Search results

depends which way your flail rotates standard rotation or reverse.

thank you to everyone here that provided info. It is nice to have both sides of the story. one guy who was willing to try and be successful and the other guy warning others about the dangers of all the little details. it just means there is more info for the reader to decide if he wants to...

i'm willing to bet the 800 hours valve clearance check was not done. adjusting clutch and brake pedal wouldn't hurt. front axle pivot adjustment is at 600 hours. like someone else mentioned, all fluids and filters on a new to you machine.

that manual should cover all the 40 series grand L's. HST, GST, gear, and 2wd and 4wd. I asked my dealer a few technical questions and the parts guy sent me a PDF version of the manual by email free of charge so I got lucky. it is worth trying.

I think the draft lever does not control sensitivity. like others have said, where you hook the top link controls "sensitivity" the draft lever just controls how much the plow moves when the "draft control" is activated by the forces on the top link. sorry but I still don't know which way to...

one more thing to note is that the hst pedal, cruise control lever and the swashplate position sensor all appear to be the same sensor according to the service manual so you could probably swap the pedal sensor with the cruise sensor and see if the problem goes away.

from your description, sounds like the pedal's "zero" or Neutral is shifted. I would start with the roller bearings and linkage before removing sensors and maybe breaking delicate plastic things.

if you do replace the sensor there is a "calibration" procedure

that is the text from the manual and when you look at the sensor connector with the shaft that rotates facing down the pins are in order across the top 5, 6, 7, 8 hope the description helps. adobe free version doesn't let me do an extract of the page and save it as a file.

sensor is on the pedal, resistance should move smoothly from 1K ohms to zero If you have a service manual it is in the electrical section page 9 s49 HST Pedal Sensor, Cruise Lever and Swashplate Position Sensor 1. Measure the resistance between terminal B (7) and GND (8). 2. Measure the...

You may have to blast some poop off the underside to check the roller bearings but I think the sensor is on top of the floor board on the pedal assembly.

you don't have a cable for movement. the only cable is going to the injection pump for the auto throttle which you say works well. the 40 series is controlled by sensors in the pedal assembly. what range are you in because I find mine takes more movement to move in H range than in M range...

Mine has a slotted PVC pipe clamped onto the cylinder to protect the rod from any debris that might fall on it. Not very solid but it hasn't broken yet. open on the bottom so any water that finds it's way in does not collect.

Mine uses two ball valves. yes my cylinder is very small I think rod is 5/8's I believe. I piggy backed onto Fallon's thread here, Pics are on page 4 https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/power-ssqa-control-manual-diverter-valve-or-what-other-options.387972/page-4 that is an...

i'm curious as well as to the reason. If it worked for you than that's great. Sometimes challenges come up and how we adapt to them within the constraints of the project make all the difference.

keep an eye on the leak it will get worse and eventually turn into a gusher and may end up running the transmission dry and ruining the tractor. I dont know if the L45 is the same but paul shorts has a video about the roller bearings on the linkage getting stiff and causing issues. having...

I see why someone would want a paper parts catalogue but I prefer the online version because you get the latest version with superceded parts and the latest info and it is relatively easy to print out a copy of what you will be working on before your hands get dirty.

the sky is the limit with that design. you could do a wrap around headlight protector as well and protect the front of the hood. Only disadvantage is time consuming to build but If you enjoy doing it. Nice work

about the bridge with the beams sideways. unless there is some specific dimensional reason to do that you really are loosing a lot of the beam capacity. the beams I used were 6" wide and 6" high so I had no difference. It obviously worked for you and with light traffic its fine. but why...

took me twenty minutes to figure out how to pull apart the damn electrical connector on the first light then the other light took about 2 minutes to do. I don't do enough night work to justify the 200$ for the front lights so I did just the back but it really is a huge difference...

I did a hydraulic one with tee's on my third function. I did not use a relief valve but I am very careful about alignment when I actuate it. I used ball valves to shut off the cylinder when the third function is needed. since you have to get off anyways to hook up the hoses I just flip the...

On my bridge, the one beam that failed had disintegrated enough that i couldn't really tell where it had failed but the other beam was still nice so I am leaning towards a bad spot in the wood. I had to get wood out in the fall so I kept driving over it after it failed. Mine is more of a...

with the price of lumber nowadays you will regret having skimped and having to redo it in 5-10 years will negate any cost savings. I wish I had done steel beams the first time. hearing you guys mention beams I think mine were w6 x15. they are 6 inches high by 6 inches wide about 3/16 to 1/4...

I built a similar bridge 10 foot span, out of two 8x8 hemlock beams and 2x8 hemlock decking about 10 years ago. at the time I had my b7800 and it worked OK but over the years one beam failed due to rot. I just rebuilt it with steel beams doubled up so i used two steel beams per side so four...

I think it might be hard to burn a log jam in a flooded creek but after the waters recede maybe. might be hard to keep it from burning the bridge at the same time. a mini ex with a thumb would be just the ticket. we all need excuses for more toys.

Thanks for updating the thread. So you took it all apart, shrugged and put it all back together and it worked. I hate when that happens but atleast it wasn't an expensive fix and just cost you some of your time.

check the split pin in the bottom of the clutch housing. the input shaft seal has a tendancy to leak and requires splitting the tractor to do it. they usually leak at low hours and apparently there are upgraded parts available from kubota so it has probably already been done on that tractor...

I wouldn't mess around with more "outer wear" on the filter unless you have a paticularly dusty operating conditions. Most of our tractors have a primary and secondary filter. The large primary filter gets cleaned per the owners manual instructions and replaced as needed after X amount of...

Thanks for the reply. Didn't think to look at the parts catalog.

just scrolled through the engine section of the service manual and it really does look like they put it behind the loader mount on the right side. it is not identified in the picture I saw it in but it looks similar. anyone done this before and knows if I can get the valve cover off without...

Hey guys, just getting ready for the 800 hrs valve adjustment on my L4740 Kubota and I can't seem to find the timing window. Unless it is hidden behind the right side loader mount which would just about be the worst place to put it. workshop manual isn't really clear about its location other...

It looks like you need to crank the adjusters all the way in for transport. perhaps pulling the pin and using the other hole (brackets) up front would be faster. they do look nice and solid, I wouldn't expect anything less from EA.

any chance the "Barb" broke off the check valve and thats why you didn't see it. It may be still in the hose.

forgot to also mention that they do not interefere with radio reception but they are on the back and the antenna is on the front for what its worth.

thanks for posting the attachment as a thumbnail. what I like about these is the fact that they are plug and play and that they actually look factory. they have the same shape as the factory lights only with way more output.

Here is a before and after comparison of the tl3240 stock replacement LED lights. these are plug and play with the kubota connector just bought two to do the back since they get used the most when clearing snow but after seeing the difference I may get two more to do the fronts. I got these...

not sure about the connections but that is the nature of the beast especially on small compact tractors. They just don't have the hydraulic flow to run a splitter very fast especially one with a large cylinder. I don't think you will get more speed out of it by changing where you tap into...

I see so your hoses would remain attached to the third function qd's and you would just switch the other end to either the grapple or the SSQA. thats another way of doing it. All I know is that it makes my life way easier. especially since my tractor with snowblower is a tight squeeze in...

you have to remember that a gallon of concentrate will make two gallons of coolant and 1 gallon of premix is 1 gallon of coolant so for the same price you get twice as much coolant for the extra price of 1 gallon of distilled water (couple of bucks). thats why I mentioned that coolant companies...

found the thread, pics are on page 4. I guess I never posted the video. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/power-ssqa-control-manual-diverter-valve-or-what-other-options.387972/page-4

I did it on my tractor but I used a set of valves and tees. I have a third function with the valves open the third function locks and unlocks the ssqa. with the valves closed the thrid function operates the attachement. If you forget to close the valves when the grapple stops opening the ssqa...

I'm interested in the outcome as well, maybe the OP is too busy to update the thread

I use john deere cool gard. they say it is good for five years so I did all my liquid cooled equipment in 2020 so intervals are easy to remember now. I buy the concentrate and mix with distilled water it comes out cheaper that way. but my local dealer doesn't stock any so they have to order...

If the encroaching items are on your property I guess you can "clean them up" and make them disappear I bet that solves the problem.

I would try and reach out to kubota about their micron rating on their filter. if the spin on filter was 2 microns than having a pre filter at 10 micron would be fine but if it is 80 micron like 5030's... spin on fuel filters are definitely different part numbers according to messicks for the...

ok so you replaced the OEM separator with the racor unit. and kept the original spin on filter. So the racor unit couldn't fit in the stock location of the separator?

they probably should have kept the standard paper filter in the separator and added the spin on filter. I wonder if it interchanges with the metal mesh one. as long as you change it regularly it shouldn't cause any issues with restriction of flow. Is the lift pump before or after all these...

Nice work. so the fuel systems are quite different on the 60 series compared to the 40 series. So If I understand you correctly the 60 series has a metal strainer in the water separator and then a spin on filter in the fuel system. My 40 series just has a paper element in the water...

i'm about 3 hours away in the eastern townships

so somewhere in the Beauce. Your english is pretty good. I found my tractor in saint-georges. Had been looking for 2 years for a clean one.