Search results

BAD IDEA.

Your theory of increased friction in a degrading line makes perfect sense to me. If the lift pump produces a constant suction at the intake and pressure on the output side, then that friction in the main line would create resistance and the pump would seek a source of fluid or air to...

What you say makes complete sense. In my case, however, air was definitely ENTERING, rather than leaving, the filter bowl assembly. The check valve solved that direction of flow, while still permitting either air or fuel to leave it. What makes this so weird is that the original arrangement...

I purchased a 2019 f150 regular cab/8ft bed new but I had to “put the word out” via the area dealers. Love it. It’s the style of pick up for true farm work. Plan to take excellent care of it so it lasts. 10spd automatic with the 5 liter gas engine.

I get the frustration with the newer gas cans. Pain in the arse. But the comparison with Fentanyl is illogical. Gas cans are a manufactured product, and like all products in the US, are subject to safety review. The fentanyl crossing the border is not a product subject to US laws. And...

I had sprayed the joints with penetrating oil this morning. 4 hours later heated the two arms up JUST SLIGHTLY and then hit them a few times with a 16 oz ball peen hammer. The joints freed right up and have now installed the new tie rod assembly and toed in the alignment. All set! Thanks for...

what should I heat? The tie rod bolt or the end of the arm?

Hi all, I have a 2004 New Holland TC35. Many years ago I bent the tie rod out in the woods. Recently, the tie rod separated from the tie rod end, the likely result of the threads eventually stripping from uneven pressure on the assembly. Bought a new assembly (the rod itself along with the...

This is just an update on the solution above. It has now been over three months and a couple hundred hours of tractor use. I've had no further problems with the fuel lines and filter bowl assembly since installing those two small check valves. While I still cannot say definitively WHY the...

Have now used the tractor for high throttle work for more than 15 hours with no loss of fuel height in the filter bowl and no compromise to the workings of the tractor. I think I can now recommend that anyone out there with this same problem could use my fix; namely, two low pressure check...

I got these check valves from Amazon. Here is the link to the correct product. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087PFHNTZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details There are metal valves that would probably be more durable, but I went with these for two reasons: 1) It was an experiment that I didn't...

So I believe I have solved this ongoing problem to my satisfaction. After checking to ensure that the return line from the injectors was not loose (and therefore not a source of air), I did a bit more research on diesel fuel injections systems. It seems that well over half of the available...

Here is an update that will have you all scratching your heads.... Please examine the attached photo as you read this post. So, I ran the tractor for a few days leaving the hemostat crimping the return line section that connects to the filter bowl. The tractor ran perfectly, with no symptoms...

0.5 kpa or 0.0725 psi

the check valve has an opening pressure of 0.5 kPa or 0.0725 psi

Opening pressure for the 1/4" inline check valve is 0.5 Kpa or 0.0725 psi.

I just looked it up on this small valve. Opening pressure is 0.5 Kilopascal or 0.0725 psi

That's the thing that drives me a bit crazy about this. The tank vents perfectly, so it's not a vacuum build up in the tank itself. It's not a blockage in the tank or near the tank exit, as I completely drained the tank, rinsed it out with diesel and diesel conditioner, and did not get even a...

So crimping the return line where it enters the top of the filter bowl fixed it, at least for a solid hour of running the tractor at high throttle and mowing a sense field. The air is DEFINITELY coming in from that location. And the only logical place to access that air has to be from the...

So I got a three pack of these 3/16" check valves. They were only $7.99 for the three of them. Rated for fuel oil (including diesel). If my little experiment with crimping the return line to the filter assembly works, I will likely install one of these valves on the section of the return line...

Going back to theory that air could be entering the filter bowl through the fuel return line (via the tank), here is a diagram I found online from a site that sells fuel line check valves. While the arrangement on this diagram is different from my TC 35 (especially with the lift pump being...

I would occasionally lose power, but not consistently. What would happen is that, if I didn't pay attention to the height of the fuel in the filter bowl, I could drain the bowl completely and the tractor would then stall out. I would then need to reprime the injectors (always a pain in arse)...

If replacing the damage lift pump doesn't fix my problem (and I am now expecting that it will not), what I try next is simply temporarily crimping that return line to connects to the top of the filter assembly with a hemostat. If the air is entering the filter assembly from there, then it...

If the air is coming from the fuel return line (being pulled from air in the tank), would I be correct in assuming that I could fix that problem by installing a check valve on that return line? So that only excess fuel could move one way back to the tank, but not permit air to travel from the...

Okay, so I had a bit of time this afternoon and thought I would go ahead with installing the new lift pump. Attached are three photos. The first is the top of the old lift pump after removal. Upon removing the cover, I inspected the inside of the pump. Looking carefully (and not really...

I removed the fuel and return lines, checked them for deterioration on restrictions, blew them out thoroughly, etc. I then completely drained the tank, using a white cloth in a fuel funnel to look for any material that came out with the fuel. I then flushed the tank with clean fuel and even...

Haha! Great minds do think alike....they also persist! And to persist one needs pizza...

You are right, it was the very same problem. And, interestingly, it was repeating the "fix" (as dlctcg did) that resulted in what appears to be the solution. Now time will tell. I'd still be interested in any compelling theory that explains how a partial blockage in the return line could...

Ok, so yesterday I had removed the entire filter bowl assembly and cleaned everything thoroughly. There was absolutely nothing obstructing or limiting any one of the three orifices. I did not think to check whether that return orifice was before or after the filter. I believe it was AFTER the...

Okay, so I followed Harry in KY's suggestion and focussed upon the section of the fuel return line that runs from the top of the filter assembly to the "T connector" that joins the hose that runs from the back of the injectors to the main return back to the tank. I crimped that short line...

That makes sense to me. It seems that the only place for air to enter the bowl would be from that opening. It doesn't make sense to me either. I see the value of having a place for excess fluid/vapors/even air to go after visiting the injectors. It keeps everything moving in a loop from the...

Thanks to you all, this has been a productive thread. But I am still struggling with understanding why the bowl slowly fills with air (and not fuel). Where is the air coming from? Why, when I crack the seal on the filter bowl, does the bowl immediately refill? To try to better understand...

My logic fails me as well. It doesn't make sense unless you consider that if the pump is not keeping up with the demand at the injection pump (as might be the case if I was running at a high throttle), a vacuum could be created between the lift pump and the injection pump. Then an air leak...

Hi All, PLEASE GO TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS THREAD if you are looking for a SOLUTION to fuel levels dropping inside the fuel filter assembly during tractor use. You are, of course, welcome to read the entire thread. I have been having a persistent problem on my 2004 TC35. When I run the tractor...

I would say that as long as the bucket isn't constantly catching on something immovable (like a large rock), backgrading at up to even 30 degrees from horizontal would be okay. I've done that with my tractor MANY TIMES over the past 18 years and never had any damage to the cylinders. At worst...

Problem solved. I took the whole fuel return line assembly apart and found a blockage in the "T" connector. While I was at it, I replaced the two shorter sections of that return line (the long one that heads back to the tank looked fine). I do have a venting cap and did check that the vent...

Hi all, So, here's the problem. When I'm operating my tractor, the diesel is the fuel filter bowl slowly drops. If I don't pay attention, it can get low enough to eventually cause the tractor to stall. The only way to refill the bowl is to loosen the threaded ring that secures the bowl to...

I would buy, rent or borrow a drag harrow. Very handy device, and easily resold if you have to buy it and don't have a future use for it. Get a nice heavy one and the three point steel frame that allows you to lift when necessary. These harrows have three different levels of aggression...

I suspect that there may be such a rule depending upon the state and the nature of the road. Where we live is quite rural, and the shoulders are relatively wide. I've been passed by a few state troopers in the past, and they've never stop me or even said anything. So I'm guessing it's fine.

I use the brand where the dominant scent is cedar, so yes I can smell it, but it's not bad at all!

I had the dreaded starting problem with my TC35A. Thanks to dlctg's posting above, it (once gain) turned out (at least in part) to be an internally corroded positive battery cable. There also turned out to be a second problem, which was a shorting hot wire running from the maxi-fuse...

found the short! See the solution just posted

agreed!

Problem solved! As it turned out, i had a friction wear spot on the insulation of the hot wire that feeds the Fuse #6 circuit. It was on the BACK side of the wire bundle visible in the attached pic. When the tractor would go over uneven terrain, the bundle would jar against that horizontal...

My OCD drove a similar feeling, but I lack the electrical expertise to really figure out the nature of the short on that circuit. I have another post on the short in the Hazard circuit, and have yet to figure out a solution. Free time is also a limiting factor. My dealer does have field...

Wow! Those are noticeable! Did you weld that support onto the ROPS?

The neat thing about these beacons is that they have three illumination options; Flash, Double Flash, and Rotation!

I considered a higher mounting. I had a magnetic beacon that I used to put on the top of my ROPS, but it always got knocked off by low branches (when I did woods work). Ended up attaching it upside down under the top part of the ROPS. When mounting these beacons, I noticed that the refraction...

I like the LED light bars. Are the outside edges spots and the inside area floods?

I occasionally have to take my tractor onto the road to get from one property to another. Partly because of a chronic problem with my OEM flashers (they keep shorting out), I decided to add a separately circuited set of flashing beacons onto the light bar I built for my tractor. I just...