1951 8n rear rim change

   / 1951 8n rear rim change #1  

wolc123

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This 8n now has just over 2000 hours on it. It was my first tractor purchase. I bought it from the widow of the original owner, when it had 1200 hours on it. It has always been stored inside and still wears it's original paint. I believe that the rear tires and rims were original.

Its first home was directly across the street from the house where I grew up. I remember my dad borrowing it a few times to plow our little garden when I was a kid. He used grandpa's John Deere model M, of about the same era, to disk and cultivate.

Grandpa's old M was hammered from years of hard farm use , while the 8n was still in near showroom condition, having only worked on our elderly neighbors small garden.

When he passed away in the late 1980's I bought it for $ 1200, and have used it for a little bit of spring plowing ever since. Last year I noted that the right rear rim was badly corroded around the stem. I lowered the pressure to about 10 psi and got another year out of it.

It finally failed and leaked down, just after I finished my spring plowing this year. I had to use my modern John Deere, 4wd, diesel tractor to finish planting corn, a task I much prefer the old Ford for. It dont have that bulky loader frame and joystick blocking access to the right side, and the platform is much lower and easier to mount and dismount when checking fertilizer and seed in the planter.

I also prefer the old Ford for plowing, because it has hydraulic draft control which makes it easier to maintain uniform plow depth.

Changing the old rim was not that difficult, although I did have a few tough challenges to overcome. I needed a long pipe on the handle of a 3/4" breaker bar for leverage to break loose the (6) 5/8" fine thread carriage bolts that held the center section on the rim. I was able to salvage and reuse only (2) of those. I replaced the others with standard coarse thread nuts and bolts of the same length.

My little floor jack didn't have enough power to break the bread with a plain rectangular wood block and chain. Trimming that block with a chainsaw, to match the rim curve, allowed me to put the little jack force right where it was needed to get the job done.

One final challenge was getting the old tire off the back side of the old rim. I finally succeeded by sticking a long crowbar all the way across, and beating it off with the flat side of a splitting maul.

I did not save the liquid calcium chloride ballast because that is what caused my corrosion issues and j didnt want to hurt the tractors value to whoever gets it next by putting it back in. I will also get rid of that in the other side when I get around to changing that one.

I am guessing that it wont work as well for plowing without the ballast in the tires. I guess will find out about that next spring.

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   / 1951 8n rear rim change
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Here are some photos of the custom wood block that I trimmed (I will save that for when I need to do the other side), and of the finished job. The other one is the last time I had it on my corn planter.
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   / 1951 8n rear rim change
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Look at the size of the hole in the old rim. I cant believe that I made it thru my spring plowing this year with it like that. They must have used some strong natural rubber on the inner tubes back in the early 50's. A side benefit is that now my kids have a new, larger camp fire pit that they have been asking for.
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   / 1951 8n rear rim change #4  
I got a rim from some outfit that makes them in Northern Iowa. "Titan" I think. They shipped it to me. I had the calcium too and boy oh boy was it nasty. Bleached the concrete on contact. I just have a 2nd helping all winter to make of for the loss of ballast.
 
   / 1951 8n rear rim change
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I finished up my spring plowing today, with just one loaded rim (the left - sod side). It worked almost as good on the 2 bottom plow as it always did with two loaded rear rims. The soil moisture content was just about perfect today, which probably helped out a bit.
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   / 1951 8n rear rim change #6  
I know we all hate what the calcium can do to a rim, but on the 4 tractors we've had for 50+ years, we've only lost 3 rims to it. The benefit due to the weight far outweighs the loss of a rim occasionally. I'd love to use something like rimguard, but it isn't as readily available.
 
   / 1951 8n rear rim change #7  
As you garage store your tractor, why not load the rear tire with plain water?

Most tractors in Florida ballast with water.
 
   / 1951 8n rear rim change #8  
RV anti-freeze is another option that is readily available.
 
   / 1951 8n rear rim change
  • Thread Starter
#9  
As you garage store your tractor, why not load the rear tire with plain water?

Most tractors in Florida ballast with water.
I don’t heat the pole barn where I store it and we are way up north, where it gets below zero quite often over the winter.

I have some big square iron weights and my plan now is to drill a couple of them to fit a wheel adapter I have and add to that side with some threaded rod and nuts/washers. They are about 125 pounds each and the adapter probably weighs 25 pounds. 275 extra pounds on that side should be pretty close to the calcium in the other side. There is no signs of rot yet on the original rim on the other side.

Only trouble is, those weights will stick out a ways on the new rim side so I need to be careful driving thru the barn doors. I have two of those wheel adapters, so after I replace the other original rim (if I ever need to), I will move one of the iron weights to the other side.

The tractor definitely worked better on the cultimulcher with two loaded rims, but it worked fine on the two row corn planter with just one yesterday. I was thankful to get all of my fieldcorn and 3/4 of my sweetcorn in before the rain we got last night.
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An advantage of the iron weights, is that I can take them off easily when not needed. I often use that tractor in the woods and on the lawn where the extra weight on the back does more harm than good.
 
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