I have a John Deere 3520 with a 300CX front loader. Problem I’m having is just out of the blue, the lift will not curl up or down. The hydraulic cylinder will move about .125 inch and then it will deadhead the pump and I guess the relief valve flows oil back to the pump. It’s been working great for years, the only thing that happened lately is the 1 inch diameter rod which connects the sides of the lift and is a pivot point had been broken and one half slipped out. In the meantime, I didn’t have any attachments on front, I spent a 4-6 hours over a couple days mowing with a brush hog on the back and the lift attachment fitting on the front. The ground was very rough, but I don’t think that would matter. Anyways, after mowing, in the meantime until I get a new pivot rod, I found some extra round stock and put it thru the loose side and attached some collars so it wouldn’t slip out. This is when I noticed it wouldn’t curl. I first thought is, maybe it is jammed for some reason, so disconnected the attachment on one end of the hydraulic cylinder so it could be move freely. Still the same thing. Does anyone have any ideas on what could have happened?
John Deere 3520 and 300CX Lift Problem - Help Needed
- Thread starter Mark460
- Start date
Disconnect the loader quick connects, clean the male and female couplers and reattach. If the problem persists, swap the dump/curl hoses with the boom up/down hoses and see if the problem moves or if it stays with the loader.
beenthere
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Puzzling dilemma
First I would separate the hyd. lines disconnects and reconnect them. Sometimes they don't get seated well at the connectors.
Next, I would next pull the pin at the joint (red line) and isolate the quick attachment completely. Then see if the cylinders move okay. That will remove any of the linkage seen between the cylinder and the forks.
Also some pressure readings at your quick connects may reveal the problem if it still hasn't been isolated.
First I would separate the hyd. lines disconnects and reconnect them. Sometimes they don't get seated well at the connectors.
Next, I would next pull the pin at the joint (red line) and isolate the quick attachment completely. Then see if the cylinders move okay. That will remove any of the linkage seen between the cylinder and the forks.
Also some pressure readings at your quick connects may reveal the problem if it still hasn't been isolated.
Attachments
I found out what the problem was. I thought I'd try to swap the hoses as mentioned and as I was looking at the connections, I notice one was loose and not plugged in all the way. Works good now, I feel a little dumb for not noticing this earlier, but I'm just glad it was something easy. Thanks. Now its on to other problems to fix.