Recent content by mangler

Not really the point. Since this is not normal wear and tear, I was looking on user experiences to see if this is typical, or not. One user mentioned the connector is typically at fault, not the element. Hoping this is the case as it would be much easier to repair.

Extensive testing, thank you...One thing that has a big influence for me is time sitting. Less than a day i will get the same 1.1 sec. But 3days or more sitting I get 2-3 seconds. And that is with synthetic... Hopefully the pressure switch is OK. Already bummed my engine blockheater seems dead...

First off I am using fairly heavy oil in my (15W40 Amsoil diesel synthetic). I am posting this because it seems to take 2-3 seconds to get the oil light to go out on dry starts. Last start was around 12degC (54F), so it was not overly cold. I swear I had not seen the oil light delay before the...

One thing you can say about that M18 Milwaukee battery grease gun, it cranks out the pressure. 10000 psi or more, effortless. I know some lever guns claim the same, but it is far from effortless. Sometimes that can be the difference between a stubborn zerk accepting grease or not.

I know this is an old thread, but I just got the LocknLube lever gun, with clear barrel, and replaced the bulk fill nipple with a standard zerk. Now I can just fill bulk it with my pneumatic 8 gallon grease gun. It's easy to use with lock and lube tip, I think my pneumatic gun and heavy hose...

I guess I expect the old grease to go somewhere, but i feel better seeing ooze out from each side of the bushing in the joint than on the front face. Feels like a better purge of old grease I guess.

Thanks for the reminder, I was going to get this done this w-e. Is 100ft-lbs from the service manual? I saw 125 ft-lbs as a min recommended torque for M12 fasteners (which I believe these are ). Good either way, I'm sure 100 ft-lbs would prevent most issues anyway. The real key being checking...

Thanks I would consider them snug now, they were quite loose in some cases. Not sure how the ear got bent, but it was not from me snugging the nuts. I put maybe 15lbft on them, if that. What would contribute to having grease flow out of the face when I am greasing the pins? It is very obvious...

These nuts...

Thanks, maybe I mispoke and they are not the pin nuts? They are the large nuts that keep all the loader joints together. I figure if they are too loose, would that not encourage side to side play when using the loader?

I just noticed I was getting a lot of grease coming out of the pin faces when I tried greasing the loader on specific areas (mostly the rear pins closest to the seat) and that some of the nuts holding the pins were quite loose. I went around and tightened them "snug" with a 36mm wrench. Is there...

Found it, your instructions are better than the shop manual... 40A fuse looks fine, 1.7 ohms across the terminals. Very easy to remove though(especially compared to the main glow plug fuse), maybe it was loose? I'll re-install and do another amp test. After replugging the fuse,air heater seems...

I am now almost certain that my intake air pre-heater is not doing it's job. I just need to find the fuse for it now, not sure where it is. Edit: I hope I get 1700 hours out of my CK2610! Any large mechanical repairs to date?

Yes definitely a DC clamp, I got the multimeter for that function (Habotest HT206D). Nice to be able to get an amp reading without taking things apart. It is a pretty rare feature, you have to seek it out.

Edit. Put a clamp ammeter on the air pre-heater wire, and got 0amps with the key in glow plug heating position. I expect that is not normal. From the crappy supplied manual it seems the fuse is a "slow blow" and may? be near the radiator, in a special little plastic enclosure. Driver side one...