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Curious about this stuff. Always looking for a better way. I've been using Dawn spray on degreaser and it works ok but not as good as carb cleaner. I'm running low on the last 5gln can of the banned Trichloroethylene. TCE. It's non flammable.

I love my 18v 1/2" Milwaukee. I'm not tasked with anything over 1.25" and hopefully don't bust anything off. It is awesome for travel for trailer tires and average Joe stuff. Way better than any Air Impacts I have or had over the years. But I can certainly appreciate the need for something more...

Older Hobarts were Troy Ohio. Miller hasn't made Mig machines in the states for over 15 years. Some of the Dynasty board configuration is USA but most everything else including Bobcats are only assembled here. No-one is make a Mig machine in the USA anymore. Sad state of affairs I know.

Couple things here, Harris is owned by Lincoln not ITW/Miller and Until recently ESAB didn't even own themselves so they don't really own anything. ESAB sure was happy that Colfax put Victor in with the ESAB umbrella. Kept them from hemorrhaging $50 million for a 3rd year in a row.

Lots of variables to this question. Depends some on if you want to run the welder at 1/2 or full capacity. I do a reasonable amount of 14ga tubing out in the woods at 16-18v on the welder running off a 6K watt inverter generator. If you want to weld 3/8 you will need 8-10K watts. Big difference...

I started out building tree stands because I couldn't buy what I wanted. Then a small utility trailer then small implements and repairs. It all happens fairly quickly so you will indeed be a good welder in not too much time.

I built a lean-to type of greenhouse off of a shed. I used reclaimed patio slider thermal pane door panels. They were free and will hold a snow load in the winter.

I worked that show several years with a welding supply distributor. Being from the mid-north of the USA I was very surprised at the implements they show there. I had no idea what any of them were. Multi blade tree saws? Tree shakers? wow..

I use a choker cable as well. That tree isn't really that big so rip it out of there with truck or tractor.

I can't even imagine running an 090. My big saw is a meek muff modded 044. It's beastly. 090 would be a hand full. Bet it sounds awesome.

I'm nearly done with my last year of wood cutting. I burned 10-15 cord per year (20 years) to smoke up the area with my outdoor stove. If I was a little younger with a few years left. I'd buy one. Plenty of mixed reviews on here for that saw.

You could give it a wipe with some of that shotgun bluing repair liquid. It will stain it a little and not totally prevent rust but it works pretty good.

It is stated by most manufacturers that UV and IR rays are blocked to the equivalent of shade 16 even if the lens is in the light state. That doesn't mean you won't get major eye fatigue from using too light of shade. As stated above. You only get one set of peepers so choose wisely.

Back pressure or no back pressure. I did muff mods on 3 saws. 026 pro, MS361 and an 044 mag. After the mods each of the saws were tuned and were a bit louder but each performed like the next larger saw than what they were. No regrets.

How about any of the suggested saws used in great condition? Half of the saws out there get pretty light use. I bought an MS361 for $175 opened up the muff and she is a screamer..

Man, 13 pages of novice advice. Ooofdahh. I bet it will hit 20.

I carry the re-purposed pointy tipped Slime bottle. Works very well and no oil messes. Everything gets blown out and fueled up for the next use so it's ready at any time.

You can always go to your local welding supply store and tell them you are interested in buying a MIG welder but would like to run one and see if it's right for you. Most LWS stores have a lab or demo room and they " should " be glad to let you mess around in there for a while. They can offer...

Nice repair. You can use SIB with gas too but Tig will be slightly stronger @50K. LFB brazed has a higher tensile @65K. Both are great ways to fix this but if you plan to use oxy-fuel I like the Nickel Silver rods. 95K tensile and is all position. It's all good actually. I enjoy messing with...

Same here. Barbed wire, nails, tree steps etc. embedded in the trunks. And then there's the rocks and dirt. Some of the chains take a terrible beating out there so often I found it a major effort to file out the damage. That's where the bench top grinder shines for me.

Never mastered the manual file or the time it took to file sharpen a 20" chain or the whole dremel stone or diamond deal.. They were time consuming and did a poor job while wearing out in no time flat and I tried them all.. I enjoy an electric bench top that sharpens quick and easy and none of...

Gotta love the log splitter instructions. Place log on splitter and pull lever. Awesome.

Often times there is a USA cross over tractor from Massey or AGCO and others. Mine is almost identical to a Massey 1240. Good luck !

I had a slight leak on my TA 247 and Lucas Hub Oil fixed that. Bought a relatively inexpensive loader for Koyker in South Dakota. Not sure they are still around though.

For larger than 12" trees you are in at least 60cc territory. You will be surprised what size tree you can work up with a 60cc even with a 20" bar. I see nice used 036 pro's and 361's for $3-400.

Needle and seat could have stuck in the reg too. Once you get going try to open the 02 valve slowly as to not blast the internals with 2000# of instant pressure.

I have a 4 way slip over that actually does as intended but I use an outdoor wood boiler for heat and have no need for the tiny pieces I get with the 4 way.

I have to go with the 80% suggestion as well. Not only do you lose traction but with minimal tread left the tires are easier to damage. Stone drilling, road hazards like screws, nails and wire. Tires are crazy expensive these days but winter is coming in the north and I got new rubber going on...

Another thing to consider with the inverter stick units is that if it's not designed to run 6010-6011 it simply won't do it.

Most inverter stick welders worth their salt will have hot start and arc force adjustment. If a guy can't stick weld with those features I'd suggest Mig.

Sounds like they got it tuned in pretty good. I thought it would be a little more wild but very cool just the same.

Weak Spark or Plug? I had a saw that had poor spark transfer in the rubber spark plug cap. Took forever to figure it out.

I did a muff mod on my 026 pro, 034 super, 036 pro, 361 and 044mag. Each is a bit louder but all perform like the next larger sized saw. Simple re-tune which was not much more that opening the H 1/8 turn or so.. After looking at the modded muffs on E-bay, I did my own and slightly angled the...

Not sure how well it will work but there are Nickel Silver oxy-fuel rods "designed to extend hammer drill bits". Alignment would likely be critical. I've sold them in the past but never put them to the test for that purpose. Harris 14 and Weldcote Nickel Silver. Eutectic has one as well. Cool...

Just ran across a large nest 2 days ago. Seems at least twice a year I have to battle the ornery little sob's. We have a ton of wasp nests everywhere and many bald faced hornet paper nests hanging from the trees but they will cut you some slack. The little ground hornets simply look for any...

As stated above. I just prop the bar tip up on a piece of 2x2, Adjust chain and tighten. Never have a prob.

Probably as good as you can get until you eventually build new.

Back then I bought a 1989 SP-200 very similar. These were the smoothest transformer machines I have ever ran. Including dozens of other brands from the era and up to now.

Oddly, My TA247 uses mostly Massey 1240 parts. That's the manual that was suggested to me and so far anything I have needed fit correctly. AGCO has a nice list of Iseki built models and manuals too. I just don't have the info in front of me.

Who builds welding equipment in the USA?

Yeah they probably make or assemble some engine drives there. It would be encouraging if they do . I've been there a few times too. They were always making or assembling something. The only real way to know is to go to a LWS and look at the shipping boxes all the stuff comes in. It has country...

No-one... Makes welding equipment in the USA. Lincoln dose a little in Mexico and ESAB buys Orphans from the Swiss and China. We all know how that is gong. Everyone else imports from China (with some degree of success or failure.) Sometimes partially with other components coming from all over...

Plasma shines in a bunch of ways but priceless cutting rebar, Tposts, bed frames and cutting edges. My band saw and cold saw don't like that stuff. Gouging and beveling are great as well. Free hand notching and saddles work well with practice and practice is key to all of it.

Simply buy the most powerful welder in your budget that will run FC and Gas. If FC is where you will start I suggest 71T-11 as opposed to the TGS crap. Good luck learning..

Top Notch !!!!

I had similar situation and made similar repairs and upgrades. What I enjoyed the most was installing the slim LED lights. I did mine vertical and they are only 1" wide and 10" tall. Very bright and easy to protect if mounted on the angle iron.

We played with one of these like 5 years ago at Fab-Tech. Fronius was right across from us. If I remember correctly the poor new kid working for them ran close to 5# of 3/32 7014 on a charge. Poor kid had to weld non stop for 3 days. I think he quit after that. Fronius also sold a few of these...

Might want to learn on something around 1/8" thick. You'll learn a lot about too much or too little voltage much sooner.. The thicker stuff can come later as you learn to identify a great weld from pigeon poop. Good luck !

I'd vote for Sam. He blessed me with a couple of his Snake named masterpieces.

Most of the Hypertherm machines going forward will come with an encapsulated 1 piece front end consumable. No more stack of parts to keep track of. Interesting idea that includes a chip to track wear and cuts. I've looked at these new parts but have no idea how it impacts the cost to use...