Finishing mower blade removal question

[SgtSluggo]

So I now have a Farm King Y750R finishing mower. It sat in a field for about a decade before I pulled it out to try to get it working. I was able to get it running, but I am really struggling to get the blades off for sharpening/replacement.

I don't have a real breaker bar, but I am also not sure how to really get enough strength on the retaining nut while keeping the blades still.

Anyone got a good technique for this?

Thanks.

 

[duffer]

You should be able wedge a box wrench on the top of the bolt above the blade, and then use the breaker bar to loosen the nut underneath the blade.

Spray some penetrating oil on the bolt and let it set overnite. If that doesn't work, take a torch and heat up the bottom nut and then try to break it loose.

 

[RjCorazza]

I used to block the blade with a 2x4 so it would bind up against the decking, then use a pipe over the wrench. The handle for a floor jack works well also.
Really the best method is air tools though. They'll make life easier for years to come.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I always used a chain on the blade. Use a wrench and a cheater pipe on the blade bolt. You might need some bigger tools because they are sometimes pretty tough. I changed 60 blades every other day, sharpened them on the off day. Replaced bad ones. I had air tools, but still broke them loose with a wrench. Sometimes air wouldn't get it. So I just broke them all loose with a wrench, since I was gonna need it anyway. Be sure to block it so it won't fall on you.

 

[seville009]

So I now have a Farm King Y750R finishing mower. It sat in a field for about a decade before I pulled it out to try to get it working. I was able to get it running, but I am really struggling to get the blades off for sharpening/replacement.

I don't have a real breaker bar, but I am also not sure how to really get enough strength on the retaining nut while keeping the blades still.

Anyone got a good technique for this?

Thanks.

You don’t need a real breaker bar, just something that will fit over the wrench handle, and is long to give you leverage (4 to 5 feet is enough). A steel pipe, or something like that - look around your garage and see what’s laying around.

I use this:

 

[m7040]

cordless impact wrench is what I use

 

[Have tractor did travel]

My contribution to this comes late - but I'll bet it's the solution.
Some old time finish mower has reversed threads. That is, to loosen them, turn the nuts clockwise.
Old Chrysler products used to have the lug nuts on one side with same reversed threads, but I can't remember which side it was

 

[BackRoad]

^^^^ My Rhino 3 spindle finish mower has reverse thread bolts holding on the mower blades.

And they are not cheap to replace if you hit a stump (errrr...so I have heard

 

[Little Red Tractor]

My contribution to this comes late - but I'll bet it's the solution.
Some old time finish mower has reversed threads. That is, to loosen them, turn the nuts clockwise.
Old Chrysler products used to have the lug nuts on one side with same reversed threads, but I can't remember which side it was

They tightened in the direction that the wheels turned, as I recall. Too long ago to be sure.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

If clearances are tight (no room for a pipe), and you're not too worried about a box wrench, a solid blow to the wrench with a 2-3 pound hammer might do the trick. I have a 4 pound lead hammer that's worked for that without damaging the wrench.