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I would recommend older, used, smaller agricultural tractors, Ford, Massey, John Deere etc, they will have more power (particularly if considering a flail), more stability and far more robust than the compacts which I consider for home use only plus not plastered with electronic junk which will...

In my opinion you are better off getting (new or used) quality mower, Ferris, Scag etc. and a used small agricultural tractor, you are then sorted.

Get your self a self a 360 digger, it will be a decision you will never regret. It is rare that ours is not in use most days.

I have put up a workshop last year for my semi retirement, was going for a two post, even had the floor made thicker for the posts. At the last moment I switched to a four post which not only does not have to be bolted down but can be moved around on wheels if required ( used it to put up the...

In my opinion, if you are capable of doing most of the work your self I would cross all three of those dealer reliant tractors from your list and look at larger second hand machines with as little electronics as possible. As has already been suggested some thing 60 to 70 horse (maybe even 80)...

Some mowers are made in batches, I do not know if this is the case with some tractors. I purchased a new Ferris mower that identified as a couple of years older but had definitely not been used ( but then the hour meter wasn't working ). It is very frustrating as you have purchased a "new"...

I have seven, Ford 7840, 6640 (with fore loader), 5640, 3000 select-o-speed, Massey 35, John Deere 2140 and an Aebi TT210 with front mounted flail, couldn't possibly do without any of them.

Pressure wash, then grease.

You would be much better in my opinion to have a 360 tracked digger, 2.5 / 3 tonne, so much easier to use, they come in for every thing, you will find uses you haven't dreamed of. The day of the back hoe has gone.

Truthfully we have all been there, the man that hasn't made a mistake hasn't done anything!

In the UK we can gross at 24 tonnes (52910 lbs) on the road with an agricultural tractor with coupled brakes, I think it can go to 26 with air brakes but I think your question is what your tractor will handle easily off road in which case 14000 lbs should be no problem.

This is the trouble if you have the economy brands, they don't have the value in them for the dealer to trade on in any form so they are better off offering a discount with out the hassle of the trade, because believe it or not but even dealers have to make money.

Sounds as if your dealer is trying to pull a fast one, 9 months old and forty hours, that's what you expect from a cheap Chinese machine. Unless the dealer can prove you have misused it I would be very disheartened if he doesn't sort this.

Any engine just needs to get the oil up to pressure before work but they also need to get to operating temperature as soon as possible so it has to be a compromise. The engine also needs to calm before stopping, especially if has a turbo, I feel a good rule of thumb is to treat your machine how...

How about mounting it on the three point linkage, either direct or a quick hitch, also be easier to transport to other parts etc.

It sounds as if this tractor fulfils your needs and will probably continue for at least another seventy years doing the same thing without the needs for electronic add on's. If this is your leisure time and you enjoy the company of the old girl I would think you won't find a better...

Of course you need a tractor, I would say preferably a small agricultural rather than a sub compact because that is my preference plus implements are easier to source and it is surprising how many of those you can't do without.

Put a small jump wire to the solenoid after making sure she is out of gear etc, that will tell you if it is a safety or not, if it starts you can finish what you need to do and check it all out when you have time.

From my own personal experience having a 2.5 tonne 360' digger is invaluable, it comes in for every thing, moving trailers, straightening thing's, small crane, there just doesn't seem to be a day it is not used for something, it's there, ready for use. However when I relied on a backhoe...

Ferris zero turn mower, a 61" or perhaps a 72", will do a good job and mow at speeds up to 10mph

Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener, not expensive and easy to do a good job, why bother taking the chain off until it needs replacing?

I do not understand how you consider the type of drive eliminates the need for weight on the rear wheels for traction. The whole point of the Ferguson system was to transfer the weight of the plough onto the rear wheels thus giving traction regardless of how the wheels are driven. This allowed...

I would look at what Ferris (new or used) have to offer, been using them professionally for the past thirty years without to many complaints and in my opinion way in front of their competitors.

I was taught and have always believed that as a rule of thumb that you need a horse power per inch so even if your slip clutch wasn't slipping you are pushing your luck a bit so you would need to take it in easy stages.

Where the dickens does one start?

I hear what you are saying about it being a brand name, but to me a Bush Hog is what we would call a "swipe" where the cutters are three heavy chains mounted on a hub which will just about smash any thing in it's path.

I purchased a 17 tonne Mercedes Lorry from the dealers a long time ago and they had it in for work about a month apart and the service department charged the sales department for a new air filter both times, would I trust a dealer to do my work, no I don't think so, if they are happy to fiddle...

Perhaps they are all wishing they had invested in a Land Rover while they looking for some one to repair their Jeep.

The size of saw is always difficult, the big saw's are great but not for all day use and a compromise is always a compromise. Some one has already suggested a MS461 (or a 361) which is a great saw with good power but how about a 261 to back it up. I would advise keeping to the forestry range...

I have some sample jars, take some from each vehicle and machine each year, pop them into the freezer for 24 hours, that test is good enough for me.

With that amount of ground I would recommend an agricultural tractor of about 70hp rather that the flimsy compacts as they are designed to work, have the stability to do it safely, more comfortable to drive, easier to mount and are easier to find implements for.

I think going down in power is always more noticeable than going up, having more power tends to be easier on the man and machine until the point it affects the pocket with the fuel used, but usually the extra power makes for more economical running.

A while ago I purchased a very second hand Ford 40 series which came on an unusual size mix of tyres and I checked with our main Ford dealer that this was alright and was assured it made no difference by their workshop manager. I found the transmission to be winding up so changed the tyre mix...

You may be a "super star member" but if you instruct a "rookie" to use 4 wheel drive all the time on a machine that is not designed for it they may find that it isn't there when they really need it. Every machine is different and needs to be operated accordingly so it is about how the machine...

No they are not supposed to engage 4 Wheel drive with the pedals used independently but with larger tractors particularly with a loader on I do try not to manoeuvre using the independents unless essential.

I personally would not go for compact tractors but for small used agricultural machines which tend to made to work day in day out, more comfortable to operate, as some one has already pointed out more stable, easier and cheaper to get implements which will be better made, possibly the power...

Unless the tractor has a central differential it is better to keep out of 4 wheel drive unless needed as it will wind the transmission up. Our Fords automatically go to 4 wheel drive when applying locked together brakes which is good for road use but a pain in bottom when doing tight manoeuvring.

Pity you are limiting your choice to these two but Kubota, would be my decision.

Looks typical of a fuel cube trailer to me and the cube bolted on would be part of the strength so it would only be deigned to carry 1000 litres but would probably carry a lot more if only on your property but there could be the time you just want to "pop down the road with it". May be not.

Just a thought, I had the same trouble with our 3000 and it turned out to be the bottom hose collapsing as the rev's increased thus stopping the flow of coolant. I found a suitable spring to fit inside the hose and it cured the problem, I think the replacement hoses are not made to the same...

This tractor is clearly " not fit for purpose", I assume you have consumer protection groups, use them, they need to step up and repair, replace or refund, if not park your self in the dealership drive way and make your self known to every one going in or out.

Don't be afraid to tell the loader how you want it loaded, after all it is you that will be prosecuted not them.

Tends to be the same with a sports car, sometimes justified.

In the UK all loads must be secured, a lot are not and until the worst happens it is likely that no one will be prosecuted. It is always a bind (excuse the pun) to secure a load especially for short distances but the inconvenience of a load coming off or having to live with the fact that some...

YES. Most people coming to do a job grease the machine before leaving their yard so they can do any other jobs that turn up that need doing at the same time. Yes grease it or wear it out prematurely.

When you feel uncomfortable, that is the time to take stock, not when a meter tells you to. As you get more used to using the kit you will become amazed what it is capable of doing in the right hands but until then there is no shame in staying within your comfort zone. When you are nervous...

I think it depends on whether you enjoy doing the work your self, if you don't, hire some one in and save the hassle but if you do it is worth every penny.

To me a grade 8 is a pretty standard shear bolt, some times shear pins just want to be replaced. The fact that these holes are not lining up on either 180 degree suggests to me that they haven't been since new so putting the pin under more pressure (as it seems unlikely to be the pressure of...

I assume it is the under growth unlatching the pins so would it be better to fit a suitable nut and bolt for this job. The inconvenience of fitting them is offset to the damage that could be done to the PTO shaft etc..

I use an All American sharpener with an angle grinder, gets it right every time, then you need to get a Magna-Matic balancer to finish the job off. It is best to balance the new blades before you use them to, you will feel the difference, so will the machine.

I consider that the maximum power is designed to be achieved at PTO speed or thereabouts, plus the fact that you will have the most oil being pumped through the "veins" so that is where the engine is "happy"

No, grease coming out of the bushing is good, it tells you have fresh grease where it matters, and frequency depends on what type of job you are doing. Problem with front end loaders is that a lot of the time they are only doing bits and pieces, when you are doing a major job it is easy to start...

Watch the lynch pins disappear at a sale or any gathering, evaporate, maybe. You don't forget to put them on after you have gone to all the trouble hitching it up really.

Having a grapple on the bucket or forks will at least double the capability of the tractor ( in my opinion )

Bought our loader S/H repaired the indicator which didn't last long and managed without since. I find that if you drop the bucket to the ground and then lower the tip until you feel resistance it's not far off.

I have made a fire pit or ring of stumps before, that way you aren't in a hurry for them to burn because they are useful, guess what.

Started with 5 gallon cans with a hand pump all mounted on a small trailer, then 40 gallon drums with a hand pump then 3 years ago moved to a 300 gallon bowser with an electric pump which has paid for it's self because the fuel delivery is at a much better price.

I remember years ago being on the steerage hoe behind a tractor with a rear facing horizontal exhaust, my answer is definitely forwards.

It might be worth checking the bottom radiator hose, our 3000 was overheating at higher rev's and I found the hose was collapsing thus cutting off the water flow. Fitted a large spring in the hose and the problem has gone away. The fact that yours cools down quickly when ticking over points to...

The spool valves we have on our fords have a dump or float position so if that is selected and then operate the third function it removes the pressure, hopefully. What I would like to find is an inline dump valve to release the pressure with out having to crack the lines as we have to on our 360...

More power should allow you to do the same work easier and be kinder to the kit, but if you use the extra power to do extra work it will still be struggling. Be kind to the kit and it will repay you.

I would initially try adjusting the brakes up and checking the linkage to see if you can recover any sign of life before stripping the drums.

Have you checked that the plugs are getting power when operated, could just be the bulb.

Well built, user friendly and suspension which is a game changer.

Try a Ferris, Zero turn or Stander, for that acreage you deserve the best money can buy (you body will thank you ).

Have you tried a back pack blower or better still a tractor mounted leaf blower unit.