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Looking at that diagram... there are actually only 4 terminals going to the tractor. Two terminals are connected together (ACC and RUN) See the table to the left. So the NAPA switch would work if you use the ACC position on the NAPA switch for your glow plugs.

The recommended NAP replacement is KS6600, which I and others have used. Here is a link to a useful thread: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/for-those-with-starting-problem.88444/page-2 And a pic of mine installed:

Gotcha, and that makes sense after reading your other thread. So there are multiple ways you could go, it seems. I like my added button because, apparently like your stock system, you can run the plugs however long you think is needed before trying to start. With the timer, you get the factory...

I'm speaking from experience with my TC29DA. I think it's safe to assume the answers will apply for you. I know that other models operate like I'm about to describe. 1. Yes, the GP should energize for a certain amount of time when the key switch is turned to ON. My model is 10 seconds. I think...

I'll confirm that the instructions on my model, TC29DA, are also to read the stick without screwing in. My change instructions are to use hydraulic fluid.

I'm not sure if that 20 seconds is with the key in RUN or START, or both, but if you just turn to RUN and leave it, it should go for the 4-10 seconds then stop. Whenever the key is turned to START, the glow plugs will energize for however long the key is in that position.

There is no temperature measurement. The glow plugs run on a timer then go off after 4 - 10 seconds, depending on your tractor model. At that point, yes, the light goes out. If yours does not, that probably indicates that there is a bad ground in that circuit.

Update from my post last night: That voltage reading in the OFF position dropped more (it's a really slow drain) to about 4.2V. Battery voltage post-to-post was now 12.84V. My current thought is that your 0.5V drain is a red herring. With a good battery and good cables connected to starter and...

I completely understand this feeling... "I'm pretty sure I know the way it should be, but..." That's a good diagnostic mentality! I have a TC29DA and I tried to recreate your test. I keep the battery on a tender, but removed it first. After that, and throughout, the battery read 12.86V from...

If anyone finds this thread wondering about replacing the key switch, I followed the recommendation of another thread to use NAPA KS6600 and it seemed to be good quality. Happy with it so far!

When mine went over 600 hours about a year ago, I looked around these forums to see what folks were saying, and I basically got the message TractorTech shared. I personally decided that there was no urgency. Maybe some day I'll get interested and do the valves.

I believe that the timer/relay has one function: to energize the glow plugs. But it does this under two circumstances: (1) When the key is turned to the "run" position for a certain amount of time (about 5 - 10 seconds, depending on tractor model), and (2) whenever the key is turned to start...

Here is the portion of the wiring diagram for my TC29DA that covers the glow plug circuit and some pages from the service manual that contain the glow plugs, fuses, and relays. It's not the exact same tractor, but what you are looking at must be the same or really close: the glow plug circuit...

I have two Armstrong clicker type torque wrenches (different ranges) that I'm very happy with. Armstrong is very good quality without moving into the most expensive price range (but isn't cheap either). The only downside for me is that the scales are in in-lb (even the bigger one), so I do a lot...

13V seems pretty good, but I'd measure that when trying to start the tractor. Seeing what the battery can produce under load is helpful in this case. As was mentioned, battery cables on these tractors have given others problems. When I added my starter relay I also replaced the cable ends for...

Gotcha. I once tested my glow plugs because I thought they may be underperforming. If you pull them and test the resistance, they should each be about 1.2 ohms, I think... just going off memory. But you replace them, so at least new ones should be good. To check to see if they are getting...

Your hard starting could be related to one of a few other things that are "aging out" and the problem is cropping up in colder weather because starting is generally harder in the cold. The list includes battery cables, cable ends, ignition switch, starter itself, and the "starter relay...

Thanks for posting about the solution!

Good luck. The relay circuit helped several of us. Not a bad job, but tricky if you have a FEL stuck on.

You've checked the glow plugs fairly thoroughly, but I would still recommend checking the voltage at the glow plug buss bar when the timer light is on and while cranking. It should be about 10.5V in both cases. I'm not confident that the glow plugs are *guaranteed on* when the lamp is...

I believe you are misunderstanding your test (or I misunderstand what you are doing, haha). You are getting the results I expect. Your test demonstrates that you have 12V "available" to the system, just like if you touched your test light to the + and - terminals of a completely disconnected...

We are the original owners of my wife's car, a Toyota, and 10,000 is the recommended change interval. I have changed the oil myself with a quality synthetic of the recommended grade every 10,000 miles. The car is now at 173,000 miles. Never an issue, runs great. If I can remember, perhaps I...

This stuff has worked very well for me...

Wow, some of you have some crazy stories! Mine is more funny than scary. There was a ground nest we knew about in our lawn by the chicken coup. They weren't yellow jackets, but some kind of aggressive bee. Never saw a lot at a time, 1 or 2 usually. One day I was hand mowing there and got...

It's in the link I posted above.

I had to replace my glow plug timer last fall and, in my case, a similar (much cheaper) P/N that supposedly cross-referenced did not perform properly. I tried to go with that at first, but ended up buying the expensive dealer part and that worked out. That's just my experience. I described...

The attachment on my Woods finish mower is like this, and I understand... it doesn't work like you might naturally think.

That bolt is not threaded into anything that I see because the nut is removed. If it spins freely, which it seems is true, it would slide right out if it weren't for the weight of the bar. If you lift up on the bar and relieve it's weight load on the bolt, you should be able to get it out.

I have this unit, and I pull it around with an old garden tractor occasionally when I have a lot of extra clippings or the wife wants them for the garden after mowing 5 acres with the ZTR (or tractor). It's held up OK for whatever I paid on sale. The poles that hold the canvas bag to its shape...

Agreed, and well-explained! This is what thclimer was getting at, and what I meant by (A). The links thclimer posts have a diagram and instructions to include this type of relay (I got mine from NAPA) specifically on these tractors.

It would help to be clear about what click you hear. Is it (A) a "fainter" click of the ignition relays under the right cowl? Or is (B) a louder "clunky" click of the starter solenoid attached to the starter? If (A) my first suggestion would be to learn about the common starter relay problem...

That may save you some headache down the road! Good luck

Right before I read your last sentence, at the words "back to normal", I thought... "This sounds like an electrical problem." Then I read on: "The tractor does have electrical issues..." When I read post #2 and #3, I was agreeing that the problems seem unrelated, but a root electrical issue is...

Sorry no one replied yet. It's been almost a month, so maybe you've made some progress? Maybe post on the general board to get more views. I assume this is an HST tractor, but would be good to confirm. Do you get the same behavior if there is no impliment and you engage the PTO?

I have a TC29DA, and I am looking at my wiring diagrams. Assuming they are similar enough... Can you say exactly where you tested for power at fuel shutoff and starter relay? The fuel solenoid (#4 below) is connected to the injector pump. But this is controlled by a relay under the right...

The starter circuit modification dlctcg mentions is has been used by several (including me) to solve this sort or problem. It is covered in one of the two sticky threads at the top of this page, and I posted all the NAPA part numbers there when I did this last fall. Battery cables... yes, I...

Based on the description of symptoms and the circuit provided by thclimer, I would suspect a short in the hazard switch.

It is 6-9 ft-lb on my 2004 TC29da. Not the same engine, but but the spec would likely be close.

I'm not very familiar with your tractor, and I haven't run into fuel bleeding problems on mine, but perhaps there is something to learn on one of these: https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=410153...

If your electrical circuit is similar to mine (TC29DA), I'm really curious about the glow plug lamp light because I think that should conme on when you turn to ignition and that is separate from all the safety checks. If you have an operators manual, can you attach a pic of your starter system...

If you are looking at the center of thclimer's photo, no. The large red wire is +12V straight from the battery (and will be used to run the starter). The small red wire connected at that terminal with the red rubber boot is sending that +12V out through the firewall to (and powering) the...

Just to verify, this is definitely true on my TC29DA. I know from reading the wiring diagram and testing voltage at the glow plug busbar. So there are two ways the timer relay can fail: 1. It can stop working as a timer powering the glow plugs for sever seconds in IGN/RUN 2. It can stop...

Here is a brief clarification and update on performance. I mentioned that pins 3 and 6 are switched in figure 79 of the FSM (compared to the circuit board) in that last image I posted. This is true, and the text to the left "follows" that switch. Meaning that a user could follow those...

Two problems at once... I hate those! Glad you figured out the issues, and thanks for letting us know.

It's pretty hard to come up with one answer that addresses everything. Like you said, seems like fuel at first, then something electrical. The safety switch is an interesting idea, but that doesn't explain both "crank with no start" then "no crank", I think. Frist thing I'd do is be real sure...

I use a battery and continuity tester (multimeter) to test relays. I didn't see any mention of this... sorry if I missed it. I figured this is the common method.

My TC29DA has cranked longer to start with the cold, plus some erratic behavior at the glow plug light. This post is to share how I worked though things. I replaced the glow plugs in the process. For documentation, my New Holland P/N is SBA185366190. I paid $30 for eBay replacements and...

Yes, I agree on everything. CR and HR are forming processes independent of elemental composition. You can do either to many alloys. 1020 is 99.8% iron and 0.2% carbon, by weight, no matter how you form it. Although, the way you form in can change the properties. In class we describe...

I don't see how angle iron could be produced cold. That is too much of a bend to put into material cold... must be done hot. Likely because it's hard to accurately account for material temperature at the moment it is formed. That determines how much the material will shrink, and final size...

Good day. I just wanted to close the loop on my end. I did this job about a month ago... Ida delayed me a bit. Everything went fine. I could just barely get a 5 gal bucket under the drain plug (was afraid I'd drop the plug into the bucket or fumble a bucket switch), so I drove the tractor up...

Hello, I am the latest owner to suffer this intermittent starting problem, which has gotten worse over time. I have a TC-29DA. There is a LOT of information on this site about the issue, and a good bit of it very useful. I believe, as of yesterday, that my problem is resolved (5 strong starts...

Thanks for the replies and tips everyone! I did search old forum posts before putting the question out there, but I suspected that there was more than I actually found. Thanks SmallChange for noting your prior post. I searched you and found it. My plan for refilling was to heft the 5 gal...

Hello, I've owned my fist tractor, a New Holland TC29DA for almost two years. Got it used (obviously) from the previous owner of my property. It's great! It had somewhere between 400-500 hours when I got it, and now it's just over 600. I didn't have a maintenance history, but the previous...

I don't know what everyone else is thinking... I can buy a lot of toys for the price of a big new truck. A number of years back I bought a 68 F100 for $8k. I put at least that much into making it look and run great (mostly body and paint) so for under $20k total it's a truck that everyone...

There are plenty of people I wouldn't necessarily trust writing reviews out there. That said, I recently visited two dealers before purchasing a zero turn mower. The one with the higher reviews deserved them, and the one with the lower reviews deserved those too. Consider the reviews, but I...

I was in a very similar situation to Aaron about a year ago... Like old things, like tractors, so interested in buying an old tractor. Simple! I too was interested in a diesel, but like others said before, most tractors at the price/size are gasoline. I kept my eyes open and ended up with an...

Hello, I have a TC29DA which I use mostly for mowing. For that I have a 6ft Woods rear-mount, which I like. I'm a believer in redundancy (and a good deal), so I'm considering getting a mid-mount mower for it too. (The wife may prefer that as well.) The stock New Holland P/N that my...

It is a problem with oil passing through an internal breather to the intake manifold. See other posts and a link to another thread early on that documents a failure. It's a real issue for which NH posted a service bulletin. See the attached images from the SB.