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I've run my Harbor Freight Titanium MIG 170 on my Champion 4kw generator with flux core, with what you are running I would imagine you would be fine, I stalled the generator a few times before I found the right setting :)

Haven't added it up yet but: '00 explorer 225hp '98 Explorer 225hp '90 Ranger 220hp '97 Ranger 107hp '97 F350 225hp '03 Camry 170hp Kubota L260 26hp That's 1198hp with just the easy math 4 wheeled stuff... I dyno engines all the time, horsepower is kinda silly to me... personally I don't care...

There were different levels of engines, carbureted and fuel injected although for a new boat carbureted likely wasn't an option in 2012, I don't know what got what but the fuel injection of that time was pretty simple and robust

Do you like your apples red or green? Pretty much the same thing depending on the engine, for the most part they all start as GM bare engines and get the marinizing stuff added, most are about the same and use most of the same parts... Ford marine engines were popular through the mid '90's but...

There's all sorts of stuff around here, are you talking about pole barn style or full metal buildings? My shop was done by Parker Pole Buildings out of Hubbard Oregon, I bought it as a kit but they do have contractors that they work with that will assemble from what I heard. Depending on where...

I have both, and welcome comments :), I have a strong preference to DC with either 6011 or 7018 since I have a good supply of both, along with a couple wire feed welders but they all have uses, thus why I bought another welder in the first place... I have a shop and a garage, both need a stick...

I was using 6011 that I've had for years, decent condition, instant strikes on my DC welder, I only have standard DC 7018 so didn't even try that on the AC welder, it was striking (no matter on what) like it was set at 20A not 110ish, hard to start but after 1/2" of travel on light wall metal...

I ended up with a pet grooming table with electric adjustment, it's like 20" by 40" or something and goes from like 15" on the low side to around 40" on the high side, it's pretty handy when I have it cleared off... Years ago we got a Gorilla cart with 13" tires, it's great for making small...

Oh, I know for sure DC is better, my Century AC/DC hasn't been off of DC in many years, but you see I got this welder at an online auction where the welder was in one lot and the leads were the next lot, I thought for sure no one else would notice but I think I have about $90 or $100 (was sure...

That is very interesting! I will have to give that a try since I'm just using 1/8" 6011 I'm just at around 100A. That would definitely be the easiest fix... I cheaped out on the ground clamp and just used the $7 offering from HFT, they work ok and have a strap going from side to side unlike...

I'll check on the length of the cables, don't think they're any longer than 15', will eventually check on the contacts on the other 3 ends of the cables (since I replaced the ground clamp... :)) That stupid little vise is handy, it's a cheap vise (basically free but was broken when I got it...

last year I picked up a Miller Thunderbolt stick welder: Once it's going it welds fine for an A/C welder, but striking an arc is an exercise in patience... (my other stick welder is a Montgomery Wards branded Century AC/DC unit, I'm not a novice) it was picked up on an online estate auction...

To be more relevant to the thread at hand... Here's my welder cart, it was a $50 auction find, couldn't beat it with a stick so I got it and will modify it to my needs... Obviously the welder is on the top shelf area, the bottom area will get filled in for consumable storage and hopefully I'll...

Vertical is pretty much just for acetylene I believe, since acetylene is dissolved in a substrate... argon and 75/25 are just mixed gasses...

Continuing with things, here's the progress through the rest of the month, got the rest of the sheeting done that I can as well as painted and put together and the new shelf up... won some stuff at a recent local online auction and now have gas tanks for the welder (both argon and 75/25) and...

Lumber prices are down some so I got some OSB to sheet the inside of the walls about a week ago, have two gaps done now, think I'll do 2 more gaps before I paint... lot of rearranging at this point but it'll pay off... I've been working on stuff, some of you have likely seen the thread on my MF...

What I just bought was 7/16, was just over half the price of 15/32" plywood (right around $20 a sheet) which I was going to buy but that's a steep premium just to sheet walls in a shop...

I remember hearing about OSB sheeting being like $65 not long ago, I just bought 36 sheets for $11.10 each, when I got a similar amount around 6 years ago I think it was $9 and change so not bad... need to bite the bullet and get materials to build the shop loft soon...

I'm pretty sure you've never dealt with Flickers or Sap Suckers invading your space on things you actually want to keep nice, and mice are vermin, they need to be controlled, they're looking for a place to call home and destroy for any human use. The mice in my property are not after food, there...

I just use some Dawn in mine, seems to work good enough and I don't feel bad about just dumping it every few uses...

I have a ~3k pound 9.5' camper I use with my '97 F350 crew cab long bed 4x4 diesel and tow my Ranger on a trailer around... I use a ~18" hitch extension with the frame mount hitch modified to be similar to a super hitch with two tubes and a forward support to take the side to side load of the...

Yes the rears are filled, don't remember how much but it's over half, need to keep on the lookout for new to me tires or a good deal on new... If I had a plow I'd plow first but I don't, I think my brother has a 2 bottom I could borrow... my septic drain field is out there so just discing a...

I did get it out of the shop today and tried it, it works but the ground is too wet, just made lines and not enough traction to get anywhere... gotta wait for the ground to get in better shape but it's usable! It'll be a lot nicer to have the 3 point disc instead of the pull type I had before...

Ok, here's the pictures from this weekend... first is one of the cleaner pair of bearing clamshells: Then one of a cleaned bearing on both sides: Then of the last pin I had to make, this one welded in place where they other just pinned in place... The lower spring clamp was the junky...

I forgot to spin the rear gangs before I moved to the front but will do that later... got the pin made for the one missing on the front and got all those bearings cleaned and greased, conveniently I had just enough 45* 1/8" pipe grease zerks since it had 4 straight ones and two of the ones I...

There seems to be a similar amount of play in all the bearings (in the 4 I've had off so far), I'm going to get the things together and try it out before I get too excited, I know I should be able to extend the life and accuracy of the bearings by taking each half to a belt sander (if I had a...

This has metal bearings, at some point I might look into replacement, we'll see what kinda shape the rest are in :)

For the most part using a DC welder (the welding current itself, not what the welder is plugged into) and having the welder ground as close to the weld as possible there is little chance of an issue, If using an AC welder doing similar should be fine but if the tractor engine has a computer it...

Tonight I straightened the adjuster levers so the spring linkages work like they should and cleaned out one more of the bearings, so 5 more bearings to clean and one pin to make... and I might be able to test it next weekend, last I heard was dry the next 10 days so might be about right...

Here's early on in straightening the one arm Here's after I got it as straight as I think it needs to be Here's the one piece I had to make, it was missing the angled piece of 3/8", I'll admit I was kinda winging it at first and the hole ended up needing to be right on the edge so I ground...

I got a cold this week which slowed me down... yesterday I took 30 minutes in the shop to untwist the twisted area on the one ball end, it's a 5/8" by 2.5" bar so wasn't going to do it cold, took the O/A torch and got it hot with the 36" pipe wrench on the link and 2" ratchet straps pulling both...

I see it is set on DC, leave it there, welds much better on pretty much anything unless you get fancy, 6011 and 7018 are my go to's, 1/8" rods at around 100-125A run pretty good, if you were just to have one rod get 6011, 7018 is nicer to run with prettier welds but you have to break the tip...

My little tractor doesn't have a remote or anything but has a couple thousand pounds of 3 point lift ability so 3 point is preferred, I had a drag type disc that was way too big for a while but once I got this I sold the drag disc to a guy that turned it into fountains... lol For good measure...

I got this thing for I think $200 or $250 around 4 years ago at auction but it needed some work, it was missing a couple pins and needed some tinkering, it sat for a while, then I moved it to the driveway hoping it would get me working on it if it was in my way, but nope... then just over a week...

Being fuel rich (as stated above it's sap soaked pine) it lights super easy and is kinda like a candle so it burns for a while with flames so it adds heat and flames to the kindling and firewood. Splitting it up to smaller pieces it lasts me forever, getting I think is a 40 pound box for around...

For light stuff the light duty tie downs at harbor freight are just fine, I think they call them 1/4" or something, they take two 5/16" bolts if I remember right, I put 6 on one of my trailers and they've worked well

When we get frisky we take dryer lint and push it in egg cartons then drip melted wax on the top then cut those up, works GREAT My go to is fat wood, buy it in huge quantity like HERE, they come in big pieces, take a hatchet and split them into pencil size pieces, take say 3 of those and light...

Yeah, some truck campers are just silly, they make some with 3 slide outs (mostly the ones with the door on the side like the one on that Dodge), they get dumb heavy and stupid expensive... my camper is around 2500lb dry I think, I like to stick to the 9' length range so towing works better...

Replacement parts for the Titanium could be an issue but the liner in the whip is "tweeco style" I believe and HFT carries them on the shelf so does every welding store... if it helps here's a link to the coupon. Doesn't look like it comes with any wire (must have been the Unlimited 200 I got...

I just got an email this morning that at Harbor Freight there's a coupon for the Titanium MIG 170 for $520, I have one and have tried to kill it unsuccessfully... I think I mentioned it before but it's 110/220 with included cord, comes with a spool of flux core and solid I believe as well as the...

I've had the harbor freight 1.5 ton folding hoist for like 20 years, it's still going strong, I think it was $125 way back then, not perfect and I don't think it leaks down much, it folds up pretty small, I've used it for all sorts of silly things over the years... In the shop I have an A...

For import stuff look into littlemachineshop.com they spec the best (above the Grizzly spec) for the same machine, most of the Seig lathes are made in the same place with a different color of paint... we have one of their 9x16? lathes at work, it's a pretty nice unit and at $1600 when we got it...

If you are mostly running 1/2" thin wall tubing then yeah, wire feed on 120V is perfectly fine, keep the stick for bigger stuff... if you are used to clean up on stick and don't mind a little bit of spatter then I wouldn't shy away from flux core either, it runs about like 6011, for long beads...

It is kinda handy... have taken a handful of stuff in for warranty, which reminds me, my brother handed me a messed up Leek I need to see if they'll do anything with... it works but has like 2 screws in it total with two different color scales, he put it together with parts from two knives... he...

I try to season what I have 1 to 2 years split and stacked in a shed, right now I have just over 3 cord of wood on hand split and stacked ready, started the season with just under 4 cord which is all I have room for currently, in the coming months I plan to add room for 2 more cord on the end of...

I work down the street from Kershaw, been going to their warehouse sale for like 25 years now so I have MANY Kershaw knives, have my favorites but have stuck to their Misdirect model for the last several years, lost my first one in October, replaced it locally then bought a couple spares at the...

all hooey, just like the Pintos blowing up... fuel tanks are in the rear of dang near everything and were before the pinto... sure shortcuts were made but if you do almost anything wrong enough something stupid will happen...

there are some great videos on youtube too to help you get the hang of welder settings (is it weld.com not sure but that guy has some good stuff), many of the newer welders have a chart on the wire spool door that is actually pretty close... I haven't put gas to my home wire welders just flux...

That's the kit I've used and referenced above, it works fine, has it's limits but is cheap... is set up for HDPE with the filler rod and such... $20 is cheaper than a new top for sure... If thick plastic I've gone as far as going backwards first to V out the crack first to make room and make...

That only works on ABS and PVC like plastics, HDPE is way different and NOTHING sticks to it, and nothing breaks it down, it's basically why they're cracking down on plastic grocery bags... I always test MEK (usually I keep a bottle of Plastruct around, expensive for the size but it's handy as...