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couldn't believe it when i looked to check oil. everything is sensor driven.

my sister's beemer at least decade old doesn't have engine dipstick...relies on sensors, etc. bs to me

why not a full synthetic diesel rated 5/40 to cover your bases?

good point. also, w/a 7' blade extending over the rear wheels...can sometimes lead to trouble snagging trees, fence posts, etc unknowingly

agree w/above post. OP: whatever blade you purchase, consider a hyd top link if you have the rear remote. being able to fine tune soil engagement tools is very helpful & can avoid frustrating multiple passes. prob safer too since you adjust engagement setting whilst on tractor... good luck...

rock solid, tires & sheet metal looking good. had a TO 35 for 28 yrs, but yours is a notch up the vintage ladder

like the vintage 850, a hoss, OP: update progress

sounds like you know your machines. not to distract from OP's thread, post some pics of your inventory, regards

rubbing compound & finish w/ carnauba wax, Mothers is very good, sheepskin buffer pad is a good finish

take care on the slopes, lot of hog weight on a lightweight tractor, & keeping the knives sharp will be your friend

roger that dude

w/only 5 acres, mow multiple times during growing season. i don't like the chemical approach, esp give small acreage & you don't make a living off it.

agree, feel MX series is a good compromise compact utility tractor more capable overall than B, L, & smaller series. the Grand L is for a pocketbook other than mine for what you get M series in a league by itself...

had a TO35 for 28 yrs. & yes, my own needs have evolved as yours. it did take a few "upgrades" for me to finally arrive at a suitable model. hopefully the OP won't have to go through as an expensive a journey as it was for me. one thing for sure: a test ride on the dealership's lot is no...

maybe define your current needs in more detail, & project future projects. choose a tractor for those needs, then go with the next size up. weight is as important as hp. 4wd & fel goes w/o saying. so it's not just "replacing the 8n". keep it, foresee your needs while still using the vintage...

always pays to do the homework & posting here. good decision making process rather than regret after the fact :-) & you can always "upgrade" the iron horse at any time. continue to post progress & status of the tractor. cheers

sorry i really couldn't help, i couldn't find utube split vid of your model tractor. so are both hyd drive gears available before you start work? & are you set up to split a tractor (i never did)? safety 1st, you know that, helper would be handy, still think would be worthwhile if...

Belarus is known for premature clutch failures. since it involves the same procedure, scour utube for your tractor clutch replacement vid, or just google. may as well replace clutch assembly as well once split. hope the job goes smooth, welcome to the forum. if the drive train is still good...

yes, address the infestation before it consumes the wiring, good point. bucket over stack is no brainer

interesting discussion. still don't know OP's location, & why the infestation is so prevalent in the area. what makes certain locations prone to gopher infestation? & once worked over for your hay production, will gophers return annually like a garden pest only to be dealt with again? only...

with you on the rough ride. interesting history to your place & that's been in previous owners for so long. don't think you mentioned your location. so is this infestation common in your location? good luck

probably so. lot of acreage to exterminate/ treat, hope the OP continues to post the progress, regards

The 1st question would be does the OP intend to make this a money maker. Or is it just personal ambition. he's smart to do the homework & post in the forum beforehand. My mt neighbors sometimes shake their heads when they see how much i put into my place w/o financial return. But i won't...

sounds like a lot of work & expense for the return. if you poison now & soil prep, how do you know they won't be back on the hay field later on like the feral hogs are around here? interesting project though, & best in your efforts.

service manuals are avail online for around $35. have you called your NH dealer service dept? how easy would that be.

OP: good work on your step project. has the step low ground clearance posed any problems? regards

sounds like an effective method. i'll start out at lower pressure as it will purge a tankless & don't want to disturb any sensors, etc. prob 20-30 psi. water pressure is around 50lbs max. it's a short run under the sink. this thread helped out a bunch. regards

thanks to the info in this thread lead me to the simplest adapter shrade/3/4 pipe thread thanks for input on this

another good post for my challenge. i can basically gravity drain my system under sink as the pump house is below the cabin. but pockets remain such as tankless water heater reservoirs. during the outage the reservoirs froze solid necessitating new purchase ($600, ouch). so i will need to...

good point! my cabin is remote & don't live there full time. rural electric is unpredictable & was w/o service for 10 hrs. a generator household setup would be the way to go w/auto setup, but really don't want to go to that expense, time, etc. my plumbing setup is entirely under sink & simple...

my cabin plumb is simple, basically under the sink. sounds like i'll need to install a fitting inline, 3/4 pipe thread or hose thread for adapter? assume compressor psi should be same or lower than normal water pressure? should have researched this decades ago. main challenge is when there's...

thank you, didn't even know they were avail

My cabin took a big hit when the elec failed during extended sub zero temps. heat lamp under sink works great when there's power, but i lost a tankless water heater & pipes in the aftermath w/o power for many hrs. The supply from the pump house is below cabin, so a purge in extremes would be...

check for rodent damage as well

rather than compressed air that could damage paper element, i use a leaf blower. the tube fits into the filter (outer) & i blow inside out. it is a HVLP solution for me.

a good tool for a morbid task

all good points. tooth bar does help to "shave" rather than excavate.

Honestly they are not made to dig. scootr yes to this, esp w/smaller compacts...

am particularly interested in this thread as i will be selling my machine when i sell out. debating whether to go 10% commission to my dealer for the sale, or private local sale. am skeptical of selling to buyer online out of state. too much room for scams. OP: keep us posted on what sale...

in terms of loaning equipment, when i get requests, i say sure, you can borrow my tractor with driver (me) anytime. this way you can be generous & respectful of your own equipment at the same time. agree just to drain the contaminated fuel. regards,

been slinging 5 gal fuel containers for decades. bit pricey, but this 12v pump works wonders https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXGMP92/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do have to "fast idle" (1600-1800 rpms) my engine when it's colder than -30F or else sitting there long enough at normal idle speed, the engine will get completely cold (Like temp gauge on the C peg) Slowpoke Slim what sort of tasks are you doing at -30 with your tractor? regards

at some pt my TO 35 was converted to 12v as well. not sure if it's still done, but had my starter rewound when it began to fail. i'd start w/a good electrical shop/mechanic before you drop on another starter, good luck

good point, i come to nearly full stop & rpm's low when using shuttle.

all the more reason to go w/hyd shuttle upgrade over conventional single dry plate clutch. big advantage...from what i understand, the design has been around a long time. don't care to split a tractor, never will thankfully, shifting standard is easy for me, so it's the best of 2 worlds w/o the...

i try to come to full stop or close before engaging fw/rev shuttle control. btw my manual shuttle lever is adjustable in fw/rev as it is cable driven & in time can stretch slightly.

Danuser are you working with a partner or solo on that many holes? maybe explain application in more detail. Mine is bullet proof, but w/a 9" auger. Interested to hear of the tree planting, assuming pines?

i'm enjoying the retirement adventure as well. so will the Tundra be the only vehicle? my '92 Toyota 4x4 (earlier to Tundra or Tacoma) has 302k original. keep the adventure going, the 1st several yrs of my retirement were prob the most productive ever. enjoy

sounds like an adventure. maybe explain reason for the transition, & what your equip/ project ambitions are regards

have you explored just replacing the guard? must be aftermarket somewhere. btw had a TO 35 for 28 yrs, a warrior (once started :)) other than that. TSC would be my 1st start locally, good luck