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No theories forthcoming from dealer is quite understandable, because your explanation about what is happening is so very confusing. Sorry to hear about your wife, and good to hear she is now okay. It does sound like the tractor will need to be split and then inspection of the clutch problem...

Are you talking about a deck from a round fender 110 or 112 being mounted to a JD 210? I didn't think there was a 46" deck fitted to a round fender, and thought it was a 37" deck. Pics would help of your tractor and decks in question. thanks

Suggest testing the battery (or have it tested) under load. I'm thinking a new battery is due or past due. But also remove and clean all battery cable connections. Easy to do these two things.

"Battery good" ?? How did you check that it was good ??

Maybe you can guide this woman to explore and advertise her "parts" tractor. Could always put it on Craigslist in the "free" section. Might get it "gone" which is likely the real need here.

Welcome to TBN Which transmission ? Hydrostatic or SyncShift ? Sounds like your load match or speed match switches are causing some confusion if Hydrostatic tranny.

Doesn't help the OP answer the question "which fuse goes in which slot ?" Tech manual needed and might try the dealer as they should have access to that information.

Assume you can buy the service tech manual for your model. Have you tried that route?

Seeing some similarity to this junker and the JD 4020 that is shown in this video of a 4020 being overhauled. Might help with your id problem. Screen shot of the likeness that I see.

Possibly a 4000 series in the early 60's, but look for the serial number tag, not at the foundry cast numbers that are shown. This link shows where the s/n and tag should be located (rear behind/below the seat), and includes some info on the series of tractors I refer to here...

I think this link will take you to JD parts for a bagger system for the JD 175. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/22781 Your Deere dealer would also be a good source for information. Craigslist, or Facebook Market place also possibilities.

Welcome to TBN Member oldnslo has good recommendations to start with Your LA is a beauty. I had the LA model back in the day (actually fell in love with the LA when I was just 2-3 years old and neighbor bought a new one in 1941 or 1942 that I would follow around walking in the plow furrow --...

Have you the part number for that connector ? Have you checked with the Deere dealer ? Welcome to TBN

The instrument cluster sets in the instrument panel. To the rear of the hood on the 4600. item key #5 Per attached file https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/4078/referrer/navigation/pgId/596440

Welcome back to TBN. Tell us more about your experience.

I'd find the safety switch and disconnect it. Then, as I did with the neighbors' 430 2-cyl, got it started with PTO engaged and ran it for a while and it finally came loose, after which it worked fine. Maybe that is all that is really wrong here. But cannot tell for sure, based on what has been...

I looked through the pdf and only saw the cover over the openings in the casting on p206. Refers to them as "clutch port" or "vents". No reference that I could find for adjusting the clutch plates through those port holes. I stand corrected on what I believed to be possible.

The bluish color is a sure sign that non-John Deere paint has been used in its past.

You are most welcome, and glad it is working out. :):)

With seeing the condition, and obvious "care" this 420 has had, then I'm going with the $2k as top dollar. Will take at least another $3k to get it looking and likely "running good" again so it has the $5-6k value added back. And there is no PTO brake, I don't believe.

This one has two-stage clutch so essentially "live" PTO power. Mine had single clutch, so added an over-running stub to the PTO. That allowed for stopping the tractor without also having to stop the PTO. In running condition, $5-6 k

Agree with Rj, but why no pics ?

Talking AG tires, which will not likely fit the R4 rims.

Harry in KY said it well, if it is true that the PTO clutch disks are stuck together. It may help. You said you had downloaded the service tech manual. The dual clutch adjustment (not the pedal linkage) should be in that manual. Post a link to it here if you can. Maybe we can lead you from...

The pics you posted in the opening post are the openings that I believe you need to go through to adjust the two clutches. You should poke around until you find the manual (not likely in the operators manual, but the service tech manual) or a video that discusses the clutch adjustment, and not...

Spinning under power? i.e. If the mower (or other PTO attachment) is already connected, will the PTO stop spinning if the clutch is fully depressed ? If just free spinning (no PTO attachment), then maybe needs more clearance adjustment on the PTO clutch or there may be clutch disk fragments...

Hand crank assembly from jd parts, and hope you are zeroing in on the right solution. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/2803/referrer/navigation/pgId/1853358

Fuddyduddy1952 I'm thinking this '50's model 40 doesn't have a clutch fan and new parts are not available. Finding a new nut to fit the threads might also be a real problem. Risk of breaking the cast frame that holds that fan axle in place may be found in a parts house, and might be worth a...

A long ways away, but some on craigslist up Wisconsin way. $700 - $1000 https://madison.craigslist.org/search/sss?purveyor=owner&query=Deere%2054C#search=2~gallery~0

Welcome to TBN You might try some other fluids to see if they will work, but is it really worth it if they don't work the best ? Deere knows so I trust Deere. Cheaper not worth the risk just for a few bucks, to me.

Is yours a dual clutch ?

Maybe it is the 4052R ?

Yes, laying across the mower gauge wheel to get one hand on that slip connector is a stretch, for sure. At least it doesn't require two hands. But removing the wheel may be what I will try too. I have three 54" decks now. When I bought my first 425 in '98, the ease of removing and installing...

A trick to disconnect the PTO slip connector on the non-AWS 425 is to reach it from the rear underneath the transaxle. Doesn't work on the AWS as the steering linkages are in the way. But how long has it been since the joint was greased ?

Not that I know of, assuming you are speaking of the universal joints on that PTO shaft.

Maybe easier to remove that fan bracket (key#4) that the nut is attached to for better leverage (heat ? ). Suspect that large nut is regular rh thread.

Can you post a photo or two of the area ? Been awhile since seeing the two-cyl 420 but have a faint memory of changing the fan belt. Maybe a pic or two will refresh that memory. Member Tx Jim has good experience and may see your post too, as well as others. This video help any ?

Same part number up to S/N 362,*** https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/21113/referrer/search/pgId/1616542/partnumber/AM102869/callout/15

Fuel ? Fuel filter been checked/replaced, and no water in the sediment bowl ? Do you hear the solenoid click and open the fuel shut-off when you turn the key on ? After it sits awhile, and then starts and runs, does it run smoothly or by fits and rough running?

I too suspect the grease is the problem, if the wheels are assembled correctly. Clean them up so they are free of grease and assemble dry. If that solves the problem, let us know back.

Ab Send a PM to who you are asking. May get a better response.

Looks like a good find. Keep us up to date how the starting or loading process goes. Will you try soon?

Welcome again to TBN If Tx Jim has helped as it looks like he has, will you respond with what you do with that help? Tx Jim is a great resource for JD folk on TBN, as he has a lot of real experience and knowledge. You did not give a response to your 2018 quest for help. Always nice to hear...

Welcome "sort of" to TBN Do you have a JD now ? What model ?

TroyChurch Welcome to TBN Hang with us, help to sort through this may come along shortly. Westendorf should be able to help you fit their loader to your model tractor.

If you have access to a press, then it is not a bad job to remove the old and put in new. With the deck belt off, you may be able to detect which of the spindles has the bad bearing by a grinding sound, if there is one. Also may be able to feel the spindle after a mowing session and tell by...

Nope. Not near the framework, engine 18hp, or hydraulics on the 318 garden tractor to do that, I don't believe. Maybe you could attach or mount a DR brush mower to the front of your JD 318 and move it around as it would use its own power to mow the brush.

Maybe broken wire ?? Is it connector 57M11591 ? What is the s/n of the E160 ? Do you find it here on this link to jd parts ? https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/22263/referrer/navigation/pgId/5124

Whatever it takes. Let us know what needs to happen to get it done. Maybe longer bolts when adding it to the weights, or your idea of taping holes. Maybe some steel work to fabricate a hitch that comes out under the weights. Should be able to figure something out that will work for you.

Amazon...

Welcome to TBN Looks that it will be a tough one. Wish you luck.

Could you post a pic of using that lever the way you think it is supposed to work? I don't recall having an issue with belts on either my Dad's 1965 round fender 110 or my flat fender later model 110. But changed all that in 1998 when I went to the model 425. This video may be helpful.

And sometimes double clutching helps move between gears. That is when you clutch in (disengage) to shift out of gear into neutral and letting the clutch out, then clutch in to shift into the other gear followed by the clutch out. The way I had to drive the old 50's trucks and assume it would...

jube Welcome to TBN Think I would try a combination that works for you. And others more familiar than I will likely chime in on how to get up to speed in the road gear that you are looking for.

Bdawg22 Might send RogerH a PM as his post was 19 years ago. Or post what your situation is now that may be a problem you are trying to address. Hope the 4310 is running good for you.

Will the PTO spin under load? Sounds like it will not, but don't know that from what has been said here.

Removing the fender deck will get you to where you need to be, and also a huge opportunity to clean a lot of dust and debris that accumulates over the years, and assuming this is the drive belt to the transaxle and not the drive belt to the mower deck...

Good time for your 14 year old to learn what makes the Gx255 tick. Maybe you as well. Confusing me with "tip it up vertically - take off the operator station". Think the fender deck would be removed and the belt changed from above. But I don't have that tractor. JD parts shows the fender...

Put a lightbulb in the place of the fuse that blows. The light will act as a fuse until you locate the grounded wire in the circuit. Then start moving wires around and unplugging or disconnecting things until you hopefully find the culprit (light goes out). Has been a fuse-saver for me several...

Prolly worth a shot.

Welcome to TBN Have you visited your Deere dealer for the key? Member joecdeere is a lifesaver here. Wish you well getting the 5400 up and going. Would be great to hear back of any success stories as a result of his help.

Pics would help. I have the Deere 513 rotary cutter and don't find it is too big for my '98 4300, handles with no problem. Trying to picture yours that the 4300 struggles with. My 513 is almost 30 yrs old, pulled it with my JD 420 2-cyl for several years.

Mow 6-7 acres now with 54" deck. Prefer the AWS for faster mowing.

Can you put R4's on the same rims? Front turf's are 24x8.5-14, and front industrial (R4) are 23x8.5-12 Don't know what you mean by "wimpy" but do you find they are not adequate in "four wheel drive" when mowing ??

Yes rod key# 27 in the jd parts link, slides out of the key #25 parts, looks like to me.

Welcome to TBN This link to JD parts may be what you are looking for. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/3651/referrer/navigation/pgId/1008425

Should be a great tool/attachment. What do you plan to mount it to ?

Click on the member's name, and there you can send a PM. DeereShane Welcome to TBN

dbritt Don't be jealous of a successful company like Deere..

Welcome to TBN Do you have the manual for your lt166 ? Usually just slide it under, attach the lift linkage, attach the front draft linkage, position the drive belt, and secure belt tightening rod. Manual page 109 mounting mower deck (includes lt166)...

Welcome to TBN Forks for the loader, brush hog for the woods, thumb for the forks, chipper for the brush and small limbs, tiller for the garden or food plots, hydraulic top arm, quick hitch (iMatch) for 3ph, to name a few. All depends on you and what you want to accomplish. Good on your...

Welcome to TBN Post some pics of what you have and what you might plan to do. Give out members something to help them help you. Get on JD parts to see if that may help you some. Sorry that I cannot answer directly. Do you have a pressure gauge so you can check pressure at the quick...

I prefer the R4's for woods work, brush mowing, loader work, and only find them coming up short in the woods when spring thaw leaves the trails a bit muddy. Good for going on the lawn without leaving a mark. All in all, I'd suggest the R4's but have not run the R14's. Hope you find the best tire...

Can only suggest to try different shims to see if thicker or thinner makes a difference. The best to you.

What is important is the circumference ratio of the front tires to the rear tires when in front wheel-assist mode. Something you may want to check into

I just use compressor air to blow off the dust, grass, and debris after mowing (every time !). Will not use water, as I don't want to put the deck away wet. Also do not have covers over the pulley/spindles to hide wet grass. Risk an occasional stick that gets under the belt and throws it off...

Do you plan to use them as a dual to your existing tire?

Welcome to TBN Don't have an answer. Was that cable part number AT19905 ??

Not sure what you mean by "standard" but the 755 should handle most PHD. Might be limited by length of the auger due to wheel size. Can control rate of digging my 3 ph lowering rate.

Welcome to TBN What is rto? What is pro switch ? Maybe typo's, but maybe something else.

Might rig up a pressure gauge that you can plumb in to check which lever goes with which line out. From there, may figure out the rest of them. Or might have to hook up a second one. More work without quick-connects, but should identify what numbers 1 and 2 mean written on the valve. Or just...

Marhar That was a good help note for the OP, and hope tedsan responded somehow to thank you for the complete schematic. Or if it missed answering his question.

The OP has one that the engine starts/runs, but F935 will not move without killing the engine. I recall the condition, but don't recall the safety switch that causes the problem.

Welcome to TBN Wish I could be of some help.

You should expect the dealer to quickly take care of the problem, assuming you purchased it as "new".

Is the PTO in off position? Do you have the manual?

Good, Hope the solenoid solves the problem. Look straight forward to change it out?

First move, I'd suggest changing hyd fluid, as well as the tranny filter AND clean the transmission strainer. Then get the service tech manual if proceeding on your own. Strainer seen here. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/4028/referrer/navigation/pgId/1372078

Your description makes it sound like a clutch problem. But your thoughts make it sound like you think it is an hydraulic fail. Do you have the service tech manual for this tractor? Maintenance history that you know about ...

https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-M154130/dp/B00NYBIZM2 part number M154130 https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/26847/referrer/navigation/pgId/2572468 Any of these help?

In the 27 years of my 4300, don't recall ever even bumping the key where it is located. But doesn't mean it can't happen. Where you have mounted it, not a problem if kept inside out of the weather.

Sounds like the compression release is still the culprit.

Looks like you can order the hoses from Deere, maybe key #34 ? Or find them in this schematic on JD parts. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/3176/referrer/navigation/pgId/8536011 Or taking the failed hose to NAPA might work too.

Battery? Battery cable connections?

Did you get it fixed?

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/20524/referrer/navigation/pgId/1892643 This link should give you all your info about part numbers.

I think I would get it into a higher gear like 2nd and ride around more until it lets go. At least that would be my first attempt. Might be an access point to reach the clutch plates with a long flat blade screw driver. Not sure how the PTO hookup would work, but if the PTO clutch is frozen...

Understand, but which part is a pain? Maybe we can offer some tips, as the 425 has a pretty reasonable method. Granted, my problem is getting down on my knees or kneeling which at 86 doesn't work so well anymore. But that will happen when changing out the steering cylinder too.

Probably would make life easier to remove the mower, but let us know if you manage the job without doing that.

Being it is HST transmission, it will handle the 4' brush hog no problem. Been there, done that. Looks like a good investment with the apparent condition and low hours.

Schematic from JD parts of 650 lowering valve. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/21841/referrer/navigation/pgId/1293348 Page back a couple for the lift cylinder schematics.

Is this a link to the thread suggested? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/4320-coolant-leak-from-timing-cover-advise-please.417998/page-7

Cut them shorter and put in couplers such that they can be made back to original length if ever needed. Or just cut them shorter.

You are saying you have the 3rd SCV function, but no couplings to hook to? Can you tell us more about the 3rd function? Or is it like my 4300, that had the 3rd valve in the valve bank, but I had to add the lines and couplers? Or are you looking to tie into the power beyond lines for the wood...

Welcome to TBN No experience, but know people who have rear mounted snowblowers. They say they are not happy with making winding paths through the woods while driving backwards. Clearing a lot of snow not so bad. One neighbor disliked his rear mounted blower enough to change it for a front...

Pics ??

Agree about having to use a bucket to clear snow, a bummer and no fun at all (for me). It's why I mount a 7' Western plow and move snow quickly. Even piles up snow as the front tires will ride up on the plowed snow. No problem plugging the front grill up with packed snow. Our recent two snow...

https://www.trigreenequipment.com/parts/operator-manuals/ Welcome to TBN

Jg1 Show a pic or two of the present situation, and maybe some helpful ideas will come forth. If me, I think I would start with the fender deck off, and attempt to find a way to tie into and move the linkage system leading up to the foot pedals. Sure hope you find a way to adapt to getting...

5030 You don't really understand. Lots of pitfalls for the customer that tries to repair their own and then finds a part they bought and thought they needed, or the "fix" they thought was going to work, and then it doesn't.. leads to blaming the mfg because it doesn't work. Parts are too...

Assume the battery needs replacing. But take it for load testing first, but expect it won't pass a load test. Good luck.

Welcome to TBN Please summarize for us, what symptoms are you finding, and history of the tractor leading up to these problems. What checks out and what does not. Thanks. TBN will work to help you out.

Absolutely no problem starting my Yanmar engine in the 4300. Seldom use the intake manifold heater unless below zero F deg. Always pops on first rotation of engine since new in '98. Have heard that turning the steering wheel while cranking reduces hydraulic oil pressure which aids in easier...

Correct, but also the joy stick will tilt your grapple that is attached to your FEL (front end loader). Just like dumping the bucket when it was used. A trick, I found, was routing the hydraulic lines from the rear end of the tractor to the front of the loader. Disconnects needed if removing...

The FEL will raise and lower, and tilt using the joy stick and those 4 ports you mentioned. The grapple will open and close using the lever pointed out to you showing the cylinder in and out. You will have those two hydraulic lines running from the rear ports in your first photo to the cylinder...

kennyd Great lesson and patient explanation. It's what TBN is all about, being helpful to the members. Fred's pics were very helpful in pointing it out. Thanks Fred.

And the answer is now in reply #8 https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/stop-and-engine-information-indicator-lights-after-rebuild.533086/

Fred Show us what you have in the cab.

Appears to me you have a 3rd SCV capability. What are your controls like ? A button on the joy stick? or another control lever in the cab? More photos please. kennyd beat me to it.. ;);) I use mine to operate a thumb on the forks as well as re-plug to operate an hydraulic top arm on the 3ph.

TreeZ Welcome to TBN Interesting problem. Good question for members here.

The OP is looking for different answers, and duplicated this thread question. To avoid confusion, https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/stop-and-engine-information-indicator-lights-after-rebuild.533086/

Why are you starting a whole new thread as a duplicate to a previous one? Are you looking for different answers? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/%F0%9F%9B%91-stop-sign-on-instrument-panel.531693/

I too added tire pressure to the rear tires that are filled with windshield washer fluid in '98 to stop some leakage around the rim of one rear tire. Not a lot more pressure, but it stopped a very minor bleeding of fluid at the tire bead. Don't consider it to be overinflating at all. Kicked it...

If I understand "logcabin" correctly, then fluid should be above the cap. Isn't there a drain plug (key item B in oldtimer's reply #16) also just above that cap implying that is where the lubricating fluid resides? Not understanding which "seal" is being referenced.

Might be the breather was found to be a good upgrade on the 4320 axle after seals leaking without a breather.

I don't think there is a single part # for a kit or complete parts package for the model 430 bucket level indicator. I looked up the part numbers shown for the pipe bracket and rod. Found the rod with bend to be available for $92 and the "pipe" the rod goes through on Amazon for $106. Suggest...

Different for the small loaders and the larger 430 and 460 loaders. Part numbers in JD parts. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/462/referrer/navigation/pgId/2046172

Removing likely offers better access so makes the task easier. Not a major job to remove. Just go slowly and carefully.

Don't see a harm to that. My 4300 HST doesn't have a neutral safety switch. And see no need for it.

Do you have the service tech manual for the 6430?

How low was the air pressure in the tire when the leak started? Low pressure may have caused the rim/tire seal to break enough to allow the Rimguard to ooze out. Observe how 50 psi solves the problem. But also, you may have a leak in your tire.. Now is the time to keep an eye on it at 50 psi to...

Got it, thanks. Has the locking wire.

It is the economy, hope you didn't expect too much. JD made those models to cover the market share of the cheap to the expensive models of many different brands.

Have the wire or have the snap ring? We'd like know, thanks And slip in a link to that old thread.

Suggest you load test the battery and clean the battery cable ends (both). Let us know if still dead in the water.

Here is video with lift cylinder wire involved.

A video that may help. But think that dimple is for a lift cylinder wire in lieu of the snap ring shown in this video. https://shop.deere.com/us/product/H169902%3A-Bucket-and-Lift-Cylinder-Wire/p/H169902

Does it have the wire threaded in there to lock it?

When my 4300 started showing some leakage, that is when I started loosening the dip stick at the filler hole in the front axle housing. Reason is that the leakage happened when the oil expanded due to heating up during use and caused the leakage. Some have installed a vent to account for that...

Depends if selling or buying.

Pump seal kit? First identify which kit you need, and see your JD dealer. Or look up online. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/4478/referrer/navigation/pgId/2206411

Any idea what failed? Or it just quit working? Are you certain it just needs a cylinder?

The cat's out of the bag now, and it may not be available if you hesitate any more. ;);)

And you couldn't match up the different cylinders shown in the JD parts link to tell which one needed?

All wheel steer? Do you have the service tech manual? What is the serial number? https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/20768/referrer/navigation/pgId/1742493

How much of it are you changing out? Looks pretty straight forward to remove it but must be something not apparent to you. What might it be? A photo and some arrows will help us help you out.

paulsharvey It's a Deere, not a Kioti. ;););):)

Your John Deere is self priming. Just keep trying to start it as it may run/stop/run/stop several times before it stays running. It's a Yanmar engine At least that is what I've done twice now that it ran out of fuel. My issue (at least my excuse) is the fuel gauge shows almost 1/4 tank when in...

Welcome to TBN From your image, it appears to me that the shaft will slide out(once the quick-lock pin is removed) to the left far enough to remove the 4 bolts holding the tranny filter. May not be seeing it correctly. Have you tried it and it doesn't go far enough without removing one wheel?

Maybe time to consider trading that one in for something else.

gentryg Welcome to TBN. You might also want to send a message to the OP Logan for that answer.

Because the noise is gone when the belt is removed? Is the tractor at the dealer now?

I don't have a problem when using ethanol-free gas just parking them all for the winter in a non-heated shed. Most, in my opinion, are just a "feel good" expense.

Go to John Deere and get the correct service manual without the risk of 3rd party risks. But do as you want.

So related to engine rpm, not to transmission or forward or reverse movement ?

Missed what you said, due to typo ??

Thanks for closing this out with report of the problem and the fix. Good to hear the Bandit60 is back in business.

This your valve? https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/7600/referrer/navigation/pgId/3010937

Go to your John Deere dealer. Or is that who is asking for "all" of your information? Not understanding your plight. What/which "internet" sources are you having a problem with?

Have pics of the damage? I've found that for cracks in the plastic that heated staples work quite well to stitch the cracks together and they have held up well. Showing crack in JD 425 side panel repaired fairly well using this staple kit that melted staples into the plastic. Wanted to get...

Welcome to TBN Service tech manuals available through Deere.

I understood the first screen cleaning to be a time to catch the filings and debris from the manufacturing process of all the parts and after the first 50 hours not as necessary. My 4300 first screening was around 100 hours and the screen was not completely plugged, but had plenty of steel and...

Maybe this will help. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/21434/referrer/navigation/pgId/1484512

Great to get to the bottom of this, and hope that is the good ending. Thanks for coming back and letting us know. Success, no matter how simple, is good.

Maybe some more info would help. Not sure what "broke down" really means.

Tx Jim showed the years for the s/n and you also can find it and more at this link. https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/006/9/8/6989-john-deere-b.html Try (carefully) some paint remover on the tag to read the s/n. Suspect that will reveal the numbers.

A parking brake and putting tractor in Park are two different things. Park is like a gear being engaged.

Had me worried for you until I realized you didn't finish this sentence, and say remove the tranny cover, which is better than removing the transmission. Hope you see an obvious problem when you remove that cover.

I think you will need to first understand just what is "stuck" that won't let you release "park". Maybe JD parts will offer up that info in the parts schematics. Or maybe someone will see this that knows from your description what is the actual problem.

Broken wire ? somewhere ? Any history of past things that have happened that may give you a hint where to look?

Pics of your results?

Good on you Tx Jim That fits well with the "grill" in the image, better than the 1020. The three cylinder should be easy to check out when seeing the tractor again. https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/7/70-john-deere-1520.html

Also think a JD 1020 from Dubuque and pic confirms it is a 1020, to me. 4 cylinder diesel. Curious if that is a molded weight added ahead of the grill.

Can you post a photo of the tractor? Welcome to TBN

Believe I found where mine is located in my JD 4300. Just to the left side of the fuse panel protruding out of a wiring harness.

Welcome to TBN Which part of the draft linkage do you need? You can likely get the individual parts from a Deere dealer, and pick out the part numbers from this link to JD parts and order online through a search...

How old is the fuel supply? Chance of contaminated, sludgy, or old fuel? Last filter change? Bring us up to date on the history of your fuel.

Looks like you are well equipped and all set. Assume your manual gives any particulars that you need to operate.

Or you can place a vacuum suction hose on the fill port to hold the tranny oil in while changing out that screen. Works great. (with the vacuum running of course :):):) ). Welcome to TBN codydean10

The 4300 (predecessor to the 3520) does not. Maybe the 3520 does. Your thought of the dash cowl is a good one, and I'd go into the fuse door as well. It's in there somewhere. ;);)

Weave your way into the throttle handle pivot system where there is a friction adjustment. On my 4300, that was not easy but somewhat straight forward picking apart what you can remove. Link to JD parts...

The JD 430 is between 32 and 40 years old. Can't expect Deere to re-stock parts in their warehouses forever. And what is left in stock, should indeed bring a higher price due to value.

coosa To me, "cranking" just means it will turn the engine over, but starting the tractor engine is another thing. So not sure I understand what is really happening when you state it will "crank the engine ok for the rest of the day" ?

Red RV antifreeze, as I understand, is just for the RV plumbing system and not recommended for coolant in internal combustion engines as it does not contain the protective additives.

Drawbars normally are able to angle off to the left or right depending on the equipment pulled. Depends on the desired tracking of the equipment with respect to the centerline of the tractor, in your case the 110 TLB. There is a center pin to the front, and other pins are dropped in the rear of...

Looks awesome, and thank you for sharing the effort you put into the restoration and the results.

Welcome to TBN As this referenced post is 11 years ago, you may benefit with an answer if you send a personal message to MGADon.

Welcome to TBN, but please don't post duplicate posts. ;)

Have not found it yet either. Do you have a 3ph lift? What other pieces of equipment might you have, or who may have been on your property with something that dropped this part? May not have anything to do with a tractor or piece of equipment, and just is a blind "nut" for a rod or bolt.

Did you start another duplicate thread for this problem?

No problem.

You mentioned this was the second 445, so you have been getting along without a service manual on that one? They are good to have. By chance might you need to bleed that carburetor plug, which we have to do when running out of fuel? When I had my 445, that plug caught me off guard once.

Welcome to TBN Hope others see your situation and can chime in to get you some help, or ideas to check something out.

Welcome to TBN This link is to JD parts, and maybe you can point out which orings you are trying to replace (assume key#20), and which part you are trying to remove. Maybe the schematic will help you. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/7619/referrer/navigation/pgId/1534748

Have not noticed lack of lifting power with my JD 4300. Have significant ballast and rear wheel fluid, and still can lift enough with the loader to bring the rear wheels off the ground. Had a couple occasions to operate similar size hp New Holland and Kubota loader tractors without near the lift...

Which John Deere model is this and which "knob" did you open?

Welcome to TBN. Hopefully member "thepumpguysc" will see this and offer his valuable expertise.

The JD 4100 is in a different model line-up from the 4200, 4300, 4400, 4500, 4600, and 4700. The 4100 is a basic Yanmar painted green, iirc.

JC What tractor model? The Yanmar YM186D ?

Welcome to TBN Not sure I follow what the "challenge" is, but apparently you have a reason to be concerned that the fluid is over-full. (or is there an apparent problem of being over-full?). If no problem, then I would leave it be, knowing that there is enough fluid to keep the sight glass...