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Age tends to bring wisdom. Sometimes it's from surviving our own mistakes, sometimes from seeing the mistakes of others. One thing I've learned is to always have someone knowing where I am. Cell phones generally make that possible--though in the mountains, maybe not. One of my friends, who...

I have to totally agree. The "pig in a poke" aspect of used tractors, especially when they seem like seem like really good deals makes it doubly important for the buyer to beware. I hope that neither of these options are from the dealers that sold you the last couple bargains!

A paraphrase from a nearby auctioneer: don't expect a $4500 compact tractor to perform like a $10,000 compact tractor! There are deals to be had, certainly, but LET THE BUYER BEWARE!

One caution no one else made: Never, NEVER rig up anything to pull from the the three point hitch. That gives a high hook point and can quickly flip your machine over backwards.

You really have to decide how often you're going to use those big pieces. Particularly the backhoe...and how effective it would be if mounted on a tractor. I'm a fan of stacking up a pile of work and then renting a tracked excavator. Chances are that for a grand you'd accomplish a LOT of...

Tossing in the same comment I make so often: shop the dealer. A shop that will keep you running without breaking the bank is is worth a bit more on the purchase price.

I have to agree with the radiator shop method. I guess the problem would be finding such a craftsman who is reliable. Good luck on that.

I put Stabil in my fuel cans when I buy the fuel. I add a bit of Star Tron about ever-other time I fill the tanks on all my small gas implements. That generally prevents any problems. I do tend to run the smaller implements dry before I put them away for the season.

Before I put some sub-surface drainage in, I had to have my wife drag me and my B-2301 out of a spot we used to call the "rice paddy." Embarassing, but no damage done.

:cool: :cool: :):oops:;)

My dealer suggested 20-30 minutes. I've only needed to use it a couple times and the Kubota B 2301 starts right off.

I'm small potatoes, just one diesel, but treat cut the winter fuel with about 1/3 kerosene AND add a conditioner. I only use about 10 gallons in a bad winter, in the summer, about 10 gallons every two weeks, so I keep it pretty fresh except in the winter

For what it's worth, I grew up in my dad's farm equipment shop and saw a LOT of the old Oliver and Farmall tractors, as well as a few Ford, Fergusson, and even a few JDs. I recall not ONE incident of a stuck clutch. All this in a day that most machines were kept outside. Wonder why it's an issue...

A friend had a little 110 volt flux-core mig machine that would produce nice looking welds, but had virutally no penetration. That would be my guess on that weld.

Sounds like you're looking for an excuse to build something :cool: , so maybe fabricate a shield to fit the drawbar. That should ensure no log would get away and try to push you.

In the final analysis, this is likely the best advicie. There will be no proving that it wasn't working if when the dealer took it in; certainly no proving that he tampered with it. Run your tractor and maintain it well. If this is something that is going to trouble you every time you get on the...

Though cable may be the right thing for some applications, I think a chain--or pair of chains as already suggested--is the better option.

I think that there have been some pretty clever solutions--I really like the "drill a hole" option.

I did a lot of work with an old 510 JD and found the shuttle, with a foot throttle a virtually unbeatable combination for steady loader work.

My brother burns used oil...doesn't care what kind it is--in his shop. It makes a good excuse for a ride to see him. I bring the oil, he makes the coffee. Good enough deal for me.

Towing my B-2301 I used one chain on the back, through a draw bar clevis. Two ratchet straps on the front, never had an issue.

I've been a Break-Free guy for years. Started using it on guns and it ended up on about everything else. I've also gone back to just an basic oil can for some applications. It's not as active as the modern ones, but there's something satisfying about the old tunka-tunka-tunka, of putting a...

From the picture, I'd have to agree that this would be the best option. I would not trust the best weld on that crack. The entire piece has been stressed out of shape by that impact, most likely.

One more guy in the 70+ range chiming in: A cab doesn't suit my needs BUT, were in Florida, I think it would be a necessity, particularly at our tender age! What I ALWAYS tell people is shop the dealer, as much as the brand. Talk to people who own the different brands and patronize different...

I use a B/D battery powered hedge trimmer to prune Christmas trees. Each battery lasts me about 20 minutes. Two batteries and I'm done in anyway. I have yet to bite the bullet for an electric chainsaw. I've used a couple of DeWalts, and have been favorably impressed, but not enough to spend the...

Restoring old garden tractors is not an obsession, it's a disease, especially if you are brand-specific, e.g., JD, Cub Cadet....

"It's worth at least $1500! I bought it for $300.

Yeah...if those men in black suits come, don't look at the camera!

I think that anyone parting with the 2500 bucks for one would soone be wishing he spent the cash on something else. A used ATV would be more versatile and likely less money. However, soe people just NEED to have a tractor.

On an acre or so, I'd go for the tiller. You can do it two or three passes in a pretty short time. After tilling, some sort of final levelling has to be done. I like those heavy wire screen drags. They seem to do a pretty good job one small properties.

When I had turf tires on my last tractor, I had at least one front tire problem every year. Tubes solved it...mostly. The R4 tires on my Kubota stand up better to the abuse I give it working a small Christmas tree farm, even if they're a bit tougher on the lawn.

Great grab! Free metal of any kind is good. If you have the equipment, and have to have turns, either heat it with a torch and let it cool slowly, then bend it or, as already suggested, weld the corners. Either one should produce good results.

My rule of thumb with small diesels varies by season. Warm weather operation, shut it down if you'll be off for more than a couple minutes. Colder weather, only shut down if I'll be off for more than 5 minutes or so. I'm not painful about those times, just a general guideline.

Sounds like you could be in my area. We have a similar situation. What had been a family operation is now a mega-corp. Not a lot of personal service anymore from what I've been told (I use a different brand, so it's not an issue for me).

I now use a different product in my modern "stuff" but would buy another bottle of MMO if I have any older engines. My dad had a shop in which he repair farm equipment--and anything else that go dragged in--from the 1950s to his retirement in the 80s. Always a barrel of it open and one on hand...

I have a small machine/fabrication company not far from me. For my DYI projects, I can generally find what I need in their cut-off/left-over rack that they'll sell pretty reasonably. Maybe you can find a place like this. Good luck.

My first thought would be IF and only IF you can do so safely, burn the field off in sections, then disc it with a good heavy disc harrow. Other than that, you're in for a long and tough haul.

I may be last guy in the world to have jumped on the locking grease gun fitting. I suffered for a number of years having to put new jerk fittings on something every year or take pins out of fittings to get grease on them. Whattadifference!

Nobody has said it directly, though it's been alluded to: SHOP THE DEALER! The one you've been talking to will be a problem if the experience you have had so far is the norm. Buy from a place that will service what they sell...it won't be Lowe's or any other major retail chain.

...more land, bigger tractors, more implements...

My neighbor has a smaller and very old--tires worn to nothing, all decals weathered off--Kubota, that he keeps outside, mows his tree farm twice each year--maybe 20 hours each time. By his own admission, he abuses it and I suspect he nver changes the oil. It's still running.

I like the over-run clutch idea. I had a larger Cub Cadet with electronic PTO. Hated it. Though I could put it in neurtral for hooking up equipment, I popped a lot of shear bolts on the rotary cutter until I put a clutch on the shaft--either engaging or disengaging at too high an RPM. The belly...

My 2 cents worth, likely to add to your confusion: Since this is all your own property and you're not going to wreck anyone else's lawn with the R-1 tires, it's pretty much a matter of your own preference. I can symathize with the back getting beat up. Using a larger, heavier machine does help...

My dealer charged a nominal fee to load the rear tires--I think it was about $400. The salesman said he would not see a tractor with a loader unless it had loaded tires, a backhoe or a ballast box. It was the best of the options from my perspective.

YEAH>>> Looks great. Nice that you're including a play space for the grand kids.

As long as the customer understands and you're both content with the agreement, it's whatever works between you and him. I would charge a sufficient amont so that your time maintaining the machine is worked into to overall price of the machine time.

I'm in agreement that the distance is the biggest joy-killer of the package. Calculate the cost of a year's travel--others have already given a lot of the information--and put that into your backyard operation. Raised beds are becoming a more popular option here in upstate NY, so they may be...

Sounds like a good deal for the owner and a train wreck for the guy renting it.

Since you seem to know your soil pretty well, the trencher may work wonderfully. However, if you hit a big rock, you'll be wishing for the mini-ex.

If it's all saplings, you *could* just cut it all off with a good-sized rotary cutter, then start tilling...but that'll take many passes to get it really tilled up for crops. I'm in agreement with those who suggest a dozer with a root-rake. Do it, be done with it, sell the dozer and then start...