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I used a 50/50 mix of powdered sugar and Boraxo sprinkled on the hill closest to our house… the sugar attracts the workers who then carry the Boraxo gut-bomb down to the queen… that mound was inactive within a week… I like the cheap/effective paradigm…

On a related note… are those R-pins the only thing keeping the turnbuckle from rotating? Looks like a waaaay simpler (and easier to use) method… trying to get a big ol’ wrench on my stabilizer bars is getting old…

Starting an engine once takes quite a bit of juice… starting it a couple times without giving the alternator time to recharge the battery may have drained it… have you tried jump starting?

On our property we have several of these hills… this one is roughly 24” diameter/ 10-12” tall… That pic is kind of an optical illusion… looks sunk on top… it’s not… I’m not sure what kind of ants they are, I’m not an entomologist… and it’s really hard to photograph a particular ant… basically...

The local power company is replacing the questionable poles in our area. Like any self-respecting cheapskate I went over and asked what their plans are for the ones they cut down. "How many do ya want?" was the answer. I'm thinking of creating a retaining wall around our small greenhouse for...

Dang! That’s exactly the one I’ve narrowed my selection down to…👍🏻 Maybe it’s time to pull the trigger…

I’m looking to purchase a bench top ultrasonic cleaner… in the 6 - 10 liter range… obviously for smaller parts… (carbs, hand tools, etc.)… Cost - $150 - $200 Lots of options… the digital ones are slightly higher priced than a comparable analog model (physical dials)… are there big differences...

I can’t believe I read a whole “electrics” thread… this is the only part I understood…

Google and the rest of the internet are at odds… Seems Craigslist list defines “Vintage” items as anything older than Windows 10, a non-working shell of its former self, preferably with paint/parts missing and listed at, minimum, twice the price of the particular item when new on a cost adjusted...

I retired a little over a year ago from a construction company here in Montana (I drove a concrete truck)... I stopped by the shop the other day just to say hi and pick their brains on this subject, they're the ones who have to repair the things us "grunts" tear up... their unanimous choice, all...

Seems most of you guys with the Piranha tout its ability to grub roots, sever saplings and deal with brush and trees...some giving kudos to its digging in hard dirt. OTOH, the few tooth bucket responses tend to lean towards it's potential in rocky soil... Am I reading between the lines accurately?

I did exactly that last summer as I had quite a few branches/stumps to dispose of… fortunately I had some help… Our “soil” is predominantly shale with just enough dirt mixed in to call it soil…🙄 Used the rippers on the BB to dig, however, when the “scoop” part came along the bucket edge...

I hadn’t thought of that… thanks…

I use the smooth edge to get mud off concrete surfaces… 1/4 mile dirt road leading to our house… during the wet months we track quite a bit of mud onto the concrete I used one of these for several years… then bought the tractor… a couple springs back I had just finished dressing the drive with...

Well, there’s the up-front cost… roughly $550-$600 difference delivered… I’d rather leave that point out of the conversation for now… There are times when I need to dig small, rather shallow holes… other operations require a smooth edge bucket… so I need teeth… and I don’t need teeth… Then...

Another low-cost option if you’re just looking to power your transfer pump (I’m with Fuddy, connect directly to your tractor battery to jump start)… I wired one of these to my transfer pump, mine runs off my Ridgid 18v power tool battery (they’re available for many different battery brands)…...

For a comedic explanation check out Clarkson’s Farm available on Prime.

To your question regarding: Kioti dealer selling multiple brands vs JD being a dedicated dealer…Are you comfortable with all your eggs in one basket? Granted JD has been around for more than a few years but anything can happen… same kinda thing with Kioti, they have been around for years...

I inherited my fathers Korean War era can and spout… each and every spring I remember my dad lubricating the nozzle… waaay back when it was 3-in-1 oil… later years came the spray lubricants… I’m currently using Deep Creep… it’s amazing how much more flexible the nozzle is after application…...

Garden State… Zach Braff wrote, directed and stars in his first movie… it’s not for everyone, lots of dry humor, sight gags and classic faux pas (Amway sales anyone?)… I find it entertaining enough that it’s on our list of movies we watch “frequently” (every one or two years)… I bought this...

It looked to me 8 is a friction ring… 13 is a spring, 14 is a shoulder bolt… together they work on 5 to keep the position control where the operator desires… the “tab” show coming out the bottom of 5 is the piece I extended… all of this is rather hidden behind the fender so it’s difficult to get...

I found time to look at the 3 point linkage today and decided on a course of action... The red-tipped arrow is the linkage between the position control and the hydraulic actuator... the yellow arrow is part of the actuator... This is the actuator with the linkage disconnected... I put the...

The lift arms react the same whether loaded with an implement or “empty”…

Funny you should say that… I was looking at the connecting link today (no adjustment) but I am considering bodging something together akin to a turnbuckle… Don’t want to modify the original link in case this “experiment” doesn’t yield the desired results… I’ll get some pics as I go along…

Been out inspecting the 3 point… Unfortunately the only thing that moves when the lever is moved is a connecting link (position lever to shaft), the shaft (which rotates and disappears into the rear casting) and the lift arms…

Correct… I have draft on my MF135, so I know what that does… no draft on the Kioti… I’m not familiar with a “position rod”… is that something exterior on my tractor? If so, how do I identify it? Better still, how do I adjust it? Thanks

My tractors 3 point lever is labeled 0 - 10… with 10 being fully raised… Problem is, between 0 and 7 nothing happens out back… so 7 thru 10 is the range that raises/lowers the implements… rather abruptly… I’ve watched the lift arms without anything attached… nothing happens… so it’s not the...

One more contender? Have you looked at the RE Himalayan? I haven’t ridden one, however, usually those who have come away pleasantly surprised… https://www.advrider.com/2024-royal-enfield-himalayan-450/

I picked these brochures up from Harry’s Motors in Denver… in the early eighties IIRC… back when all I could do was lust after just about every bike in the showroom…

Looking at the RM43 website they suggest mixing 7.4oz in up to 10 gallons of water (1 to 10 is their recommend)… this will treat 1000 sq ft. Plan is to start with 10 gal. and spray the contained area in front of the garage… hopefully this dilution will get it far enough into the soil to be...

After much reading (and quite a bit of handwringing) I’ve decided to give the RM43 a try this year… I’ll report on my findings … Thanks for sharing your knowledge, thoughts and experiences

This is the best pic I have when we moved into our home 7 years back... there is some growth in the drive but it was manageable... I picture was taken today, after I mowed as close to the ground as I dare (don't wanna screw up Julie's zero turn) There are other areas around our property...

Actually they have ‘em… a small spot mirror at the top of the mirror stack… let’s you see if’n yer raising the box into something or… if you can get a driver to actually use their mirrors… see if the bed is raised… heck, the trucks at work have big lights on the dash which come on anytime...

That was a running joke with our 14 year old Weim… any time we were out on the property, “Colt” would wander the 1/4 mile down our driveway and, invariably, lift his leg on the latch-side gate post… Julie an I would look at each other then say “This is my post!” Sure do miss the old guy…

:p:D:LOL::ROFLMAO:

The two large companies I drove mixer for (Lafarge and Martin Marietta) had very comprehensive safety programs… one item both stressed was the “accident likelihood envelope”… which included new operators (1 to 3 years experience… no surprise there) and veteran drivers (over 20 years)…...

I also feel like Paul Sheldon from Misery… ‘cept instead of Paul’s missing “n”… I’m having a heck of a time figuring how I’m gonna get to “d” and “e” on my QWERTY keyboard…

I'll let Julie drive... then I can "fly the flag" out the passenger window...😉

the damaged part is gone… hopefully the stub has good circulation… I guess I’ll just wait and see

Hmmmm… maybe I’ll contact these people… offer them my severed digit in exchange… :ROFLMAO:

One more pic… after the ER sewed the hamburger together…

Looks like your doc used a leftover part from his thanksgiving turkey… “hey if it holds the birds legs together it should keep this gentlemans finger in place”

Well… now I don’t feel quite so stupid… :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

I’ll start with the “easy” one… I’ll just put in the thumbnail view… clic if’n ya wanna… there’s more where this came from…

Oooh... pictures... you guys want pictures?!? Do you have a strong constitution?

My old (second-hand) saw doesn’t have a guard, or a splitter… the only thing protruding out the top is the blade (and the fence)

I was ripping a 2x4 when the accident occurred… Have you ripped something as narrow? Care to share any tips? (I’m not sure how to balance my circular saw on it)

I don’t do a lot of woodworking… just small things around the house… Right now the plan is to see what’s possible with my circular saw/demolition saw/jig saw… lots of good ideas available for: “do i really need a table saw”?

I recently retired from a rewarding driving career… the most memorable being the last 25 years as a mixer jockey (concrete truck driver)… Getting ready for retirement I spent considerable time researching “How not to get bored”… especially during the typically frigid Montana winters (not...

What is the correct position for a FEL to get grease in The pressure side? Setting the bucket on the ground, then moving the joystick through all its various positions (engine off) to relieve pressure? I haven’t considered this… I have been using the hydraulics to get the zerks up to...

It's the design of the Crosswing... in relation to the old hitch, the new one places the "jaws" (there are no jaws on the Crosswing) 5" aft... which moves the pin 5" further away from the truck cab... not a big deal in my situation as I'm towing with a long-bed... The tow rating on the...

I also used my forks to remove/install my old hitch… at home.. I just can’t figure a way to tow both my FW and my tractor from state-to-state so I can have an open truck bed while camping… Sometimes there are other considerations….

When I first saw the aluminum (aluminum!) Anderson hitch I had the same reaction… 40 lbs of aluminum to tame a 16k trailer?!? NO WAY!!! Then I thought back to the beginning of my motorcycling days… the then revolutionary, Bell full-face helmet made a big splash with its full-face design… being...

I've grown tired of of "traditional", heavy FW hitch... 200lbs. or so... After exhaustive research I've ordered a Curt Crosswing... It's a 3-piece design with one of the pieces remaining attached to the trailers pin-box... the other two pieces weigh roughly 60 lbs... I can manage 60 lbs...

A couple years ago we had a similar microburst remove the 12' X 40' lean-to from the side of our barn, fly that structure over the 60' length of the barn, fly another 100' towards our house and land next to our garage... there was no damage to the barn roof, not even a scratch... fortunately...

Mine pretty much looked like yours initially… When I bought my tractor I went on a hunt for matching paint… found some Krylon ( I think) at ACE that matches the loader bucket “good enough“… I put three or four coats of “gun metal” on Wylie before getting him in place… It’s amazing what happens...

Got my Wiley “Kioti” hood ornament painted and installed…

I was under the impression most tractors have a “3-point float”…(those without down-pressure) I know I can lift the arms on my tractors manually to assist in hooking up my various implements … or are you speaking of something else?

SUCCESS!!! Well… kinda… I made all the adjustments mentioned earlier, now most of the tall stuff disappears… still have a few stragglers… good enough for me… thanks for all the advice… I’d still be chasing my tail with all the available adjustments…m I also discovered: if you have lost a...

We have been experiencing an “extended spring” here in western Montana… the rain and cool weather has stuck around… causing our fields to grow more than usual… best guess is about 3’ tall… I may have to mow twice… probably not the entire 20 acres this year, just the stuff closest to the house…...

From what I've been able to gather, tilting the mower back, by extending the top link, increases the cut length... After I lower the roller/skids I should be able to get to the 3" mark you suggest by varying the length of my hydraulic top link... No? If that works, I'll try to raise the mower...

That's on my list of "Things I May Try" if I can't get this going to my satisfaction... Hooking up to the Massey is also on the T.I.M.T. list... How long are the chains on your Woodmaxx?

The right side of the yellow line was mowed by Julie on her new Bad Boy... I think she did a nice job for her first time in the seat... there was alfalfa where she mowed, too... Inside the red circles are what's left of 2-3' diameter alfalfa bushes where I mowed with the flail...Outlined in red...

I mowed a small section of field grass/alfalfa/weeds the other day with my new 60” Betstco flail… what was left standing behind the mower wasn’t anything like the videos I’ve seen, where the mower absolutely demolishes anything and everything it runs over… leaving a nice, mulched trail behind…...

Full disclosure: My BB tractor is a Kioti CK2610… HST, 25 HP, R14 loaded tires (rear)… obviously “smaller“ than your L3901… I have yet to experience a situation where my 6’ BB resistance overcomes the available traction/power of the Tractor… I use low range, PTO engine speed and 4WD until I get...

Looks like we have a “school day” (or three) in our near future… thanks for all the Insight guys… I’m thinking of laying our a course in one of our open fields, marked with paint… give Julie something to aim for/miss…

We recently upgraded from a riding mower (Craftsman GT500) to a ZT Elite… Picking up our Bad Boy It was late when we got it home but I couldn’t resist giving it a quick run… it‘s very capable (duh!)… Mowed some 18” alfalfa/weed next to the drive then cut the Mohawks out of the front lawn left...

Got it home yesterday afternoon… haven’t “unwrapped“ it yet… Julie’s all kinds of giddy from watching the sales rep demo it’s abilities in the parking lot before driving it into our trailer… a bit more maneuverable than it’s older brother who just happened to take the opportunity to photo-bomb …

Been looking to replace Julie’s ‘92 GT5000 for a while now… something a bit more user-friendly for her… steering the thing has become more difficult as we get older… I‘ve settled on a ZT Elite 54, price And equipment played a big part in our decision, this mower comes with 3100 transmission...

I had mine delivered to work, there’s a fork-lift there and I didn’t want to take time off waiting for a truck to show up… but, if needed, I could have just pushed them off the back of the delivery truck onto my gravel drive… basically, the set is just three, very stout hunks of metal… roughly...

There’s an easy solution… multiply the number of hotdogs in a pack by the number of buns in a pack and buy that number of each… you’ll never let a hotdog go nekkid again…:unsure:

Haven’t looked through the whole thread (2200+ pages!) but, from the thread title I would expect at least one pic of an overly excitable guy with a “pup-tent” as his new tractor is being delivered…:oops:

Youngest daughter: “Look mom! Dad put a row marker on the tractor! Makes it EASY for us to follow the cutting path!” Wife: “Yes… he’s always thinking of others…that’s why we love him…”

I purchased a solid tire/wheel from HF for an old garden wheelbarrow… it was a cheap solution to keep the thing going… I then purchased a Gorilla brand, ”contractor” wheelbarrow from HD…the big wheelbarrow has an air-filled tire… Running them both around our property was an eye-opener… smaller...

I just purchased a set of pallet fork from Express Steel and have been very satisfied with my choice… https://expresssteelinc.com/product/standard-pallet-forks/ I went with the HD version for various personal reasons… Made in America, free shipping, quick delivery… what’s not to like? Heck...

You are correct… I was alluding to not having to reach down with my hand to activating the diff lock… that would be just as inconvenient as having to reach down to raise the 4WD lever…

Cool... I'll just "drive it" til it quits... or not... OTOH... I'm not much into dill pickles... However, show me a jar of bread-n-butter pickles and I'm yours...:p

In my OP, I naively hoped there was some new “magic bullet” wrench available… I’ve been changing my own oil for almost 50 years… shoulda known better… ;) Looks like I’ll be adding a few new tools to my collection… not a bad thing…

Anyone recommend a jack-of-all-trades filter wrench? I have an old Craftsman strap wrench I use primarily for my Duramax fuel filter (that filter is still a challenge)… a socket-style, 3/8” drive (which I used on a Ford I no longer own)… I’ve done the old...

That kinda gets back to my original question… The guv’ment, in its infinite wisdom, decreed 25 HP was the cutoff for their emissions mandate… I could create an absurd argument that, if one was to take the CASE steam tractor from the video, scale it down to 25 HP, the torque created by that...

I’m just gonna wash out my brain, forget this whole “HP vs torque” thing and enjoy my tractor…🤪 Probably better this way…

We liked Otto as well…

I still don’t get it… I once had a (roughly) 110 HP BMW 2002tii… the car was quick, handled well and was an absolute ball to drive… However, that cars engine didn’t have any hope to be able to move that CASE an inch… let alone the sled (weighted or not)

This here illustrates how higher HP will get the job done faster but torque will get more work done…

Dunno if the foot method is correct or not.. it just seems intuitive… I don’t reach down and use my hand when engaging the diff-lock…;) I don’t stomp on either peddle… engagement is gentle if one does it right…

That pretty much sums up what I’ve been doing… I’m currently working on getting our driveway back in shape after winter… most times I can pull the BB full but occasionally I’ll need 4WD to keep going… then back to 2WD… Dig into the pile of road base… sometimes I need extra traction… I find...

It’s a Kioti CK2610 HST... very similar to the Kubota pictured above... my 4WD and diff-lock levers are reversed with the 4WD lever being closer to the tractor centerline... The diff-lock is spring loaded... I take my foot off the lever and the lock is released... (once the engaged splines are...

Getting used to the new tractor, I’ve found when, and when not, to use 4WD (what’s the correct term for 4 wheel assist?)… I’m typically in 2WD, then engage 4WD (when needed) by pressing down on the engagement lever with my heel… easy-peasy… What I’ve found inconvenient is going from 4-to-2WD…...

Parbuckle… who’da thunk… Yes, that’s exactly what I’ve envisioned… thanks… Maybe I’ll continue collecting material for the bed parbuckle for heavier loads… keep the IBC totes for lighter items…

Yeah... I'm a cheap buzzard... as I was scavenging around the bone yard at work, looking for various materials to accomplish my original plan, I stumbled on the stack of totes... my mind began racing... well, maybe my mind finally shifted out of granny-gear...

This is what I've come up with: I picked up the IBC totes from the company where I work... they, at one time, contained chemicals... I did a quick SDS search on all the available totes and came up with these two... the chemicals they contained were virtually innocuous, so much so the SDS...

watching

Another good one:Last Breath True story about a deep sea (saturation) dive that went wrong… Hurry… it leaves Netflix on May 5th

Is any insurance company gonna write a $7,000 check for a stolen/wrecked/burned, 1970’s Tractor? IDK… which is why I’m asking… Closest scenario I’m familiar with is my fathers ‘73 Triumph Stag… he needed a “collector’s car” insurance policy… basically the owner states the value of the...

Nice, well-equipped tractor… Looks like you’re ready for some fun… just make sure you tell everyone you’re “working”…;)

That fuel fill location looks handy… but counterintuitive… Kioti dealers recommend using a plastic, 5 gallon can to insure fresh, clean fuel each time… then put the fuel cap right behind the front tire where it can collect all the dust, mud, chaff and debris the tire can kick up… cleaning it...

The thread title piqued my interest as I’m able to stand on my Kioti for a few seconds before the kill switch activates… I’m guessing Kioti comes with the delay circuit MTGreen alluded to… If this is the case, I‘ll second the delay circuit recommendation… it should solve you issues without...

I’d start by removing the spark plugs (inspect them for anything odd), add a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery oil to the cylinders and replace the plugs… let it “soak” I also remove the ignition key and “hide” it… hang a “DO NOT OPERATE” tag on the steering wheel so no one attempts to...

Can you connect the “lift“ quick connect to the “curl“ hose? Then, if the curl works well when operating the “lift” control on your joystick, you have at least narrowed down your issue…

Gasoline or diesel?

I saw a story about a fellow in Michigan who mows his fields in circles… is that you?

Reading of your long term experiences... I, Being a new Kioti owner, find your story encouraging… Thanks for posting…

Well… according to the dyno, HP is falling off and torque is rising… yes? IF my small Kioti, with its larger engine than some of its competitors, had dyno curves like the graph above (it doesn’t, I’m sure)… and I could compare that curve to a smaller engined tractor where the engineers...

This is a dyno chart of one of the Cat equipped road tractors we have where I work (heavy construction) I pull double, cement bulk trailers in western Montana… 128,000# give or take… When I first drove this tractor, and came to “the hill” (6% uphill for a little over a mile), I would start...

This is cool enough that I may have to get one for my Massey… :LOL: https://www.avanftai.com/products/wile-e-coyote-hood-ornament?fbclid=IwAR0_R7Dh-guyeSwVPrLJPmxyvxy95WYghgIWec0HNZ0KctIeGi47AhX6QW8

When a nail/staple/screw went into wife’s tire I removed the tire, took it into town and had Discount Tire repair it for “free” … easy peasy (but time consuming) I’m rather new to this whole tractor owner thing… however, I’ve seen what’s involved with changing loader tires and it didn’t look...

I do have several Christmas wreath door magnets (good holding power) and a rather large subwoofer speaker magnet… hmmm… maybe I could incorporate them with a piece of sheet steel to form a drag of some sort… cheaper than buying something new… As far as getting the “guests” to move on… I’ve...

I’m thinking of buying a mag broom for use in a portion of our land. We currently have irresponsible family members living in a trailer located next to our barn. We’ve fenced off roughly 1/4 acre around the trailer to contain the debris. (Sorry for the rant… I’m not happy with the current...

The only thing I’ll add is: Maximum pressure is listed on your tires sidewall… don’t exceed it…

Sounds like the restriction was on the supply line… further limiting the amount of fluid available… causing cavitation… Hydraulics can be rather picky… choose wisely, Grasshopper…

I had the same issue… I was told it’s because the weight of the BB was pulling hydraulic fluid through the top link faster than the hydraulic system could deliver it… causing cavitation (or something to that effect)… Lower your implement to the ground and work your top link… if i operates...

That would be the FFFR!😜 my list: ’05 Silverado —CC/LB/diesel current ’96 Nissan -- (with a slush box!) shoulda kept it ‘07 GearUp —that three-wheeled thing in my avatar (seriously, I’ve probably hauled more in the hack than I ever have in my trucks)

I have a QH on my other tractor (MF 135)… I’ve been accumulating implements second hand (‘cept my BB… got 25% off at Murdochs sale), as such, many implements aren’t QH compatible… found out rather quick that my implements also don’t play well with each other (as far as the QH was concerned)… I...

Looks like I’m gonna be ordering Pat’s (when exactly does a person stop spending more money on their tractor?!?:LOL: )… After posting, then looking more closely at the flail pictures, it appears if the mower were tilted forward a bit there might be enough room for Pat to fit between the...

You may want to reconsider your method of attachment… the video in the OP shows many preferred ways of attaching to a tow vehicle… video above shows what could happen if attaching to a tow ball…

Yes… you can find anything on the internet…🤓 This calculator is supplied by Spicer…Spicer Horsepower and Torque Calculator It’s like dad always told me: “No sense talking to the monkey when you can talk to the organ grinder…” I figured Spicer knows a thing or two about multiply and handling...

Doesn’t have be heavy, or even metal… one fatality In a company I worked with involved an 18” long, plastic “broom handle” being carried in the cab… concrete mixer rolled on its side, the plastic handle ended up in the drivers head… sad… Nothing‘s loose in my cab…

Recently purchased a Betstco flail and am thinking hard about Pat’s Quick Hitch for my new tractor… The flail doesn’t appear to have room to “quick hitch” the traditional Pat’s way ( back up with the hooks under the pins and lift)… Will Pat’s work with this setup? Not necessarily the quick...

These four tractors are from the "25 HP" class... obviously of different physical size... Model and engine size I listed in RED... all the specs (rated HP, rated RPM) came from TractorData Again, I don't get why Kubota doesn't tout their torque figures...

I've seen several BIG tractors working fields around our small "estate"... pulling two or three implements behind them... Without exception, they were motoring along at a snails pace (compared to the speed they run on the local roads, between fields)... Which reinforces my question of torque...

The ONLY way I sell big ticket items is to meet the buyer at THEIR bank, I park right up front in view of the lobby, I have them withdraw cash and present it to me while we’re still in the bank and ask the front, courtesy clerk to please watch as I head to my vehicle. I walked out one time with...

Why do manufacturers rate their tractors according to HP rather than torque? I can see why automakers use HP ratings to sell their cars… to the uninitiate, HP is king — more HP = faster car… (although this isn’t always the case). Tractors, on the other hand, make better use of torque… maybe I...

Quite a few clever solutions… here I thought I had a unique situation with my flatbed… I still have a month or two of cold Montana weather before I get outside in earnest… I’m gonna roll these ideas around in my head, maybe combine a couple and, hopefully come up with something that will save...

I’m finding it difficult to explain my unloading theory… In what I’m visualizing, the chain link or the tarp on top of it wouldn’t “slide” on the aluminum trailer bed… I would grab the front end of the chain link and lift it/pull it to get the material to roll off the back… I probably would...

That crank system won’t work on my trailer… the bed is too low to allow for the rotation of the handle… bummer… on to your issue… I’ve read that if you place a large sheet of vinyl (I.e. old billboard covers) under your conveyor it makes the handle MUCH easier to rotate… regardless of the load…

In an attempt to make my rural life easier, I purchased my first ever tractor equipped with a FEL… (Kioti CK2610 if it matters) Following that purchase, I’ve invested in a flail mower, pallet forks and various other minor improvements to make my tractor “mine”… That being said, the purchase...

i believe it’s a reverse rotation (same rotation as a pull-behind tiller)… which, I also believe, is not a good thing as far as flung-ants go…

As far as getting rid of the ants, I’m going to try the “borax” solution (no pun intended) before mowing… My primary concern with the ants and their mounds is: if I mow one over, is the flail going to throw them forward far enough to where i will be covered with the pissed off little creatures...

I’m relatively new to tractors and an absolute novice when it comes to PTO shafts… Is there such thing as a “solid” PTO shaft? (I.e. a U-joint on each end but with no provision for a shear bolt/slip clutch anywhere along its length…)

PTSG, that’s my shear bolt… I have a Betstco 60" Medium Duty Flail Mower, FH-EFG155… belt Driven… going to go on the back of my Kioti CK2610 HST… I purchased it just before Christmas … I assembled it a few days ago and have been familiarizing myself with its workings… which is how I discovered...

Thanks for the replies… i‘m not quite sure I understand the various shear strength applications… I’ve read, here and elsewhere, “Don’t use anything other than a grade 2 bolt… you’ll destroy your tractor/implement gearbox”… Then there’s my Danuser PHD… the users manual states, “Use only Danuser...

As the title says… I found a 12.9 shear bolt on my brand spanking new flail mower PTO shaft… it’s roughly 5/16” X 2” … I know, 12.9 is a metric rating but SAE bolts are easier to find and quite a bit less spendy… hence the std. measurement…regardless… i pulled the bolt and underneath all that...

You just gave me an idea… my tractor has two “unused” attachment points directly under the FEL mounts (they’re the front attachment points for a backhoe)… if I were to hang a strip of heavy metal (I-beam, railroad rail etc) from those points, perpendicular to my path of travel and suspended by...

I recently purchased a flail mower For use on our CUT. Our property has numerous ant hills (12-18” tall) hidden in our grasses/weeds/alfalfa. Many years ago, as a budding 12 year old entrepreneur, I earned spending money tearing up my dads powered reel mower on our neighbors yards. The most...

I'm new to this HST thing also... and have "killed" my CK2610 on more than one occasion with HST pedal "misuse"... first time I was attempting to fill the FEL bucket with road mix... as I dug into the pile the engine began to bog, so, like the novice I am, I pressed the HST pedal down farther...

They’ll take what they’ve learned and move on to greener pastures… motorcycle fuel tanks for example…

I did send ES an email regarding the “modification“ I found necessary… and also pointed out how the grinding wasn’t necessary in other cases… Mostly I wanted them to know I was impressed, overall, with the quality of product they delivered…

When I first tried to engage the pins I thought… ”Great… should I send them back or just ‘half-engage’ the pins and use them that way…” As I studied the issue I realized the stressors on them were exactly as you say… most of the leverage is hanging/pulling on the upper bar (the reason I went...

R14… yes… unfortunately, my owners manual doesn’t list them on the “tires and recommended pressures” page… which is part of the reason I had to make such an extreme psi change today… I’ve dealt with “high flotation/low psi” tires in the past (3 - 4 psi on an atv) but this is my first...

You want me to buy another set of forks? If you read the entire thread you'll see the reasoning (and all the brain damage) behind buying this set of forks...

There is a gap at the bottom... The tractors quick attach plate (red line) connects with the mast at somewhat of an angle... the mast lower square tube (yellow line) is more upright when attached to the tractor... It's the top of the masts 3" square tube that mates with the tractors QA...

I received my Express Steel HD fork set the other day... it's probably gonna be a while before I get outside to start picking up stuff, but I thought I'd report back on my decision... 1st: $825 delivered to my door or place of business (I had them delivered to my work as they come strapped to...

I got my tractor into my (heated :)) garage this morning for some quality play time... I wanted to fiddle with the tire pressures... previously, I had set all tires to 35 psi ... found I could slip a 3/4+ furring strip under the edge of the tread... not good... I was riding just on the center...

Short answer: No… and I, like many others, have run severely weather checked tires for many years (well, 5 years in my case…) without issues… OTOH… if some unscrupulous dealer tried to pass off 10 year old, NOS tires when you are paying for new… wouldn’t you want to know?

…a very good point... I should‘ve stated: I’ll be running these R14’s for the foreseeable future… I’m the epitome of the “weekend warrior”… I Don’t use my tractor on a daily basis, it’s more of a convenience on our property, well, that and way more fun than a shovel or a hand-truck… Having...

My tractor, guessing, weights maybe 3000 - 3300 lbs (with FEL and tire ballast)… extrapolating the charts, if I run max pressure (44 psi) in each tire I could carry a whole ‘nuther CK and still be under the tires weight ratings… :unsure:

Thanks for the link… Gives me a good starting point… FWIW, these charts are for the Kioti CK10 tire sizes… other sizes are listed in the link above…

I contacted Kioti regarding the generic torque specs vs. specific torque specs (engine assembly, for example)... Their recommendation was to use the wheel lug torque specs spelled out in the owners manual and then use the generic chart for all other "user serviceable" bolts/nuts on the tractor...

Is it possible the max bead seating pressure is lower than the max load carrying pressure? That would explain the “1850 lbs @ 44 psi“ label along with the “35 psi max“ label… both listed on the same sidewall…

I’m new to this “FEL, loaded rear tire” thing… The front sidewall says “1830 lbs at 44 psi”… my FEL rating is right at 1830, that added the front axle weight (2000 lb? I don’t know…) if I’m reading this all correctly, I need to keep the front tires close To max pressure… no? How would I...

Just doing the first overall check of the new tractor equipped with R14T... I got to the "check tire pressure" portion of the show, checked the owners manual (which doesn't list R14) the closest I found was the "Industrial" tire--which matched the sizes I have on my tractor (15-19.5 & 27 X...

I guess I could do a one-and-done bolt size measurement for the important fasteners (FEL mounts, ROPS etc.) and make notes regarding torque specs for each location… “two finger tight” would work for things like steps, fenders and such…

yes... the charts you have are similar to the ones I found.. I guess to make my question more simple... How do I determine if I'm dealing with a 1/4" or 5/16" bolt (without pulling the bolt out)...? I'm trying to simplify maintenance by just checking the bolts... Is there a standard...

Reading through the owners manual of my new tractor (Kioti CK2610 HST, if it matters) I came across a couple of "torque tightening charts", one for metric, the other for ISO...the charts list "bolt sizes" and "grades"-- along with the minimum and maximum torque for each... Other than the...

My Kioti idles at 1,000 RPM… that’s where I start it and let It warm… My MF135 idles a bit lower, I usually set the throttle to 1,000 just before I shut it down, so, on start up it too goes to 1,000… I did turn the key as soon as the glow plug lamp went off… I try Giving it a few more seconds...

I’m going strictly by the glow plug idiot light on the dash… when the ambient temp is warm, the glow plugs cycle rather quickly (3-5 seconds)… during this cold snap they have stayed on considerably longer (8-10 seconds)… I have no idea what electronic sensor may be in the system to activate the...

I snapped this pic from the station I routinely visit… I also use a double-dose of PS in my 33 gallon “fuel station” tank… I don’t have a cab on either of my tractors… when it gets to 20 below I watch the snow from in front of the fireplace…BTW… year before last we hit -33… fun stuff…

There is a seasonal label on the pumps I visit in Montana… I’ll paraphrase: “Fuel is guaranteed to -5 degrees“… something lIke that… the label usually shows up in October You’re correct… it’s “treated” not “blended”… although blended is available at a different pump…

I visit the same (busy) fuel station for both my diesel pickup and also the red diesel.. my pickup runs fine on their winter blend… although the pickup sleeps in a heated garage and has a “winter front end” over the grill during the cold months… My Massey 135 has been running on the winter...

on another, RV related web board I have a thread regarding a 50a to 20@ pigtail… I want to plug my block heater into my RV 50a plug… if you’re really bored: RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: DIY 50 amp to 20 amp pigtail Yes… I used the “white bottle”… could’ve swore it said “DieselKleen” on...

I did my first, true Cold start on my CK yesterday… 17 degrees, after an overnight low of 8… I didn’t have the block heater plugged in… but that’s another story… Turned the key… waited for the glow plugs to do their thing, then cranked the engine… it started without excessive cranking but died...

Looks good… a very thoughtful upgrade… and you pointed out another thing I hadn’t considered… I was thinking one electric port for all my needs (fuel station, sprayer, battery tender) connected with a relay controlled by a switched hot lead… That‘s not gonna work… I’d have to leave the key on...

Scootr, What wire are you using from your remote poles to your fuel pump? …and which fuel pump do you have? Nice looking setup, BTW… I'm not familiar with Kubota… is that a plastic floor in the battery compartment you drilled through?

Something else I haven't considered... a dash mounted switch... Those Powerpole connections look nice... where did you find the one with a spring-loaded cover? I found them on the internet but there's many different ratings.. are yours 50 amp?

This is the kind of information I'm looking for... obviously, I"m not an electrical Which got me to looking at the specs of my most power-hungry connection... the one going to my Fill Rite SD1202H pump... My pump is probably 18-20 years old (still works great!) I'm hoping the current manual...

Mine didn't come with any power outlet... so I'm starting from square one... FWIW.. my original idea was to install a PowerLet socket... same size and space constraints as the standard "cigarette lighter" but much more robust...'' While searching for the Powerlet, the 50 amp, marine socket...

I was think the same thing… kinda spendy… Let me know if you hear anything back from Amazon regarding individual male connectors…

I’m deliberating adding an 12v outlet to my tractor… currently (pun intended) having three items I wish to connect I’m thinking of a quick connect like this: In the past I connected items via alligator-style clips.. not exactly easy and screwing around with battery clamps isn‘t on my...

I’m deliberating adding an 12v outlet to my tractor… currently (pun intended) having three items I wish to connect I’m thinking of a quick connect like this: In the past I connected items via alligator-style clips.. not exactly easy and screwing around with battery clamps isn‘t on my...

Or… in my case… I can’t always do now what I could have easily done 10 years ago… As Toby Keith puts it…

Actually, it’s bigger than that… I have a mindset of making things easier in the future… easier on my worn and tired body… Originally I was looking at a 3 point pallet fork for my MF135… to be used as I described earlier (moving simple, light items)… Then Mother Nature visited us with a...

The CK10 series now come with an up-rated KL4030 FEL… lift capacity 1835… but I get what you’re saying… that’s still well under a 2000# light-duty fork set… i Keep going back to the delivered cost… many, if not most, of the light duty forks arrive at my door with a price well in excess of the...

heck… I don’t think $600 forks exist… Well I guess I’ll go back to my original post then… don’t get me wrong… I’m not “independently wealthy“, however, one thing I’ve learned in my 66+ years is not to cheap out on things I’ll use… sometimes it’s better to bite-the-bullet the first time around...

Where are you finding $337 forks? I looked at PalletForks.com and the cheapest ones There are $690 (w/42” forks)… they don’t list “light duty”… only 4000#…

Not for "Fergie"... my MF 135 has a baby brother... Kioti CK2610... needed (wanted?) a FEL... Yes... it's a great tractor...

I should mention, I live in a smaller city… my local dealer carries one choice for forks which need to work on all the tractors they sell… they’re about $1150… My options are to buy through the internet or travel several hundred miles to a larger dealer who may or may not have an inexpensive...

I've been shopping for SSQA pallet forks for my new Kioti CK2610... lift capacity "in excess of 1800#" according to the Kioti website... I can almost promise I'll never approach the max lift... I don't move downed trees, buy pallets of stove pellets, stack and move firewood or any other such...

I have been driving a mixer for almost 25 years… most recently in western Montana… just yesterday I backed up a steep, 1/2 mile drive with 9.5 yards in my drum… the super was kind enough to drive me up in his pickup prior to my delivery to give me an idea of where I was going and how best to...

Well… could be I’m cryin‘ before I’m even hurt… I just went to the barn to inspect the transfer tank… to see exactly what I’m dealing with… reading the particulate filter (# F4010PMO) it’s rated for: dirt, rust and microbes… are microbes the diesel bug I’ve been readin about? it’s a 10 micron...

I would think a tractors fuel filter is its last line of defense… to keep all the bad things out of the injector pump… why else would it be there? The Kioti uses a water separator type Filter…. I can easily drain accumulated water out the bottom any time I want… What I’m not sure of is how...

I’ve been driving my MF135 Deluxe for about five years… the first three years I lifted countless 5 gallon Jerry cans to fuel up… then I got a deal on a 33 gallon transfer tank… the old Fill-Rite pump works great (the tank came off a 1984 Nissan pickup which was used at a local airport so I’m...

I haven’t taken the tilt hoses apart yet … although, I need to — to remove the teflon tape used by the dealership… reading up on the alloy used in the minting of modern dimes (cupronickel), the use of a “10 cent” restrictor might just work… if I can manage to poke a 1/32” hole in one (I don’t...

I ordered two restrictor… one for the top and one for the side… I put the top on the ram end hose and gave it a go… nice, smooth, slow extension… AND NO MORE CHATTERING 👍… unfortunately the retract was still “full” speed… no restriction… I placed the other restrictor on the closed end hose and...

Got the top link off the tractor and the quick connectors removed… I say “connectors” because when I removed the ram side connector ( where I’ll place the restrictor) I found the dealer used Teflon tape to seal the threads… got all the tape off the threads and everything cleaned up with alcohol…...

I ordered two of those... one to slow down the top link and (hopefully) get rid of the "chatter" when extending the ram... the other is for the side link... just to slow it down... Now the wait begins... c'mon UPS!!!

I had the dealer install the top n tilt prior to delivery… they used 3/8 hoses with a 1/2” male end…

Unfortunately I don’t have access to a metal lathe… one would be handy for so many applications… Yes on the Apache… albeit with a 1/2” thread… Depending on the supplier there’s either a 1/32” or 1/16” restriction… which one did you get?

I know…I’m beating a dead horse… I see many MANY threads referring to placing a restriction in the line… what I can’t find is the “5 buck” orifice every thread refers to… Quite a few suppliers sell a simple, inline orifice (which would be my preference) but I’ve seen them as high a $75 for a...

I bought me a new toy… Kioti CK2610 HST… recently, I stopped by the dealer to pick up a couple special order items for the tractor… while I was there I also asked for a gallon of hydraulic fluid to keep the various systems topped off… They sold me a gallon of CARQUEST 760-01 tractor fluid…...

I like the idea of a stopper on a tether… out of the way when fueling… easy to wipe the nozzle with a rag… “difficult” to forget when done… Ill find one at the local ACE… along with an eyelet to screw into the large end…

Good point… hadn’t really thought about that…

The holster for the nozzle is made of narrow, metal channel… open at the bottom… there are holes in the channel to place a long shackle lock (grandkids)… which limits the amount of space available to place any protective cover over the nozzle… A large part of the problem is the wind here… it...

Thanks… I spent the better part of an hour reading and rereading the above referenced thread… The info you provided “off the top-of your head” gives me reassurance… not only in regards to my hydraulic issue… but also the fact this old brain of mine can still function properly … even if it is...

I can’t find the answer to my specific question with the search function… this thread came the closest: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/what-kind-of-hydraulic-flow-restrictors-do-i-need.48558/ reading through the posts, provided the information and reasoning I was looking for to...

No sense in letting a good thread wither on the vine… bumped once in 2010… again in 2013… AGAIN in 2017… now here we are running headlong at 2023, time to revisit an, IMHO, excellent thread… reading through the posts, brain surgery or not, provided the information and reasoning I was looking...

Thanks for the ideas… As I said… young kids in the mix and a tight fit in the locking Metal holster… I’ll measure the I.D. and O.D. of the nozzle next time Out, then fashion/order a plug/cover depending on available room… I’ve had this fueling system for about six months and have never...

I recently purchased a CK2610 HST… it was actually delivered yesterday… fun stuff… it has joined our growing tractor family (‘67 MF 135 Deluxe, ‘92 Craftsman GT 5000 and ‘65 Case 130)… my question, however, is in regards to an older style 33gallon Fill-Rite fuel tank/pump I have on our...

Just like that… IT’S OFF!!! On the Danuser it is “pull the ring to engage/release”… Goofy thing is: there are two moveable rings on the connector—held apart by a concealed spring…the more prominent ring (the one I was pushing) moves more easily than smaller, forward ring (the ring I should...

I followed Jeff’s link and found the owners manual for the Danuser buried in one thread… what oosik so eloquently stated is exactly what the manual says to do… I’m so embarrassed… I haven’t been outside yet today, but I’m guessing this is gonna solve my issue…