8" No-Name Chinese Chipper Grief and Slip Clutch

[Tinhack]

I'd remove the pulley and dress the shaft and the inside of the taper where it rides on the shaft. Don't go overboard on the dressing. The taper part of the pulley should slide on the shaft with just a little drag. Insert a new key and install the pulley. Most taper pulleys should clamp down on the key. With the taper tight, the pulley, key and shaft should become one. Use Loctite on the taper bolts and tighten the taper, a little at a time, in a crisscross or star pattern. If cast iron, go about 20-25 ft./lbs. of torque.

The most likely cause of the initial problem was probably a loose taper. That should be a maintenance check item.

 

[arto98607]

The first parts drawing looked to be a Jinma (I had one) and sold it after 3 years for more than I paid for it. Now, I pile it up and roast all of it. Much easier. Little accelerant and a match is all that is required.

Sure burning works but we need the wood-chips as a blueberry bush mulch!

It helps a lot with maintaining proper moisture and weed control.

 

[LD48750]

The first parts drawing looked to be a Jinma (I had one) and sold it after 3 years for more than I paid for it. Now, I pile it up and roast all of it. Much easier. Little accelerant and a match is all that is required.

I agree, it looks like my Jinma 8".
Might want to call & talk to these people Jinma Wood Chipper Parts | Jinma Woodchippers | Circle G Tractor Parts.

 

[Erik M]

I think all these units started with one general set of plans that have been modified depending on the manufacturer's capabilities.

I ended up ditching the mechanical feeder and installing a reversible hydraulic in-feed motor with speed control. Chips bouncing out of the chute would de-rail the mechanical feeder belt. The original PTO shaft to the feeder drum looked like it was butchered from a cheap socket set 1/2" swivels. POS all around, I will never buy any equipment made in china ever again. Getting harder to do these days....

I think you get what you pay for, I am very pleased with my Woodland Mills WC88 chipper that is engineered in Canada and fabricated in China. It is was affordable and does all I ask of it and was a good choice as I wasn’t going to pay twice as much for a North American made unit.

 

[ericm979]

Is part #12 in the OP's diagram a tapered & split hub and pulley, and there's 2 or 3 of bolts/washers 10 and 11? That's a pretty common way to lock a pulley to a straight shaft especially on flail mowers and similar.
See: Bushed Pulleys: What you need to know before installation - UtterPower.com

I agree with the folks like Tinhack that you should clean up the keyway and shaft and install it properly. (also reminds me to check those bolts for tightness next time I work on my Woodmaxx chipper)

If the hub is on a tapered shaft (which I don't think is the case here according to the diagram) you can use valve lapping compound to lap the hub and the shaft so they have a close tight fit. I used to do that on certain motorcycle engines converted to road race use, where the ignition rotor was known to part ways with the crankshaft at the high rpms the engines got tuned for.

In this case the bore of the hub may be chewed up. You may be able to clean the bore some with files or something, and maybe use the same lapping trick by tightening the bolts until the pulley+hub turn with some drag. If the hub is too beat up inside, v-belt pulleys and tapered locking hubs of different types are common and easy to find from places like McMaster-Carr.

 

[mikester]

Is part #12 in the OP's diagram a tapered & split hub and pulley, and there's 2 or 3 of bolts/washers 10 and 11? That's a pretty common way to lock a pulley to a straight shaft especially on flail mowers and similar.
See: Bushed Pulleys: What you need to know before installation - UtterPower.com

I agree with the folks like Tinhack that you should clean up the keyway and shaft and install it properly. (also reminds me to check those bolts for tightness next time I work on my Woodmaxx chipper)

If the hub is on a tapered shaft (which I don't think is the case here according to the diagram) you can use valve lapping compound to lap the hub and the shaft so they have a close tight fit. I used to do that on certain motorcycle engines converted to road race use, where the ignition rotor was known to part ways with the crankshaft at the high rpms the engines got tuned for.

In this case the bore of the hub may be chewed up. You may be able to clean the bore some with files or something, and maybe use the same lapping trick by tightening the bolts until the pulley+hub turn with some drag. If the hub is too beat up inside, v-belt pulleys and tapered locking hubs of different types are common and easy to find from places like McMaster-Carr.

So are you saying the installation of hubs on a shaft without a key is normal?

The hub [12] is on a straight shaft [5]. The shaft is chewed up worse than the hub. I can find replacement hubs anywhere, the shaft is the problem as it's custom made.

 

[arto98607]

So are you saying the installation of hubs on a shaft without a key is normal?

The hub [12] is on a straight shaft [5]. The shaft is chewed up worse than the hub. I can find replacement hubs anywhere, the shaft is the problem as it's custom made.

Please check out the vendor mentioned in post #13 above!

Their replacement Jinma chipper main shaft may fit your chipper?

 

[ericm979]

So are you saying the installation of hubs on a shaft without a key is normal?

If it's a tapered hub and pulley like I linked to it does not need a key. The hub locks on the shaft hard enough to transmit the torque. Unless it comes loose that is.

You can also check with Woodmaxx to see if their shaft is the same.