Ford 1510 Hydraulic problems after fluid change

[MCross]

Is there anything unique about changing the hydraulic fluid in a 1510? Seemed pretty straight forward to me but something is not right.
The tractor was working fine yesterday, but decided it was time to change the fluid. Drain oil from all 4 drain plugs, 2 on tranny and 2 on differential. Let it drip for several hours and re-installed the plugs. Changed filter, added hydraulic fluid. Started the tractor and now there is no movement from 3 point hitch. broke the banjo bolt loose on diverter valve while running and there is no pressure. Does the pump need to be primed or something? The pump sits higher than everything else and it may be cavitating? Took the low pressure hose loose from pump, can see hydraulic fluid in the pipe below the rubber hose the connects the tube together. Put it all back together and tried again, no go. I ran it for a couple of minutes to make sure but nothing.How long can I run it to see if it will suck the fluid up to the pump? Didn't want to damage the pump. How to get air out of suction line?

Sorry for the long winded post, but wanted to give as much info as possible.

I have tried to search the forum for help but apparently my searching skills aren't up to par.

Thanks
Mike

 

[iamwallybee]

Did you check the intake screen? My 1710 screen is located on the left side below seat. The system should be self priming, self bleeding. Did you fill the filter with oil before install? Seems I remember someone had a problem with that. Also is the filter making a proper seal?

 

[MCross]

Thanks for the reply!

Was unaware of a intake screen, looked at the parts breakdown on the NH website, but couldn't find it. Can you provide additional info on where it is located?
Yesterday when I changed the oil, I didn't fill filter with fluid, however I thought about that today and tried it but there is no change. Should oil come out pretty steady when the filter is removed?

Mike

 

[JC-jetro]

Mike,

Other than NH website that is diagrammatic I don't have a good picture of the pump inlet or outlet. I checked the same on NH website and did not see an inlet scree like i have for my 1700 for 1510. Is the oil level on the transmission dipstick below or above the inlet on the hyd pump? Make sure not to run your tractor for extended time waiting for it to prime since all the while your gear pump is running dry prelude to a pump failure. If the pump seals are good and you have a good oil film on the gear it shroud be able suck the air out of the inlet pipe and self prime. On similar application I have I have seen filling the inlet pipe manually right from the banjo and filling the out let pipe from the banjo might do some good. See if you can open the discharge banjo and squirt a teaspoons of hyd oil by a syringe or a squeeze bottle. The key is to have the gear and seals covered with a film of oil. This probably sounds crazy but I'd probably push some compressed air thru diffy vent hole to help push the oil up thru the inlet pipe to the pump. Once it starts and you get the air out then you'll be good to go. These pumps don't have a "foot valve" to keep the prime in so the normal height of pump intake is always lower the normal oil level so there would not be chance of siphoning back.

JC,

 

[MCross]

I thought I had it figured out but at least I think I found a problem. According to NH website the dipstick length changed on the 1510 from 9.13" to 7.68" beginning with SN UH0026. My serial number is UH00728 so I believe it should be the shorter one. I checked and it has the longer one. Maybe replaced sometime in the past. This explains why no oil came out when I took the filter off the put fluid in. So after making new marks on dipstick to reflect the shorter version and adding oil, I took filter off again to add oil, but it had oil and oil was coming out of the hole on the filter mount. I thought alright, maybe we have it fixed, but no such luck. I did remove the return line (big pipe on top of pump) and squirted oil in to fill up pipe and put some in the pump as well (which I have done a few times so the pump don't get dry) but it still doesn't want to play.

If the big pipe on top of pump is indeed the inlet, I believe it might be a little higher than the oil level.
Have to look for the diffy vent hole.
Not sure where the discharge banjo is? Are you talking about the small pipe at the bottom of pump?


I just looked on the NH website again, and it looks like the small pipe on bottom of pump is the inlet pipe? This comes from the diverter valve. If this is the case I am doing things backwards. I thought larger pipe on top was the inlet (coming from filter). Which is correct? Pressure side on top or bottom of pump?

I took a couple of pics of my hydraulic pump.



Thanks
Mike

 

[JC-jetro]

Mike,

Larger pipe is always the intake and almost always the filter is on the suction side or return. The smaller dia pipe is always discharge. yes, discharge banjo/pipe is on the pump outlet to your main relief and then to lift spool. I'm surprised that the pump inlet is lower than the oil level. pressure side is always on smaller dia pipe.

on mine the vent hole is on back top rear of diffy just behind the seat next to top link. It comes off easy. I'm thinking a bit of air pressure above the oil in diffy housing might help to help getting the inlet pipe better flooded.

any pics you might have to visualize things better?

Just a wild guess, did you put the right hyd oil in it? Ford 134 is thin and nothing like a heavy gear oil.

JC,

 

[JC-jetro]

Mike,

The top larger dia pipe is for sure inlet to the pump or suction. On centrifugal pump or even gear pump I have put in a tee that is called a "priming tee". I put in a valve or a plug where I could put a funnel to fill the pipe up to start the pump. Have you taken the rubber hose off (on top) and manually fill the pipe all the way up and then reconnect to the inlet pipe just few inches before the banjo. then you have only few inches of empty pipe just before pump inlet that might do it. You can also take the banjo nut off on top( inlet) and try to fill it up as much you can, put the nut back in and try.

Make sure the big round o-ring is there in the grove like it should. If it sucks air from the banjo o-ring it effectively kills the pump priming.

JC,

 

[MCross]

The pump and both lines are above the oil level
I would be happy to take pictures of anything that would help figure this out, just ask.
I thought the bigger pipe was inlet but the description of the lower pipe on NH website threw me a curve.
I used oil from Tractor Supply

I have taken the inlet pipe off the pump and squirted oil in from the end of the pipe till it ran out. Also put oil in top of pump several times to hopefully keep it lubricated.
Checked the rubber O-Ring, wiped it off and wiped off top of pump put back together but nothing. Although I have only tried this once since discovering the dipstick malfunction. The longer dipstick would give false reading and the oil was way low until I marked it with the dimensions of the shorter dipstick. So it is either way low or now overfilled.

 

[JC-jetro]

Mike ,

how about the o-ring on the banjo? did you see it?did you install it correctly? So the oil was from TSC, was it Ford 134 equivalent? I'm baffled here? did you install the filter right? it looks like you don't have spin in hyd filter. did you install the filter media right?

JC,

can you take panoramic pic from pump to the right following the inlet pipe routing all the way to diffy?

 

[MCross]

I do have the spin on filter. I used a Wix 51736. As far as I know the O-Ring is installed properly. It just fits in a groove.

Here is a pic of the oil ans the side of tractor. You can see the spin on filter at the rear of the footrest.

Now you got me wondering about the oil, but it was recommended by someone here a while back. It doesn't specifically say Ford 134.
It's a pretty thin oil, definitely not like a 90w gear oil

Traveller® Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid is a specially formulated, premium multigrade (SAE 10W-20) fluid blended with the highest quality lubricating oils and the most technological advanced additive system. Provides superior protection and performance for modern farm equipment employing a common sump to lubricate hydrostatic transmissions, differentials, wet brakes, hydraulics and final drive gears