4tnv98 questions about internals and head damage

[dodge man]

Some head bolts are only supposed to be used once. I don’t if yours are or aren’t.

 

[bmaverick]

Some head bolts are only supposed to be used once. I don’t if yours are or aren’t.

On YANMAR engines like he has, they are use only ONCE, then replace.

 

[franka02809]

Interesting I thought they were not torque to yield bolts so they could be reused. Was that bad information? I did find the carbide scrapers on Amazon like in your image, I will get them. I do have the manuals because I did not want to make things worse. I find some people use a long flat sanding block with sandpaper on it. Think that’s a bad plan? I will check it with a straight edge, light, and feelers for sure. I should grab a piece of glass to check the push rods. Not sure I like the idea of one not being the same as the others. It’s the right one in this image.

 

[mrmikey]

I find some people use a long flat sanding block with sandpaper on it. Think that’s a bad plan?

Theories good as long as you get all the abrasive bits out of the engine once you're done. Another good thing too is a sharpening stone either a new one or one that's been flattened.
It's funny, if you watch some of those rebuilding videos from Pakistan they use actual building bricks as a surfacing tool. Saying that, these are the same crew that rebuild a Cat engine in the dirt using rebuilt bearings and cheater bars as torque wrenches.

Not sure I like the idea of one not being the same as the others. It’s the right one in this image.

As long as it's straight and the same length you're good.

On YANMAR engines like he has, they are use only ONCE, then replace.

Didn't know that, I learned something new. I always thought the same as Frank that if they weren't torque to yield they were reusable, wonder what their theory is behind that.

 

[dodge man]

I think the fear is the head bolts stretch.

I’m sure you probably know this but don’t use sandpaper. They make stuff for metal, usually gray in color.

 

[franka02809]

Think the carbide scraper, carb cleaner and shop rags will be enough? I don't care what it looks like as long as its flat, clean, etc. I am not using anything that's not long and flat, I see some people with circular sanding disks and that seems like a very bad idea to me. I can plug all the holes for oil with shop rags (the blue ones) and use a long flat sander or a stone from there if you think it will be worth it. If you think its worth it can you recommend any sand paper for the flat sander or a stone? I am thinking about this because I can see some marks from a screwdriver pry it looks like. I just want to make sure I get a good flat seal and do not do this more than once.

 

[mrmikey]

Think the carbide scraper, carb cleaner and shop rags will be enough?

Should be unless the old gasket has be glued on and even then the carbide scraper should do it.

I can plug all the holes for oil with shop rags

You've also got the water jacket holes as well as the cylinder.

I see some people with circular sanding disks and that seems like a very bad idea to me

The white ones are supposed to be better but you've still got to be careful, although the cast block rather than aluminum is a bit safer. Pay particular attention to the area between the cylinders where the gaskets been blown out. If the engines been run awhile with combustion gasses blowing back and fourth, it may have a path etched....key word may. I'd go with a stone but that's just my preference, something like this, this is just the first pic I came across:

Did you get another head?

 

[franka02809]

I cannot image a round disk would make me happy once the straight edge came out. I have a guy on marketplace with a good head, waiting on a shipping quote for that. If it does not pan out soon I will buy a reconditioned one online, they sell for 6-700. If you went with a stone what grit would you recommend on the block? I can see that stone has 1000 and 6000 so I was curious. When using a stone what should I wet the surface with? Was thinking wd40 but what the hell do I know, lol . I already drained the coolant because it likely has oil in it or combustion gas. If I plan to flush it with water, drain, then fill with new coolant should I still plug the coolant jacket holes? Thanks for all the help!

 

[dodge man]

I’d try and find a local shop that can do the head for you. They can check it for cracks, get the head flat, check the valves and springs etc.

 

[franka02809]

Sorry no can do I'm a DIY guy even if it take me much longer and cost me much more. The engine will be staying in the machine and it will stay where it is till its done. I do not want to pull the motor because the rad and hydraulics do not look like a fun removal, lol. I know it is always better to let a pro at it but I want to be able to fix this one and any other one in the future. I currently have around 5 tractors and tlbs, several trucks etc all diesel.