3 pt. chisel plow/cultimulcher

[astep]

i would like learn how to weld by creating a 3 pt. implement to use for turning my garden over for planting. i have been following several posts on this website and have joined to have some of my questions answered. although, i'm only 16, i work after-school on a dairy farm and am regularly around tractors, therefore i have a somewhat decent knowledge of tillage equip. using a 12' row of c tines cut in half from my boss's old cultimulcher, i would like to create a 3pt. tool to prep our garden. this implement will be used on my dad's JD 4310 on our 2.5 acres. to make it slightly easier, i could start off with a drawbar, yet was unsure if welding it to square stock frame would be a weak bond- two 6' rows of 5 c tines might be a tough pull for the 4310. the pic attached better explains what I would like to do. would it be better to incorporate the two bottom pins into the square stock frame? thanks for any criticism
astep

 

[MadReferee]

I have built over a dozen 3pt hitches in the last year alone. I see no reason why your design will not work. That is as long as your welds are done with good penetration. Running a bead is usually just not good enough, you got to get penetration and might have to use multiple passes. Welding onto the drawbar will be ok as long as you get the penetration and prep the surface (no paint) beforehand.

For this project I would suggest nothing less than 1/4" thick steel tubing, with the 2 pieces that will hold the top link pin to be no less than 3/8" thick plate. You side supports are not critical and could be made out of just about anything. I would use c-channel (also referred to as bar channel) and just run a straight diagonal piece between the top link tower and the tubing for the tines. The top link tower shjould be no less than 2" square tubing 1/4" thick.

Looks like a good project for you. Just be careful with your welds. Good luck and have fun.

 

[Slamfire]

Instead of welding things to a drawbar, weld tabs to the implement and bolt it to the drawbar.

 

[kensfarm]

I just wanted to say.. Welcome you to TBN!!!

What are you planting?

 

[JerryG]

The only problem that I see is that when using a draw bar for a ground engaging equipment, you may have a problem changing the drawbar when the ends bend. If you use bolt on lift pins, you can then easily change them when a pin is bent. If it was only used for a sprayer or something light duty there wouldn't be a problem using the drawbar.

 

[astep]

thanks for the welcome.
i'll be planting a fair amount of potatoes, corn, tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. right now, my garden is pretty small (10' x 50') i plan on at least tripling it.

i'll probably go ahead with using the drawbar. would i be producing conditions that might lead to bending the pins on the drawbar? would the quick-tach adapters for the pins increase the force they could handle?

saturday after work i should have some pictures of the c tines i plan to use.

astep

 

[Kaliburz]

I see where you are comming from, using a 3pt draw bar as a starting point. I built something "close", but it was for a Cat II pin holes instead of Cat 1. It was an adapter plate bolted on to a draw bar to put a hitch reciver in (you see them being sold). Any how, I know mine will hold up since I moved a single wide mobile home with it using a 1960's JD 3020 row crop tractor. I'll have to upload a pic of the set up later.....

 

[Kaliburz]

Here's an image of some suggestions to you idea.

Instead of welding the tube to the draw bar, weld some flat w/ holes so that you can bolt the draw bar on. The center link can be welded to the flat also and your side gusset supports can be bolted/welded to the side tube. Also, I suggest a support from the back to the front, as show on the image I uploaded. You can choose one single suppor inline w/ the center link or put a V shape. It does two things, when you put downward pressure on the center link, it pushes the back down (instead of stressing your center link post welds). Plus, it holds up the back end when you transport...depending on the strength of the main frame.

I hope the 'edits' are clear enough. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif You can easily use grade five bolts to secure the 3pt draw bar to the frame.... if you are worried about breaking things off, it's a way to replace it.

Welds.... I suggest using 6011. It has deep penetrating arc. It's not pretty, but it holds. If you get really good, you can make a 6011 look like 6013 /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif. Remember to bevel edges to give more area for the weld to penetrate and choose the correct sized rod.

Well, have fun. (And there is no such thing as OVER building..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif)

 

[bobodu]

I wouldn't weld to the drawbar either...Why make a good bar into a single use item? Today,I made a pipe puller to pull behind an Oliver 1850.Just welded some Cat. 3 lower link pins to the inside corner of some 4" X 3/8" angle I had laying around.Burned them down with 6011 and a top coat of 7014 to hide the uglies.Got dark before I thought of taking pictures...but I do have one of the start...

 

[astep]

thanks for the input
i'll probably just bolt the frame to the drawbar. i don't have any pics right now of the c tines because my boss threw them in the woods until he thinks i'm actually going to start welding
i've begun to cut the frame out and will post some pics soon
astep