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It appears that it only feeds the gauge lights as mentioned earlier.

Back at it after another pause and trying to get this thing up and running. One item I do not see in these drawings but in the factory wiring diagrams is the inverter. Can someone explain what the inverter does exactly?

Thank you both. This will help chase down existing. I have plenty of wire and can run any replacement as needed. The confusion for me is understanding the current flow and how power gets downstream for the various components. If I am taking the original external regulator out of the equation...

It has been a minute since I was here. I have made a little more progress on the project with a radiator rebuild, installation of new gauges, and starting the reassembly of the front sheetmetal. I now am faced with getting everything wired back up and honestly am at a loss. As you can guess...

That is awesome.

Jeep, now there’s a money pit. Just Empty Every Pocket. Drove an ‘89 Wrangler with a ‘93 Chevy TBI motor for 15 years.

Starting to go back together.

Yeah, I figured I would buy once cry once. Replacing everything I can at this time so I won’t have to revisit for a long time.

Got busy for a while but slowly making progress.

Hahaha, yeah a chrome brush guard would really set it off with chrome front wheels and the rear center pans as well. Now to figure out where to mount the 8 track and 6x9 speakers. I am no painter but I cranked up the air and the paint delivery wide open on my HF gun, did not thin the Rustoleum...

I’ve made some pretty good progress over the last few days.

Thanks redman, I will additionally check the control linkage boot per your recommendation. I plan to replace all of the wiring once I get it all mapped out. I have located all of the zerks and fortunately the remote zerk for the front axle pivot is already installed. It appears the safety...

I am looking at replacing all of the gauges and switches. My tach was disconnected and full of rusty water, others full of condensation, headlight switch rusted up, etc.. I have located some aftermarket units at yesterdays tractor but not an original reproduction of the tach. I will keep an eye...

It honestly is amazing to think this machine is 55 years old and still solid. I was told it sat outside in the weather most of its life with a cup over the exhaust. While there is some rust and pitting of the hood and other parts of the sheet metal, nothing is rusted through like I expected. I...

Yep, same manual. The steering wheel was not an issue for me. The nut and washer were missing. I actually shot it with some PB Blaster and pulled it off by hand the next morning.

Thank you Jethro. It looks like you inherited a nice 135. What year? I was going to go the rattle can route but cans only cover about 7 square feet which can get expensive real quick. I may maintain it with cans going forward. As for electrical, mine has a 3 wire alternator and what I believe is...

Lol. I can’t. I need this thing back together for spring cutting. The list is getting long, paint, tires, gauges, maintenance items. Right now I have more time than money.

Disassembly and cleaning continued today with the removal of the gauges and dash. The rust on the hood was a little tougher to remove and I may end up taking it somewhere to be blasted. Once I get a few more things removed, I’ll roll it out for several rounds of Purple Power, oven cleaner, and...

I will take a butt connector and electrical tape over this mess any day. I am searching for the logic in using a couple of wire nuts and some smaller gauge wire to make this connection to the alternator. Oh, and lets just twist that wire together finger tight in the center... The gas gauge...

Well as factory fresh as a first time paint job shot in the driveway with a HF gun will allow. Lol The tough part is going to be prepping everything else. I don’t care to spend weeks scraping and cleaning the entire chassis. I will look into the valve lash as suggested while it is apart. I also...

Started degreasing and cleaning with the pressure washer. Then started pulling things apart, starting with the sheet metal. A 4” grinder with knotted wire wheel made some quick work of paint removal.

I purchased my first tractor this past weekend, a 1966 MF135 Perkins diesel. She’s an ugly old pig but seems to be in fair shape mechanically, cranking immediately and running smoothly without smoke. In the coming weeks I plan to change all fluids, chase down and repair all of the...

As you stated, the diesel is the standard and really the only way to go. Rebuild kits are cheap and hopefully it will last a while before it needs to come apart. The hog is a little rough but serviceable. The center hub is pretty rusty and the wheel hub is busted but the gear box feels solid. I...

Ha, well apparently those Europeans are the only ones posting pictures. LOL I will keep digging. My plans are simple, maintain/cut around 7 acres to keep from destroying my zero turn. You are correct, this one has a two stage PTO, half way down with the clutch to stop motion, all the way down...

Yeah, it looks like all of the sheetmetal has potentilly been swapped. The hood is different as well.

Thank you Thomas. I visited Tractordata and if I read the chart correctly it would be a '66. However, every image I find of a '66 has the headlights in front as part of the grill as seen below. That being the case, I guess this post needs to be moved to the vintage subforum. lol

I just made my first tractor purchase and joined this forum to learn. It spent most of its life outside so the sheetmetal is a little rough on the surface but nothing is rusted through. It appears to be in pretty good shape mechanically, cranks immediately and runs smooth, no smoke, hydraulics...