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Thought I'd post a progress update since its been awhile. First, I want to say thanks for the tips on the cam gear install, that helped greatly. I peened the woodruff key as you mentioned and that worked great to hold it in place. I also put the cam in freezer and heated the gear and was...

My dash is slightly different, but I believe that is your fuse box with fuses/fuse wires for lights, accessories, etc..

I have had a D2000FDii for several years which is the 4wd model. Mine has the KE130 2 cyl diesel. The motor has run well and has always been an easy starter. The prev owner had replaced water pump and alternator which seem to be common issues. I had the usual water contamination in hydraulic...

Hi John, Thanks for tip on peening the woodruff key itself, I hadn't thought about trying that. Well after cleaning out some of the freezer for Independence Day cookout, wife has now approved space for the camshaft in freezer, so its chilling in there now!🙂 Started checking around locally for...

Hi Jaxs, Thanks, this new cam and gear is the snap ring type. It has a small center bore (I guess from manufacturing it), but isn't threaded like the original cam, I sure wish it was threaded. The gear has some chamfer on back side and when the gear is heated, it will start onto shaft pretty...

Were you able to get your fuel issue resolved? About 20yrs ago, I had a similar situation occur after replacing the fuel strainer and mounting bolt at the carb. The replacement strainer and bolt were the generic replacements sold in the chain tractor stores for Ford. After installing the new...

Well things are still dragging on way too slow with this project due to other priorities. I still do not have the cam gear installed. 🙄 I've made several attempts heating it and am able to get it started onto the the camshaft but getting perfect alignment with the woodruff key before the gear...

Thanks John, I do have one of the Harbor Freight 20Ton press in the shop. I like the press but the closest freezer or oven is about 10min away. About the only source of heat that I could set up at the shop would be a small portable propane stove burner (or charcoal BBQ pit.) As you mentioned...

Thanks John, Since I still had the oil pump out, I tried your tip using the glass plate to clean up the oil pump gear plate. I used some 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper with a glass door piece I had on hand and it worked very well. Here's some before/after pics. The original scratches/grooves...

Sorry that I haven't posted any updates for a while. I had a little mishap while trying to load an old school heavy plow into truck bed by myself (which I no longer recommend! :eek:). I had set the 3pt hitch end of plow up onto truck tailgate and was lifting the plow end with a long pry pole...

Thanks John, glad I waited to hear from you! I checked the side seals dry and they seemed like they were a little short (they didnt really protrude above the bearing cap). I wasnt sure if they would also swell enough in length to fill this. I did notice that even though they were mostly loose...

John-your seal instructions were great! (y)(y) It took me quite a while as I kept second guessing myself on getting the seal protrusion correct, and then it initially felt like crank might be in a bind, so I had the crank in and out several times checking. But everything feels good and mains...

John, Thank you very much for your excellent write up on the rope seal installation! I will be picking up some #2 permatex this afternoon and start prepping for the seal install. Completed the plastigage check on the mains, all 3 bearings were very slightly under .003". While cleaning oil...

Thanks John, Theres definitely something to be said for the longevity of the rope seal. Until the tractor got flooded, it had over 40yrs of service on it and the rope seal installed by the Ford dealer in the 1970 rebuild never had any leaks. Would you be willing to share some of your tips on...

I had to clean up the crankshaft again but I'm about ready to put it in and check bearing clearance w/plastigauge. I was also looking at the new rear main seal that came with the rebuild gasket kit that I purchased a few years ago. The seal in the kit is the old style rope type seal. But I...

Thanks John, That puts my mind at ease, I was so worried it was going to be some special unobtainable orifice. Now I can get back to some reassembly:)

Well, its hard to believe that it is now March and I just got my engine block & head from the shop! Now Hopefully I can get it put back together. I dropped it off in back in early January, since I needed to have the flywheel machined, I figured I would get the block and head chemical cleaned...

Just wanted to post a quick update, progress has been slow with the holidays. Parts are trickling in, some took 2-3 weeks to arrive. I now have new rings, new lifters, and other parts but havent taken anything to machine shop yet, partly due to their holiday schedule. I'm planning to order...

Thanks John, I'm following advice on going back with Std size pistons and rings and starting to get things together for that work. I've been looking at cams online over the weekend and will be taking the original cam to shop for estimate this week. In looking online, evidently there are a...

Thanks Guys! This is all sounding much better than my original concerns of boring oversize. I texted my machinist about keeping it standard piston/rings. He said cleanup and crosshatch of cylinders might increase bore size maybe .0015" to .002" at the most . When we measured everything, we...

Good morning John, Jax, I appreciate your comments on the measurements, your thoughts are along the same route as my machinist friend. He and I were joking when he started measuring that his mics had to be off calibration :) (since the readings showed such little wear), but he wasnt too amused...

Thanks Roadworthy! I wanted to post back, I checked with Valley Tractor they were very helpful, I was unable to get a SAE250 oil and ended up using a SAE140 GL4 oil.

I was able to get some measurements on the cylinder wear from my machinist friend so thought I'd share them. The wear isnt too bad for 40 years since rebuild The book listed bore spec as 3.900" and we measured the following: Cylinder Bottom of Bore (Inline) with no wear Bottom of skirt...

Thanks Guys, sorry for the delay in reporting back. I took the advice here to have the rim welded so I could get the tractor back in use. The previous owners business/shop welded it for me at no charge and it doesn't have an insert. I spent some time on the inner side of the rim hub to grind...

Thanks John, I'll check on the Tisco parts. I have everything disassembled and the engine block is out of the tractor. It had quite a bit of rust inside from the floodwater, mostly up around the camshaft and lifters. The rust seems like mostly loose scale and seems to be coming off with...

Thanks guys, Yeah I can see that Overbore kit being used a marketing/sales gimmick--"...we can get you more horsepower for the same labor install as a standard kit and for less material cost than the standard kit...And this overbore kit is the only kit you need to stock...one size fits all...

Hi Guys- I forgot to mention this is 1955 850 with the Gas engine. Due to the flood, the bottom area of the sleeves below the piston stroke has some rust. I can feel some slight wear but I have a machinist friend coming in a few days to get accurate measurements on the bore and crank, so I'll...

I've owned my Ford 850 for over 40 years and it was last overhauled in 1970. It ended up getting submerged in a major flood and I plan to remove block, crank, and overhaul everything. I'm looking at the sleeve/piston kits and see that there is the standard 3.90" bore kit and a 4.0" overbore...

Brief update--I spoke with Valley Power and others regarding the rim. The rim is beyond repair of just reinforcing the center lug area as additional cracks and holes were found in the rim bead area. They also suggested getting a new blank 5x14 rim and having the new center with proper bolt...

Oops.. I forgot to include these pics of the overall rim view

Thanks for the replies and ideas, I was really interested in trying to get an insert made and welded. When I took pics to attach today, I noticed more cracks/fractures that actually run outward from the lug holes into the curved part of the rim. I've had this tractor for a little over 10...

Thanks, my son and I had thought about welding it but since its broken thru 3 of the lugs,we didnt feel comfortable doing a good repair on it ourselves. We are looking into a shop welding it, but over 60% of our area is still without power due to the hurricane. Hoping by Tuesday some places...

I just discovered major cracks in my right front rim. There is a major continuous crack running between 3 of the 4 lug holes. Does anyone know if there is a generic replacement rim or part number? This is the 4WD model and it uses a 6.00-14 tire. The lug hole spacing looks to be about 5...

The old Satoh S630D manual that I use for my Mitsubishi D2000iiFD shows that the Rear Final Drive uses SAE250 Gear Oil but front differential uses SAE80EP. I know there were some changes regarding the transmission/hydraulic oil spec and that the general consensus was to use UTF in trans/hyd...

Thanks to everyone for the information, I wanted to give an update. I didnt't find any part numbers or ID's on the ignition switch itself but after cleaning around the front of switch, I found a tiny number stamped above the key slot "123243". Using Peter315's link to the ILCO files, I found...

Guys, Thanks for the quick response! I checked with Valley Power this afternoon but they only have the complete switch assemblies with keys. I'll try search for a key a little longer before replacing the switch. The link to ILCO Keys provided by Peter 315 was very helpful. Their Construction...

Well my Mitsubishi D2000iiFD ignition key has broken off and the keyed portion has been lost. It appears that it has the original ignition switch, does anyone know if this is one of the generic keys that can be purchased on the Bay? I would prefer not to replace the entire switch if I can just...

I have a Ford 850 that Ive owned and used for 30 years and it has been a great workhorse for me. I've always experienced some carb issues over the years, like sticking float, etc... It has a Marvel TSX706 and I have rebuilt it several times over the years which restores normal operation for a...

Hello, I recently purchased a Mitsubishi D2000ii FD and have been reading all the great information posted here. As recommended I pulled and cleaned the hydraulic screen, but have a question about the spacer on the hydraulic screen: There is a black rubber/plastic spacer between the outer...

Hello All, I am looking for a pair of flat cutter blades approx 7/16" thick x 3" wide x 25 1/2" long. The mounting hole is 1 1/2" Dia and hole center is 2 3/8" from end. These are for an old 5' rotary cutter made by Poplarville Mfg. All the local shops are not familiar with these and only...