11 acres previous cow pasture smoothing bumps

[oosik]

I have a small - one acre - meadow very near the house. Two years ago I began mowing it and now it's like a lawn. It has a few lumps/bumps but it easier to just handle this than attempt to make corrections.

A very common problem around here. Every time I break ground - for whatever reason - I get a new crop of Canadian Thistles on the broken ground. They can be a real BUGGER to fight. Can take up to 3 to 4 years to eliminate. It's an item to consider.

 

[jaxs]

Must be wet/soft/lowland? Usually a tractor won’t do that.

My thoughts exactly. Is it pastureland or waterfowl habitat? I've never once seen anyone plow land when tractor tires were sinking. If a tractor makes ruts a dozer will sink out of sight.

 

[5030]

- I get a new crop of Canadian Thistles on the broken ground.

2-4-D Buteyak kills them and won't harm the grass. Not cheao however. I use it on my hay fields to kill off broadleaf and thistle.

 

[Rockbadchild]

A very common problem around here. Every time I break ground - for whatever reason - I get a new crop of Canadian Thistles on the broken ground. They can be a real BUGGER to fight. Can take up to 3 to 4 years to eliminate. It's an item to consider.

not much here but this is what I know about the Canadian Thistles, its seeds can ''survive'' stay active in the ground for 200 years... the way to minimize them is to not disturbed the ground when wet, and keep your soil fertile since it grows best in soil with low fertility. Improving your soil’s fertility will weaken the Canada thistle.

 

[ning]

not much here but this is what I know about the Canadian Thistles, its seeds can ''survive'' stay active in the ground for 200 years... the way to minimize them is to not disturbed the ground when wet, and keep your soil fertile since it grows best in soil with low fertility. Improving your soil’s fertility will weaken the Canada thistle.

They're super easy to pull I've found, but I wish I didn't know this to be true. I think we got a bunch with some hay a number of years back...

 

[Rockbadchild]

They're super easy to pull I've found, but I wish I didn't know this to be true. I think we got a bunch with some hay a number of years back...

some of them can be especially on worked ground ... I found contradicting information at this regard some source say pull them out, some say do not since you may break the roots and multiple ones will grow back instead they recommend to repeatedly cut them as low as possible.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I rely on irrigation from ditches, so ruts must be eliminated. After discing and or ripping I use a converted box blade to smooth the ground out.

If there's more dirt to be moved, or it needs to be really level, a converted 3-way blade does a great job.

Either way, with my limited grading skills those training wheels in the back really help.

 

[ning]

I rely on irrigation from ditches, so ruts must be eliminated. After discing and or ripping I use a converted box blade to smooth the ground out.

If there's more dirt to be moved, or it needs to be really level, a converted 3-way blade does a great job.View attachment 802454

Either way, with my limited grading skills those training wheels in the back really help.View attachment 802455

That's beautiful land you've got, quite the view as well!

 

[Too many Kubotas]

That's beautiful land you've got, quite the view as well!

Thank you!

It was neglected land for a long time, parts of it severely over grazed, and the prairie dogs had really done a number on it.

After several years it's largely beaten back into shape, but there are still areas where I can't quite herd the water to where it should go.

Making those two towables have really helped. A road grader would've been great to have, but they're proud of those. Plus I'd have to learn to operate it. Which would be fun, but still.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

My place is the same size. I've been taking the "work on the worst spots when I have time" approach. I kind of do what Hay Dude said. But with my tiller, loader, and box blade. If it's just a rut, most of the time a couple passes with the tiller is enough. Till deep enough to get all the way to the deepest part of the rut and it seems to settle in a lot smoother than it was. If it's rolling I'll till a pretty good size area and move the higher spots to the lower spots. It's gotta be pretty dry or you just rut it back up while you are smoothing it, and you have a bald spot there until the grass comes back in. I usually have several of those around the property, and on my head....

I just kind of keep track of where I bounce the most on the mower and hit that area the next time I feel froggy enough to work on it.