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This is how I approached that question for myself. Of course it all depends on your situation and how often you will use the machines. I need a tractor but wanted a backhoe because they are sort of like a swiss army knife tool. I don't use the backhoe often enough to justify having another...

I am curious as to how much of the information presented on these screens is actually useful or just gimmickry? The thought of being stuck due to some useless sensor just irritates me..!! Never mind the cost associated with it!!

Sounds to me as though you have a different issue in the rear end as well. If the other axle was sheered like this one you would not be able to move at all without the differential lock being engaged all the time. We would need more information as to what would happen when driver inputs were...

Sorry, can't help with sourcing parts but you may only need to repair one side. Because of the differential if one wheel spins the other stays stationary unless you engage the differential lock. If it were me I would fix the obvious broken side and then see if everything works as it should...

How did you get the loader to work after it wouldn't? Have you checked the condition of the hydraulic fluid? Is it milky in color or dirty? When you drain a little fluid out at the drain plug, do you notice any water? Water is heavier than hydraulic fluid and will therefor be at the bottom of...

You might want to provide us with some photos and more info of the way it is now. Much easier to diagnose over the internet that way!!

How many hours on the machine? When was the last hydraulic fluid and filter change? Have you checked the linkage for proper operation? Does the fluid look foamy or milky?

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/4103/referrer/navigation/pgId/6044579

One thing you might want to pay attention to is the maximum implement weight for a particular tractor model. I have an MX4700 and the manual states a lift capacity of 2,310 pounds at 24 inches beyond lift points. In the implement section it has a maximum implement weight of around 1,000 pounds...

If you do a search for aftermarket backhoes you will likely find some manufacturers that make backhoes for many different tractors. Woods and Woodmax are two that came up immediately. You would have to give them a call and see if they have or can make a sub-frame for your tractor. I hope this...

I believe you can get that information from the dealers and possibly also from TractorData.com. I do not believe there is a way to just plug in that info and get answers other than just google it. Personally I would not base the decision of my next tractor model on the size of the wheels so I...

Best is to determine gear ratio, horsepower rating and spin direction and find one that is a decent match. Hope this helps!!

I would call around. The dealer isn't always the best place to go. The dealer in my neck of the woods wants $5,000 to $6,000 CAN to do the job on an MX4700 open station. In my opinion that is way too much money for that job. Just my 2 cents.

Not sure but it looks like the seal may be installed backwards. There is a small channel towards the inside of the seal near the shaft. This channel is supposed to be on the oil side in order to produce some pressure against the shaft. Thanks for including some better pics!! Kind of hard to see...

Perhaps you could provide us with some better photos of the pto. Hard to tell what's going on there. Do you have Part #17 installed properly? It looks like it is supposed to retain the seal.

From what I can find on the internet it looks like your three point hitch is Category #1 with a lift capacity of 2,800 pounds. This does not necessarily mean that you can put an implement that heavy on your tractor. There are other factors that come into play to determine that. Best thing to do...

Does HST mean Hydraulic Shuttle Transmission or Hydrostatic Transmissio? These are very different to try and diagnose. So far I have only seen the 2545 with a hydraulic shuttle according to the internet. Have you checked hydraulic fluid level? Does the fluid look clean? Might want to drain a...

I believe using a bolt slightly undersized with a nylon lock nut for a retaining pin is the best way to go for retaining the cross pins. With it being slightly undersized it will allow the cross pin to rotate at the anchored end to allow some grease to work its way through the end. Without that...

I think it depends on how the pto is engaged. I used to have a john deere with a 2 stage clutch and a lever for the pto. You would have to forcefully jamb that lever into rotating gears to accidentally engage the pto while the engine is running. Not likely to happen when operating on my own...

It looks like it's been hit by something and cracked. Good that it's not leaking badly but I would be more concerned about the structural weakness which may cause that case to fail at some point. Have you tried finding a used one?

I usually keep my overflow reservoir around half full when cold. That way it has room for expansion but does not allow it to run dry when cooling down. Just my 2 cents.

Are the rear tires filled with liquid ballast? If so have you checked tire pressure? Sometimes the rim can spin inside the tire when there isn't enough pressure in the tires to force the bead against the rim. Just a thought..

I assume this is the backhoe on the B2601 that you listed in your profile? Wondering if it may have happened while traveling quickly over uneven ground with the pin installed? Just a thought.

It sure sounds like AI, wonder if it has had any hands-on experience..?? Welcome to the end of internet usefulness and the dumbing down of people, due to losing the ability to create intelligent content themselves..!!! Just sayin.......

Please post some photos!!

Perhaps not a justification for the large price difference but the two mowers you have mentioned have slightly different horsepower ratings. Landpride 15-40 hp and Woods 20-50 hp, thus the Woods is slightly heavier. Given that your tractor is almost 40 hp you are towards the maximum of the...

From the looks of the page from your manual, it seems that the oil has to travel through the hub gear assembly before it can come out at the level holes. If you are using gear oil, such as 80w90, this can take some time for it to make it through the smaller passage ways. Therefore I would...

Just to be clear "won't crank" means the engine is not turning over. It is important to use the correct terminology if you expect a diagnosis over the internet. When this condition happens try starting the tractor with the gas cap loose or off. If it starts then the tank vent is likely clogged...

We would need a bit more detail. Does the starter make any clicking noises? Have you checked all of the electrical connections and wiring? If the starter is not turning the engine over then it is likely an electrical / starter motor issue. If the starter is turning the engine over and the engine...

What is the condition of the universal joint? Has it been greased and is it moving freely? Is the pto shaft on the tractor getting hot without anything attached to it?

This should help as well.

Might be worthwhile to check the temperature with a digital thermometer at different points on the engine, radiator, water pump and thermostat just to see if there are big temperature differences. Also to see what the temperatures are at. I know this isn't completely conclusive but might give...

Thank you to all that have responded!! I will likely have to try a number of different things but I like the tool that chim suggested in post #18. Looks fairly easy to replicate the U holed washer using some 1/4 flat stock and a puller that I already have. I can always hit the puller center bolt...

Ah crap.. Was hoping you had found a way since our models are very close. I will likely try 5030's method again and see if I am successful. Thanks for the response!

Thanks for the response 5030! I have tried that method and have had no luck in removing. The metal splined part of the wheel is encapsulated in plastic and there is very little clearance to get a decent swing at the center of the wheel. I wound up damaging the plastic a little and backed off...

Hey scootr; was wondering if you ever figured out a good way to remove the steering wheel?

For those of you dealing with the corrosion issues that have HST I am curious as what the hydraulic coolers look like as well as the coolant radiators. Could you provide us with some photos? Also do you have any livestock? Could be from clearing manure or dust containing manure being kicked up...

I hear what you are saying rScotty, it makes sense and there is a good chance you are correct. I just tend to try and poke around a bit and see if there are some obvious signs to the issue at hand when trying to diagnose my equipment. I suppose it depends on how intermittent the problem is as...

Personally I would get the multimeter out and start testing circuits and inspecting connections before throwing parts at it. Just my 2 cents.

Like JWR said. Put a load on the pto while depressing the clutch all the way. Would have to be a higher load than the post hole digger that does not require the tractor to move. Examples would be pto driven wood chipper, generator, water pump, etc. Dealer may have the ability to load the pto...

Still waiting to hear if this machine is under warranty or not..??

Be careful of and keep an eye on the transmission case, they have been known to crack. Typically abusing the machine will cause this. Not exactly sure what causes the failure. If you do a search online you will likely find more info.

I believe you may have answered your own questions towards the end there. Sorry I don't know your particular model very well but is there a way to check hydraulic pressure at a test port somewhere on that machine?

Some more pictures from different angles for people not familiar with your particular machine would be helpful. Here is a link to the parts diagram at Messicks, this may also help: https://www.messicks.com/ku/85594

Not sure about other sources for schematics but best way is to have a look under the seat and around the linkages for wires that lead to safety switches. Schematics are handy for sure but often very model specific. Don't know how correct the one you have is..?

Seems to me you may have to elicit some help in order to raise the loader and open the hood to get at the issue. Also make sure you are jumping the right terminals on the starter. You have to energize the solenoid to push out the pinion so it engages with the flywheel. Do you have a hoist or a...

There are some considerations to take into account here and people will either be more concerned or less concerned about this. It has to do with how much crud is in those cylinders and lines. If your tractor is hydrostatic I would certainly want the cylinders and lines to be as clean as possible...

Personally I think the implement tyre would likely last longer when doing loader work. The ribs on the tri-rib would probably wear out pretty quickly. With regard to the steering effort I would increase rear ballast, as you already mentioned, and maybe see if you can put a narrower implement...

This may have been asked already and I missed it but is the tractor still under warranty?

Not sure what an implement tyre is. Tri rib is typically used when doing mostly ground engaging work like ploughing, discing or cultivating fields. Might not be the best for front end loader work because of the limited contact patch of the tyre on hard surfaces. An industrial tyre would be...

Typically if you move fast enough to switch out old filter with new you won't lose too much fluid. Trick is to have everything ready before taking the old on off. A trick to getting the old filters off is to take a box cutter blade and cut the paint between the filter and the block. Often Kubota...

Good question. It's been a while since I've had the cover off of the control valve but if memory serves me I don't believe the pressure relief valves are the same design from the outside. Internals might be similar though. I will try to take a photo of the control valve next time I'm up in the...

What type of mower do you have? Is it possible that something is dragging in the mechanism of the mower? Could be one or more spindles, gear box, belt pulley? Check to see if some of these items are getting abnormally hot. Just trying to brain storm here.

Thanks for the write-up!! Great information!!

Are there any safety switches not you may have missed that are not working properly? Seat, neutral, reverse gear selector are just some of the safety switches found on other machines.

Looking forward to see what you find out!!

The reason I asked was because I was fumbling around on Messicks website to look at the different spool valves of other backhoes and could not find the diagram you posted. Likely my fault and just somehow missed it. Getting old.....

Very interesting information here!! Trying to understand a little more. rScotty, is that diagram for the BT1200? Looks similar to the spool valve for the BH92 that I have. I have not encountered this swing issue as of yet but am interested in finding out more. Seems there have been some BH77...

Testing requires disconnecting and applying pressure to certain hydraulic circuits at very high pressures. Not something you want to try unless you are comfortable with that.

Sorry, hit the reply a little too soon. When I said rod seal I meant the piston seal at the end of the rod. There are ways to test that but not sure if you feel comfortable in doing that..?

Typically when the cylinder hits it's limit the pressure relief valve opens up and you can usually hear that and the sound of increased load on the pump. It could be the spool valve but it might also be the cylinder rod seal.

I don't know your particular machine very well but I do not believe there are position sensors for the backhoe's hydraulic cylinders. We would also need more information as to the behavior of the backhoe when this happens. What inputs were given when this happened, did the other cylinders still...

I would say stick to the manufacturers that have been around for many years, they tend to have the best parts support. Landpride is another one to consider.

It sounds to me as though you may not be able to access certain things without considerable work to diagnose the issue properly. Might be more cost effective to just use the rewiring you have already done and leave it at that..?

Have you checked the wiring for rodent or other damage?

Try starting the engine with the gas cap loosened or off and see if that helps. If it starts then the problem is likely the fuel tank vent. Just one place to start the diagnosis.

First and cheapest thing to look at would be wiring to make sure there is no damage and then have a look at the sending unit in the tank. You can remove it and test it with a multi tester. If it is not those than it might be the instrument cluster which will require it to be removed and taken to...

That depends on if the problem is with the fuel gauge in the in the instrument panel or the sending unit in the tank. The sending unit in the tank should be relatively easy to repair, the gauge not so easy and likely more expensive. You could remove the sending unit and test it with a multi...

You've bumped a thread without giving any further detail to JWR's post. What have you tried so far?

I do not know your machine very well but from the pictures it looks like this is the system: 1, you have the diesel engine which is behind the operators seat. 2, there is a hydraulic pump which is connected to the engine by a shaft and also likely behind the operators seat. 3, there are...

I would suggest cleaning and possibly rebuilding the carburetor. Today's ethanol blends in the fuel tend to corrode carburetors, especially if they sit for long periods of time. There are a number of fuel stabilizers on the market that can help reduce this effect when added to the fuel. Hope...

You might want to post some pictures of the spindles and someone here may be able to help identify them.

I believe 2012 machine might be a tier 4 interim engine which meant it may just have the PCV tube going back into the intake. It wasn't till 2014 and after that diesels above 25hp had to be tier 4 compliant. Don't quote me on that though.. Purely from memory.

A concrete pad is always nice for sure. It helps if the rest of the tractor can be level as well, not absolutely necessary but it does help. You mentioned some irregularities in the floor in your first post. You could likely get away with just having 3 smaller pads. I support the frame of the...

Yeah, I hear ya!.. Sorry I don't know your machine well enough to offer assistance in adjusting the pto. Though if you can get your hands on a shop service/manual I'm sure the info would be in there. Maybe someone else can chime in here. Failing that you may have to take it back.

Maybe a little more info on your situation is needed. When you say frame, does that mean with a roof? I would certainly think if you can do that it would be preferred. I just unhitch it onto 3 log ends that have been cut to about 10 inches high and there it sits in the corner of the shop.

It would help if you added the manufacturer and model of your mower. And a picture of where those cables go to. Not all of us know this particular model but if you give us some context and more detail of the type of brakes we can likely come up with some suggestions. Just trying to help.

When you say "PTO" do you mean engaging the mower blades? Pretty sure the blades are hydraulically driven buy hydraulic motors. I would say that there may be some sort of damage to the motor as Hay Dude has mentioned.

Have you tried calling the shop that did the work and ask them that question? A shop/service manual is a good piece of literature to have and well worth the money.

I believe using ground speed pto operation it is hard to get the balance right between forward speed and pto rotation. Much easier to get the balance right if you can vary the engine rpm and change gears when the grass/brush become thicker or more dense. Just my 2 cents.

I would think there are a few things to consider here. To begin with, how big is the brush cutter? The higher the ratio, the less power you have to cut the brush. I would think the 1:2.83 is likely too high, that is almost twice the speed of the original. It will be interesting to see what...

It's hard to tell from the photo but it looks like the drawbar frame is removable and that would allow the arms come closer together. A bit of a pain but a would that work..??

Not sure how those would work. I think it might be easier to extend the stabilizer links so that the arms come closer together as long as there are no clearance issues on the tractor. Something like this maybe...

Not sure what you mean? Have you got a picture of this "three point diaphragm pump"??

Seems to me, if I read this correctly, you are having to make a decision here as to either put up with the mess or perform the repair quickly. If you decide to do the repair I would personally leave the backhoe on the machine since it will be easier to work on and get the job done more quickly...

Have you checked the wiring for a short or see any mouse damage?

As seville009 said grease that pivot in multiple positions and it might migrate out. Or drill a hole in each of the inner 2 lobes that contact the pin and put grease nipples on them. Then you are certain to get grease on those surfaces. The outer 2 bars rotate with the pin so no need for grease...

Might also be what is called a "cold solder" ,which can happen during manufacturing, when there was not enough heat to transfer the solder to the other side of the connection and intermittently makes contact. Or perhaps that a connection has cracked on the circuit board. Still potentially...

Sounds like you've exhausted all avenues for original part which is why I suggested a transmission cooler that is normally used to cool transmissions on vehicles. You might have to get a mechanic and/or fabricator involved to see if it would work. Not sure if it would be cheaper though, would...

Just have to check and make sure insects don't clog up the filter opening but easy to replace.

Or maybe just bend it around the outside and use a wire twist tie or zip tie to keep it in place.

I have the MX4700 that I bought new which is basically the same machine as yours without the turbo. It came with the LA844 loader and SSQA from the dealer. I also don't believe there is much difference between the LA844 and the LA1065 so the SSQA is probably the same. If you need some...

Not sure what sort of room you have up front or what size the hydraulic lines are but wondering if you could find a transmission cooler that might work..?

Could you put a small piece of rolled up screen material in the end of the tube to prevent insects from getting in?

I believe this would only work if your top link is solid and not a swivel or swing type and only if your draft control is sensitive enough to engage the top link valve when the mower hits the ground. The tractors I have operated in the past this was not possible, mind you they are all older...

Not sure where Mahindra has that information. My manual for the MX4700 lists It is a Cat 1/2 three point hitch. It has a maximum lift of 2,870 pounds at lift points (which I believe is at the arm ends), 2,310 pounds at 2 feet behind lift points and then 1,000 pounds maximum for certain...

Though you might want to check what the maximum implement weight is for your tractor. This is not the same as maximum lift for 3 point hitch. I believe the above mower weighs 1,650 pounds.

First result on a search says it's cat #1 and #2. https://bushhog.com/multi_spindle/2208-multi-spindle-rotary-cutter/

Though I am not experiencing this issue, I would be curious to know as well since my model is the same minus the turbo. It is an old post though and Peacock has not been on this site since 2015, hopefully he will respond. Please keep us posted on what you find with yours!!

Glad you found something that works. Thanks for letting us know!!

I typically stick with conventional 80/90 weight GL5 on my equipment since most of my gear boxes and axles are older and I'm not sure how the synthetic oils might react with those old seals. Just my 2 cents.

You might be able to make a cap for it if you can't find one. What is the diameter of the valve? I could be wrong but, looks like a hydraulic pressure control valve on a distribution block...? Can you not just buy a new pressure control valve?

I was thinking the same as TractorTech. Since it seems to be heat related would point to a possible problem with the pump.

I would strongly suggest you get the workshop/service manual for your tractor. Not all tractors are the same when it comes to splitting and getting things to line up properly upon reassembly. Sorry I don't know your particular model well enough to give any guidance beyond that.

Thanks for letting us know what solved it!!

Have you checked the shift linkage to make sure that it is free of anything that could be impeding it's function? Is the linkage lubricated? Is the hydraulic fluid at it's correct level? Just checking the obvious first.

I completely understand, splitting a tractor is a big job!! I am sorry I cannot be of more help but I just don't know your model well enough. Hopefully someone else can chime in here.

Well I cannot say for certain that it is the pump but there is a good chance. That sludge does look quite dark. Did you pass a magnet through it to see if there were any metal shavings in it? I don't know about the brand of fluid you are using but the older machines were typically not that...

Are there any codes? Have you checked all of the safety switches when this condition happens?

I would still suspect a potential bad connection or possible blown fuse for no power at all. Mice chewing wires? Prior to it losing electrical power there might also be a possibility that the fuel line may be drawing air somewhere. Perhaps you could connect a new fuel line directly to a good...

That looks like some pretty sever damage. Wonder if the axle was low on fluid for some time..??

I would say that there is a good chance the somewhat new pump has failed. Especially if it was being starved of fluid due to sludge build up, that is never a good thing for a pump. Also evidence of poor pressure is another indicator.

Could be bad battery or connections. Is the engine turning over slowly? As engines age compression can drop and if you don't turn the engine over fast enough it may not be building enough pressure in the cylinder to create detonation. Just a thought.. What is the "primary bulb"?

Have you checked for evidence of mice? Chewed wires? Poor or corroded electrical connections?

Typically there should not be any pressure in the transmission housing or axle area where the wet brakes are usually located. I do not know your model well but if you include some pictures of where the leak is and also let us know if it is a geared or hst transmission, someone here might be able...

Fuel for tractor

Usually turf tires with the intended wheels tend to be a little wider. Other than that you could put wheel spacers on the hubs, fill the rear tires with ballast or put wheel weights on the rear wheels. These will all help to lower center of gravity. Hope this helps!!

Hydraulic bleed down is normal. Depends how quickly and what is acceptable. And yes, spools/control valves are becoming worse as far as quality is concerned. How long does it take yours to bleed down? How many inches in how many hours.

For what you are wanting to do I am reasonably certain HST will be the way to go. Direct gear is better for heavy duty ground engagement which is something you have not included in your list. Don't get me wrong, I do like gears and it is what I have, but today's HST is much better than before...

I didn't quite understand that either.. What I do understand is that you cannot get close to a fence or an obstructed edge when the mower is narrower than the tread, unless it's offset..

Personally I would always start with checking if the oils have water in them after sitting for long periods, especially if stored outside. Drain a little bit of oil and hydraulic fluid at the drain plugs and see what comes out. If you find water, bits of metal or other issues they will likely...

Sorry, not very familiar with your particular model. Does the steering box contain the control valve that governs the delivery of hydraulic fluid to the steering cylinder?

Good to know.. Thanks! Glad it wasn't worse!!

I'm assuming you mean that the 3 point hitch is stuck in the up position? And that it's not the control lever that is stuck.. Have you checked to make sure no one has fiddled with the lowering speed adjustment valve usually located somewhere near the seat? This is typically a turn valve, used to...

That is where the ball end sits inside a socket. Usually not worth fixing. Best to buy a replacement. Hope this helps!!

Wow.. Thanks for the update!! Any idea what might have caused that?

Harry has some good points! I had too much slop in the linkage of an old international that would no longer engage the control valve and would not allow hydraulic flow to the cylinder when it was needed. Good places to start!!

It would be helpful if we had some pictures of the type of power steering system it has. Not all of us are familiar with that particular model but some of us have had to repair steering systems that may be the same or similar to yours. Please always give as much information as possible to get...

Are you able to provide us with some more pictures where the hose enters the pump?

I use the same standing technique as scootr has mentioned on my MX. A mirror is a great idea!!.. Go low tech and never have to look for batteries, a charger, do a software update or wonder why the damn camera has lost electrical connection!!! Just my 2 cents..

I cannot tell from pictures on the internet but if it is a normal type hydraulic cylinder you might be able to get it rebuilt, depending on what's wrong with it. We would need more information in order to provide you with better solutions.

Have you had a look at any of the electrical connections to see if there is any corrosion that can be cleaned? Or sometimes the connections are a bit loose?

Don't quote me but I believe most simple tractors require about 20 hours to do a clutch as an average. Now that all depends on level of knowledge, experience and if you have the right tools to do it. Things can take a lot longer if you don't have someone helping you as well. Hope this helps!

First off I would look at flow rates for the hydraulics and see if they are a decent match. But when it comes to mounting you will likely encounter having to fabricate and/or modify the sub-frame in order to match the two together. This may wind up costing more than it's worth. You would need...

Sorry.. Forgot to mention the screen is in the transmission housing and is Part #5 in the schematics of the link above.

If the screen is clogged it will restrict flow and cause the issues you are having. Pay close attention as to what comes out of the screen, it will indicate other possible issues. Here is a link to where the screen is located. Hope this helps...

What Peter said, be sure to clean!! Also what was the condition of hydraulic fluid when you drained it? Golden/honey color.. Dark.. Milky..??

The only problem with Deere is being able to find the mower in tall grass....... Ha!

Something I usually try to consider is ride quality. Not sure how many hours you will be cutting but sitting in a skid steer for hours is no fun for me especially on rough terrain. I might opt for the tractor in this case but then again perhaps I don't have enough info, Just my 2 cents.

That's a really nice one!!! Pretty sure they don't make them like that anymore. Or they cost a fortune..

Here is a website depicting the parts of the rear axle and brakes and how they are put together. I hope this helps! https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/75863/referrer/navigation/pgId/240211423

Not sure if that tractor has a lift pump but might want to look into that as well..

I have a bit of haze on my wood stove glass as well, I think it might be from the heat, not sure though. I find the best way to clean the glass is with a slightly wet paper towel and dip it into the fine part of the ashes and then wipe that on the glass and scrub a little. Then wipe it clean...

Personally I would check a few other things first before fiddling with the governor. It might have fuel delivery issue. Have you replaced the fuel filter? Have you checked if you are getting enough fuel flow to the injector pump?

Better to lose a couple of nuts than to lose your marbles... Though often one can cause the other to happen....

Lookin good!!!

And this is the type of thing where chatgtp misses the mark. As a matter of fact, as this sort of thing progresses it will be more and more difficult to access information that is correct or for that matter even real. Anything can be faked now. Talk about manipulation.....!!! Sorry.. Don't mean...

Nice tractor!! I used to have one and really liked it. If you are trying to repair we would need to see some photos to assess the damage and see if it is repairable. If you want to replace, then a quick search found this...

I find it a bit perplexing that spraying herbicide is even allowed in a bird nesting habitat. Kind of goes against what the intention is...? Or am I missing something here....

GL4 is usually used in manual transmissions. I'm pretty sure that most front axles on tractors do not have soft metals in them which are usually found in transmissions with synchromesh.. Therefore it should be reasonable to assume that GL5 would be fine to use in the front axle. I am no expert...

Personally I would just change the fluids in question, then you know for sure what is in there and that it is the right stuff. Just my 2 cents.

Just trying to understand things a little better so please bear with me. I am assuming the tractor has a geared transmission and is not hydrostatic. Are you having trouble shifting the transmission into gear? Or, is the tractor not capable of moving forward in a higher gear due to some sort...

5030 has a good point. Could be clutch is going and maybe brakes need addressing as well. The brakes seem to be internal on your model and if there are pieces of it moving around in the transmission housing it might be causing problems with shifting. We would need more info. Have you checked...

Could also be worn out diaphragm on lift pump if it has one.

If you are talking about pulling the wheel off the MX please let us know if you were successful. I have tried to take mine off as well with no success. The video looks like a good idea but I think the pneumatic hammer would have to be set up a little differently, if I remember correctly, in...

Sorry to ask a perhaps obvious question but, do you have something connected to the couplers so that fluid can flow? If you have nothing connected then the fluid has no where to go when you actuate the valve.

Welcome to the forum! First off , have you checked the basics? Condition and level of hydraulic fluid? Replaced filters and cleaned the hydraulic screen if it has one? Does the power steering work? We need to know what has been done already in order to further the process of diagnosing.

Thanks for letting us know the outcome!!

I would say stay away from high range and stick with the first 4 gears low range especially initially until you get a feel for things. 1st gear high range might do but depending on terrain and density of grass might be a bit fast. This also depends on which tires you have, ag, industrial or...

How about just screwing a small piece of plywood over the hole..? 4 inch by 3 inch or bigger if need be. Has always worked for me to close off former electrical/plumbing holes.

As mentioned earlier check linkage first and also check adjustment. It is usually that the clutch material has rusted onto the flywheel. You can try to release it by moving the tractor to an open place where you have lots of room. With the tractor off, put it in 2nd or 3rd gear low range. Start...

If it is only for occasional use and seeing that you have a 55 horse power tractor with associated implements I would likely go with the bigger one (2767), which is what I have. Especially if I had to tackle something out in the field on an implement that may have a fair bit of rust on it. The...

I believe my manual states 1,000 pounds max for rear implements on MX4700, if I remember correctly. Would be worth a glance at your manual.

Oh that's right.. Most of the older ones are.. Their newer models have either water or air cooled. Deutz also made diesels for other applications that were water or oil cooled. My bad.. Guess we need more info..

Sorry. Can't help you with the sensor but a cooling fan almost always blows toward the motor. No sense in using warmed air from the motor to cool the radiator.

Unless Lucknow has some sort of extra load on that chain I would suspect you likely could replace with a normal pulley as long as it fits. So many other manufacturers have almost the exact same drive system and that is all they use.

I would not use the backhoe without the front end loader (FEL). When using the backhoe it is recommended to slightly raise the front wheels off the ground with the FEL to keep the loads off the front wheels, axle, pivots and associated linkages. Most backhoes connect to the frame to the FEL...

Not sure where you are located but Messicks has muffler listed at $608. Might also be able to have a muffler shop modify a new muffler to fit. Regarding fluid and filters I would definitely stick with Kubota filters but fluid depends on location and what temperature you are operating at.

It would help if we had some photos and more detail about when the issue happens. Under load? Is the blade hydraulic?

I do not know your particular model but there are lots of videos on youtube that walk you through cylinder rebuilds. Not all cylinders come apart the same way and some are easier than others. Seal kits are usually available through your dealer. Also worth considering is to remove the cylinder...

I believe the 300CX is the loader model and not the model of the tractor. It would help if we had the tractor model. With almost 13 volts at the battery it would seem that the alternator is working. How old is the battery? Have you checked condition of wiring and contact points?

The only thing that would really concern me is getting contamination into my hydraulic fluid. I would try and get it cheap enough that it would still be a good deal even if I had to replace the lines and the cylinder. Then I would take the lines off and inspect and flush. Then pour some...

According to tractor data pto is 33 hp. Not sure if that is correct or not though.

Sorry to hear it is not resolved yet. Tough call on whether to split and fix. Depends on how much it will cost versus getting another machine to do what you have in mind. Thank you for keeping us posted and in the loop!!

You might also want to check tire pressures. The rim/wheel might be slipping on the tire bead.

Could you perhaps show us some pictures and maybe someone can recognize something similar they may have worked on before? Does this tractor have a lift pump? Often a faulty mechanical lift pump will also allow fuel into the engine oil.

You could try and grind 2 flat spots on the stripped thread to be able to get a wrench or vice grips on there. Or maybe weld a nut on the end to get a ratchet on to hold against the other nut.. Just a couple of suggestions. Perhaps someone else here can also chime in with more. Hope this helps!!

I believe what you are referring to are possibly friction plates to provide resistance to the position control lever to prevent the lever from moving on it's own due vibration and what have you. This would very likely not have anything to do with your problem. Others here have mentioned a couple...

Ha.. Had not heard that one before. Thanks for clarifying!

Definitely flush all the old fuel out and clean everything. Start again with fresh fuel and purge the lines going to the injectors. Hopefully all will run well. If not then you might have to pull the injectors and get them cleaned or replaced.

Hey RUSTABOUT, trying to understand the part about "lick your calf over again"..?? Is this an old saying of some sort or some kind of code for something?? Haha

You are definitely on the right track. I would have the injectors checked and cleaned or replaced as necessary. I would also make sure there is no water in the tank. Hopefully you also replaced the engine oil and inspected the condition of the hydraulic fluid as precautionary measures.

Which model is that? Let us know how it turns out.

Your links do not seem to be working.

Always pays to be cautious so I would go easy and see what happens.

Thanks for letting us know!!

What does the hydraulic fluid look like, is it milky in color or darker than it should be? Is the fluid over full?

You could also try a bottle jack, giving some pressure from the bottom while hammering.

The way I understand it is that you wish to remove the bracket that the boom and cylinder are attached to. If that is the case then it is a little hard to tell from here but is there a removable bushing at the bottom swivel that is held in place by some bolts? According to the parts manual I do...

I don't have much experience with the electronics on these newer tractors but from what you have said it may not be the hydraulics. Older engines have mechanical governors that increase fuel when there is a load put on the engine. I believe newer (tier 4) engines use electronics to govern. Might...

Could it be one of the glow plugs has failed? Maybe one of the cylinders is just not firing right away in the cold? Just a thought.

How about reversing a rear blade (if you have one) and smoothing out that way. I have done that many times. Usually a lot less dusty as well. Just a thought.

Perhaps you could provide us with some photos and a little more detail. I am having a hard time understanding exactly what it is you are trying to do and what has failed.

Happy to be of help. Hope it all goes well!!

Glad you found what the issue was! And thanks for letting us know what it was!! I would certainly be replacing the filter housing as well or at least finding a way to secure that fitting. Wouldn't want to be out doing work and have that thing come loose and dump fuel all over the place.

There are a number of different ways to do this but here is a video of the principal and you can figure out how fix one side and use hydraulics to realign the other side. Hope this helps!!

Might be easier and maybe even cheaper just to replace the tank..?? Here is a link for a new tank for $144. Just a thought. https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/fuel-tank-new-ford-c5nn9002ac-e3nn9002ab-103893.html

Might I suggest getting the cylinders resealed rather than replacing the whole cylinder? There are shops that do this sort of thing.

A few photos would certainly help..

There should be a test port. Hopefully you get the shop manual soon. Please let us know what you find so we can all learn from this!!