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Thank you. I will be in contact.

How much are they, and are they in stock? I didn't see them on your site.

This is getting very frustrating. I have been looking for 2 years to no avail. At this point I may have to consider another tractor.

Oh WOW! How is that even possible?

Are you saying they went belly up? Their website is still active.

I'm not picking on anybody here, but what I find comical is people complaining about high prices, then paying them. YOU are the ones causing the high prices. If people went on a buyers' strike, the high prices would not be possible. I did my part. I just bought a vehicle for 30% off msrp. STOP...

Hysteria much? A tow vehicle can easily handle a trailer 3x its weight if it has a trailer brake controller. The new diesel pickups are rated for trailers with a gvw over 4x their weight, and that's at highway speeds.

I move a lot of trailers around with my 31hp John Deere. The drawbar capacity is the limiting factor, it seems. I can easily move trailers in the 7,500 GVW range, though I suspect I'm over my drawbar capacity at that point. Steep slopes and slippery terrain, however? No way. I am always in 4wd...

I know that the JD 7 backhoe fits, but they don't make it anymore. Are there any newer model backhoes that will fit? This fitment stuff is difficult to find info on. TY in advance.

I second this. I have an Echo and I love it.

We don't have free-market capitalism, we have crony capitalism. That's the problem.

The parts prices for JD are so absurd that I will buy a Kubota for my next tractor.

I called a dealer today and was quoted $14,000 for the whole thing. He basically told me it's not worth it.

Mind sharing what you paid? I have the same tractor with 500 hours and ag tires, and am considering selling it and buying something with a backhoe.

Thank you. My tractor with loader is a little over 3,000 lbs, which is probably going to render the stump bucket almost useless in my rocky earth location. Been having a hard time locating a JD 7 backhoe. I found that the Woods BH75 is compatible, but I have to buy a subframe and hydraulics...

I have been looking for a compatible backhoe for my JD790 to no avail. Only twice have I seen them come up on Craigslist and they were both gone quicker than I could ever get to them. I want the ability to dig, so have noticed these stump buckets as digging tools. They even have some which claim...

Thank you for all the replies. After calling every tractor dealer I could find, I ended up locating a 6' back blade with pivot, offset and tilt from a small tractor dealer 175 miles away. I drove there yesterday and got home last night. That's about as much as I want to drive for things anymore...

I found a 7 footer. I wonder if it would be worth it to buy it and use a torch to cut off the ends.

Unfortunately I do not have a Facebook account to do that.

Thank you. I was quoted freight of $1,000 from a JD dealer to move one 800 miles.

Uh, no. I have been calling every dealer within driving range and have found zero, hence my post.

True. I just know that freight prices went stupid high, so shipping a solid steel implement of essentially 400 lbs with the pallet, that is hanging off the side because of its 6' length, seems like it could get into ludicrous territory. I am trying to find something I can go pick up with my...

I am outside of their free shipping radius. I don't even want to know how much it would be for LTL to the west coast.

I am looking for a rear blade and am having tremendous difficulty finding anything out west that is both available and what I need. I am looking for a 6' blade which has angle, offset and tilt, and is not the super cheapo lightweight type. They seem to be in the 325 to 390 lb range. Tractor...

Not anymore. I believe prices have peaked. Just as inventories of tractors and vehicles are building, so are used items for sale. I believe we will be seeing the largest sale in history by the time the next recession gets rolling. People went nuts spending, and they're going to put it up for...

I had a 4wd Yanmar for over 5 years and loved it. I think it was a late 70s/early 80s grey market model. I was able to get every part I ever needed, including a new radiator, etc. I think it was 21 or 22 hp, but that little 2 cylinder did just about the same level of work as my 3 cylinder JD790...

"COVID-19" didn't cause anything, the government and the FED did. Get your facts straight. And your new account with 1 whole post indicates you are a political troll.

Prices have become completely detached from economic realities. Everything has turned into a luxury reserved for the top 10%. It's not a sustainable economic model, and Tesla is starting to eat the lunch of the domestic manufacturers. They still have higher margins after lowering prices. GREED...

"You will own nothing and be happy" isn't just a catch phrase, it's the intention of the WEF and their puppet governments. Read Agenda 21 and Agenda 2030. Lots of nasty little surprises in store for people. And Klaus Schwab and the WEF weren't elected to do spit, yet they have control of...

I have edited the title to confirm that it is indeed a Model 70. I was in a hurry when I made the thread and left off a zero.

I will get that, but I can't afford a situation where I remove the cylinder to rebuild it and then run into problems and the tractor and loader are inop. I can buy 2 brand new cylinders for less than $400. I'd rather just install those and then rebuild the other when I have time.

I had talked about this on another thread, but wanted to create a thread about it. As the title says, the cylinder at the bucket is leaking - "passenger" side, hehe. Initially I called a local hydraulics shop and they were backed up and told me they didn't have a seal kit for it. I went ahead...

I just want a decently priced used vehicle with low miles. I say that to myself every time I leave the grocery store these days, or the fuel station. Things have gone bananas.

I'm not really sure what the business model is that makes a 1 3/4" bore hydraulic cylinder of less than 24" $1,400, but it sure isn't something I'm interested in - EVER. I thank the person who suggested Surplus Center, because I can upgrade both bucket cylinders to a 2" bore for $225 a piece...

I dunno, I'll have to look around. I haven't even checked. I have a little bit of experience with hydraulic cylinders, though, having replaced one on my dump trailer. It's giant. I upgraded to a larger cylinder than what the factory provided on the trailer. This cylinder makes my JD loader...

I felt like their 3 hours was a bit much for a professional. I've watched a couple videos and there's nothing technical about it that I cannot handle myself. But the equipment I have to use is a bit different than a shop. I'll have to use a vise, maybe a come along, etc.

If I can buy an exact sized replacement for less money than it costs to have a professional install a seal kit, I'm buying the replacement.

The shop quoted me 3 hours for a cylinder rebuild.

I tried that, and the shop told me they didn't have a seal kit. That's why I ended up buying the JD brand. Then I called them back and asked if they'd rebuild it since I bought the kit. They want $400 labor. I called another hydraulics shop and their minimum is $800. I will do it myself for...

I had a bit of sticker shock on parts prices recently. A seal kit for my FEL cylinder was $140 at the local dealer. A new JD cylinder is running close to $1,400. I mean, seriously? I see aftermarket ones with the same bore and stroke selling for $220 new. I probably should have seen if I could...

This just started happening the very last time I used it for the season. Any ideas on what could be causing this? The tractor only has 500 hours.

Just thought I'd update the post. The trip went great. The tractor seemed to be in a good spot in the trailer and it handled very well.

If you're hauling it from your driveway on flat surface streets at 25 or less for a couple miles? Probably. Anything else? No way in hell I'd do that. It is grossly over the capacity of that truck.

I have a bunch of tools, a work bench, supplies, etc. forward of the tractor. I went into a deep dive on all of this and found some great information right on this site. The rule of thumb seems to be that the center of gravity of the tractor is right around the steering wheel area, not taking...

Through a bit of research I found this to be true. There is a serious weight bias towards the rear for traction, which means I was really off in my guestimation of where the COG was. I cannot back the tractor into the trailer for a couple of reasons, most importantly that I have like 1/4"...

For me it's just easiest to know the center of gravity of the tractor in order to effectively load the trailer. Seems ok now but for some reason I am wondering if it needs to be forward a little more. It's not that my truck can't handle it, it's just that I don't like to have a load too far to...

I don't have a scale, so I think the best thing for me to do is just hitch it up and head to a scale. I already know the tare weight of my truck is 7,840, so if I pull onto the scale without letting the trailer tires on, get a weight, then pull onto the scale to get the gross, then subtract the...

The rear tires are not loaded. I was just wondering about the center of gravity for the tractor.

Because that was not my question. I have a 4wd Ram 3500 dually diesel pickup.

I will be hauling my JD 790 close to 2,000 miles inside my enclosed trailer. I am unable to pull it all the way forward because I have stuff in the front area. My question is where the center of gravity, front to rear, of the tractor with FEL would roughly be. With the FEL and the engine up...

I have decided this is the best option. At 5k rating per, there is no way this would impair the structural integrity. I am happy with this sort of modification, and don't feel it would devalue the tractor. One problem is that it looks like the 2x3 folds the wrong direction, so I'd have to buy a...

For some reason I suspect the globalist cabal who are pushing EVs on everybody won't be giving up their private jets which pollute more than any 4 wheeled vehicle on earth, by far.

I would not buy an EV right now, but a hybrid may pique my interest. I know that I am out of the new diesel truck market. The prices went stupid, and with the war on oil the investment seems to be bad. My old but clean and trusty Cummins powered Dodge should last me the rest of my life.

My JD 790 rates the max drawbar hitch weight at 675 lbs. I want to move a small travel trailer around a flat driveway but am unable to weigh the tongue. From everything I can find, the travel trailer tongue weight should be between 600 and 700 pounds per the manufacturer. Is there some leeway...

I want to take the time to thank each and every one of you for commenting. I know I am not alone in my frustration with the height of this thing as it has caused issues for so many people, evidenced by the number of posts about people modifying them, and the fact that the industry finally...

Thank you for the picture. What I don't understand is what is holding the top to the bottom. There is something hidden that I cannot see.

I know nothing about the construction of your trailer to offer any insight. My trailer is a 7x16. It has the "tall roof" as well. The problem is the door header insofar as ROPS is concerned. There is no issue at all with the ramp bending on mine. It is heavy duty, and my trailer frame is 6"...

Here is a picture of mine. It is 6 bolts each side for a total of 12.

If I was working on flat ground, I would do that in a heartbeat. Unfortunately I am on crazy slopes quite frequently. I want it for my own safety, which is why I am looking for a folding system.

As mentioned, I cut a piece of graph paper to scale using the measurements of the wheelbase and the maximum height of the ROPS. I then rotated my scale model on another piece of graph paper watching where the ROPS intersected with the header height on the trailer. As mentioned, the front tires...

So this won't work. I cut a piece of paper to scale for the tractor, taking the wheelbase and height of the ROPS into consideration. The front wheels would have to be at least 2 feet off the ground for it to work.

This is interesting. I need to figure out how to calculate this on paper.

Mine does not come off quickly at all. It's a major PITA. In fact, even taking off the crossbar took time because of all the threadlock and the fact that the steel bars are sprung. To get it back in I had to spread them apart, which sucked. I'm looking for a workable solution where I don't...

I have a welder but I don't consider myself a welder. I could do it, but I don't have the time or inclination, and it would devalue the tractor and open up a can of worms if I ever sold it. I had a long talk with the local JD dealer and JD themselves. Nobody wants to even touch the subject, and...

I agree. That is a perfect solution for me. I can remove and store the factory one, and if I ever sell it I can either swap and sell the folding or just send them both along. The replacement green one is over $2,000 now, which seems ridiculous.

Thank you. So is your Cub Cadet the same Yanmar tractor as mine, just painted a different color?

I looked there but they are dealers and the prices seem a bit high. I'm looking more for a reasonable private party price.

Kind of. I may just sell it for something with a folding ROPS. It's looking like the best solution.

Hi. I just recently purchased a beautiful JD 790 4x4. It has a little over 400 hours. What would be the asking price for such tractor? I love the tractor but the non-folding ROPS has already become a major hassle for me, so much so that I am considering just selling it off for something with a...

Another option is to sell this tractor and buy one with the folding ROPS. This thing is mint, but I want something that I can haul inside my trailer. I love the tractor but the lack of a folding ROPS is a major hassle in my opinion. My old Yanmar didn't even have ROPS and was easy to deal with.

I always have, too. But in this case I want it inside of my trailer, hence why I posted in the first place. If somebody said they were having trouble clearing the door to their garage, a comment of "well I just park mine in a pole barn" wouldn't really be helpful, would it?

I have called John Deere and all they offer is the replacement non-folding. Any information you could provide on your folding system would be greatly appreciated.

This is the last resort.

Gee, ya' think? C'mon, this isn't about "how do I strap a tractor down?" for crying out loud. I've been hauling trailers and equipment for almost 35 years. I'm trying to figure a way to not alter the ROPS at all, but haul and store my tractor INSIDE my enclosed trailer. I need to leave it in...

Yes, I've been looking for a folding ROPS to swap out but didn't see one for the JD790.

Hahaha. No, I'm not cutting the floor out of my expensive enclosed trailer. And yeah, I know all about the 4 wheel drive thing.

I recently bought a used John Deere 790. The tires were filled with liquid which the owner said was water. I emptied some of it and it indeed looks like dirty water. To me this would ruin the rims. What should I do?

I have a JD 790 I recently purchased. The ROPS is 3-4 inches too tall to clear the header on my enclosed trailer. In order to even fit, I took the ROPS crossbar off and had to try to flatten the tires to get it into the trailer. That worked, but getting it out turned out to be a nightmare. For...

This made me laugh out loud. It seems like every market has decoupled from reality. A return to sanity would be welcome, in my opinion.

I just bought a 790 with 400 hours and the thing barely even has a scratch on it. It's got a loader. What would you think the retail value would be? The only reason I ask is part of me wants an HST transmission, so may sell/trade up for something different.

I was a bit bummed this 790 didn't have an HST trans, but the price was right so I bought it anyway. My next tractor will definitely be an HST. I'll add her picture here, too:

The same thing would happen on my old Yanmar 4x4. Not surprising this is basically a Yanmar, too. Oh well, I got a lot of good use out of the tractor despite that flaw.

I have been looking at blades, and it appears they're really starting to cheap out on the steel. The weight is really low on some of these things and they'd probably bend if you looked at them cross-eyed.

I understand that, and I don't want to do any modifications which would undermine the integrity. But it's all just steel, so no special sauce. The newer ones have folding ROPS. If they're strong enough, this would be plenty strong enough. Another idea is to grab an extra set of smaller tires...

Something else I've been thinking about - the ROPS is about 4" too tall to fit into my enclosed trailer. I had to remove the top bar and let all the air out of the tires to clear the door. I'm thinking of cutting the steel and then installing a heavy sleeve inside where I can remove half of it...

That's sad.

Ain't that the truth. I have spent a fortune on OEM Honda parts for my motorcycle. The prices are ludicrous.

I just purchased a beautiful JD 790 4x4. The tractor only has about 400 hours and came with a loader but no other attachments. I first want a back blade as I am going to be grading driveways. I was just assuming I should buy a 5' size since it is just wider than the rear wheels. But would 6' be...

Thank you for the replies. It looks like blades are hard to come by right now. I may have to buy a cheap one just to get by this year. I was looking at 5' blades, but should I consider 6'?

I found this tractor by accident from somebody I do work for occasionally, and it is in almost perfect condition with roughly 400 hours, and the price was very good. It runs perfectly. I will use the tractor for grading driveways, leveling land and moving gravel. I want to find a good back...

I have shared in the past that my tractor smokes a bit. I get both the typical black diesel smoke (unburned fuel) but also a slight burning oil smell. The engine has no problem starting so I feel the compression is fine, and it runs really well. That said, I ran it for several hours yesterday...

Hi, all. Haven't been here in a while as the old gal had been treating me well over the course of the past year or so. We had a cold snap before Christmas, and before leaving town I went to start her to move to a safe location (theft prevention) when she would not start. I ended up draining the...

Hi all, I'm thinking of upgrading to a newer tractor with a backhoe attachment, etc. Something newer with ROPS, etc. My Yanmar 1700D runs very well, has a new radiator, hoses, battery, etc. I'm not sure what to ask. It could use paint, and is older from the late 70's. Not sure if I should sell...

I am clearing a few acres of my property which is heavy scotch broom and blackberries. I have been as careful as possible, but things sometimes happen. A large stick came up under the tractor at some point, unbeknownst to me, and snapped the linkage bolt for the right rear brake, and tore out...

I've just about cleared close to 2 acres of nasty scotch broom and blackberries. It was a good 15' tall in many areas, and dense. It has been an epic battle, but the little Yanmar and I have just about won. No flat tires yet, knock on wood, and only a few close calls with sticks coming up and...

I see my folly now. I should have just cut all the rafters even though they didn't fit perfect to the ridge, then adjusted the ridge to all the rafters at the end. I'll know next time, but the next thing I build will have engineered rafters. :) Here are a few pics.

I'm pretty good at figuring things out, but something's got me confounded on my well pump house I'm building. The seat cut or birdsmouth on my common rafters- I've figured out that my total rafter length is 7'2 3/4" (building is exactly 12' 1 1/8" wide outside to outside). I know I need to...

I have an intermittent coolant leak on my tractor. I first noticed a few small drips of coolant on the ground underneath when parked which prompted me to look where it was coming from. I could not locate the source. Then yesterday, while I was running it, I noticed coolant spraying from the left...

Well, not good. I just blew, and I mean BLEW my left front tire! Man, this stinks. I did notice a "Made in China" logo on the side. This tire will have to be replaced as I doubt any tire place will deal with it. The rim is bent, too. I happened to run over a stick which punctured it. Are there...

Just an update that I got the tube fixed, and had to take the wheel to a small independent shop to air it up. It does need to be replaced. There's a blowout the size of a silver dollar in the center of the tread, and the rubber is rotten. I am going to replace both rears fairly soon. I wouldn't...

I have put less than 10 hours on my new to me Yanmar 1700D, and I now have a flat right rear tire. The tires are badly cracked and Les Schwab said they will not repair it if the tire is in poor condition. I cannot get any tires locally, and I need to use this tractor right now. The size is odd...

I am worried because my tractor is sitting outside in heavy rains, and the exhaust is not covered. I am out of state right now, and cannot get back to it for a week or so. It will ultimately be stored under cover, but the rains came early and heavy. There has been nearly 3 inches of rain. What...

Hi everybody. I recently purchased a Yanmar 1700D for my 4 acre property, and I just bought a brand new Taylor-Pittsburgh 4' rotary cutter for it. Of the 4 acres, probably 2 1/2 to 3 acres is scotch broom and blackberries with the rest being larger fir trees and such. The brush is as tall as 10...

I thought I'd start a thread about my search for a rotary cutter. I just purchased a Yanmar 1700D, and while it came with a loader and back blade, it did not come with a cutter. I have been searching Craigslist for used ones, and they are rare as hens teeth, and expensive. Most are of the 5' or...

I just purchased my 1700D, and am not sure what size brush cutter I can run (4'?) and also if there are any particular brands which fit or if they are all interchangeable. Thanks!

I just picked her up yesterday. I am really anxious to learn a little more about her. I cannot find a whole lot of information on this model. I think it's a 2 cylinder diesel, somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 hp.

Here she is.

Hi all. I have been reading here quite a bit, and it seems the more I learn, the more overwhelmed I have become. I have been searching Craigslist in a 250 mile radius to see what is available. I have 4 acres of land. A little about what I intend to use tractor for: Mowing brush and grasses...