Painting YM-146 Clearcoat or no clearcoat any advice

[bmaverick]

GT14, that looks fantastic!



I hope that HF sprayer is faster than the similar Wagner unit I used many years ago. A whole afternoon to spray a kitchen. Per coat. Never again!

And a general paint question: Is Rustoleum's topcoat, over Rustoleum red primer, suitable where diesel could get spilled on it?

Rustoleum makes a tractor & implement paint. Its formulated to withstand diesel, oils, grease, urea, etc.
Its suppose to pass the JDQ53.3 and Cat EC-12 requirements for environmentals.

 

[careyo63]

Fredricks equipment has painted a few Yanmars. I'm sure they have and use the best there is. I think I'd check with them.

 

[bmaverick]

I also installed a rear LED work-light on the fender. Yanmar looks like they made the fender to add a light since they have an extra hole with a grommet through the fender and under the fender for the wire. I wired it to my head lights which are also custom LED with a plasma cut grill.

I put off the rear work light for about 2 years now. All talk and no do. Well today I did it too.

Its the Harbor Freight halogen rear work light for ATVs and boats. For me, it's a direct fit tractor work light. $9 with coupon.

It looks tiny in the wrapper.

Now look at its real size.

One hole in the fender is for the mounting and the other for the wire to pass under the fender and clip mounted to the wire harness of the 2-way flashers. I added a body grommet t protect the wire.

It nearly looks Yanmar OE. Just need a switch and a fuse next.

 

[ponytug]

Looks original! I hope that yours lasts longer than mine did. Under 20 hours of use for my HF before it died...I switched to LED, and yes, it wouldn't look authentic.

All the best,

Peter

 

[bmaverick]

Looks original! I hope that yours lasts longer than mine did. Under 20 hours of use for my HF before it died...I switched to LED, and yes, it wouldn't look authentic.

All the best,

Peter

Thanks. I've not hooked up power yet, so a fuse, switch and a small resistor could do the job keeping the halogen from blowing.

Did you take yours apart and see if the bulb is replaceable or if you can just wire in LEDs inside? I have a few 35W 12VDC LEDs made by LE lighting corp. The output is like a 150W regular bulb. I could light up a forest with it. LOL

I need to replace the headlamps, but whats out there for LEDs look silly. The Stanley 001-1259 is the OE make. Honda, Kawasaki, and others used them on snowmobiles and off road cycles. The dumb bulbs are those P15D types. Not even close to any industry standard of today. Maybe taking them apart and sealing the back with the LEDs would work. I'm not quite there yet. I know I'll need them for winter plowing.

I added a grommet for the tiny wire too. I may need to place a thick heat-shrink tube on it above the fender and thru the hole.

 

[ponytug]

Thanks. I've not hooked up power yet, so a fuse, switch and a small resistor could do the job keeping the halogen from blowing.

Did you take yours apart and see if the bulb is replaceable or if you can just wire in LEDs inside? I have a few 35W 12VDC LEDs made by LE lighting corp. The output is like a 150W regular bulb. I could light up a forest with it. LOL

I need to replace the headlamps, but whats out there for LEDs look silly. The Stanley 001-1259 is the OE make. Honda, Kawasaki, and others used them on snowmobiles and off road cycles. The dumb bulbs are those P15D types. Not even close to any industry standard of today. Maybe taking them apart and sealing the back with the LEDs would work. I'm not quite there yet. I know I'll need them for winter plowing.

I added a grommet for the tiny wire too. I may need to place a thick heat-shrink tube on it above the fender and thru the hole.

View attachment 760085

I did take mine apart. (Who me, curious?) Inside is a standard sealed beam headlight. I suspect with time the rubber gets hard and oxidized, but new it was pretty easy to pry it off.

In the past, I have used LED P15D replacement bulbs, but the light pattern, at least for my reflectors, was "off", as in weird light coverage projected forward. I think that comes from the size difference between a small tungsten filament and an array of LEDs. I suspect that HID P15D would be better in the sense the bulb illumination area is closer to a tungsten filament, but they aren't cheap, and I suspect will throw up a ton of light. That may, or may not. be a good thing. Try eBay. "HID P15D" or P15D-25-3.

I switched to LED arrays as I wasn't trying to keep a look.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Rebeldad1]

have done several pieces of equipment brushed on. you have to use a quality paint and thin the paint very little. keep it wet, dont try to paint over areas that are starting to dry. (if that makes sense) Great shine and no brush marks. Takes a little practice...

There used to be several great youtube videos on this

 

[California]

have done several pieces of equipment brushed on. you have to use a quality paint and thin the paint very little. keep it wet, dont try to paint over areas that are starting to dry. (if that makes sense) Great shine and no brush marks. Takes a little practice...

There used to be several great youtube videos on this

'A little practice' for sure!

60 years ago, on my paper route was an old semi-retired sign painter. He said he had hand-painted automobiles back in the day with great success. But quality of paint and the brushes were essential elements of quality work. That and lots of experience.

 

[ponytug]

Lots of experience.

Did I mention that you need lots of experience?

I used to paint houses and boats. Getting a gloss blemish free top coat takes diligence all the way up, and observationally even experienced painters fluff it periodically. I have seen guys paint boats brushing on a half pint at a time, constantly adjusting the mix to the changing conditions (primarily temperature, and humidity). I think it takes experience to sense how the brush is dragging on the surface and know how to adjust your technique and the mix. I have know guys who find it relaxing and definitely get into the zone. One guy who gets in the zone and freehand paints mullions and window trim. I have never seen him fluff it. Beyond my skill level.

All I know is I don't think that I'm good enough to do a good enough job brushing the final coats on. I do think that for the average bear, spraying is more likely to end up with a finish that will be of reasonable quality.

All the best,

Peter

 

[3Ts]

I know this is not a true top coat, but what about putting a clear polyurethane finish over paint. In areas that have lots of use (like kitchen drawers) paint doesn't last very long. I've put a poly top coat over paint and it seems to last a lot longer.