New Owner of a Kioti LB2204

[RandR10]

Found more information on the Kubota/Kioti similarities on this particular engine number. I'm cross-referencing the specs between the L245 service manual and the LB2204 service manual. I've found that every single measurement is exactly the same for the crank mains, crank rod pins, wrist pin, bore diamenter and even the oversize/undersize dimensions and maximum allowable clearances. I looked at the cam specs, and they're the same too. At this point I'm 99.9% confident in these being the same engine. I'm still not sure whose factory it was made in, but I can't find any measurement in either manual that would prevent these parts from interchanging. This is good news for both Kioti and Kubota owners because it expands the pool of possible donor machines for each respective brand should a catastrophic engine failure happen. I've seen a lot of posts from people looking for the Kubota version of this engine to replace theirs and eventually just giving up because they're so uncommon. I've also contacted the local Kioti dealer twice looking for parts to overhaul this engine and they just haven't gotten back to me, so it's good that I can source parts elsewhere.

 

[LEChambers]

Thank you for all of the detailed information and photos! Also the detailed information on the interchangeable parts from Kubota. No luck from my local Kioti dealer here either. Good luck with your rebuild. I look forward to seeing how it all comes together.

 

[MIKEH2204]

Hi folks, I just stumble across RandR's project and I'm highly interested in what the out come is, as far as Kubota/Kioti engines and parts. I get the feeling this maybe a Chevy vs GMC scenario that both Kioti and Kubota employees are adhering to. I actual walked into a Chevy garage one time and the guy told me the the truck part I was looking for would not fit my GMC (of course it did). I'm getting that same feeling here between KIOTI/KUBOTA at least in the older models. I have a 1987 Kioti LB2204, seems to run just fine (knock on wood when dealing with custom or antique)

 

[RandR10]

I have an update for everyone on this. I attempted to bore the original sleeve on that broken piston's cylinder and the scoring was too bad for it to clean up with a 0.020" (0.5 mm) over bore. There's no 0.030 or 0.040 over pistons available for these, so I bought a rebuild kit with new sleeves and standard size pistons and rings for a Kubota DH1101 (also compatible with D1100, D1101 and D1102 Kubota engines). Upon assembly with this kit, the only part I've encountered so far that hasn't worked is the valve seals. I ended up using valve seals from an early '90s Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 (the Vulcan pushrod engine, not the DOHC Duratec) which fit perfectly. Right now I've got the bottom end assembled, the head is on, cam is installed, crank and idler gear are on, and I'm just about to install the injection pump cam and gear. I'll probably wait to give another update until I get the tractor running.

So to review, the cylinder liners, pistons, rings, wrist pins, wrist pin bushings, rod bearings, main bearings, and so far all of the gaskets specific to the Kubota DH1101 also fit the Kioti DH1101. The pistons look like they were cast from the same mold. They are absolutely identical to the originals. As I said above, this is great news for both these early Kioti tractor and Kubota L245 owners because it gives a cross reference that allows a broader pool of cores to be used for things like engine blocks and cranks, and guys needing to re-sleeve and overhaul LB2204 engines can just get the Kubota parts. Those L245 engines are unicorns and very expensive to get cranks and blocks for. You can probably buy a whole LB2202/04 in good running condition for less than a complete running Kubota DH1101 engine by itself. The market for Kubota parts reminds me of old Mopar stuff. I hope this helps some people get their tractors running again.

 

[RandR10]

Another update. I finished engine assembly and put the tractor together just enough to drive it around. Didn't want to put the finishing touches on it in case it had to be taken back apart again. It starts a little hard in the cold weather with the 6+ month old fuel in it, but once it warms up a bit it runs great. It's not making oil now so looks like the unburned fuel on the dead cylinder theory was the correct one. My biggest problem right now is getting it up to full operating temp because it's cold enough outside that the water temp only gets up to about 140 by my hand held laser thermometer. Oil temp was barely above 90*F. This is after about 20 minutes of running up and down the hill in my back yard in high gear. I think I'll have to block off the radiator to properly break this thing in.

Next on the list of repairs needed are:
1. Power steering - I think this may be working somewhat, but it's really weak. I've done some research and it may just need some more flow from the proportioning valve.
2. Front axle - When I hard turn I get a sound from the front left wheel that sounds almost like a tire rubbing. I'm assuming it's a bad bearing somewhere in the gear train.
3. 3-point positioning lever will not stay up. Previous owner said this was a problem with something internal to the housing. It should be something simple because the lift otherwise works fine. Probably a spring loaded friction surface of some kind I'm thinking.
4. Loader bucket - The bucked has an added piece of steel in the back to give it a radius rather than a squared off shape. I'm assuming to help release soil that's in it. That piece rusted so I'll be needing to weld in a patch.
5. Lights - No lights on this thing. Fired it up for the first time last night after dark and I was driving it around using my cell phone camera light to light the way lol. It would probably be helpful to have some lights on this thing.

After those are done this thing should be mechanically 100%. Previous owner went through most of the hydraulic hoses so those are mostly new. I'm pretty excited to have the engine running well for now though. First time ever rebuilding a diesel engine, first time rebuilding a head, first time doing dry sleeves and first time boring and honing a set of cylinders myself. I would have had a machine shop do a lot of that work but the local shops wanted disgusting amounts of money and they were backed up for months. Took me a bit longer but it saved me lots of money and it was a great learning experience. Now I won't be afraid to tackle that kind of work in the future and I'll know whether it's worth messing with too.

 

[RandR10]

Ran it for over an hour today. Blocked off the radiator and put a new radiator cap on. Old one didn't have a functioning gasket. Drove it around for an hour or so. Found a couple leaks once it built some pressue at some hose clamps and I tightened those. Oil pan temp was about 165 when I parked it, so I think that should be enough heat to seat the rings and give everything a good heat cycle before I go in and re-torque the head bolts and re-set the valves. I'm kind of surprised with how cool this engine runs. Found a new problem too. Oil puking out the top of the transmission after I run it for a while. I'll have to add it to the list of things to address.

Also, does anyone know where I could find a new dash kit for this thing? The fuel and temp gauges work but the tachometer and hour meter are toast. Would be nice to have that working again so I don't over-rev it.

 

[K5lwq]

I think they used the same dash as my LK2554. It is not available anymore. I did a retrofit to an old Ford 3000 dash.

With both the tach and hour meter not working have you checked the cable? Those are available.

 

[RandR10]

Yup. Cable is fine. The actual needle for the tach is detached and floating around inside the dash so it's definitely something inside.

 

[K5lwq]

Yes every needle broke on all my gauges. That is when I did the mod to the Ford instrument panel.

 

[Boss 302]

Nice work and excellent details, you should be able to enjoy many hours of seat time.