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I have, what I think, is a MT 6000 transplanter with a carousel for dropping the seedlings into the furrow. Today we put in 800 sweet corn 1.5" x 1.5" cells and we had some trouble keeping all the plants upright. When we lowered the cutting depth of the machine, the carousel would not feed the...

Update: I was able to use the sprayer for my first oil dormancy spray this past weekend. Worked great. It took a little doing to get the nozzle rate dialed in. I had the best luck with TeeJet orifice discs D3 at waist height, D2 higher up. I had to take the Cone Jet nozzles out due to using...

Update: Weather in the area was in the upper 40's last night so I was able to install the new piston cups and assembly. Someone on here, I believe Seven Gables, mentioned boiling them to soften them up. Worked great. I used my old Coleman camping stove, an old pot and dropped them in. They...

Those are really close, I am just NOT ready to drop $30 a piece for 18 of them.......I also like bringing back some old things back from the dead. (As you guys already know). A question I do have is the replacement diaphragm. I see them in a variety of lbs. Is the lbs the PSI that the check...

The units below are what I would love to get and install...

I am currently using these units...

Bump

A couple more questions to men with experience. 1) I really like the idea of using brass bodied diaphragm check valves. There isn't a lot of information that I can find on buying them or rebuilding old units. I found this eBay listing where they are offering TeeJet 975B brass body parts. I...

Asian units have yet to arrive, I anticipate a month or so.

They are pretty darn stiff. Not sure if that is from age or that is how they are.

NOS Piston cups showed up, look pretty good. They are pretty stiff. I am wondering a couple things. 1) Is this the way they come? Seven Gables has noted that they are tough to get in, I assume this maybe what I am going to encounter. 2) What is a good lubricant that can be used to assist...

3

Well, I was able to grab the NOS units for $20 each. Not too bad! I am still going to explore the overseas units just for the sake of giving it a try.

Given the price point of the overseas units, I am probably going to buy both. I would experiment with the overseas units to see where it gets me. I would also make an offer on the NOS units. Let's see what happens!

$2.90 each

This looks good for leather, but the rubber on these piston cups is pretty thick

Here is a photo of the units from overseas. There are 2.352" so my math is a little off from my previous post. The amount that would need to be removed is 0.1645", a little more than 1/16", but not by much. Sanding the cups could be a good way to go about it, but is there also a way to...

These are mine

Ok, so I was able to source a set of NOS Myers piston cups. They are a whopping $92 a piece. I was able to get the OD dimensions of the original units which is 2-3/16”. That seems to track with them being a little tighter than they currently are and how much they have potentially worn. The...

As I have explored the internet for more piston cups, I have found that there are many available in China. I am not keen on buying Communist made good, but they also offer matching cylinder sleeves to go with the piston cups. My thought would be to get an outside dimension of my cylinder...

So each light represents a nozzle and the least used nozzles are going to be the upper most (blue) nozzles. Very few of my trees have any canopy at that high of a degree above the sprayer, so I made it the last selection of the panel.

Just curious, were you guys able to see the video of the control panel?

The new units are exactly 2". They are in there snug, but not super tight. My concern is that they leak a little BEHIND the cylinder head and onto the ground. Water is getting around the piston cups in some way or another. Hence my question on putting in units a little larger than the...

I think the longest it has been run with little to no water was probably 1 minute while it initially primed. In the searching I am doing, I have found that 2.25" piston cups are very common. My cylinder liners are 2". Is it possible that there should be 2.25" piston cups installed in this...

I did run it with water only at this point. I am afraid to run it without at least water in it.

I did a test run without sprayer tips on the unit and everything works as it should!!! It was a lot of work, but I am confident that it will do its job this year. The only test that I really haven't been able to do, is a long term test. I want to run an entire tank of water through the...

Question: Are there any consequences for running the pump dry? I would like to drain things out when spraying is done and use the pump to blow everything out. Is there a time limit for doing this? Don’t do it for more than a minute? 2 minutes? Don’t do it? Doesn’t matter?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Tl9XkxdINX4DbuR9_-fo8n5LuCna6bfx/view?usp=share_link Here is a video of the control panel in operation. Took me about an hour to sort out the let side to get to work in the opposite direction, but it works! The lights light up in correspondence to which valves...

Been under the weather the last 3 days, but I was able to get back to it today and test the pump. Long and short, it works. Here's what happened. Hooked up the PTO, poured about 25 gallons of water into the tank and gave it a whirl. Ran for about 30 seconds and the pressure bounced between...

I really appreciate the offer! There are plenty of MECHANICAL pressure gauges, there are aren't very many ELECTRICAL pressure gauges. I would need a PSI gauge with a sending unit so that it can be plugged in and unplugged at will. I am tempted to buy a couple units that I have seen out...

Update: New control panel is halfway done. Selector switches for the different patterns and left or right sides. LEDs will light up based on the solenoids being used at the time. I left room for a pressure gauge if I find one.

My place is pretty flat. Maybe 2-3% grade tops. I’m betting the ratio is right around 4:1. There are a lot of belts, but they all do only one thing. The large banded belt, only drives the fan. The two individual belts really close to the tank, drive the agitator. The two individual belts...

Right now, I’m at $664 all in. The biggest expense has been the tires at $75, the 8 solenoids at $140, the $210 for new belts and the $66 for the bearings. Not terrible. I’ve spent more on fertilizer…….

Relay box mounted and working. I need to finish putting in the suppressor diodes on the solenoids to help reduce voltage spikes and stray voltage. Diodes and a snubber will make the relay and solenoid life increase quite a bit.

New bearing with a taller zerk fitting. The old one was very tricky to get to.

Previous belts

Main shaft is 8 belts total to create one band.

Update: Belts are in. That was a job! The olds belts were very worn and easy to slide off. The main jack shaft was pulled out and cleaned, which helped, but the new banded belts were tricky to get on all at once. Nevertheless, they are in and look great. New SKF bearings are in the flange...

Not the best photo, but I drilled holes into the back of the relay box and installed nut-serts to mount it to the hood. This makes it MUCH easier to take in and out if needed. If you see a nut-sert tool and ever thought about getting it, get it. Makes it much easier to mount light weight...

Update: Belts are in place but not tight, still waiting for bearings before it gets put back together. The relay box has been built. I have to finish a little bit of the wiring from the solenoids to the relay box, but 90% done and functions. The control box is next. The second photo has...

I drilled out the flange bearing housings to 1/8 NPT instead of 1/4-28. This allowed me to put in a double flare adapter so that I can add a remote zerk fitting rather than trying to reach under the machine to grease. I will be using 3/16” brake line in order to feed the bearings.

So, looking at post #91 you can see the through bolt in the PTO yoke, is really grooved out. I don't think that bolt is really a shear pin/bolt. On my hay baler, there is a shear bolt and only a shear bolt, no key. If you are going to use a shear for any shaft, it needs to be softer than the...

I have not run it yet, but I am pretty confident it will do its job.

Increments marked on the sight glass

Found some key stock! Cleaned out bolt hole and lined it up a little better. I have a feeling it has been run for a while without a key and the hole is very oval shaped.

Welded up the end of the shaft and ran it through my mill. 3/8 key way was pretty easy. Waiting on new key stock.

The red wheels are what they seem to have in photos and mine were red too. Not exactly the same red, but very close.

Fan guard installed with new inserts into the fiberglass.

I pulled the flange bearings out and the housings look good, I ordered new bearings and I will redo the zerks to make them easier to get to.

The fan and the nose cone are polished and mounted

The input side of the PTO shaft is rough. I am going to have to do some work on the end of this key way

Update: Pulled the main drive shaft out in order to replace belts and bearings. Belts look to be original. It just has that look……

Not really sure!!! I grabbed it at an auction for under $10 and I have been getting it back up and running. I like getting things that used to be something, back to their former state of usefulness. Today, I was able to get the fan off and start the process of giving it a polish. I think...

I’m looking to add a pressure gauge in the cab for the sprayer. The gauge will have to go to at least 150-200 psi, no? I’m thinking an oil pressure gauge and sending unit will work, but I can’t find anything in this range. Ideas?

I made the deflectors today too.

Two coats of paint are on it. Could not for life of me put my finger on this color, then it dawned on me……McDonalds Shamrock Shake…….

Copy that on the deflectors. The current spring leaves a little to be desired, going to have to source something new. The stainless I have ins't as nice as I thought it was, going to have to make it out of regular good old fashion steel. The deflectors, to do them right, will take a little...

One question, on the back of the sprayer tank, there is a thick coating of something that WILL NOT come off with anything short of a scraper. I THINK, but I am not sure that it is a combination of grease from the fan bearing, old pesticide, but there is something else. I think it is a...

It took quite a bit of careful removal techniques to get that steel rod off. Those nuts and bolts were very rusted and cutting them off carefully was the best way to prevent breaking or damaging the fiberglass. Once it was off, the original 'bases' of the deflectors were RUSTED on the shaft...

Rear tank brace

Hole repair

New solenoids

Update: hole in tank is repaired, the patch that was there did begin to weep after a short time. Pulled out the rubber patch and the steel plate that held it in and all of it was rotten on the inside. The rear tank strap and fan support has been remade and tack welded, ready to go. I made a...

Got it, unfortunately I don't have a heated space for my sprayer. I can flush the system with red RV antifreeze, that's what I did with the FMC in the past.

I have a very large air compressor in my shop. We use it for a variety of things, but it comes in handy the most when we blow out our irrigation lines in the fall. I am considering adding an air line connection on this sprayer to aid in winterizing the unit. Any reason to not add one? Bad...

TractorTech, I initially saw your post and the links to Atlantic Pump, but the images were not visible. After reading some of these posts again, I can now see the images! I did not know that the tank is 400 gallons, I thought it was 300. I would have been off by 25% for all of my sprays...

Here is the patch. Not sure how well it holds. I might just leave it alone if it doesn’t leak. Otherwise I’m going to have to do some fiberglass work

Lower suction side and nozzle ports. I was able to get all but one pipe nipple out. Someone capped the outside of a nozzle port with a 1/2” pipe cap roughly threaded on. I pulled that off and I couldn’t get a drill bit through. I tried a Dremel and I was able to expose the end of a broken...

Some new plumbing

Pump and new pressure gauge

Another issue I have found is inside of the fiberglass tank. The tube that runs the length of the tank which houses the driveshaft for the fan, has some cracks in it. Some are pretty good sized, but the fiberglass is very thick. I would like to do some proactive sealing up to prevent leaks...

I have used herbicide in the past, but I had mixed results. I will work on getting my license. I have recently built a swing arm mower that cuts in between the rows, it bumps the trees and swings out of the way. I have irrigation divided up into 9 zones and the hoses are buried under mulch...

I do not have my applicators license, but I do not believe we are using anything restricted in our state. Not sure I could buy it without a license from FS Conserve anyways. We haven't planted since 2021 and I am happy with our current volume of trees. There used to be about 5 other orchards...

I can do that

My FMC was dialed in at 125-130 PSI My tractor was right around 6 MPH My rows are 15 feet wide I can't remember how many gallons were applied per acre. What I can remember is that it required almost exactly 3 - 100 gallon sprayer tank fills to cover 88 rows @ 200ft long. I was happy with my...

I think this previous question got lost in the posts, forgive me. Another question, right now my 100 gallon FMC with 12 nozzles., I am using TeeJet TX-VS18, orange cone sprayer nozzles. I can't remember who I contacted back at TeeJet to get my calculations a few years ago, but those numbers...

Understood, I will add ball valves and elbows to make it easier to drain.

Another question, right now my 100 gallon FMC with 12 nozzles., I am using TeeJet TX-VS18, orange cone sprayer nozzles. I can't remember who I contacted back at TeeJet to get my calculations a few years ago, but those numbers worked great then. Now that this sprayer has 18 nozzles, I assume I...

My strainers are exactly like the units on eBay that you listed. The caps are a little different, but 90% the same. That stainless cap may be able to be pulled out, but I am going to have to heat it up to get it out. There was a TON of white sediment in the column of the stainer. If that...

Do you have a part number for that filter on your sprayer? Or do you have a recommended unit?

Sadly, mine have no pipe plugs to drain the filters. They have to be unscrewed and drained by pulling off the whole cap. The cap does have a stainless steel hex nut on the top that hold in the screens. I wonder if I can remove the nut or make an adapter to add in a drain........I am...

Thank you gentlemen for all the help!!! Odd question perhaps, but here it goes. On this sprayer there is a large filter on the tank feed side. Cast iron housing with a flip up lid, about 5" in diameter and 7" deep with a pleated perforated brass filter. This goes up to the pump and from...

I will get some photos ASAP

Update: Still haven't found any rubber/leather cups for the pump. The units I have look pretty good, but after all the tearing into it, I would like to find new units. I also bought new unions for the sprayer on the 3/4" pressure side to replace some crusty units currently on the unit. I...

My cylinders are steel/cast iron. Hard to tell if they are part of the casting or pressing in sleeves. I’m leaning towards pressed in sleeves based on the shape and machining. I will look for leathers, the most common size for the shape I have is 76mm, mine would be between 52-54mm. Not sure...

Not sure what to call the rubber cups that screw down onto the piston brass body. Any thoughts on where to source?

Here are some photos of the pistons

Update: The pump is out and I have the 'head' off of the pump. There were 6 smaller diameter caps that held back 6 light springs and some shallow cups. I removed all the parts, pulled out the o-rings and tossed them into my vibratory parts cleaner. There were 3 larger 1-1/2" diameter caps in...

I really don't know what the PSI is supposed to be at. It is a piston pump, not sure how much it can make either. I will tell you that the pump probably weighs 100lbs by itself. After looking at it a little closer, it looks to me like someone has been in this pump before. The seals look...

I will try to reach out to F.E. Myers and Phil Brown next week, might be tricky with the holidays, but I will get into that ASAP. I was able to remove the pump today, most of it looks good at first glance. The pump turns with no unusual resistance. Some the oil is clean and no evidence of...

I should add that it has the cable actuated controls with the 'joysticks'. I would like to convert to 12VDC solenoids, any recommended solenoids for this application?

Ok, I was able to pick the sprayer up today and take some more photos of the unit. Everything is there, someone did open all the valves and remove the strainers, there is a repair on the fiberglass tank that isn't the best, but I have repaired fiberglass before. There is a little rot on the...

Any advice on what to start with? I was thinking, pull off all of the nozzles, blow it out with compressed air, vacuum any debris out of the bottom of the tank, rinse the tank out, disconnect any hoses and blow them out. The pump, I'm not sure.......I'm afraid to tear into it without a...

Well, I won the auction. For $7.50. I think that is a decent enough starting point, might be worth a little sweat equity

That's kinda what I am thinking. $250 is my cap. I figured the chassis and the PTO shafts are worth that. I hear you on the junk. I have tried save a number of machines over the years and I am less and less inclined to do so these days. This sprayer is right down the street and hopefully...

As it sits right now, my FMC has a 30" fan and the tractor moves it right along. I am sure adding a lot more weight and a larger pump and larger rotating mass may change that. I do not have 6-10k. I am a bottom feeder. We have an 18 acres and a relatively small operation. I work full time...

My trees are only 10 feet tall at best. Almost everything we have is either dwarf or semi-dwarf, 1700 or so trees. Not a real big operation. I have 12 volt solenoids on my FMC from the old pull string valves. I made a simple control box that I can plug in and use the solenoids from the cab...

I have a 100 gallon FMC 3 point, I like it, but a larger tank would be nice. This unit looks like 300 gallons, maybe 250. The price point is probably going to be pretty low since this area is not known for fruit growing operations in the area, so I am going to give it a shot and see what...

Does anyone know where to find parts, information, manuals, etc for an older F.E. Myers air blast sprayer? I’ve looked all over in a combination of searches and I can’t find anything solid. Just units for sale or formerly for sale. Looks to be a fiberglass tank, probably 70’s or 80’s model...

Ok, I found my problem. In order to remove the whole gearbox on one of these tedders, you have to remove the SNAP RING on the end. Once that was off, I could get the bearing on the end torched off because it was seized on the shaft and long since dead. You also have to remove the two roll...

I was able to buy a 4 basket KH500 for next to nothing, but it has a gearbox that has seen better days. There are two bearings on the input shaft, one is a sealed bearing about 2" in diameter and then a roller bearing that rides on the shaft farther back. The roller bearing is all egg shaped...

Anyone know if there are ramifications when using flame weeding around young (3-6 year old apple trees)? I assume going too slow around any small tree is going to be a potential issue, but other than that.....?

Let's just say I want to reconsider and use a flamer. I have access to a large amount of waste oil......not sure how to build that, but I assume pressurized with air and vaporized to create a flame.

Sorry for the late response, been using starting fluid so far. No luck with the glow plugs. I found a bad connection on the line in coming from the battery, but that wasn't my issue. I am starting to lean towards having an issue with the ignition switch. The light that used to come on the...

I know that steam takes quite a bit to get going.....I was also thinking about using a heated power washer tank. Would something like that be hot enough? I also heard that using steam makes seeds burst like popcorn.

Anyone ever use steam to kill/prevent weeds? Any ideas of how to make or use a boiler to generate enough steam to go up and down rows of apple trees to kill weeds and grass? I was thinking of using something like a household steam boiler, fueling it with propane, pulling it or pushing it with...

Nonsense! Thank you very much, I will dig in this week.

Just about any wiring diagram with the engine in it would be ideal

That should work

Or at least, what color wire is the fusible link?

Anyone know where the link is? I would rather not cut the entire loom and harness apart to find it. Does anybody have a wiring diagram?

I will check the fusible link, thank you!

I used my tractor last Saturday to run a compressor off the PTO for 8 hours. The compressor was for running pneumatic pruners. Sunday morning, wouldn't start. Started off of ether, so I have narrowed it down to glow plugs not working. I metered the the plugs, no voltage. The 4 pin relay up...

Not being cheap, this is a very well made seat. Suspension is excellent and shock is replaceable. Upholstery on this unit is easy, just looking for a model number or type to find arms.

Does anyone know what brand or kind of seat this is? I would like to reupholster it and get armrests for it. Any thoughts on a brand?

Looking at a Ransomes AR250 with a Kubota diesel. My concern is the 10,000 hours on it. Are these machines good for time after that?

Does anyone know how narrow one could make the rear wheels on a row crop JD60? I am hoping to get it onto a trailer with a fender width of 76".

I am looking at a Howard Price 1260 mower, diesel engine (hoping it is a Yanmar), any thoughts on a unit like this? I know nothing about it, trying to get the hours off of the unit, seems to be in good shape, it is just about the right size for my orchard. I know parts are NOT going to be off...

Sorry if this is not in the right forum, I just don’t know where to put it. I recently bought a 2003 Isuzu NPR crew cab to use for hauling my equipment. 4HE1-XS engine. Decent shape, did run, but has issues. My problem right now is as follows. I drove it home, died. Wouldn’t restart. Used...

The pump is original based on the parts diagram from Case. There is a HUGE oil cooler on this machine and the old hydraulic valve body had three orifices in the ports, probably to eliminate exactly what is happening.

Where did you get the copper blanks? What are they called?

I love the price and set up, but I want to get JIC vs. NPT.

Will this work?

Is there anything that can be placed right on the end of a JIC fitting? There isn't too much room near the control valve. If so, how do you decide what size to put in?

I have an old Case DH4B trencher/excavator combo. Finally got the excavator up and running with the controls in the two joystick SAE configuration. When I run it, the boom drops FAST. Barely move the stick and she slams down. The left and right control is not quite as bad, but it is too...

Found this photo through random searches, but mine is on the column.

True. I don't really know how to adjust it. I have to take apart the entire steering column to replace a hose, rebuild the steering valve, getting the Forward/Neutral/Reverse lever unstuck. The machine has a lever on the upper right dash panel that can be shifted into 3 positions. Middle...

Update: Took the machine outside and gave it a run through the paces. A couple other issues, but some success. 1) I made the mistake of moving all the hoses from the excavator control spool, to the new JOYSTICK spool, one for one, in the same ports, left to right. This gives a very random...

The tank line is shared with the trencher motor return. I think that would give a false positive...... Am I understanding you correctly?

What I am afraid of with this pump, is it shows 2-3hp. Does that mean that's what it needs? Or is that it's capacity?

I should clarify that I wanted the stainless steel motor to use in my cider making operation. It is also a wash down motor, so it should handle the environment well. Once upon a time, I saw one with a pump very similar to this. I don't really need it for too much grime removal or heavy...

Like try to load up a trailer and take a test drive prior to purchase?

That was about as comprehensive as one could ask for!

Anyone have any thoughts on the ability of a 2003 Isuzu NPR 4.8L diesel? I would use it from time to time to haul a skid steer trailer and for the most part, use it to dump loads of soil/wood chips in an orchard. Not looking to haul giant loads, but I just want something a little more...

Above is the picture of the pump, a line can be traced to the three way spool. I am pretty sure that there were 2 ports out and one input line. If that is NOT the case, is it possible to run the backfill blade by tapping into the line that feeds the trencher chain motor? Like a 'tee' at the...

I have a Case DH4B, just got the thing up and running where all the features work except the backfill blade. There are 3 pumps, one runs the forward and reverse hydrostatic transmission, a small one runs the steering and the backfill blade and the third one runs the trencher chain. There are...

Large update. I installed the new hydraulic pump, I plumbed the motor spool to the hydraulic motor, filled the system back up and SHE WORKS!!!!! The chain spins, the hydraulics do what they are supposed to do. I don't have the digging chain back on, but the drive chain works perfect. I...

Is this the one to buy...

I had this posted in Lawn and Garden and I received zero responses, so I am trying this forum to see if I get any traction. Looking to put a decent power washer pump on an all stainless steel, wash down 1 HP motor. It is a 56C frame, 1750 RPM 5/8" shaft, Sterling Electric motor. Very well made...

Attached is my rough diagram of the hydraulic system I am currently retro fitting. I need the lines drawn for what to attach where. Since the old pump had about 6 lines out and the new pump has 2 lines out, things are different. Take a peek at the diagram and if you can fill in any of the...

What should I expect to pay?

Any recommendations on a spool valve for under $150?

Me either, I couldn't find anything about the pump indicating GPM. I'm just guessing because of the tank volume, motor size and hose diameters.

Buying the land is not gonna happen. The property is marginal at best and would need $100,000 in repair/demolition to bring it up to an acceptable level. There are 3 old homes on the property, 2 need to be demolished. 7 out buildings, all need repair or torn down. The property is riddled...

The pump is 23.72 GPM @ 2000 RPM. I went with a large GPM thinking that the flow can be controlled via the spool should it have a flow control feature. I am looking to error on the side of more GPM since it is a cheap foreign made pump. The motor that turns the trencher chain, is VERY large...

Here is what the specs said on the pump, GPM @ 2000 RPM: From 8.39 to 23.72 I assume that the chain trencher will use a fair amount of oil during use, given that the hydraulic tank is pretty large and the capacity of the system is about 15-20 gallons. I assume it needs a lot of oil to run...

I would have no problem doing that, however, the 560 is bone stock and has NO driving lights/flashers to speak of. My Mahindra does and I'm leaning towards using that.

I went and looked at the building again, it has a large double 2x10 main beam/header running the length of the building. I can't get a hold of any 45ft telephone poles, the longest I can get is 32ft. My thought would be to add more bolts to the beam/header to stiffen it up, add another cross...

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/Walvoil-Monoblock-Drive-Valve-510160-Motor-Spool-9-8462.axd Or this unit?

I am thinking this is the diagram to follow, I just don't know where to incorporate the cooling lines.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/Brand-Hydraulics-Directional-Control-Valve-PSDCF755TM6BHY3-9-8609.axd This valve seems like it would work. Has a detent in one direction and spring return on the other. I think if it were plumbed so that the...

Just curious, why is it that farmers are able to move machinery significantly larger than 12ft wide without a permit? They have the SMV triangle and I understand the act of farming has many exemptions, but some machines are ENORMOUS. Are there dates that allow this kind of traffic to roll down...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334669409328?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111451%26meid%3Dbfd48af906cf4f07b5beca2c3b748adc%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D266122118432%26itm%3D334669409328%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DS...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333725154121?hash=item4db391bb49:g:deoAAOSw101fY84I&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8A7Uyc%2BNxcRMVpBoL8ChtsRdYHCaI5xS2iG4w2f3UW4gX1rXz%2BSqyy2vhgvjgU4SSmtUAc1bAse14gaRH3CJ%2B3pmU6lYpZBpVKT7S%2BvKrYJxW4ny21a%2BpryEv2SxTnYz1NskKYPFfly37%2FwM7ab9jxH0h%2FlFp9WQ4JUBO9MT87qqTnNNhTwqLAULj...

Any recommendations for a detent valve?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334320824989?hash=item4dd712f29d:g:ZeIAAOSwk~ZaNXGN&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4N8%2FEmiNZ158PJwMJHldrgPFYUhO6Oe79pqUVu4C16lPDD58iC4XUSiaVIhMmsxg1PdfHrOW9akxVddse%2BUufq291cuT10wGZCligGKW%2FB%2F%2FrRAkorHCwj0uI4S7GVS12gECoH8Ox7ApvwQkg0r9g7i60HZS%2FV8D8VaaUC5mP0%2F662M%2By1n2oqG...

Country Roads. I will need to get a wide load permit.

So, on my site I have a fork lift and a skid steer as well, so lifting it isn't going to be so bad. At least I don't think so. I would love to get a trailer that I can move the whole thing, but I don't know if I can borrow/use it that long. I think if the telephone poles are strapped down to...

I can haul it with my tractor, I'm sure it will do it. The truck is an F350, capacity I think is around 12,000lbs.....I THINK. I'm pretty sure, if I went nice and slow, it can be pulled without issue. The site is not prepped, but it is flat. I was going to move it, leave it on the wagons...

If I only knew 300 people.....and they would work for a can of beer.....

A gentleman not far from my place built a very well made lean-to/pavilion and used it for equipment service. He has passed away and the family wants the property cleaned up, the building included. I can have it for nothing, just get it out. It needs a roof, but it is well made. It is 44ft...

Given that the pump I have is Series 18-2081, how does one figure out if it is SAE-B?

Does anyone know if all hydraulic pumps that have 13 spline shafts are the same diameter? Based on the Danfoos information for my Series 18-2081 pump, it has a 13 spline shaft. Just so I don't have to yank the pump out again, if I knew that most pumps were generally the same, I would order...

I already have this on hand...

The pump I have has a tag on it: 18-2081R LH 87-11-80260 I think it is Case part number: H672705 Not sure how many splines are on it.....I can pull it and find out, any ideas of how one would properly plumb it? A simple hand drawing would be fine.

I have tested the pump with a pressure gauge, it holds 100 psi, it simply shudders between 80 and 100 psi when the lever is pulled to engage the trencher motor. The type of pump in post 89, is VERY similar to the pump that is in the unit currently. I am wondering if I could simply re-plumb the...

Something like this.

Any ideas? I had the thought of removing the existing pump and putting in a new unit. Just a regular direct drive pump and plumbing it to another spool. Use a spool for chain direction. Any thoughts?

Looking to put a decent power washer pump on an all stainless steel, wash down 1 HP motor. It is a 56C frame, 1750 RPM 5/8" shaft, Sterling Electric motor. Very well made, I don't want to spend $400 on a pump. I have seen, in the past, similar motors with small pumps similar to those you see...

I let the spool soak, took as much of it apart as I could, no change. Nothing. No hum, no shudder, not a thing. Must be something else. Not sure what to do.......I am also not sure what to do about the trencher pump/motor situation. I am tempted to pull the console again and remove the pump...

I let the spools soak in HOT water and degreaser. I took as much apart as I could, the longer it sat, the looser it got. 2 out of the 3 will return with ease to the 'home' position. One is still a little sticky, so I have it sitting overnight in degreaser again. Lots of compressed air and...

Any recommendations on what chemicals to NOT use?

If you look at the second photo I posted, there are two small caps that are on the bottom of each spool. I pulled those two out and you can push on a rod that makes the levers move. However, they are sticky and don't always return to the home position. I have solvent siting in the caps now...

I don't think they always move. I have them soaking right now in my solvent tank. I will test again today with air and report.

Does anyone have a recommendation for cleaning or clearing out a spool like this? Replacement is going to be difficult given that it sits down inside of the side of the excavator. Most newer spools have levers mounted much closer to the body itself. This unit has levers that sit 'higher' up...

Which relief valve, I do not know how to identify a/the relief valve

Here are the photos of the spool in question. Here is a list of the problems I have found. 1) When used, NOTHING happens. Another user indicated that the spool might be plugged up or stuck. I began pulling the unit out and I saw something odd. All of the OLD fluid in the machine was RED...

Not sure. I have not pulled the spool apart. All the levers move, but I have not pulled the valve cap. Is it possible that the same thing is wrong with the trencher? Could that spool have a stuck valve? Or is that a different style valve?

Ok, I filled up the hydraulic system all the way and still no change. No backfill blade and no trencher spinning. What I find odd, is the backfill blade still doesn't work. It shares the pressure line that feeds the trencher lift cylinder. The pressure line splits before both control spools...

I am not with the machine, but I will give an update as to what I think is there. If the backfill blade is operated by the same pump as the trencher lift cylinder, they do not share the same return or feed line. The return line is connected to the trencher chain MOTOR. It is hard to see, but...

I think I have a plumbing issue......I'll get some photos and send out a 'path' of what is happening

I should add that my machine is a FRONT BACKHOE, FRONT BACKFILL BLADE and REAR TRENCHER with steering wheel and 2 seats, one seat forward for the backhoe and one for driving and the trencher.

https://spare.avspart.com/catalog/case/68406/40427/ Here is a link to the hydraulic schematics. It shows a selector valve, but I'm not sure how it is plumbed based on the drawing.

So, my assumption is that the pumps operate a number of things, but can't do it all at the same time. There is NO DIVERTER valve. Was it removed? I have no idea. Perhaps someone declared the trencher 'dead' and decided that it could just be used as an excavator and took hydraulics out? The...

I would say that there isn't a big leak in the system. The reason I say that is there are 3 pumps on the drive plate. The left hand pump runs the excavator and the boom lift of the trencher. The middle pump runs the drive wheel and steering. The RIGHT hand pump, our troubled one, runs the...

Yep, it moves. I can see the shaft moving. Both directions, no difference. It is low on fluid, so I am going to add more before I condemn it, but I have a feeling the issue persists. Is it possible that the lever isn't turning the shaft enough? Like it is staying in between neutral and...

No change. The gauge moves just above 100 and that's it

The gauge goes up to 600 PSI, what should I be looking for when I attempt to turn the chain? A drop or a rise in pressure?

Ok, I have oil at the pump via the inlet port, cracked the line and I have 100% flow. I connected a hydraulic pressure gauge into the 1/8 pipe gauge port and the gauge reads between 80-100psi. It bounces between the two numbers. Now I really can't run it through the paces since it its low on...

If I have continued issues with this pump, can you recommend a repair kit? I would give it a try in rebuilding it myself.

I see you are in Northern Illinois, I am in Lake County, do you work on pumps?

Here is a photo of the 1/8 gauge port that I put an elbow in to get a gauge on it.

Here is where it is

Pretty sure it is the pump inlet

A little bit of progress today, pulled the hydraulic tank off, gave it a good cleaning, some debris, not too bad. That gave me access to the pump, pulled the two 1/2 bolts out that hold it against the drive plate and I wiggled it back to see if there was any issue with the splines. Splines...

Ok, I'm usually pretty good at tracking down odd parts, I can't find this seal kit anywhere. I have most of the measurements available through AVSPARE.com, I have crossed a lot of the parts, but for things I can't find, am I able to measure them and look up by size on HW Part Store.

Any thoughts on where to get a seal kit for my leaking cylinder? Below is the link to a kit, but no one has it in stock. I'm betting that most of the seals are generic, but any guidance on getting a kit would be ideal. https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/CASE/CASE/H122234/

Ok, I can see if there is oil heading down to that part of the pump. HOWEVER, right now I have no oil in the machine at all. I am swapping the excavator controls for a 2 joystick control and there was a lot of water in the system. I am opening all the lines I can find at the lowest points to...