, but some parts these days are questionable. I'm looking for feedback on the...

Thanks for that tip!

I suspect the 5/16" steel would be difficult to get those tight bend in. I'll use the Copper-Nickel. Thanks

LouNY, I was thinking of one piece that would reach between the two outlet fittings on the tank now and use compression unions to connect. Thanks for the tip on two pieces. What kind of brake lines did you use, steel or nickel-copper? If steel will work with all the bends, it would be less...

I called a dealer, he said there is only one factory line in the USA at $535 plus shipping. Not an option for me. I see the easy bending copper-nickel brake line advertised. I think I'll measure the plastic line for a replacement.

AGM batteries are advertised to be vibration resistant and touted for off-road use. They do cost more. I copied this from a google search: AGM batteries are highly resistant to vibration because the woven fiberglass mats and plates are packed tight—thereby making the batteries immune to...

Thank you for those pictures. My line definitely doesn't tuck in on the "passenger" side like your pictures show. Looks fine on the left side. I bought this tractor used, but I've had it for 18 years. The line on the "passenger" side looks to have been damaged at the connection to the steel pipe...