Shop slab additions!

[rangerfredbob]

Ok, I need ideas in the next couple weeks, hopefully a couple in the next couple days... I would post in my shop build post but I think some of it is already in there and I don't want to dig... plus thought this might be interesting... I think some of the ideas were in Big Barn's thread, but that's WAY too much searching...

Anywho, I'm building a 36'x48' pole barn shop with a 2 post lift planned and a 6" slab with rebar, hopefully pouring this month!

I want to add some sockets in the floor for grinder pedestals and frame straightening uses. I liked the idea of putting some chain in the bottom of the socket for frame straightening so that's in the plan, my current question is what size to make the socket? I would think the most handy would be 2.5" OD square tubing (AKA "Receiver stock") so I could stick 2" square tube in it for pedestals and such, thoughts? Going to try to get the metal for that Saturday if I can...

I had bought a brass floor mount outlet a year ago thinking about adding it but am rethinking that...

Am already going to do PEX for in floor heating, so that's covered, I need to order that...

Thanks!

 

[mikester]

Insulate your floor minimum of 2 inches and use a vapour barrier.

 

[3Ts]

As for floor mount electrical outlets. My experience with them has not been good, the builder has not been able to get them set in the concrete right and they end up tilted. Then the builder also can't get the height set right. If you do go that route, be sure you have a guy that has done several of them before. Otherwise they'll end being a trip hazard even without anything plugged in. I'm having the one in our house living room plugged and redoing the floor.

 

[Rustyiron]

I put in "sockets" that I welded up with some rebar to hit the surrounding concrete. I bought the longest reciever tube I could find and cut it down to shorter pieces. Regular tube has a weld seam that will interfere with sliding a 2" into it.

Chain pots, I ran into a guy scraping a bunch of automotive stuff (at the scrap yard waiting for the scales) I bought about 8 of them for cheap and have them in my slab now.
All of these slab goodies only get used maybe once a year, but when you need them, there's no substitute and with radiant, coming back in and busting up concrete to add something is risky. In my previous shop I cast in a 4-5' piece of rr track (up side down) and that was very handy for some stratening situations.
Take a ton of pictures just before you pour, then when you think you have enough, take some more. Be sure you include references points. I'm in a situation where I'm adding a 2 post lift 10 years later and am sooo happy to have good pictures.

 

[BackRoad]

Mikester, you said to insulate...and Rusty Iron's photos looks to have 2 inch foam vertically on side walls.

Is that what you're meaning?

Not thinking you put foam under the floor also - is it just plastic vapor barrier over the stone fill?

 

[Rustyiron]

Both, they call it a "thermal break". I have 2" under the slab also. Some guys will just do an 8' perimeter, and foam is expensive but well worth it especially if you have plans to be there for years to come. :thumbsup:

 

[BackRoad]

Rusty Iron, that floor you laid looks pretty well done...welded bracket supports for the rebar, foam holding it up around the edges, nicely tied down PEX. Sweet!

Have you used the floor heating and does the density/layout of tubing work for you?

Sorry, not intending to hijack the thread about floor and pedestal anchors!

 

[Hay Dude]

I put in "sockets" that I welded up with some rebar to hit the surrounding concrete. I bought the longest reciever tube I could find and cut it down to shorter pieces. Regular tube has a weld seam that will interfere with sliding a 2" into it.

Chain pots, I ran into a guy scraping a bunch of automotive stuff (at the scrap yard waiting for the scales) I bought about 8 of them for cheap and have them in my slab now.
All of these slab goodies only get used maybe once a year, but when you need them, there's no substitute and with radiant, coming back in and busting up concrete to add something is risky. In my previous shop I cast in a 4-5' piece of rr track (up side down) and that was very handy for some stratening situations.
Take a ton of pictures just before you pour, then when you think you have enough, take some more. Be sure you include references points. I'm in a situation where I'm adding a 2 post lift 10 years later and am sooo happy to have good pictures.
View attachment 678629 View attachment 678630View attachment 678631

Looks great. I just did a floor with rebar, WWF and foam insulation.
Soon will come the succinct “expert” concrete inspectors telling us “amateur contractors” that rebar isnt needed

 

[3Ts]

I'm curious - you have both rebar and mesh for your reinforcement, do you need both? I always thought one or the other was sufficient. I've never seen both used. Also, what does your concrete guy say about having the reinforcement on chairs, most of the ones I've talked with say they can pull it up into the concrete during the pour so they don't trip over the rebar during the pour. (I've never seen pulling it up work all that well though.)

 

[mikester]

Mikester, you said to insulate...and Rusty Iron's photos looks to have 2 inch foam vertically on side walls.

Is that what you're meaning?

Not thinking you put foam under the floor also - is it just plastic vapor barrier over the stone fill?

You want vapour barrier AND insulating foam under the slab. I can't tell from the pics, looks like concrete blocks under the slab. It might sound expensive to do it now but you will save it in heating bills over the years. You want the vapour barrier to keep the moisture levels down inside the buiding.

Lately I've seen builders using 2 inches of closed cell spray foam under the slab and onto the walls, makes a good thermal break.