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So, your V packing (chevron) sets are very peticular about stack height. Too much and it squashes out too much, too little and they don’t seal. V packing needs to have just a smidge of correct tension to perform right. Most OEM seal kits with V packing sets have the correct squish up...

Yep, thermoplastic non conductive hose only if it’s going thru the boom. If its on the lower controls it’s ok to use wire hose but most bucket trucks are hosed with the same material to make it easy to rehose.

Yes, there should check valves after both pumps to prevent back feeding thru the pump you are not using. This assuming both pumps are feeding a separate set of control valves.

Those are known for eating motor brushes if running for long periods of time, they were designed for momentary use. The suction line fittings look skimpy, the pump may be having a hard time trying to pull oil from the reservoir, thus starving the gear pump and shortening it’s life. They made...

Looks to be a Monarch dc drive pump (Bucher Hydraulics now). The orange thermoplastic line would be your pressure output, the other with the elbow suction line, the smaller tubing line the return to tank if the built in relief valve bypasses to tank. These units I’ve seen used for emergency...

“Easy to fix for me, just cut off the end and silver braze a common end on and crimp a new hose on it. Yes it should have an Oring on it.” I use female braze ons to make crimp hoses if clearance is an issue.

I have conversion adapters for those, it will allow making standard hoses, measure the thread dia, TPI and pm me for more info.

For me….a tractor without a FEL is just a slow ride to the mailbox :ROFLMAO:

Mike, that’s exactly what happened to me but it was in the frigid cold weather, I suspect some snow/ice froze it or the rusty spring return was a bit sluggish. Which reminds me, time for another good dose of WD-Fixall.:ROFLMAO:

“I assume these cylinders can be repaired. Is that right? My little John Deere was made with a cylinder that was welded shut at both ends.” Yes, assuming your local hyd shop is capable and ambitious

Yes

If the spools don’t bind when the bolts are loose you need to get that apart and do it right. If they bind up after loose they ruined some of the housing sections or bent spools (check with dial indicator)

Common issue from a fresh repair, if any rust (very common) or grit between the sections will warp the valve section during torque up. The spools are machined to super tight clearances (less than .0005” sometimes) and one small speck of sand can bind up the valve. We use a new flat stone...

Just now seeing this…….bring the rod all the way out, then tap the gland (and the piston will follow) in about 1-1.25”…… you’ll see a around retainer in the groove, take it out…….then slam the whole rod assy out using a chunk of steel stock in the rod eye.

Joea99, if you were closer I could bend and flare steel lines while you wait, I have .250” to 1.500”. Some types of stainless tubing doesn’t like to bend or flare, you would need to specify annealed tubing.

https://www.psifluidpower.ca/customer/docs/SKUDocs/v20-service-and-parts-manual.pdf V20

In my work crossover relief settings on elec plow pumps (Meyers, Western, Fisher ect) are set at 3000psi. Main system relief only needs 16-1700 psi to do lift and angle functions

They are used for top links in case of valve spool internal leakage. Using that pilot operated check valve will do you no benefit in this application.

No, what you need is a cushion valve, aka crossover relief valve. But it doesn’t work very well with a single double acting hyd cylinder unless the cyl has a double rod. A pilot operated check valve is used primarily for work holding when a hose blows.

I’m still having the same issue on my iPad, for some reason my iPhone is not affected (yet). I get the “You’ve won…” add and it makes viewing TBN unusable.

Check to make sure your 3ph lever is not in the extreme raise position. It’s easy to bump it getting on/off seat.

Same here on my iPad. Really annoying

Hyd gauges are most accurate in the middle of the scale, I like 5000psi for most systems but add a quick connect to change guages.

The guy just won’t give it up. About the only thing he learned is how to take in free money.

Along this thought…….there’s a sign I’ve been wanting to post in my shop. “We love all our customers going through our door, some when they come in…..others when they leave” :ROFLMAO:

Navvet, after you get it out have your hyd shop cut at piece of hyd rod stock for a pin. It’s made from 1045 medium carbon stock and will work nicely. You might get lucky and he has a chunk in the scrap bin.

First I’d try the sawzall blade between the cyl and frame, using another person to constantly dribble water on the blade. Lennox makes a diamond grit blade if its hardened but doubt that one is. Second I would try a 90 lb pavement breaker and lots of air (1.00” air hose). Third, an Oxy-lance...

Those are used on several good sized engine lathes. The 5MT will fit the larger 26x120, 20hp. The 4MT works for the 21x60 15hp CNC lathe. Used mainly for opening up solid stock to make glands and collars before boring/threading etc...

I hate regrinds too, but sometimes you just need to get the job done at the moment. I have worn out two drill doctors, not sure but seems like the plastic housing wears and cuts the point wrong. Years ago I picked up a Sterling drill grinder and it works awesome above 1/2” to 2 1/2”.

Taiwan machines are great. My second one getting it’s official re-commissioning from the factory boyz this next week.

I don’t mind back dragging at all…it’s good for business😉 this one was bent in two directions, and even needed some gland work too.

KWentling, also the IHCP comes only in higher tensile strength at 100ksi. Many non hardened is 50k, 75k and 85k.

Case 580’s and other heavy equipment manufacturers use hyd valves with work port reliefs set at different values to protect the cylinders from induced loads. Although they can still bend a hyd rod it’s not as common compared to tractor cylinders with no work port relief.

Japanese (and British) 1/4” and 3/8” pipe threads are 1 thread per inch off. Be wary of accidentally mixing them up, it could be a thread crash. (1/4”-18 vs 1/4”-19….etc)

A test for the pump with a proper flow/load meter will tell you quick if your pump is ok. You could have a relief valve problem but having to rev up to make any pressure usually leads to a worn pump on older equipment.

https://www.google.com/search?q=51551+wix+micron+rating&rlz=1C9BKJA_enUS673US676&oq=51551+wix&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i512l2j0i22i30l3.4578j0j7&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 it’s a 10 micron filter element, that’s pretty fine when used for a suction filter anywhere. Older Gear pump...

FWIW, I have seen some old Gresen spin on filters that were actually 100 mesh screens internally when opened up. Maybe someone down the line mistakenly replaced one of these with a paper type normal everyday return line filter element. That said I don’t like paper element filters used on the...

Might have blown the piston seal in that cylinder. Maybe time for a repack job.

BTW, turning the shaft by hand easily usually indicates a worn geroler section, not good

Fancy test machines are avail but unlikely to be cost effective for testing small low speed high torque motors individually. Testing on the lift with flow meter at the exhaust/return port and inducing a torque load should show adequate results (this assuming main pump is good and efficiency...

Yep, I see why they are not repairable, they crimped the two base covers on the barrel. I see plenty of air cylinders with the same setup.

Any pics of said accumulator?

Hmmm, never seen or heard argon used for this application. I’ve only used dry nitrogen when doing recharges.

FWIW, I believe they are not suppose to ship precharged nitrogen accumulators via mail or ups for safety reasons. (?) Compressed gas (in this case dry nitrogen) is considered hazardous or dangerous and either restricted or prohibited. So your local recharge place might be handy when the new...

Depending on where you are, there are deals to be had if you know what you want and willing to jump in the truck and drive asap to look and put a deposit on decent mills. I bought this Sharp 3hp, varispeed, R8, Mitutoyo DRO, power feed on table, Kurt vise ready to work for $1500. It was running...

Metal work is like simple arithmetic: Add……..welding subtract……machining Multiply…….cnc Divide……….cut off saw A decent vertical turret Bridgeport type mill and a metal lathe will help with the subtraction. And once you have a mill your old drill press will become a dust collector. Lots of...

Pixguy, we have an opening in the welding bay….;)

In July I signed up for A, B, D and G. When comparing price my new monthly costs to my previous BC/BS plan at work it’s a $800 month raise for me. And I won’t need the $3500 deductible out of pocket if the fit hits the Shan. That’s more fishing money:ROFLMAO:

Ya did well Jim, Happy Splitting

Best to practice with similar scrap metal before making any welds on your project. Always easier to weld it only once, Unwelding and redo can be a uuuge nightmare. Grinding out inside corners and inside 90’s is a great way to make more scrap. Always tack things in areas easy to grind out if...