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I bought a new Stihl a couple years ago, a FS94R. To my knowledge it is their own pro model with a traditional 2 stroke engine. The light weight sold me. My only gripe was right out of the box the carburetor was tuned way too lean. I richened the screws and all has been great since. I also have...

Oh one more thing, the 4wd 1700 was infamous for snapping front wheel shafts. I'd be cautious if I came across one.

I also have a 1710 which has 4wd and yes it's nice with a loader. That said, it's awful to mow with. These tractors are very front heavy with a loader, so I have to put it in 4wd to mow, where the 2wd 1600 (or 1700) would climb right up the hill. The loader also really cuts down on...

Break the bead then insert one of those battery transfer pumps for short money at Harbor Freight. Most likely the beet juice will clog the pump but since they are so cheap I would write it off.

My brother owns a Ford 1700 and I own a Ford 1600 which was directly before the 1700. It's a very handy size tractor that can do a lot of work, and they sip diesel. About the only application where I would choose the 1210 is if you mowed in tight areas.

I believe there is 2 common sizes and farm store's and some Wal-Mart's carry them.

I run a 1025R at work and it uses grade 5 shear bolts on the No. 47 snowblower.

I would rig up an alternator off a small gas engine.

Some Kubotas. Not all, offer a heavy duty top link bracket. To better distribute the weight. I looked into when my father got his 9000 backhoe but the bracket wasn't available for his model.

Two more pieces I can add. There is a bracket bolted to the middle of the tractor, that the front of the Woods subframe pins to. Although this bracket is tied into the loader, there are 2 bolts that go upside down into the tractor. We had problems with these bolts stripping out. Also the...

I should add, Woods has a subframe but still employs the top link hole (with heavier top link ) It surely is not stout like a Bradco. Also, the entire 3 pt arms need to be removed to mount the backhoe. I am used to it, but I can see it driving some people bonkers.

For sure you want 60". I have a pair of 25 and 26 hp tractors, my 1560 Land Pride is all they can handle. Even if it is sightly smaller than the tire footprint. Box blades gobble hp as bad as snowblowers.

I can not specifically answer your question, but I can offer this much. My father has a Woods BH9000 for his Kubota, that I have put more of the hours on than he has. In 20 years of use, I never once ran the engine at full tilt, 1800 to 2000 rpm usually. It has plenty of hydraulic power (for...

Sadly that is the way with these older imported tractors. They NLA parts and jack up the rest. Be glad it is even available. If it was mine I would call tractor salvage yards.

I would run it thru a Mr Funnel and then mix it 50-50 with new fuel.

I run a John Deere 4200 at work. Its been a very reliable tractor, pushing 4,000 hours.

All brands that are Japanese based compact will have parts availability issues. Old large American made tractors, typically 2wd do not.

The video showed a drop hitch with a giant drop. The recovery truck must have been jacked way up. I know people say nylon straps absorb shock but I have always felt safer with chains.

I work for a DPW. DPW owned trucks seldom leave town nor see highways. That is why they usually have low miles and have low geared axles. But, you will find all sorts of animals have driven and beat them. Granted there is careful drivers but it is not most. Our trucks are maintained on a fleet...

My dad bought a new King Kutter rotary tiller, I forget the year but its right around a 2000 era. Unsure if it is reverse or forward rotation, but it has been very reliable. Not long after he got it, the tractor was traded in for a much larger replacement, he kept the King Kutter and it does not...

Its the same principle older tractors used, except most of them had screws you would loosen, engage the starter, then tighten when air was gone. The push buttons sound pretty nice.

Like everything else, diesel fuel is probably getting lower quality. I treat my diesel year round and never have to remember or worry come cold weather.

Im really struggling to understand why you want bigger tires when the stock ( worn out tires you said ) have plenty of traction. Maybe you need a bigger tractor which by design will have correspondingly bigger tires.

The R4 is the compromise tire, which is perfect for the uses you described. Going up a size is asking for trouble. There is a reason manufactures chose the size they chose.

I agree with LouKY. It really depends on the hill and the ice you get. I had ladder chains on my Ford backhoe and it would not climb my driveway. Then I converted them into skidder chains, using grade 8 bolts and extra links. I have a few $ hundred in bolts, but now they work excellent and were...

Well I certainly give you credit, I have never heard this idea before...so you would have to cut half of the sheets as plywood has alternating grain. You also would need a truckload of glue, and a huge hydraulic press to assemble them. The biggest problem will be keeping the center perfectly...

Im a big Ford tractor fan. Simple, reliable, and parts are readily available. The Shibaura Fords are much harder to find parts for, but still excellent tractors.

Id not opt to weld this. If the 4500 is like my 3550, that rubber boot needs to be able to slide off for replacement. That will be impossible if its welded. Besides, the heat from the welding will destroy the rubber boot.

I have no time with a Long, but for so little use is it really worth upgrading....my understanding is every part of a 8N is still available.

If this is a backyard special I would put a die to the parts and get a threaded coupler nut. They used to be common at hardware stores but nowadays I order them off Ebay.

Im not familiar with metric sizes but a 17.5 x 24 has a far wider rim vs a 13.6 x 24.

Certainly the ground conditions you have makes a big difference. Im thinking any sort of stone, or crushed concrete would be a free flowing water drain and your posts would benefit.

Yes I agree there was a misunderstanding. I just wanted to clarify, many people do not realize swapping wheels around effects width. I am also pretty sure some tractors have a conical wheel stud mount that may not be on both sides. (OBS Ford and 1999 up Ford trucks come to mind, very different...

Its impossible to maintain tread direction when you swap wheels, unless you either, install the bolts from the other side of the rim, or dismount the tire and spin the tire around. Valve stems dont magically change position.

The 3500HD is comparable to a Ford F450, about 14,000 GVW. Keep in mind this was 1990s high end, not comparable to nowadays. For the average person a 3500 is a better choice. The parts are much cheaper than a HD. The truck is also lighter which is very beneficial to a 350ci. I dont know anyone...

Actually its the steel. Ive used the brass cores "rated" for calcium chloride and they dont last either. Certainly slow leaking tires are maddening.

The problem depends on where you live. Many people do not get frost heaves. The other thing is the copper preservative used in Pressure treated lumber since 2003, certainly is better for humans but does not last like pre 2003 wood. Ive seen pressure treated wood rot in 8 years. Its unreal.

No it will not and the reason this all matters is because most tractor rims have a built in offset which changes the width, as originally questioned by the OP.

Left to Right will not change valve stem side. It only changes the lug direction. To change the valve stem side you need to insert the lug bolts thru the opposite side of the rim.

You can argue a Ford is built heavier but a 3500 Chevrolet with either a 5.7 or 6.0L are both proven, reliable engines that are cheap to fix.

I read you checked the valve core but I am convinced they are getting cheaper and cheaper. I had some only a few months old crumble away.

You surely do not want concrete on fence posts. It will trap moisture and either rot the post, freeze and split the concrete, or both.

Many older 4wd tractors mentioned reversing the front wheels for loader work, that is swapping wheels left to right. But I gather you intend to swap the wheels as in changing the side the valve stem is on.

They used to offer a extra wide R3 tire called a Galaxy. It had shallow tread and was intended for golf courses. I have not heard these tires mentioned in many years, or if they are still made. That said, 10,000 lbs being towed in a sand dune is a big order....I would think a CTL to be a better...

That said the Intek is the worst engine Briggs and Stratton ever made. Maybe only beat by a Kohler Courage.

Kawasakis use plastic gears and more gasoline than my wifes Corolla. Id pass.

You should always have a hammer and a pocket knife.

In my area with zero gas stations selling ethanol free, chainsaw dealers, hardware stores, and box stores sell the pre mixed bottles.

Unfortunately many states do not sell ethanol free at the pump.

I use Stens 40- l. 50-1 is too lean especially with todays hot running engines.

Lots of people feel fuzzy by running 2 stroke oil in their ULSD but again theres no evidence it does anything.

But are you certain your injection pump wasnt worn from being so old, or what prior owners ran thru it.

I save the cardboard boxes that new chains come in. They may need duck tape or relabeling with a black marker but they last a long time. I put the boxes in a small tool box that I take with me into the woods.

I feel your pain. The generator on my Ford 3550 is set up the same way. I converted it to a GM alternator and now can not run my proof meter. Which was missing when I got the machine.

Sounds like the cross chains are too short.

Certain chemicals degrade plastic.

We have an John Deere GX335 at work that has a manually operated differential lock. Im pretty sure it is a Tuff Torq.

You would be better off buying an older used rake. In any event they perform 3x better with wheels.

Other than backhoes or skid steers I think R4s are terrible for tractors. R1 first. R3 distant second.

I know it as a log dog.

Many people "have heard" of injection pump issues in old diesels using ULSD but I doubt they are true. I run it in my 1973 Ford backhoe and my father runs in his 1973 Ford dump truck with a 8V71 Detroit with zero issues.

I set a cotton ball under the pine cone, with a piece of white birch bark around that. It really doesn't take much if the firewood is really dry. None of it is treated, just dry as possible.

A landscape rake will pull up rocks. Not ideal for gravel. I would get a stout box blade with adjustable rippers. Adjusting your top link really changes how much cut you get.

One of the best buys for me was when my friend offered to sell me his 1973 Ford backhoe. I couldn't buy a 3pt snowblower ( but I did already own one ) for what I have in this backhoe. At 50 hp / 10,000 lbs its light enough to not ruin my lawn, but strong enough to dig stumps and bust thru any...

Ive used Seafoam, but have equal luck using ATF in the gasoline. It must be Mercon/Dexron III as it has a gritty texture.

Im not a fan of burning oil or fuel inside my woodstove. A cleaner approach is white birch bark, pine cones, and cotton balls.

The box blade you have and a grader blade that tilts both ways is best for a gravel driveway. Everyone I know that bought a land plane was disappointed and sold it.

I have 3/32, 6013 rods. I like them for 1/8" or steel. My hats off to anyone who can weld 2 soup cans together with them....

I should add, those are known as Lincoln tombstone welders. They are very efficient at lots of welding, their big downside is fumes, and also they are not good at sheet metal.

For general purpose welding a 1/8" is what I like. 6013 is the best stick to resist burn thru. 6011 is a must for rusty, painted, questionable material. 7014 works well on new steel. I have never tried 7018 but hear its very strong, and also very sensitive to humidity.

Dolmar makes great saws but they dont have long, especially after giving up on gasoline engines. They never had good parts support, with zero aftermarket.

I run a 261C at work. Its not a strong felling saw.

About the best saw for the money has always been any of the Husqvarna 365 variants.

My 6 lever Ford 753 does not have that. I know some of the old Fords had Auto Dig, having never seen one nor understand it, maybe thats what you have.

Many Japanese tractors have limited parts availability, including the big names. That said there is also used parts, and work arounds alot of times. They are still well built tractors that if maintained can give years of service.

My forklift has calcium filled drive tires. Every few years one of the valve cores will rot away. Sometimes I need to dig out the broken piece out with a pick tool. Other times it dissolved or falls inside the tube.

I doubt a very small amount of suds will hurt anything. I prefer the clear barrels, but agree the rotary pump is the way to go. Electric pumps are expensive, and limiting. I can empty my 30 gallon barrel in a couple minutes tops. Would also not suggest a lever pump as the leverage can strip out...

Lets not be wild and label tools as toys....no reason to upset the wife. :)

I put a rotary pump on a 30 gallon clear plastic barrel. Also, filling up a 5 gallon can , 1/2 full to lift up to a tractor feels 1/4 the weight of 5 gallons, it seems.

Park it up to something unmovable and see if it will spin the tires . My father loaned out his GST for one weekend and it returned with a smoked clutch. The dealership who sold the tractor new to us replaced the clutch. One of the owners showed me, it was the bluest clutch he ever saw. The idiot...

I can vouch for Land Pride being very well built. As far as width generally figure one size under what implements you normally use. A box blade full of dirt very quickly will load you down.

Learn to troubleshoot.

I would certainly call it a gamble but if the price is right, go for it. Your odds of winning at scratch tickets are probably no better.

Wow I really need to read the dates.

I would get a good size tractor. Like an older Ford with a category 2 , 3 point hitch. Very easy to get parts and good solid tractors.And then either a compact telehandler or compact articulated loader. Both take SSQA implements and much more enjoyable than a skid steer that will bounce you to...

One of the the best things I ever bought was a Hoyer lift. I use it constantly to raise all sorts of things. Its much smaller than an engine hoist, much less room is needed to store it and its quick and light to move around.

I do not believe R4 were an option for most of these Shibaura Fords. I agree with a 8 ply, R1. I like BKT and Firestone tractor tires.

I agree with mixing pine with other wood to resist clogging, if you have other wood to chip. Myself I like chipping evergreens because its less taxing on the chipper and I burn most everything in my woodstove down to about 1-1/2". You also can not beat the smell of fresh cut and chipped pine.

Definitely want the premium hydraulic fluid in anything that shares the hydraulics with the transmission.

I use a Painters tool for the bar and also a brush. Along with a battery powered blower if compressed air is not around.

The 10 series Kubotas are excellent, reliable tractors. You wont have a problem selling it.

All tires suck on ice. Its far from an isolated R4 problem.

So....one buys a no name brand, knowing theres poor dealer support and few dealers, then is upset when you need to drive 1200 miles for a warranty repair... Im not seeing for one second how this is an LS problem. Sounds far more like a typical cheap, entitled consumer.

I would never sell my stick welder. Maybe I weld more thick rusty metal than average but I have to have 6011 rod.

I agree with the loader but, tractors without loaders can still get a ton of work done. Im lucky to have both.

My father had a Miller 251 that he bought new. I dont know the specs but it certainly will weld 1/2". He lost it in a garage fire so he went out and bought a used 250. No issues with either machine other than you need to replace the liner every so often. Theres a dealer within 20 minutes so...

I forget to add, I use it on my 25 and 26 hp Fords. The seller was using it on a 40 hp Ford. He told me several times he buried it and halted his tractor and did zero damage to the box blade.

I bought a used Land Pride box blade, I have been very happy with both its ruggedness and performance. The only issue I had was the pair of braces that go up to the top link pin were bent when I got it. I straightened them and added some horizontal bars and all has been well since.

Have used both for a very long time and there is no way Id get rid of R1 for R4. They are more stable, and easier on grass, and stronger. But thats where the advantages end. In mud they clog up almost instantly.

I bought a Fisher snowplow along with belt drive hydraulic pump off a Ford Bronco and installed it on my Ford 1600 with no loader. Its worked perfect for many years.

Ive used my cheap pto shaft with zero issues and theres no fear of damaging my tractor. If you want to overpay for a shaft thats most likely still made overseas, have at it.

I ordered one from Ebay. It was the lowest price I could find, about $150. Granted it was a couple years ago, I do not know if they went up.

You really need a vertical tilting grader blade for a driveway but that said a box blade is so effective for leveling and refurbishing land that I would buy both.

By far the longest lasting battery I have ever seen is on my fathers Kubota. L3710. He bought it new in 2002 and now its 2022, that is 20 years and still running the battery it came with. I can not ever recall jumping it, and at 1400 hours the battery certainly has sat at times.

I agree with this, after running backhoes for the last 25 years. Lots of variables.

My father has a 9000 Woods backhoe on his Kubota, we used to use it alot for digging deck piers. For digging stumps, it is not the right machine. Way too small and you really are beating the tractor for nothing. For your uses, I would look for an older Ford or Case backhoe. Ive seen some steller...

A few years ago I finally bought a 3pt, 2 stage snowblower. Thinking it would solve many problems. In reality Ive spent far more time unclogging it then any production. I also have 3, single stage snowblowers on garden tractors that certainly can clog, but have been far more useful for the wet...

You probably found something by now but I run the purple heavy duty antifreeze in my similiar Fords.

If you can only do one axle, the rear. I have a really steep driveway and we get blasted with super wet dense snow. My only 4wd tractor needs v bar chains front and rear to climb said driveway and apply small crushed stones with my Herd 3pt spreader. Rear chains and 4wd is often not enough. I...

I also have that blade. Totally agree the bolts are a complete joke. I finally mounted a side link to adjust the tilt. Lost the offset but well worth it. Its not a super heavy blade but it works surprisingly well.

Just wondering if many of you use this oil, it seems decent to me, and price wise comparable or less than the big names.

Anyone find a brake cleaner that is not hazardous to our health? I was using 3M high power but after watching it destroy my nitrile gloves in seconds, I would like to find something else. The fumes from the 3M were pretty obnoxious as well.

Okay got another question. What is the correct way to adjust the torsion bars? I am not entirely, well not really at all certain on the theory behind them. Maybe some of my GM friends can enlighten me.

I asked at a Chevrolet dealer one time, was told certain electrical connections can be different.

You want tractor/transmission fluid, not straight hydraulic fluid.

I have to think I am just one of many that is really sick of the height of new pickups. You need to carry a ladder on board just to reach them!

How often do you rotate your tires, if at all? Pickups and 6 wheel mason dumps. There are a lot of "right answers" at work.

Any members try this? Right now, I have to keep on hand: 5W40, 15W40, 10W30, 30W, and 5W30, in both regular and synthetic. A, It is getting tiresome stocking and tracking all of these weights. And B, the 5W40 would allow the engines to start bettter in the winters around me that seem to get...

My F.I.L. bought a new Toyota Tacoma pickup. He loves it. At a birthday party we were discussing the truck. I questioned it's towing capacity, and, since he never tows anything, he did not know. But now I am curious. Any Tacoma owner's tow? Also wondering on the mpg. His V-6 gets 18-20mpg...

My 1710 has a 770B loader. It works fine, except the control valve lever is very sloppy. Dumping is the worst, the lever seems to max out before the cylinders engage all the way. So I'm wondering, has anyone went and replaced their valve? Such as from Northern Tool? My loader has one lever, but...

One of my tractors is a 1977 Ford 1600 diesel. It was a DPW mower and has about 3,700 hours on it. Every time I check/change the engine oil, it is black as licorice. I just did an oil change with Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 and a Napa Gold filter. Within like 45 seconds, the new oil was as...

So a while ago, the spout for my chainsaw gasoline can broke. I have been delaying replacing it, mostly out of fear of the new EPA versions. However, I went to cut firewood this weekend and spilled gas all over my 660 and finally decided to retire the old can, which was about 10 years old. I...

So I've been considering a new tractor. Choosing between two oranges, or a New Holland. Im doing a kitchen remodel for a customer who just bought a 35, to replace his MF 203. I looked it over, seems like a nice machine. The specs look much better than the T15 series. I was wondering if anyone...

The fuel tank straps rusted off. I undid the lines, removed the tank, fixed the straps, remounted the tank. I have bled diesels before, just not this one. My '94 7.3L NA had a bleeder valve, but this '99 does not seem to?

Ive been eyeballing some new tractors and was wondering about the CK35s. While the DKs are nice, they may be too much for my needs. The DS3510 had better 3pt lifting power, but the CK35 seemed more rugged. This would be my first Kioti, if I got it.

Any owners of newer Stihls know how to start them at idle speed. Especially in the brush, Im not a fan of the OEM full throttle setup.:(

Do any of you mix used ( but well filtered ) engine oil with new diesel then running it as fuel in older tractors. I thought maybe 5% or 10%, but maybe it's a dumb idea?

Anyone use a subsoiler to rip out medium size rocks? Do they actually work, or are they best used for loosening hard packed ground?