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Any luck finding the part? I usually try Wengers out of Meyerstown, PA, or MacFaddens in NY. You can also give Cook Tractor in IL a shot, they have a lot of used parts and might be able to help you find one.

Yep, its the MF32 loader. Has worked pretty well, but had some pump whine earlier this year. Decided to change the filter and either someone sucked up a rag, or there was something growing in the oil. Since the new filter, seems to be much happier. Probably need to drain and fill the whole...

I tried to scan the relevant pages from my manual, but had to use my chromebook camera. Sorry the quality isnt great, but working on getting out the door for the holiday so had to do it on the quick without getting good lighting setup or anything. Take a look, and if you need any better...

So you do have to remove that pulley to get the timing cover off. There should be a big honkin' nut in the middle of it, and having an impact to bump it off is pretty helpful. Once the nut is out, you should be able to persuade that pulley to come off. The cover is alloy I believe, so you...

Thanks very much for the reply. Ill pull the plug and will see what I can do. There is a hydraulic shop that I can get to, but its a bit of a ride for me. I wanted to check out my loader also, so will try to get a gauge and some fittings that would work to test that out. I checked my shop...

Any tips on a good spot to find a hydraulic pressure gauge? I don't have one and just want to start looking in the right spot. My garage doesn't have the head height for me to prop the loader, and my barn doesn't have a concrete floor. Looking to maybe score a floor jack and a cherry picker...

Nice Haul! Obvious things are to check for oil in the engines and transmission, see if there are any animal nests in the engine or air cleaner, and then check for fuel flow. Are they gas or diesel? If gas, maybe remove the plugs and put a little oil in the cylinders before you crank for the...

Thanks for the input! I just cannot find anything written up anywhere about the shuttle transmission, so not sure how different it is from the normal six speed. I need to try and pull the side covers on the rear end anyway to see what filter I have on the pump, and was thinking I would try to...

Ill try to find time to get a scan of my MF manual. In the meantime, here is a link to the IT manual. https://archive.org/details/tractors-mf135_mf150_mf165_shop_service Page 27 starts with the timing cover and there is info on the governor and distributor drive on the following pages.

To pull that timing cover, you will need to pull the fan, water pump and crank pulley off, as well as disconnect the throttle linkage from the governor arm. You will probably want to pick up a front crank seal for when you reinstall the timing cover in the future. The book for my MF20 has a...

I dont know if its a huge problem, but from my digging around due to my own machine, the Perkins Gas wasnt super common. The Diesel is known pretty well, but seems like a lot more of the gassers had the Continental 4 cylinder. So maybe its just a smaller sample of them out there? Might be...

I think this is the one you need. https://www.agcopubs.com/default.aspx?partNumber=1448813M1&searchForm=2 I suggest the "standard" one, it will come as a bunch of loose pages you can put in your own binder. Or you can look at this listing on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/392001400487...

You are very welcome. I checked my shop manual, and it looks like you will have to pull the timing cover off the front of the engine to replace that shaft. I think it would be a really good idea for you to get a shop manual for your tractor if you go down the path of wanting to fix this...

If you check back out on the acgo parts webpage, I think you want to look at section 34, listed "governor". The part number for that shaft is 737055M1. I attached the page and parts to try and help. I am not sure if you can replace it from what you have now, or if you will have to pull the...

Sorry, I should have been more clear. Blue Streak is a brand of ignition products that you can get or cross reference at a local auto parts store. DR-314 is the Rotor DR-90 is the condenser DR-2240 is a set of points Note that you might want to keep your old condenser if it was working, new...

Glad you found one at a discount! You might want to make sure you have good points and a good condenser in it before you install it. I have the Blue Streak part numbers if you want them, since I have the Perkins Gas in my MF20. (I know your pain on finding info, this is not a super common...

Well, I was going to respond to your first post that the backfiring probably had a little something to do with the timing, and looks like your further troubleshooting has confirmed it. From your last video, it looks like there is some damage to the drive gear (the one in the engine). Is that...

You can also give Hoye's Tractor a shot if you are looking for parts. They support a lot of the Yanmar models, so have some of the parts that will cross to your JD.

Which cylinder is leaking? If you check out the JD site, they will have a parts listing for your tractor. That should give you an exploded view of the cylinder, and will help you determine what parts you may need, and how they all go together. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/ If its...

Well, sometimes the ones that show you don't have much choice. My property is flat and 4WD would be nice but isn't a necessity. I'm more worried about the steering box or the front end since it seems parts are getting expensive for the 50 series. Makes.my Massey parts look like a bargain!

Good Morning everyone. Dont usually post here in the "Green" section, so wanted to try and ask some questions for folks that know these machines better. I currently have a MF 20 that is going to need a split and some love to fix a PTO clutch, and Im not sure if I will be able to tackle it...

Thank you for the tips! I haven't looked into what it takes for the disc, but might as well get to it if things are all pulled apart.....

I think that my PTO is slipping due to an oil soaked clutch disc, based on how grimy it looks inside the housing when I took off the inspection plate. Havent ever done anything that involves the thrust washers, so will be a new one on me. I am going to start making a list of the various...

Thank you so much for the detailed posting and part numbers. This is really helpful stuff for me to dig into. Here comes my confusion. I have the service manual for the 20, and these are the instructions I'm looking at that made me think I had to do a double split... Sorry they break across...

Mine is the six speed shuttle. Three speeds, manual lever for forward and reverse up high on the dash. I have checked out the parts manual, and am going to buy a hard copy from Agco to make it easier to see the diagrams away from my computer. Plus it's easier to see the notes and serial...

I don't have overhead space in my garage for me to be able to lift the loader arms like that. So I'll have to keep the engine in place and roll the back end. Or I can try this in my barn where I have the head height, but no power and a crusher run floor....

Any tips on surfacing at home? Can I just hit it with an angle grinder or palm sander? Or will that depend on the condition when I open it up? My machine seems to be set up the same as the 8 speed, but with no reverse in the H pattern. So it's still all gears, and I should be able to use...

Thanks for the quick response! I was planning on a full clutch kit at this point, so both discs, TO bearing and Pilot, not sure about pressure plate yet. I think someone has replaced the clutch once before, so it may not be too bad off, will need to see. I had thought about the rear main, and...

Not sure if anyone saw my other post in the Parts/Repairs section, but its looking like I need to split my MF 20 Industrial. I have never split this tractor before, and its sure gonna be a real peach trying to do it with the loader on there still. Anyway, my machine has the 3 cylinder...

Also, welcome to the forum! I would strongly suggest you pick up some manuals for your new tractor, they will help answer a lot of the questions you will find you have as you start using it. You can probably find most of them at www.acgopubs.com . (Or other various internet searches...(

Sounds like you have a 135 Orchard Model. I think those had separate planetary gear sets on the rear hubs and used disc brakes. But I think they were dry disc and not wet... Maybe this thread will help you confirm if this is what you have...

When you say wont slide, do you mean the PTO shaft itself will not telescope in and out? Or that the slip clutch isn't slipping?

Brakes arent necessarily so bad if you are just having to do a simple replacement. But if your tires are loaded, BE CAREFUL! They can flip over on you surprisingly easily! Bigger thing will be if your brakes dont work because they are oil soaked, that turns into a bit more of a project...

You can also try Macfadden and Sons. They have a lot of salvage, might know about the casting numbers that would work for you.

See if this post (and the ones it links to) might help you out. https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1505927

Found this on the Wengers site. https://www.wengers.com/lift-cover-184384m2.html It lists a serial number break, but not sure which one is the thicker vs thinner cover.

Figured I would post an update. Adjusted the clutch through the inspection cover down to around .060. I like the action much better, but it didnt matter as far as the use of the PTO was concerned. Sprayed some brake cleaner around in there to try and clean things up, including blocking the...

I would guess its not supposed to need any sealant, but when things get stripped, plans change... Maybe you could use Permatex aviation sealant? Or even just pipe dope that is rated for fuel oil? (sparingly! Dont want to get that stuff in your injection pump(

Have you adjusted your clutch pedal? There should be a procedure in your owners manual if you have one. But there should be a bit of free play (3/4"?) when you push the pedal down. Thats the travel before your throwout bearing hits the fingers. I would see if you have the right adjustment...

Here is what Jerry had in mind for you I think. http://fergusontractors.org/nfs/wp-content/uploads/electrical/TE-TEA-20-6V-12V.pdf (Hopefully it lets me post a direct link there, if not, I can get you a link that will direct you closer) Scotty has a good approach going for you if you just...

Minor update. So I checked my service manual. Looks like to remove the input shaft, I have to pull the PTO shaft out the back of the transmission, AND remove the forward reverse shuttle fork. Makes trying to replace those input shaft seals even more fun than just a split for the clutch. Im...

Thanks for that image. And yes, it certainly seems that the PTO disc is slipping. But one question on this. It says to make the adjustment if there is an issue with "release". I'm guessing that means when you have your foot all the way down the PTO disc is still engaged enough it's hard to...

You are right about that. I guess I should say that it makes me feel better that I couldnt see anything wrong, other than oil, and you are helping confirm that. I did notice that the bolts at the end of the clutch fingers look as if they are not completely parallel to the throw out bearing...

Thanks Harry. I also thought it looked pretty oily in there, and after running the PTO for a few minutes there are some drips from the rear weep hole on the underside. So probably a leaky shaft seal... Appreciate knowing the plates and things seem to look as they should.

Hello all. I have a problem going on with my Massey Ferguson 20 Industrial with the 6 Speed shuttle transmission. It has a two stage clutch, no multi power or independent PTO. Tried using a bush hog the other week, and noticed the PTO was slowing down (mower noise changed pitch), but my...

Could it be that your pump is driven when the PTO is engaged? So if the lever is pushed down, it's only pumping when the tractor is in motion. If you pull the lever back, that would enable the PTO when you are stationary. But in any event, the lift arms will not work if you have your clutch...

What physical shape is it? Round? Square? You could put some water or junky fuel in there along with some random nuts and bolts and rock it around or drive with it for a while. Then you can drain the scale and use a magnet to get the stuff back out ....

I hope to someday have maybe a tenth of this much skill and ability.... Fantastic work.

Ok, so you are set up for success which is good! You can still use some stands and rails to help with the split, but a good rolling jack and some cribbing will work too. #1 thing to do is cut some wedges from wood and hammer them on either side of your front axle so the engine cannot tip...

When I put in your part number without the dashes it pops up at Wengers.... https://www.wengers.com/clutch-fork-181459m1.html Might be your best bet!