It's time to hook up some extra lighting to my canopy. I know there is a rear electrical connection for a rear light. It gets power from the headlight switch. Wondering if this cicuit can handle 2 additional 55 watt halogen lights. At the fuse holder in the engine compartment there is a 10 amp fuse dedicated to the headights. Some questions? Why does the rear connector have four wires? The last fuse location on the bottom says it is for the PTO switch, work light and horn. I don't have any of these on my tractor. Wondering where the wiring for any of these extras might be to tap into?
3215 rear light connection
- Thread starter MrChris
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BIG DOOLEY
Platinum Member
voltage x amperage = watts
12 vdc x 10 amp = 120 watts
2 x 55 watt lights pull 110 watts
you should be fine
one wire is your 12vdc posative
the other will be ground
usefull for when mounting lights to a composite canopy ... which has no ground.
you will run two wires to the lights
my canopy has a very good ground and i only ran a posative wire to each light and grounded the lights to the canopy thru the light housing mounts to complete the 12 volt circuit.
use a test light or meter to find out which one is negative
if you mix them up you will blow the fuse
a multimeter set to dc voltage will read negative 12 vdc when the leads are reversed on your light leads.
a continuity meter can be used to check the ground source and will give you an idea if the wire harness ground is good.
a light bulb with two loose wire leads connected to the light, one grounded to the tractor and then the other lead to test each terminal for the hot or posative connector will also work.
tom
12 vdc x 10 amp = 120 watts
2 x 55 watt lights pull 110 watts
you should be fine
one wire is your 12vdc posative
the other will be ground
usefull for when mounting lights to a composite canopy ... which has no ground.
you will run two wires to the lights
my canopy has a very good ground and i only ran a posative wire to each light and grounded the lights to the canopy thru the light housing mounts to complete the 12 volt circuit.
use a test light or meter to find out which one is negative
if you mix them up you will blow the fuse
a multimeter set to dc voltage will read negative 12 vdc when the leads are reversed on your light leads.
a continuity meter can be used to check the ground source and will give you an idea if the wire harness ground is good.
a light bulb with two loose wire leads connected to the light, one grounded to the tractor and then the other lead to test each terminal for the hot or posative connector will also work.
tom
kneedeep
Veteran Member
Maybe if the light was there it would connect to the 4 prong, my old 3510 has all of those. The work light comes on with the headlights and has a on/off button on the light,
Took some time to trace wires today. First the rear plug has four wires in it. Of course black wire is ground. Blue/red wire is 12 volt from light switch. Green/black is left turn signal and Green/white is right turn signal. Then traced Yellow/red wire from 10 amp fuse marked horn/pto/work light up to an unused pin in the light switch wiring harness. I think I will use this wire as my 12 volt power for the added lights.
Finished part 1. Decided to add a 35 watt halogen work light with built in switch on the rear fender like you typically see. Drilled hole,installed grommet and ran 12 volt wire connection down to existing plug. Light is grounded through bolt of bracket. Pretty simple. Total wattage including new work light totals 108 watts on 10 amp fuse so I should be fine. Now I have to decide if I want to add 1 or 2 lights on the canopy facing forward. This will be a little more complicated as I will have to add a switch on the dash, tie into that auxillary unused 10 amp fused wire and run wires up the rops and around the canopy to the lights. And least now if I'm running out of daylight while I'm working the tractor I'll have light on my implements.
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