I have an L2800, had it about a year and though much lighter than I was used to in the past, love it and it does seem to do what I need. I have noticed though that with the 3pt raised all the way it robs HP and also lowers the cycle time of the front loader. backing it off slightly from fully raised increases both drive HP and also dramatically lowers cycle time using the FEL. Anybody else found this to occur?
3 pt & HP
- Thread starter bpattie
- Start date
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gwdixon
Elite Member
The hydraulic pump maxes out at full lift and robs HP. The pump only can pump so much so the FEL gets only a share.
The power steering pump is usually separate so will not seem to be affected.
You should hear the pump straining at full lift. That is the clue to back it off.
The power steering pump is usually separate so will not seem to be affected.
You should hear the pump straining at full lift. That is the clue to back it off.
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powerstroke444e
Veteran Member
You need to adjust the feed back linkage to keep that from happening. If you dont your cause extra wear and tear on your hydraulic pump.
8x56mn
Bronze Member
My Bota has an adjustable stop located in the handle slot
in front and back of the handle to prevent that from happening. If you don't have one just put a bolt with a wing nut through the slot and turn the nut tight. You will find that with the handle just shy of all the way prevents this from happening without giving up lift.
in front and back of the handle to prevent that from happening. If you don't have one just put a bolt with a wing nut through the slot and turn the nut tight. You will find that with the handle just shy of all the way prevents this from happening without giving up lift.thanks for the replies. mine also has the stops at top and bottom. The bottom is obvious that it is adjustable. I will take look at the top again, but at quick glance it seemed to be set and not adjustable, at least not in the same manner as the bottom.
Chilly807
Elite Member
I'm with him ^^^ once the lever is all the way up, there should be no further strain on the 3ph. In other words, the lift arms and feedback linkage will have moved the hydraulic valve to a "no load" or neutral position. If you're still pressurizing the lift piston, there's a problem with the adjustment or function of the feedback system.
Mine has done this once, while trying to lift a huge chunk of hardwood log that was jammed up. It was obvious that the 3ph was still trying to raise the log, from the engine sound and the sound of the hydraulics. Once the log came free, the 3ph lifted the rest of the way and things went back to normal.
I'd get it checked out, you may damage the hydraulic system otherwise.
Chilly
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Yankee Clipper
Gold Member
bpattie,
Powerstoke is exactly correct - you need to lengthen the feedback rod so the hitch goes to neutral.
To adjust it correctly, grab one of the two lower links and raise it fully until the rockshaft hits it's stop under the cover. Mark a chalk or magic marker mark on the arm at the top cover - a line to show max hitch height.
Now get on the tractor and start it - pull the hitch position control handle all the way back in the quadrant. With the handle all the way back, the marks should not line up but have a small gap. You can verify this by grabbing the now raised lower link and you should be able to feel some vertical movement before it hits the stop inside.
if not, lengthen the external follow up rod from the rockshaft arm to the linkage that goes under the cover to the control valve. Extending makes the hitch go lower - remember you need a small gap - shortening the linkage makes the hitch go higher.
The reason the loader power is less at full height is the pump is sitting on relief pressure and the fluid will not be as pressurized to do useful work as it is when the hitch is on neutral.
Good luck!
YC
Powerstoke is exactly correct - you need to lengthen the feedback rod so the hitch goes to neutral.
To adjust it correctly, grab one of the two lower links and raise it fully until the rockshaft hits it's stop under the cover. Mark a chalk or magic marker mark on the arm at the top cover - a line to show max hitch height.
Now get on the tractor and start it - pull the hitch position control handle all the way back in the quadrant. With the handle all the way back, the marks should not line up but have a small gap. You can verify this by grabbing the now raised lower link and you should be able to feel some vertical movement before it hits the stop inside.
if not, lengthen the external follow up rod from the rockshaft arm to the linkage that goes under the cover to the control valve. Extending makes the hitch go lower - remember you need a small gap - shortening the linkage makes the hitch go higher.
The reason the loader power is less at full height is the pump is sitting on relief pressure and the fluid will not be as pressurized to do useful work as it is when the hitch is on neutral.
Good luck!
YC
it is kind of nasty outside today, got some spring snow last night and this morning, but did take a pretty good look. Yankee, I am not sure what the "External follow up rod" is? I tried finding buy googling, and looked in manual. The only Thing that I see that are adjustable are the top link, the lift rod (looks like mini top link) and the turn buckles that control the sideways movement. I see no external stops or switches or linkages that would lead inside.
Yankee Clipper
Gold Member
bpattie,
You are correct - #160 is the follow up rod and you will loosen the two #180 nuts to shorten or lengthen.
Not rocket science but close to it if you are not familiar with what is going on.
Good luck!
You are correct - #160 is the follow up rod and you will loosen the two #180 nuts to shorten or lengthen.
Not rocket science but close to it if you are not familiar with what is going on.
Good luck!