7.3 turbo diesel worn out?

[tylertown]

With all due respect, I have to disagree with 'thepumpguysc' on several points, as it sounds like an earlier 7.3l is discribed, with a DB-2 mechanical fuel injection pump. The OP has a newer powerstroke, with hydraulic actuated electronically controlled injectors, and no injector pump. It does have a High Pressure Oil Pump, or HPOP, which feeds 1500 to 3000 psi oil to each head.

However, I do agree that the turbo wheel is due for replacement. A standard Whicked Wheel is about $100, which I installed on a friends '03 a few years ago, and will put in my '99 when I get back to that project.

TylerTown: Here's a link to a thread on the extensive repairs I did to my buddys truck, including the turbo wheel. Please check it out, it will be very informative to you as a new 7.3 psd owner.

HI diesel crawler
I don't see a link can you re send it to me? Is it possible to change the wheel without removing the turbo from the pedestal? It doesn't have slack but I can apply some force and make it touch the wall of the housing but no visible signs of wear on the compressor housing,

When I let go of the wheel it returns to center. I couldn't make it go in or out? I really want to get alot more life out of this engine I have never work on any type of turbo. But if it's going to require rebuild I'll do that but if I can just install a new wheel and get another 50-100 k on this turbo I would rather do that. It sounds good and I haven't heard any surging... any thoughts? Thanks

 

[tylertown]

The turbo wheel is junk. and if it moves side to side, so are the bearings. a "kit" isn't that expensive but a wheel isn't cheap.
You can buy a "center section" or "cartridge" and just swap the housing for less time and money to rebuild yours.
The hardest part of swapping housings is getting the bolts loose in the exhaust hsg. Your going to need a big oxy torch for that process. Get the surrounding area cherry red and then try to loosen them.
The h20 pump is probably leaking and needs a reman.
You can check the condition of the inj. pump by.. at idle push IN on the bottom of the rocking lever that runs down the side of the inj. pump.. IF the pump is in decent condition, the engine will almost stall.. or you should hear a very noticeable change in engine RPM's.
If you hear nothing.. you pumps automatic advance is worn out and the pump will start to give you trouble.. They run a steel piston inside an aluminum hsg and it requires an oversized piston to refresh it.
You have a good engine base to start with.. it just takes money to keep it up.. Have fun..

I haven't seen anything with a lever other than the filter/water separator where would I find this? I would like to be able to test my pump before I throw to much money into this truck...

 

[dieselcrawler]

Link added. Sorry.

You dont have the injection pump, so no lever.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I retract.. I didn't pay attention to the year.. SORRY for any confusion.. but if you HAD a mechanical inj. pump.. lol

 

[dieselcrawler]

I retract.. I didn't pay attention to the year.. SORRY for any confusion.. but if you HAD a mechanical inj. pump.. lol

Common mistake. No worries, we watch out for each other around here.

 

[STx]

When you installed the wheel did you remove the turbo from the pedestal or just back the nut off on the intake side? Mine has some free play but none in or out..

I was researching some online and a little play is tolerated but mine has no signs that it has ever rubbed the housing at any point just looks eat up on the leading edge of the most outer blade if I can make it touch the wall of the housing and let go and it goes back to center is it time for rebuild or is it OK for now with a new wheel?

Iv done some pretty in depth mechanics over the years but I have never busted open a turbo.

In my case, my turbo shaft was broken so I had to replace the cartridge, it couldn't be rebuilt. I would definitely suggest removing the turbo from the truck, it's a lot easier to work on that way. Do not use an impact to remove the wheel from it while still on the truck, you can cause shaft fractures that later result in a turbo failure like mine.

It's a good time to go ahead and replace the turbo o-rings proactively anyway.

 

[thepumpguysc]

By no stretch of the imagination should the wheel EVER touch the side of the housing.. the bearings are shot.

 

[2458n]

Ambulance recently sold at auction in Greenville Ohio with 554,000 miles on the original 7.3 powerstroke. Up keep pays , as well as washing the salt off.

 

[tylertown]

In my case, my turbo shaft was broken so I had to replace the cartridge, it couldn't be rebuilt. I would definitely suggest removing the turbo from the truck, it's a lot easier to work on that way. Do not use an impact to remove the wheel from it while still on the truck, you can cause shaft fractures that later result in a turbo failure like mine.

It's a good time to go ahead and replace the turbo o-rings proactively anyway.

Should I just buy a new turbo. Complete assy? I see them on ebay for under $400 or am I setting myself up for failure? Thanks

 

[tylertown]

Ok I will take your word for it, I do not want to risk damaging the engine or any component and repair or replace it. Is there really an in depth repair needed or is it just o-rings and a bearing or 2?