1538 Cold Start Issues

   / 1538 Cold Start Issues #1  

LowellBen

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2019
Messages
38
Tractor
2015 Mahindra 1538HST
I've had this 1538 HST for several years. When temps get below +15F this thing is hard to start. Last winter I looked into things a bit. Found out the 1538 has an intake heater, not glow plugs. Verified that the intake heater does work. I was kind of surprised that glow plugs were not used. My GMC LBZ starts pretty easily even below zero - I like glow plugs. Anyway back to the 1538.

I looked at the manual, nothing called out for any change in starting procedure in cold weather. Just turn the key to the on position, wait for the heater light to go out and move the key to the start position. And that works fine until temps get below +15. I've got a big CCA AGM battery up front. Engine turns over just fine. At least a couple cylinders will start firing, but the engine will not come up to high idle. It just kind of chugs for a bit, belching black smoke, slowly winds down and then stops. I cycle the intake heater again, go to start and it may start running on all cylinders, go up to high idle and then idle down as the heater light goes off - or it may just roll back and die. After two tries, I usually just quit so as not to tax the starter. The clutch is depressed the whole time.

Last winter I told myself I needed to get a block heater. Didn't get one, but have one on order now that I will install when temps warm up a bit.

Are these things just cold blooded or do I need a different technique?

Thanks,
Lowell
 
   / 1538 Cold Start Issues #2  
My 2538 sits outdoors under a open carport type roof... Use your same start procedure. I use a Trickle Charger set on 2 amp... and Block heater. Works finest kind until single # temps... don't want to on a no cab tractor in those temps anyways!
 
   / 1538 Cold Start Issues #3  
I see no reason why an intake heater couldn't be cycled several times like glow plugs can be. Key on until light goes off, turn key off, and cycle again, then start the engine.
 
   / 1538 Cold Start Issues
  • Thread Starter
#4  
My 2538 sits outdoors under a open carport type roof... Use your same start procedure. I use a Trickle Charger set on 2 amp... and Block heater. Works finest kind until single # temps... don't want to on a no cab tractor in those temps anyways!
I hear ya. I have a battery tender on it.

Kinda wish I would have gotten one with a cab. But having a cab would have caused issues with how I've used the tractor in the past. Best I can do is long johns, insulated coveralls, electric gloves and socks. Does get damn cold in the seat.
 
   / 1538 Cold Start Issues
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I see no reason why an intake heater couldn't be cycled several times like glow plugs can be. Key on until light goes off, turn key off, and cycle again, then start the engine.
Yes, I've tried that a couple times. Sometimes still won't start. I think the intake heater can't stay ahead of the cold air being sucked in until the combustion chambers warm up enough. Block heater will probably get the job done. Will have to wait for warmer weather to install it. Hope I can do the install without dropping much coolant. I've got a tankless boiler for the house. Has had the low water pressure sensor fail 3 times now. Got pretty good at installing a new sensor with little water loss. Got fingers crossed that I will have equal luck installing the heater in the tractor.
 
   / 1538 Cold Start Issues #6  
If you have room, I've had better luck with a recirculating heater(goes inline with a heater hose. If no cab you could just loop it back to the block). I've replaced too many of the standard block heaters with burnt off electrodes. Plus, you tend to lose less coolant splicing one into a heater hose. If you're quick.
 
   / 1538 Cold Start Issues #7  
Catch can for coolant and reuse?
 
   / 1538 Cold Start Issues
  • Thread Starter
#8  
If you have room, I've had better luck with a recirculating heater(goes inline with a heater hose. If no cab you could just loop it back to the block). I've replaced too many of the standard block heaters with burnt off electrodes. Plus, you tend to lose less coolant splicing one into a heater hose. If you're quick.
Your 2555 may not have the same lower hose setup as the 1500 series tractors. The lower hose on the 1500 series tractors has an inline fitting. I'm guessing it is primarily there for the cab tractors (heater supply or return), but is there for the non cab tractors also. There is a 3/4" NPT port in that fitting for installing a block heater. You are probably correct about the burnt off electrodes, but I'm gonna take the easy route first. There are a bunch of GE360 type heaters out on the market. I whittled things down to the Zerostart brand. Several other brands had poor reviews - either dead right out of the box, infant mortality or failing just after the warranty ended. The Zerostart has a 90 deg electrical connection and comes with sealant already on the pipe threads. We shall see how this works out.
 
   / 1538 Cold Start Issues #9  
Your 2555 may not have the same lower hose setup as the 1500 series tractors. The lower hose on the 1500 series tractors has an inline fitting. I'm guessing it is primarily there for the cab tractors (heater supply or return), but is there for the non cab tractors also. There is a 3/4" NPT port in that fitting for installing a block heater. You are probably correct about the burnt off electrodes, but I'm gonna take the easy route first. There are a bunch of GE360 type heaters out on the market. I whittled things down to the Zerostart brand. Several other brands had poor reviews - either dead right out of the box, infant mortality or failing just after the warranty ended. The Zerostart has a 90 deg electrical connection and comes with sealant already on the pipe threads. We shall see how this works out.
I hope it works well for you.
 

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