3038e Using Cruise Control Harness Connector for Diverter 12v Power? !! Does not work !!

[nikdfish]

I have a 2010 3038e and am getting ready to install a diverter to add a 3rd scv to the rear (already have JD 4th & 5th) and was looking at how to source switched 12v for the solenoid.

While looking at the fuse box & considering using an "add a circuit" fuse plug-in I found that power was available at the unused F6 position, on the diagram as "10A cruise control (optional) ". I found install instructions that indicated the cruise control harness was powered via a main harness connector located under the right side cup-holder/switch location.

After removing the cup-holder I found the referenced connector. Once a fuse was inserted, it does indeed supply 12v when the ignition switch is "on" & not when "off". I have the proper weather proof connector to fit it (same as I used on my work lights).

Can anyone think of a reason not to use this to provide power for the diverter solenoid?

Side notes:

• wire color on the connector is white-12v red-ground
• testing continuity of the red to ground using a beeper found continuity is constant when switch is on, pulsed when switch is off (i.e. beep, beep, beep, beep)
• The older 3038e fuse box is not enclosed. I had to remove grass, dust and dirt clumps that had collect there over the years. I also found a fuel guage lying in there that I thought I had lost in the field after opening the hood years ago.
• The 10mm cap head screws securing the cup-holder attach to pressed inserts. One of mine the screw corroded & spun the insert, requiring it to be pulled free. We'll see if super glue retains it.

 

[LittleBill21]

no issue especially if your not planning to use cruise and there was no fuse before, thus there was nothing you were aware of being powered by the circuit

 

[Williy]

No problem as long as you don't excede the 10A

willy
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[Tinhack]

You should be fine. The solenoid valve coil draws about 30 watts or 2.5 amps when energized at 12 volts DC. Also, they are typically rated continuous.

• The 10mm cap head screws securing the cup-holder attach to pressed inserts. One of mine the screw corroded & spun the insert, requiring it to be pulled free. We'll see if super glue retains it.

You can get new inserts if you didn't bugger-up the hole too bad. A hammer and dolly is all you need to dress the hole back to size. A fitting washer on the back side works too. The tool is easy to use and most come with a selection of inserts.

 

[nikdfish]

For the record, this does not work. Power is present only when the ignition is on, the engine is not running and the gear shift is in neutral. Change any of those elements & power drops.

I ended up using an "add-a-circuit" placed in the F5 slot ("all switched power"). That worked as needed & provides 12v as long as the ignition is on.