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Maybe the filter seal is faulty and leaking enough air to prevent prime. :unsure: It doesnt take a lot to foil the suction side of the hydraulic system.

Yes the Physics is the same, and so in any formal analysis would cover all the variables of size and choice. The increased risk of a large system is essentially inherent in its size, construction, and purpose. Move a lot of water a long way fast in high modulus pipe. What would Physics say...

I would be better to address the quoted post rather than misrepresent it by fixation on a single word in it.

Use a pin punch and hammer to drive the fitting on the bad hose CCW. Make a divot on the hex, then one good hit with 2# hammer and punch will break it free to then turn easily.

"Traveling", and "dynamic", in the post you quoted is meant to indicate flowing as opposed to static. Friction increasing with distance, comes into play during flow.

I tape it OFF. But if you look at my post you quoted youll see that the cable leads to a protectively located and terminated plug. Still, yes, a determined, unauthorized, and foolish person could get shocked after complex behavior involving trespass, breaking and entering, some trial and error...

My house panel serving the house and farm outbuildings is "plugged in" permanently via a #6-3 cable running from a normally OFF 240V (emergency) breaker in the panel box. The cable is appropriate length, going outside and fitted with a male plug compatible with the generator. The plug resides...

Yes, some are easily confused. They are prone to take a real phenomenon, awesome in its effect in large scale systems where virtually every design and operation choice has been poor, and then sensationally apply such effect, full bore with negligent regard for operating nuances and convenient...

Im not sure what question remains unanswered in the posts. There was only a little grease - oil patina left coating the inside of the gearbox as in post 29.

Done that in my Subaru and got some road miles out of it. Ran fine. A little occasional pinging.

I coined the "connection". Remember Nerf Balls and bats? Soft foam. A hammer would thus be a contradiction in terms. "Hammer" connotes some range of severe impact. Below that range would be what? .. impulse? urge? bump?

Is your TYM rear wheel stance narrow in comparison to the width of the bushog? That accentuates l/r leans.

See post 24. Did you read the post you quoted?

You can start with the 1st 2 sentences. Absolutes. At what point does water nerf graduate to water hammer?

From sound only, I perceived less than optimum gearbox lubrication with #2 after prolonged smooth usage. Chop a few trees with it or hit a couple cinder blocks and its all better for awhile. The JD127 has no stump jumper so, driven by 45ptoHP, it really shakes when it hits substantial objects. I...

Yes. It was still residual oily/greasy but no reserve bulk. Maybe I added too much oil, but I tried to err on the low side. Maybe the grease thickener was incompatible with the gear oil. :unsure:

No, I put some gear oil into the RC gearbox that had #2 already in it and immediately ran the cutter in normal use. After an hour or so everything was gone. I have used only straight greases since w/no problem.

YEAH! These on full pressure might blow a filter apart.

I find that #2 is ok when the bushog is used in shock producing situations often. Too much smooth running is not optimum as the grease stays pushed away from gears and bearings. I like #1 or 0 which almost flows. TSC economy grease is ~ #1.5 -- its seems to work well. Convenient.

Experience with JD 127 Gyramor: #2 grease + gear oil leaked out; #1 or 0 grease stayed in. No problem for years of hard use adding an ounce or so each year.

Good info, but some significant wrong stuff mixed in. Needs better qualification of statements.

It happens when water moving rapidly in a pipe is stopped quickly and rebounds and oscillates to a stop. Speed, pipe rigidity, and length of the water column all enter in to influence the severity.

Water in the 600' line will reverse direction each time the pump turns off when the RV is using water. Some delivery effect will be noted at RV. Probably not too big an issue unless hammer develops with abrupt cutoffs in RV usage. A small surge tank at a convenient point that adds some...

I think water hammer may happen in abrupt valving situation at the aux valve, but that the problem is not probable in general. Should be able to totally defuse the chance with a very small surge tank/bottle at the Tee connection point.

Yes, both eyes. Good focus from about 18" out. Some bullseye effect with headlights at night but easy to deal with by not looking directly at the light.

No problem. Siphon the gasoline out and fill it up with diesel. Itll straighten right out. My wife did the same with our L2550 and went back to working it. It started knocking so she stopped quick. That was 1000+ hrs ago.

It will be fine. A cutoff valve in the Tee line is a good idea posed earlier. Im sure you will be entertained by the pause in the aux flow you will experience every time the pump turns off. ;)

Grade 2 will probably be a nuisance. Will shear more often and smear as it shears. This can gall the shear zone. Gr 5 is hard enough to shear cleanly. Gr 8 is often too hard and strong, risking damage to the shear zone and/or equipment.

[[ I pose using an electric blower inside to continuously backflush while tapping on the outside of the filter element. ]] Using a hair dryer from the inside first to thoroughly remove dampness immediately beforehand should make it easier to dislodge the dirt when you go to the blower and...

Washing a paper air filter - definitely not. Otherwise, the link is targeted to excessively sell air filters to people who they conveniently assume cannot focus on the variables and act in a manner benign to the function of the filter and its conditional safe renewal.

None. I dont play that game.

I know enough considering the bearing duty involved. Failure was from water entering the bearing due inadequate design protection in the equipment. I couldve gotten the generic Chinese bearings for $3 and they would have probably lasted as long. I wouldve paid JD $40 with barely a raised...

Uhh, well somebody is going to have to click on it to actually judge that it is spam. What about suspending the post immediately after the 1st spam report until an administrator has assessed it? That way there are only 2 clicks. It strikes me that may be doable in the system. :unsure: DANGER...

Is the tractor new to you. Has it been sitting a long time. Is it cold where you are???

Strange. Ordinarily orings are the most forgiving of seals. As long as they will fit into the sealing area, touching both sides, and not so oversized as to be extruded in assembly. Then any pressure trying to leak just pushes the gland into better sealing contact. Could it be that you are...

That depends on where you are. I use plain water.

Gone and came back as patrick_g I guess. Lightning will it take off? Continuity lost in a site redesign maybe. :unsure:

And due to less deformation of the nailhead the smooth blow is more intense.

Yeah, Im puzzled. Among others there was an epic thread "Will it take off" That both PatrickG and I participated in. I cant find it. ?????????

This is a very old thread that didnt really come to a correct resolution. A fun read I just found due your post. - - PatrickG had a real good insight about the change in drive diameters fouling the system, but did not develop the fact that tracks are doing the driving not wheels. The outer...

Piece of perforated stall mat should do it. Or maybe baseball catcher togs would be less pia.

Nice! -- Pulling wire with a tractor is pretty scary though. We use Mighty Mouse in high range to limit the risk of overdoing it. A good smooth HST mini is pretty friendly.

What wood? Oak or rock maple timbers? How used? Big washers or spreader plates? etc.

Brotek has them for the L2250. Should be identical. They would know. Bro-Tek

Check and see if the pump is running overly frequently even at the lower pressure. It may be that you have a split in the, probably poly plastic, well pipe. These sometimes develop over time immediately above the pump and would explain excess running and limited pressure.

The drilled hole was a good idea. Came up short due the sticky fluid. To realize the advantage it would have probably just taken a metered air jet downward at the hole. Not too hard to set up next time with a regulator and blo gun.

Lots of chances for human error in sealing and orienting.

DeJoy is a verb.

Sure. UM-mm. Near everything where carriage bolts are called for now. The cost/benefit of the better metal is superior when you can find a source like KR and keep a multi type and size bolt selection on hand for insurance/convenience . Its easy to justify spending $65 at reasonable piece prices...

It would be nice to have some of those/Grade8 equivalent. Gr5 though is much less expensive on KR and is amply strong for most of my applications. And ~ often in a pinch a Gr8 Hex head could be adapted.