2001 Tahoe AC compressor pump OUT... tips on replacement?

[Dadnatron]

I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe with just over 200K miles on it. Its had some intermittent work, but biggest is we just overhauled the transmission. It has been running very well, and we wanted to just keep it as a spare/farm type vehicle. My wife loves it and when we looked at getting a new one as a replacement, they have completely screwed up the seats as they fold. The Tahoe used to be a large UTILITY vehicle with everything in back folding flat and closed. EXCELLENT design. Now, it is essentially useless and appears to merely be made as a people mover.

Anyway...

Given the above, we want to keep it around as much as possible.

So, about a month ago, the AC goes out and the AC pump is making a horrible racket. You can tell it is bad. I took it in to get an estimate on replacement, and they proceeded to tell me they recommended changing out the entire system, dryer, condensor, and pump because its likely that 'pieces' of the compressor fan have gone throughout the system and ruined it all. The estimate was around $2800 and it just really isn't worth that to me. HOWEVER, I'm moderately mechanical and after checking around, I can get a new/rebuilt pump for $160 or so. So I thought I would give it a try, and have watched a couple YouTube videos which make me believe it is within my ability.

My question really is... should I go ahead and change out the dryer and condenser as well? I KNOW the main problem is the compressor as there is a racket when turning on the AC which stops when turning it off. I do know that there is a small leak in the charging tube/orifice as I can see leak detector bubble out a bit when I initially tried to charge it. After charging it was when the compressor began kicking on with the horrible racket.

Are there any tips you would recommend? This is the video I watched... It is for a 2000 1500 truck, but I believe they have the same setup.

 

[AchingBack]

If AC components aren't replaced, the contaminants from the failed compressor are going to ruin the new compressor, and you will be back to square one. Do it right, or don't do it.

 

[Wakey]

If I made a list of all the things I fixed with the help of YouTube... :laughing:

One week ago it was my Samsung front load washer, 21 days or so outside of the 5 year extended warranty.

I've got the '09 Tahoe with 235K, when it breaks, I will fix it one way or the other. LOVE this truck.

This forum has been an excellent source of information. This thread is the latest project I've done https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/05nalis-how-to-ipod-aux-hookup-for-03-xm-equipped-trucks.39277/

 

[Stimw]

They didn't tell you to replace the evaporator because it is REALLY REALLY REALLY hard to replace!
The other parts, not so much.
Compressor fan pieces. ????
Per several GM manuals that I have- The only reason to replace a receiver/dryer is if it is damaged in a collision!
Yours should be an Orifice/Tube system, nothing will make it past the orifice.
Worst case it could stop up.
If you find any debris you do need to blow out the system and flush as best as you can.
The biggie is having a vacuum pump for repairing.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

If the system has open to atmosphere for more that a few hours or leaked refrigerant, you need to replace the receiver/dryer. If you cannot borrow, go to HF and get the set up from them. Gauges, leak detector, vacuum pump, thermometers, refrigerant, and the special tools for removing the hoses. Do not try to do it w/o these items. If the compressor does not have an oil charge you need that also. If mine I would get the compressor, receiver, oil and refrigerant from NAPA and they will assist you in all these things. Refrigerant and oil charge are critical. Being a former AC tech I would not trust a u tube presentation as gospel or fully accurate. Also do not trust a compressor from an unreliable source.

Ron

 

[chim]

The correct answer according to a couple refrigeration techs at work is to replace the dryer, pump it down, etc.

However, back in 1992 someone rearended the 1990 Silverado 4x4 company truck I was driving. I then got another, nearly twin truck but without A/C. One Saturday morning I took my tools to where the wrecked truck was stored and stripped the A/C, better radio and a few other things off the truck. and hauled the booty home. In a matter of a few hours I had the replacement truck blowing cold. Control was via a switch on the dash that ran through the low pressure cutoff switch on the A/C. Never pumped it down, charged it with cans and it ran fine for as long as I had it (the truck was replaced in 2000 with a Chevy 4x4 w/ factory air).

 

[LittleBill21]

The correct answer according to a couple refrigeration techs at work is to replace the dryer, pump it down, etc.

However, back in 1992 someone rearended the 1990 Silverado 4x4 company truck I was driving. I then got another, nearly twin truck but without A/C. One Saturday morning I took my tools to where the wrecked truck was stored and stripped the A/C, better radio and a few other things off the truck. and hauled the booty home. In a matter of a few hours I had the replacement truck blowing cold. Control was via a switch on the dash that ran through the low pressure cutoff switch on the A/C. Never pumped it down, charged it with cans and it ran fine for as long as I had it (the truck was replaced in 2000 with a Chevy 4x4 w/ factory air).

i have to agree with this. i had a 93 subaru that blew the condenser, not knowing better i simply replaced it 5 days later and the ac system open for that entire time, and hit it with a couple cans, blew cold for 5 years till i totaled it.

for a junker, it doesn't hurt to try

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Sometimes you get lucky when everything falls right; however wait till ole man Murphy weighs in! Doing things by protocol helps assure Murph stays on his side of the street. But alas I tend to make ways into stuff I know little about theory wise; sometimes works sometimes doesn't.

Ron

 

[Stimw]

As I have stated, I have 2 GM Factory Manuals, a 1983 Light Truck and a 1989 Light Truck (set of 3).
Both manuals state "The only reason to replace Receiver/Dryer is if it becomes damaged in a collision".
There is nothing in the receiver/dryer to go bad, evacuating properly will remove moisture.
All these (So called) Tech's are for profit parts changers selling you something you don't need.
The reason you need to evacuate the system is to remove air which contains moisture.
There is a process where you pull a vacuum, add freon from the other port and pull vacuum again to rapidly purge the system.
Otherwise it can take up to 30 minutes for acceptable vacuum readings.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

As I have stated, I have 2 GM Factory Manuals, a 1983 Light Truck and a 1989 Light Truck (set of 3).
Both manuals state "The only reason to replace Receiver/Dryer is if it becomes damaged in a collision".
There is nothing in the receiver/dryer to go bad, evacuating properly will remove moisture.
All these (So called) Tech's are for profit parts changers selling you something you don't need.
The reason you need to evacuate the system is to remove air which contains moisture.
There is a process where you pull a vacuum, add freon from the other port and pull vacuum again to rapidly purge the system.
Otherwise it can take up to 30 minutes for acceptable vacuum readings.

We "Parts Changers" are professionals that have to stand behind our work. We eat it when our repair fails. It is not selling something un-needed but providing the customer with assurance of a proper and lasting repair and protecting our customer base by not having recalls. The true trade definition of parts changers is "those who cannot diagnose and just keep changing parts till they get lucky". Techs who can diagnose, spend a lot of their own time and money steeping themselves in refrigeration and air flow theory and dynamics. Such is laden with physics, chemistry, heat theory, and mathematics. We used to say, "you are not a professional until after at least 5 years practicing the art beyond basic training". the apprenticeship for Union AC&R technicians is 5 years.

A system open to atmosphere or operating in a vacuum due to low refrigerant can allow a lot of moisture absorbing by the drier. You have no way to detect or measure the amount. Also, the dryer/receiver collects any metal or other particles resulting from compressor failure. Purging with nitrogen or refrigerant does not always move those particles as the velocity is pretty low. If a dryer gets contaminated with moisture it takes more than an hour on the vacuum pump to make it as dry as new. Purging with refrigerant helps some but the contact time is short and is a violation of the refrigerant handling law. Do you want to pay for $125/hr labor or a minor part?

This dialog is not to debunk DIY stabs at this subject but to defend our trade and honor. I DIY a lot of trade stuff, not trained in, and get by using a lot of ingenuity and common mechanical sense. I have failures too.

Ron