300 CX loader balast

   / 300 CX loader balast #1  


Veteran Member
Feb 21, 2005
Central WI
I'm sure it's overkill, but I wanted to share what the Deere manual recommends for ballast on the 300 cx used on the 4000-10 and 3000-20 tractors:

Filled rear tires AND 3 wheel weights per rear wheel AND 1100# of 3 point weight if memory serves...
   / 300 CX loader balast #2  

Wow! That's a lot of ballast. I fall pretty short of their goal with my ballasting. I only run filled rear tires and a box blade currently. There have been two instances though where I wished for more ballast with my 300cx loader. When grading an area for a storage building, I lifted the rear of my tractor with the loader hooked on two independent embedded stumps. One of the thoughts I mentioned about the 3720 v. the 4310 is the fact with more power, one could provide more ballast but not comprimise mid range performance. When the 3720 comes in that I am trying, if I get it (and I suspect I will) I may even add some weights to the wheels plus the Rimguard to even further enhance loader performance and increase hill stability and drawbar pull. JD does, though, seem to be very aggressive with their ballasting recommendations.

John M.
   / 300 CX loader balast #3  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 1100# of 3 point weight if memory serves... )</font>

Jeez, I was planning on using my mother-in-law. Looks like only need half her weight /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
   / 300 CX loader balast
  • Thread Starter
Yup, I read it right. "The amount of ballast listed in the chart is the minimum required for normal loader operation. For some operations, additional ballast may be required to maximize stability."

"Fluid Filled rear tires AND 1100# of 3point weight, AND thre rear wheel weights per wheel"

They go on to list the balast box calculated weight filled with sand with and w/o extension. Looks like the Imatch moves a 824# concrete filled box rating up to 1137# /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

When I used the Dealer's rental, there was some question as to if I really needed a ballast box/bracket. They obliged by building a 3 point drawbar with the nose casting off of a large 100HP tractor and 6-100# suitcase weights. In the snow/woods this was not enough. Also, by the end of the day, the top link was MUCH close to the lift pins on the hitch as the weights twisted the heck out of teh old hitch due to bouncing...
   / 300 CX loader balast #5  
If the FEL has the lifting capacity, then the rear end needs to be counter balanced to offset that capacity, plus including the chance of going downhill and at an angle to that slope.
I don't get that close to the recommended ballast but at times have to back off on what I am lifting to keep the rear end down.
Also, it shows or explains what the tractor was designed for, and that is good information.
   / 300 CX loader balast
  • Thread Starter
After operating the machine for some time now, I now see how important ballast is. I've had it teetering pretty good when the 3 point arms are empty...
   / 300 CX loader balast #7  
KennedyDiesel . . . On some of the other tractor threads there is a lot of talk about the advantage to starting out with a HEAVY tractor, but my experience is that no tractor is heavy enough to handle the strength of the modern loaders because a heavy tractor has much of its weight in front of the rear wheels and much of that is in the heavy castings of the engine & bell housing. I have a New Holland & a Kubota (smaller than your JD) and my manuals also state fluid + wheel weights + ballast box. No way that you can make up for proper balance by just buying a heavy tractor when the reality is the weight needs to be as far to the rear as you can possibly get it!

As you have already found out, proper ballast has more to do with BALANCE as it does with total weight.

txhawg wrote: <font color="green"> Jeez, I was planning on using my mother-in-law. Looks like only need half her weight </font>

hawg . . . couple options I see. First, if you have the 3pt capacity to lift her, you might want to just strap her in the old La-Z-Boy and use the whole thing as ballast. Another option is (and I'm assuming she's old as the hills here) you could just wait for her to fall and break a hip, then rather than fixing the hip, just have the doctors snip off her leg, wrap that up in some plastic, and use that as your ballast /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Then again, you are probably already feeding the MIL so you might just want to get your money's worth and use the first option /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif