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Most important way to prevent the rust is to get the grass out after every mow. I have a farm jack and lift the mower up afterwards and pressure wash the underside, so no rust at all. When I prepare the mower for winter storage in an unheated storage barn I spray the underside with fluid film.

I have a tractor that weighs about 5K lbs with the blower on it and I plow a 500’ driveway that slopes down hill. While I have done it for 8 yrs without chains I splurged last year and got chains just for the days when the lane is a sheet of ice. It was well worth the $3K for the chains and I...

Depends upon how long you want to keep your truck I guess. In Canada in the warmer eastern provinces if you spray a rust inhibiting oil like Krown, Fluid Film or Rust Check under your vehicles and inside door panels every fall before the salt appears on the road you can keep your vehicles rust...

Duct tape, with your track record it is certain to get walloped again and again. 😉

3 in 1 20 weight machine oil is all I use. Cheap and effective.

If anyone without a gas fitters ticket does anything to that assembly your insurance may be null and void. Call the gas company

Easiest is a grinding disc on a 5” or 6” grinding tool and you sharpen them in place. Try to keep them evenly ground to reduce vibration. The more laborious way is to remove the blades and take them to the grinder, I don’t do it that way.

I have a dealer not 10 km away so I delivered the tractor to them as they were going to likely have to split the tractor to repair the leaking line and replace the burnt PTO clutch pack. They did the pressure test before splitting the tractor which confirmed the leak and the replacement line has...

I had an internal leak in a hydraulic line in my 1840, it resulted in low pressure on PTO clutch and slipping. Had to split the tractor, replace the line with a hole worn in it and the clutch pack. You can test the pressure externally to verify if this is the likely cause. New line is slightly...

The bald faced wasps will only live above ground, in a tree or an old building or under the eaves of a building. Much more aggressive than yellow jackets and a much more painful sting, just took a nest out in a cherry tree I mow under while it was only grapefruit sized, wasn’t going to wait...

The biggest aggravation with new trucks is that you cannot buy a simple farm truck anywhere today, they are all loaded with comfort features and options to out-compete the neighbour’s new truck and as a result are $50K +. One should be able to buy a bare bones F150 4WD with manual everything and...

I have the YJ building nests under the deck and I use a spray foaming wasp blaster with the pipette that I can poke thru the cracks between the deck boards and into the nest at midnight and give the nest a fill of insecticidal foam. Works every time and no risk.

Why don‘t you just put tubes in the tires if they are not holding air? I picked up this one five years ago and it had sat outside since 1979 and needed new tires, rims and tines. Since the wheels were off I replaced the oil seals and added a new fuel filter and air filter. The rest was just...

Polish it up a bunch and the cut will get filled with polish, adds character. The first ding is the one that hurts that most.

I plant trees to improve the diversity within my patch and try and get a leg up on nature.

Always get a chuckle seeing a gravity feed chipper “only used once” for sale, someone obviously found it a little too exciting. If you only need it once, wouldn’t you rent it?

I have a 60 hp PTO and run the WC88 and think the Woodland Mills are a well engineered unit. The hydraulic infeed can be set to the speed needed by the work. The hinged flywheel cover means it is easy to access the flywheel, and I can drive the tractor into the garage without removing the chute...

Enjoy the Ferris, they are a top tier mower. I missed a great deal on a used one like yours and bought a new Toro Titan 60”. Good ZT mowers are not cheap but they perform better and have greater durability.

If you need a SCUT, buy one, but personally I would keep the 2010 for when you need to blow snow, run a chipper, brush hog a field, etc. The 2010 was designed as a real tractor used in Agriculture and designed to last and to work hard. The SCUT is a rich man’s toy and useful life is measured in...

Coming along very well, now that you have it running and rolling would be worth changing all fluids and filters if not already done.

I have a Model 71 in 348 Winchester that is all the lever gun I will ever need. My father bought it new in the early 60’s. Crazy what they are worth now, this one was never tapped for a scope and is a sweet shooter.

Mine are the OEM toothed belts.

I have not experienced any issues with mine.

On my 1840 I experienced frequent issues as you described and I took the starter to an auto electric shop for service and they cleaned it, lubed it, new bushings and a new starter solenoid to the tune of $150 and I have never had any issues since.

Were you able to determine the cause of issue with the PTO? Or did you leave that for the next owner? Enjoy the new machine.

I would look at leaving the hood open so no shelter for critters, plus setting up a few well baited 5 gal pails with flip traps and 6” of water Close to where your tractor is parked. Try and interdict them before they get into the tractor. Stop killing the snakes in your area ;-)

JD2030, sent you a PM with info from the repairs I did on mine in 2017.

The older JD were prone to developing an internal hydraulic leak that resulted in insufficient pressure at the clutch pack and resulted in a burned up clutch pack. The fix is to split the tractor, replace the pipe with the hole, and the burned up clutch, might as well replace hydraulic filter...

Routine maintenance tasks like lubrication and fluid and filter changes I will do, battery swaps, radiator flushes, are easy too. A few years ago I had the local dealer crack the tractor and replace the PTO clutch pack and some worn internal piping and shift linkages, as it was worth the cost...

I know a farmer who dropped a large pine tree onto an SUV that didn’t respect the no trespass/no hunting signs on his land. The farmer charged the vehicle owner to remove the tree as well. No legal issues as well within his rights.

Really nothing to worry about, it isn’t like you are running it on a 120 hp tractor. Does the PTO drive shaft have a slipping clutch or shear bolt? My chipper has a hydraulic feed so it isn’t easy to over feed it, but that is where the shear bolt is handy. At 40 hp you are basically comfortable...

You can also use segmented belt as well, I replaced mine that way as the front mounted hydraulic pump would otherwise need to be removed to use a single piece belt.

Today is much warmer, hopefully you will get it started OK without glow plugs. What are you using for oil, I would suggest a good synthetic and would also get a block heater or a robust in line coolant heater.

You need to decide what you need and are willing to pay for, the fancy studded and Euro pattern chains cost a lot more than standard chains and I don’t get what people are talking about when it comes to ride with a tractor unless you have a lot of transits on paved roads at higher speeds. These...

The danger with these PTO gensets is that it is so easy for them to go off spec and then you get over voltage or brownout which may not be too much of a problem with incandescent lights and electric baseboard heaters but it can certainly damage motors and any electronics. Most fridges, stoves...

If there is a leak in the tank such that it only holds a half tank without leaking that would be good to know. I would put a drip tray under the tractor to see if it is still leaking or not. Should be easy enough to trace where the leak is coming from if not the tank itself. The tank in my...

My tractor also has a de-stroking capability for the hydraulic pump which will reduce the load on the crank when starting. A handy feature if starting cold in the field. Not sure if that is standard on most.

I have an in-line coolant heater on my John Deere and a battery warming blanket. To reduce engine wear and reduce warm up time I always plug the coolant heater in for 30-60 minutes before starting as it warms the entire block and the engine pops right off and I don’t need to use the glow plugs...

No chips or complicated electrical systems in those older machines, if you can get it turning over it will start and run all day.

Road apples are the least of my concerns, they dry up and blow away. People that don’t scoop after their dogs are far more annoying IMO.

Cab helps a lot when you brush cut the wasps nest or when the snow flies.

Very sad, regardless of exact what happened. My “baby” chipper has hydraulic feed and this was an important safety feature for me as it controls the feed rate and provides a way to stop it should a piece of clothing get somehow snagged in operation.

My century home is oriented south and we are zone 5 as well but from my experience your summer is a lot longer and hotter than your winter is cold. If you put big windows facing south, either have deep soffits to shade them in summer or else put crank out awnings for summer months. My second...

Very cool, little expense but time and energy.

I think you get what you pay for, I am very pleased with my Woodland Mills WC88 chipper that is engineered in Canada and fabricated in China. It is was affordable and does all I ask of it and was a good choice as I wasn’t going to pay twice as much for a North American made unit.

That impeller looks very primitive and I wonder if it was balanced, likely not which could explain the wear in the pillow blocks. With the square ends it must be very loud. How is the vibration in use?

I have a Husqvarna gas saw but also a Li-ion saw that shares the same battery as the cordless hedge trimmer. I like the electric saw for the small quick jobs as no need to mix fuel, just turn it on and go. Very handy on a ladder as much lighter than the gasoline saw when pruning. Still need...

Out this evening chipping brush with my WC-88, not a hicup with 60 hp driving it.

I ordered a WC88 in Feb and it was delivered 10 days later, works great.

I would establish a ditch so that the water has a place to go, line it with stones and geotextile to limit expansion.

I have a JD 1840 German made from 1980 and I would not trade it for a slightly newer machine. Your machine has hardly been used and has tons of life left in it if properly maintained. The older machines are straight Diesel engines with no pollution control or microchips to worry about. Your...

I spray with lime sulphur and dormant oil before the buds open once the frost is done, and again with Ambush after the blossoms are gone to keep the worms and caterpillars off the trees. Cannot use Ambush while the tree is in blossom as it is deadly to pollinators. Seems to be a good combination...

If you have a concrete abutments I would look for some salvaged steel I beams to replace the 6 x 12 and use at least three, and then your problems should be solved. Steel isn’t cheap but you will only fix it once.

My chipper was shipped by Day & Ross. I never considered the tow behind unit as I as I wanted to use it only on my property and the torque and power available from the diesel driven PTO was much more efficient than having another small gasoline motor to maintain. I bought a trailer hitch mount...

I wouldn’t let the Chinese manufacture of the Woodland Mills products scare you off a great product. I have a WC88 that I run off a 60 hp PTO but I got the larger 8” chipper just to handle the twisted bits better as anything over 4” becomes firewood. The assembly of the Woodland Mills chippers...

Good Luck, I am sure it will work fine. The stuff is more expensive than a regular belt but saves enough work to be worth it In situations like this.

I get this stuff at the local woodworking supply shop up here, you buy it by the foot. I just used the old belt as a guide and got it on there, tightened it up, and back in business. You should be able to find it online easily if not locally, you want the the 1/2” size. Buy an extra foot, you...

I have a 2440 and when the belt on it started to fail I removed it and put in a sectional drive belt. Took 20 minutes and saved a bunch of work. A year later still going strong.

Some 60% dynamite and a pry bar was a quick and effective solution before 9/11 made it so difficult to get explosives. Burning is safer and less likely to bring the heat and light into your yard 😝

Glad to hear you like your Titan as I have a 60” Titan being delivered today.

Greetings and welcome.

Interesting discussion, I just bought a Toro Titan 60” with MyRide as it will save a lot of time mowing around trees and objects. Looking forward to delivery in a few weeks.

Was a beautiful day to get out and make some chips while the ground is still frozen. The WC88 performance was great and it had no problem chipping up to 5” of pin cherry without any issues. The 5” was more of a test as I normally will save anything 3”+ for stove wood.

The power company will only buy excess power to the maximum of what you consume, so any excess beyond that becomes free power for the utility. However, it isn’t costing me any extra to go big. My future demand will increase so I am scaling it to meet my future needs.

Finally got a good gap without snow so had a chance to mount the WC88 and tomorrow will give it a functional check in the woods. With 60 hp at the PTO it should not have any problem.

The company I contracted with is Polaron, one of the larger residential solar companies here in Canada. They provide the financing. The $10K rebate is from the provincial government, currently the best solar rebate in Canada. Hard to understand why more people are not doing this as it cost me...

Installed a 18.49 kW ground mounted system in Nov and it is performing very well. With a $10K rebate and no interest financing I will pay $348/month for 12 yrs after which I will only pay $40/month for net metering and tax. Hydro cost was averaging $350/month in 2019 and rates have risen since...

Here is a shot of mine and it is brand new, not sure if it is any different than yours.

I have a 1840 (same as 2440) and it runs well, no issues and all of a sudden no start, no way, with the ignition circuits. The battery is good and starter contacts are all tight and I suspect it is electrical, as I can hotwire it and it pops right off. I suspect that the start safety switch...

I love my Horse, a 1979 model that I bought used a few years ago. Stored outside for over 30 years so needed new tires and some paint. It has the original 7 hp Kohler engine and burns no oil. Simple and reliable, built to last forever.

Had a spell of snow and high winds and needed to clear the lane four times in two days. Love this reliable and simple machine.

That will be a $2000 machine when done. Easiest thing with the motor is to remove it and take it to a small engine repair shop and have them assess and repair it. Mine has a 7 hp Koehler and it burns no oil and starts on the second pull. The Koehler motors are far better than any of those cheap...

I built this little stand out of salvaged PT, works for me. This PHD is heavy and I don’t want to lie it down when not in use. Much easier on the back this way.

My JD 1840 was 35 yrs old when I picked it up. Had 6600 hrs on it but previous owner had done in-frame overhaul and put new tires on it. I use it mostly for blowing snow and the odd chore in the summer. Will likely last me forever at less than 40 hrs per year. Could not justify buying a new...

I have three presses, a General (Canada) 340 15 floor model with a 1.5 hp three phase motor and a VFD for electronic speed control, a Buffalo 18 tin top floor model beast for larger chores, and a Buffalo 15 tin top bench model. All of them are good solid North American machines that will...

60 hp diesel and a 72” blower keeps the lane open no matter how much snow.

I have a vertical muffler and a longer stack but I don稚 use it too often as it must be removed in order to park the tractor inside, so I have a six inch stack without any muffler. Yes, it is quite loud.

This is the stand I built for my PHD out of some salvaged PT wood.

I picked up a 1981 JD 1840 row crop (same as 2440) last fall and was curious about the speeds. JD made this tractor in 8/4 and 16/8 speeds and if you look at the tractor it has 8/4 speeds per shift levers, but it also has the Hi-Lo selector. Is this how JD makes a 16/8, as the Hi-Lo selector...

I recently picked up an older John Deere PHD, a 31 possibly but there is no data plate on it anymore. Not sure what this one was originally rated for but I have a 60 hp PTO so it will have plenty of power to turn it. It seems to be bigger and tougher than the stuff they sell new these days and...