48"/4200# vs 42"/2200# Construction Attachements / EA forks for CUT

[orangetree]

Thanks for your collective patience; "what forks to choose" has certainly been beat into the ground in various ways, but after searching and reading I still don't quite understand In particular

• the affect of implement weight on 'practical' lift (as a lot of the weight difference is in the fork frame, not out where the pallet load is)
• if I need the beefier forks to try to shove the tips under stumps, etc.

Kioti CK2610+KL4030 delivered next month. ~~4500# with FEL/BH, no ballast, overall length 120", has SSQA. I only see FEL lift rated at 60" at the pivot pins (not the more practical + 500mm) - which is 1800# for the KL4030.

As far as standard uses, I'll use the forks for occasionally unloading pallets from the truck (shouldn't top 1000# @ 4' ... so not stressing even the lighter forks). And pallets are pretty "even loads") However, as i've now learned on TBN, i will find all sorts of uses for them ... in particular for me, lifting logs / root-rake type work, and prying things (stumps) out of the ground I believe.

Two pretty good options seem to be:

• ConstructionAttachments 48"/4200# (1PFWX48, $950, in-stock at dealer), weighs 372#
• CA (same as EverythingAttachments?) 42"/2200# (1PFCMP42, ~$950-$1000+ shipped, at least 4wks out) weighs 238#

Do i want the beefier tines? When it comes to picking things up from the ground, will 130# overall weight of the unit be a "significant" (10%? 20%?) reduction in lift capacity from zero to ~4 feet? With the above uses, any other readily available (~4wks) forks that would be better?

 

[orangetree]

the mfg page is not searchable (inexplicably, they put the model number in a picture not text, so here are the two above:

Worx Duty Pallet Forks

www.constructionattachmentsinc.com

Compact Pallet Forks (or equiv EA: Small Compact Tractor and Mini Skid Steer Pallet Forks)

 

[Tinhack]

Buy the forks for your primary use. Additional forks can be had for ancillary tasks at a reasonable price. You certainly don't want to be digging stumps with 48" forks. I have 36" forks I use for digging cactus and such. And they handle the typical logs and junk I haul/move without switching to a grapple. If/when I need longer forks, changing them out is pretty simple. ...And I'm 70 years old.

 

[orangetree]

You certainly don't want to be digging stumps with 48"

I assume you mean the shorter tines will have more leverage?

That makes perfect sense - but what about strength? Do people bend tines prying things out of the ground?

 

[sea2summit]

I assume you mean the shorter tines will have more leverage?

That makes perfect sense - but what about strength? Do people bend tines prying things out of the ground?

Some folks do, it's a very bad idea. Forks are more elastic in their construction compared to something like a stump bucket so when whatever you are prying out gives it's gonna get launched or the fork is going to spring pretty bad. Sooner or later something bad will happen. If you need to dig out stumps or other crap get something like a stump bucket which is very inelastic in construction and much more controllable and predictable.

Also, (before Jeff says it) FELs aren't tools for digging/prying/leveraging. It's made to lift things up and put them down. Using it other ways is gonna wear it out fast best case, damage you or the tractor worse case.

 

[Zebrafive]

If you plan to dig with forks, I would want double the loader capacity for when all the pressure is on one fork.

 

[LD1]

Your real world difference in lift capacity is actually gonna be pretty close to the difference in the weigh of each attachment.

Because even though you say most of the weight is in the fork frame, the fork frame is still ALONG WAYS ahead of where the loaders cylinders are applying the force. And even the fork frame is ahead of the "pivot pin" in which your loader is rated at.

The heavier forks are probably overkill. But there is nothing wrong with overkill if you can live with being able to lift ~140 pounds less of palletized material.

 

[Tinhack]

I assume you mean the shorter tines will have more leverage?

That makes perfect sense - but what about strength? Do people bend tines prying things out of the ground?

It's not for more leverage, it's for less stress on the loader and forks. You can easily tweak or bend a loader arm or the end of the forks with an unbalanced load.

Typical Class II forks are pretty strong. They are rated for 2-5.5k and should be stamped (permanently marked). BUT, they do bend, crack or break. They're usually forged steel. If you bend them, they're toast. If you try to straighten them, they'll most likely crack or break. And you can't always see the cracks in forged steel--They may crack internally. That can lead to catastrophic failure when you least expect it.

 

[orangetree]

Ok, thanks for the help - going to go with Everything Attachements 42" / 2200# (or equivalent; several other USA-made brands make a (seemingly) identical product)

 

[Midniteoyl]

Ok, thanks for the help - going to go with Everything Attachements 42" / 2200# (or equivalent; several other USA-made brands make a (seemingly) identical product)

You should be able to purchase 42" and 48" forks directly from the dealer and added to your tractor's payment. I bought the 42" 2200# with mine. Good enough for everything I'm gonna do with them.