7.3 turbo diesel worn out?

[dieselcrawler]

Rebuild kit is less than $100, Whicked wheel, another $100, do it yourself in a day... Not a bad job.

Might concider replacing the up-pipes while you're at it, if you are seeing any soot around the pipes on the firewall.

 

[Snobdds]

Should I just buy a new turbo. Complete assy? I see them on ebay for under $400 or am I setting myself up for failure? Thanks

Go to throughbread diesel.com and get a new Garrett and be done with it. Get your intake piping fixed with a good filter, or you will just dust your new turbo.

 

[dieselcrawler]

The 6637 filter IS a good filter, the first mod I do to my 7.3's. MUCH better filter than stock filter, which is a flat panel filter in the stock air box. The bail clips on the air box lid break, then the lid is loose, allowing unfiltered air into the compressor wheel, the results are nicked fins as you showed. The split in your intake tube would also add to that, good you taped it up, but better to replace.

Contact DieselOrings , talk to Bob, great guy, very helpful and very knowledgeable. Will have many of the parts that have been discussed in this thread. Exception is the up-pipe kit, I've used the Dorman version from a local parts store with good success, much cheaper than the factory IHC bellowed pipe kit.

 

[STx]

Should I just buy a new turbo. Complete assy? I see them on ebay for under $400 or am I setting myself up for failure? Thanks

I wouldn't trust a $400 complete turbo, just the cartridge costs more than that. I replaced this - Garrett 99-3 GTP-38 Turbo Center Cartridge Ford 7.3L and added this - http://www.dieselsite.com/ww2_gtp38.aspx. The cartridge comes with a new wheel and the original WW is a good wheel, I had one prior to the WW2. The WW2 is light years better and well worth the extra $100.

If your shaft is still solid, this kit - Garrett GTP38 Journal Bearing Rebuild Kit - Riffraff Diesel Performance - and a new wheel should take care of you.

Clay at RiffRaff answers the phone and is very knowledgeable about these motors. If you call him, he'll steer you in the right direction and not try to sell you stuff you don't need.

A good point was made about the up-pipes. If nothing else, replace the donuts (Fel-Pro 8194 Up-pipe Gasket Set) although this is a much better option - International Bellowed Stainless Up-pipe Kit 99.5-3.

It can get expensive messing about with these motors and a lot of stuff makes sense to do while you have the turbo out but, they're mostly expensive parts. I also removed my air intake heater and exhaust back pressure valve when I did mine. The AIH is a simple one, just remove and screw in a plug. The EBP required a new pedestal and a high flow turbo outlet.

A good place to go for info on these trucks and keeping them running is- http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum31/. I learned a lot about my truck here and they're easy on newbie questions.

BTW - I have 292,000 on mine now. It's about time to do injectors because they're getting worn but, I've never been into the engine. Just wear parts, running gear and normal maintenance other than the turbo and the transmission. Transmission lasted 242,000 and I hardened it during the rebuild. This is a very reliable truck and motor, if it's taken care of. The transmission is really the weakest link.

 

[tylertown]

Thanks, that's great information I will keep posted of the results on this thread. About to start on it as soon as I can round parts up!

Do any of you run that hot shot secret in your fuel? I put some in my tank I'm running now I think 16oz like the recommend and yesterday within 15 miles of each one I had two slight hiccups.. I have been running 2 stroke oil the tcw3 before that and not a single issue.

It hasn't done it again in the last 100 miles but it felt fuel related just like a 1/4 second stall like I laid on the brakes and then picked right back up.

No engine lights or anything. My father said it could have been cleaning deposited residues out of the injectors I'm not sure but it seemed like it was a possible air bubble or drop of water

 

[tylertown]

I think I found out where my miss came from fuel bowl was pretty bad, about a quarter inch of sediment in the bottom also rendered my line for my water separator useless.
I was beginning to wonder why the drain didn't work..

I'm guessing the diesel extreme was breaking some of it loose, the O-ring on the bottom of the inlet tube that the filter rides on wasn't in very good shape I replaced it.

The fuel bowl heater was unplugged in the bowl and the plug in on the outside of the bowl was off too.. I plugged them both back up. Haven't noticed it being hard to crank..

Does this fuel bowl heater just assist the glow plugs? Is it really an important thing incase it wasn't working. There was also three metal pieces little smaller than a dime mixed in with the sediment. Would that indicate that the fuel bowl heater is burnt out? Thanks

 

[dieselcrawler]

Fuel bowl heater only needed in areas cold enough to have gel issues. I left my buddys unhooked, and removed the AIH.

Have you had a chance to read the motor swap section of tue thread I linked for you? If not, it could be helpful... Lots of pictures. Lots of details of fuel bowl, HPOP, turbo, up pipes, etc.

Keep at it... Youll come out with a solid truck in the end.

 

[franklinute]

I agree the fuel bowl heater and air heater element are not needed in warmer climates. It looks like the
truck you have might be neglected in the maintenance area. Keep an eye on the fuel quality. If you have
trash in the tank then schedule tank drop and clean. Keep an eye on the antifreeze and watch for engine
oil in the coolant. I replaced the seals in my oil cooler a couple of months ago. It is a nasty job and I spent
lot of time trying to flush oil out of the coolant system.

 

[STx]

I agree the fuel bowl heater and air heater element are not needed in warmer climates. It looks like the
truck you have might be neglected in the maintenance area. Keep an eye on the fuel quality. If you have
trash in the tank then schedule tank drop and clean. Keep an eye on the antifreeze and watch for engine
oil in the coolant. I replaced the seals in my oil cooler a couple of months ago. It is a nasty job and I spent
lot of time trying to flush oil out of the coolant system.

You'll want to do the hutch and harpoon mods anyway (if they haven't been done already) and I can guarantee you that the pickup umbrella has broken apart by now. Two ways to get at the fuel tank, one is to remove the bed and the other is to drop the tank. If you have equipment to lift it, pulling the bed off is easier.

 

[Btown]

If you really want to clean the fuel lines out good run some biodiesel in it. Just make sure you have another fuel filter ready. Biodiesel cleans up all kinds of crud.