1920 brake question

   / 1920 brake question #1  

scesnick

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2004
Messages
1,334
Location
Garrett County Md. ( Western Md.)
Tractor
Kubota MX5100
Iam helping out my neighbor who is an older lady and she called me today to adjust her tractor brakes. they did not work AT ALL. ( 1920 Ford ) the right brake adjusted fine and now works well but after trying to adjust the left brake it still does not work. The pedal now feels like it has some brake pedal to it but when the tractor is moving it just doesn't work but still feels like it has some pedalbut no stopping power. I am guessing the left brake was dragging and is now wore out. Any thoughts?

Also, anyone know of a good online place for affordable Ford brakes? I woul dlike to get this fixed for her so she has two good brakes.
 
   / 1920 brake question #2  
Not sure if the 1920 has brakes like my 1710, dry and exterior to the case.

This is going to seem hoky , but bear with me. I used to be manager of vehicle testing for the world's largest friction material supplier (you might know of Abex / Federal-Mogul out of Winchester, VA) so I've got a clue despite what I'm going to say.

First, to access the brakes you have to remove the external cover exposing the drum and shoes. At least on the 1710 the original brake materials were asbestos. So to work on them properly you would need a wet retention system or HEPA vac and containment to not exposure yourself to asbestos fibers. Due to the work I did, it was something I had access to.

I have found the original shoes and linings to separate over x number of years. Even when I've bought the Ford / New Holland replacements that are very expensive they will separate again over time. And I never found an aftermarket company that serviced the parts. You may find a local brake rebuilder, the few that are left, who may be able to reline the shoes with another product.

But here is what I ended up doing. The OE lining tends to debond off the shoes cleanly. I was able to remove the remaining adhesive easily off the shoe platforms. I then picked up non-asbestos flexible lining from McMaster.com used JB Weld to adhesive the lining to the shoes. I Used large worm clamps to apply circumferential pressure to clamp the lining to the shoes. The one problem that does exist after doing this is that the lining is not ground to the radius of the drum. I used to have an Ammco shoe grinder to deal with this, but my facility was closed and moved, so that's not an option. Instead, I just ground a little off the leading and trailing ends of the shoes and put it together. Initially the braking was not that good, but within a few hours of operation the high areas of the shoes wore off and braking ability has stabilized. You do have to adjust the brakes a few times during this period of high wear. I resisted just putting on the brakes and generating a lot of wear all at once as I did not want to overheat the brake shoes and debond the new lining.

This method has worked now for a couple of years and a few hundred hours. Plus in the future I do not have to worry about dealing with asbestosis fibers ever again.
 
   / 1920 brake question #3  
;) what you said don't seem so strange.. I've used masenite to make clutch material before... ( works too! )

soundguy
 

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